Ranger :: 2.3 Liter Engine Warmed Up - Idle Air Control Valve?


Feb 6, 2002

After its 2.3 liter engine is warmed up, our '87 Ranger has intermittent problems of idle dropping to nearly dying altogether and then overcompensating to recover. Normally, after throttling up to 1500rpm or so, it will idle steady for 15 or 20 seconds then start the process again.

After normal tuneup part replacements (i.e. plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filters=there are 2), I spent over $100 on replacing O2, throttle position and EGR sensors but symptoms still occur. Was advised to consider replacing the Mass Air Flow sensor but that part doesn't exist for the '87 model. Was told the equivalent part is "Idle Air Control Valve" at approximately $80.

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The check engine light came on yesterday. 2004 with 115K. Auto Zone read the codes and they are as follows:

Definition:
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Probable Cause:
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Is it actually stripped or it's some kind of other bolt? I tried a allen but it seems to slip to. If the bolt is stripped.

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Bought my Ranger brand new, and I try to maintain it well. Most of the 90,000 miles are highway. Anyway, the OEM coolant was supposed to be good for 100K miles, but since I hadn't done anything in 89K, i have a lengthy commute and the coolant was getting discolored, I figured that no harm would come in having a drain/refill. This was approx. The heat worked flawlessly. Fast forward two weeks, and my local shop performed an oil change (not the quick lube that did the coolant replacement). I was informed of three things:

1) my coolant was low,
2) my heater control valve was leaking (which I was shown), and
3) when hoisted I was shown that a slight residue of coolant -- not necessarily fresh -- was on my water pump.

I was told that 'down the road sometime a water pump could be in my future'. Again, the heat worked flawlessly, and I didn't want to be out-and-about in winter and run out of coolant. So, the shop replaced my heater control valve and topped off the coolant (approx. 1/2 - 1 gallon). Heat worked flawlessly. The last couple days, I noticed two things.

First, heat trickles out on low and medium setting, and second, it takes a long time to warm the vehicle. So, my limited research tells me two things. If coolant is present, and I have heat (of some sort), then, the water pump and heater core are probably fine. Diagnosis says to check the thermostat first, correct?

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I did some research and i keep coming up with IAC valve (Idle Air Control Valve). Not sure if this is the problem. There could be numerous problems. I am replacing IAC valve this week.

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Could replace it for $50.00, some You Tube videos show people cleaning theirs on other brands of cars, can the Ford IAC valve be cleaned up with a little carb cleaner and cotton swabs?

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My wife has a stock 03 Passat 1.8t.

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2. There is a vacuum control valve that sits on top of the air cleaner box and it ticks a lot. it has a electric plug going to it.

3. The car has a rough idle while in drive and sometimes shifts hard. I changed plugs, trans flush and filter change.

I would take the car to a VW dealer but the closest one is about a hour away and my wife needs the car.

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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Poor Idle - Codes P0171 And P0301 - PCV Valve Elbow?

2001 Ranger 4-cylinder 2.5L engine, 180K miles. I have been getting PO301 for months now, on and off so it's probably not related to this one.

It started idling awfully a week ago but does not die. Some vacuum problem. I heard the PCV valve elbow is the likely problem but where it is located? A pic or a diagram would be really useful, I did a search but keep getting 4L engine and other makes/years.

It's currently throwing P0171 code. A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty

Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.

There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
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The MAF sensor was just cleaned and didn't look too dirty. When I unplug the MAF it still idles rough. The fuel pump relay can be heard working properly when the door opens. Another problem that sometimes occurs on cold start is if I don't wait long enough for the pump to activate or sometime right after it starts, the car will start partly then stall out. When driving and the car is bucking the exhaust gives rich fuel smell. Also when 2 stepping in the car (which I don't do very often), the CEL starts to blink and the car misfires and drives rough. I figure since I don't have many parts on it yet I probably shouldn't do it anyway so I don't blow up the engine.

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