1996 Ranger 2.3 140 CID XLT 126,000 Miles. When coming to a stoplight or stopping the engine idle is low and causing engine to almost die. Engine has been stuck at high idle a couple of times. It started with the engine idle slowly coming down and now it its too low. I suspect the Idle air control valve.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 LeSabre with 180000 miles. I can drive the car for 4-5 miles before it stalls and then dies. the car will start to idle fast, then bottom out a couple of times before it dies. It also makes a horrible noise under the hood and sounds like the rods are all clanging together. Once it dies, it will not restart until it has sat there for 30-40 minutes. After sitting for some time, it will crank right up and then repeat the process again. My oil pressure is off the chart high and it stays there all the time. Does this have something to do with the problem of is that another problem all together? What is causing my car to die like this and how do i fix it?
View 5 Replies1993 Geo Prizm, manual transmission: Intermittent failure to start over a two year period, gradually becoming more frequent. The engine turns over every time the key is turned to start the engine, i.e. the starter motor/battery/battery connections work flawlessly. Once started the engine runs flawlessly without misses or shut downs. The only possible problem may be the engine idle speed that seems at times to be too high even after the engine is warmed up. Without predictability, the engine may fail to start when the key is turned.
Remember the engine still turns over normally. It just does not fire up. Two options exist for my predicament. That which is resorted to the most because of the speed of recovery: step out of the vehicle and push start the car by popping the clutch. The other alternative which I have been forced to utilize before because of the physical impossibility of push starting (i.e. if I had been able to push, I would have popped the clutch to start) at the time has been to wait for a protracted period and re-attempt to key start the car. This has been successful a couple of times.
My truck has been doing this since I got it and I can't figure it out. It's a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5 5Spd. It runs fine if you don't rev it above 2500-3000 rpm. After you rev it that high coming down to idle it is stumbling real bad and sometimes stalls. I've been driving it like this since I got it, and it does fine other than this. It gets better the longer you drive it, but it still will do it if you rev it high enough.
Here are all the parts I personally have changed (previous owner said he did the plugs and wires and air filter, which it looks like he did but I'm about ready to change them myself):
-Fuel filter
-coil packs
-timing belt
-egr valve
-cleaned throttle body
-iacv
-tps
-thermostat
I've always find solution to solve my little issues with my Toyota Echo 2004 Hatchback. Since last summer, my car seems to have a lot of problems to idle well with the fine rpm. Here are all the events :
-it all started last summer, when the motor would start to idle really high for a couple of minutes, before getting back to normal. When this happened, a p011 check engine would light up. I switched to synthetic oil, and it greatly reduce the number of time this happen, but it didn't solve it entirely. It usually happens when the motor is warm, but still not hot.
-Only once, during a long ride, I got a check engine. When I left the highway, my motor wouldn't stop idling high. stop/start the motor wouldn't change anything. I checked the check engine codes, if I remember well : p011, p016 and misfire. With a friend, we checked the crankshaft sensor, and it was really dirty, so we washed it, and it solved the problem! A few days after, I also change my spark plug because they were starting to be old.
-A few weeks ago, I started my car and it was idling high as usual to heat up faster (it is winter now). But then, the rpm suddenly drop really quickly. The rpm was really low for may be 2 seconds, and it nearly chokes, but just before it went up back to normal. Then low/high/low/high until the motor was hot. No check engine. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes, and when I reconnected it, the problem was solve. I also checked the air filter, but it wasn't dirty.
-Then, sometimes when I start my car, idling is fine but suddenly at a red light the motor start to run really low with a lot of vibrations and a bad smell. Stop and restart the motor solve the problem! But only until the next red light, or until the motor is warm enough. Still no check engine.
I bought my 3.6 in november with 2k miles on and now have 15k, in the last month or 2 I've noticed that at odd times it idles high. It normally idles at 500-600 id say and will randomly peak to 1000-1100. It wouldn't really bother me except it sounds like hell and I have to practically stand on the brakes for it not to jump forward. I've had 13k miles and 6 months of problem free driving
View 5 RepliesCamry 06 4cyl with 100k automatic. I have replaced spark plugs, cleaned the MAF with Maf cleaner, Changed air filter, changed cabin air filter, transmission flush, engine oil to synthetic 5w30, used seafoam in the fuel tank and the intake per sticky.
We have owned the car for 3 weeks now. We live in Orlando, FL so the lowest temp we get in the mornings is 57 some days during winter times. The car never idled high at 2000 rpms since we owned it. I never had a car that idles that high on cold start up but my other vehicles idle at 1200 rpms on cold start up.
It idles at 2k for like 3 mins and then drops back to 800 rpm which is seems like normal operation of cold start up. I have read mixed reviews about been normal or not. Most of this reviews are in really cold temps not like the ones here in FL.
So does this appear to be normal? My wife called me today telling me the car did this. She said it was that cold this morning. I haven't got a chance to read the manual and see if there is a note there since she is at work.
I just need to know if it is normal even in hotter temps like FL. The car drives fine and no check engine light. Stock engine as far as we know.
1996 Cheyenne 3/4 Ton 4x4 Long box
I put a cap on the box and the inspection guy told me I had to have a Center High Mount Stop Light on the back of the cap itself (because the back of the truck cab has one). I mounted the fixture and routed the wires down the box post under the truck box (I included a plug connector before it goes down the box post, so I can unplug the cap easy when I want to remove it).
Now I began to think... I can't just tap into the brake light wire at the rear bumper because the CHMSL will come on too when a signal light comes on. Do I have to run a CHMSL feed from the fuse box or somewhere up front, all the way down to the rear bumper? Where to locate this feed, or do I have to reference a schematic in the manual? Guess what? I don't have the manual.
While I was at it I installed a cargo light fixture inside the cap. I guess I could run that feed down from the front too while I am running the CHMSL wire.
2000, 2.5L standard transmission. IAC replaced about 2 years ago, DPFE sensor and vacuum hoses replaced early last summer. Truck has been running just fine until I washed it last night. Went to work, and when coming to a stop and pressing in the clutch, engine starts to race without coming back to idle. Had to turn the truck off in order to get the engine from racing. Same thing on the way home. What else can/should I be looking at? I did not open the hood to wash the engine off, so it can't be water from the wash.
View 7 RepliesI bought a 96 Bronco 5 speed manual last year in pretty good shape.Everything works well, but the idle speed at coasting is hovering around 1500rpm until the vehicle slow down to 30mph at which point the rpm drop to about 700 (where it should be).It only happens while coasting.When truck is parked, the idle is fine and steady; I revved it up to 3000rpm for a while to see if I could replicate the behavior, but no, as soon as I release the accelerator, the rpm's drop nicely to 700.While driving though, if I switch to neutral, the rpm will go up for a second, and than sloooowly drop to around 1500 and stay there until I slow down to 30mph. Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, wires, TPS, ICM, and MAF are new. Could it be ECM?
View 6 RepliesThere's a small but clearly audible chirping/squeak coming from my truck whenever I pull out. It goes away after the truck gets hot, but for the first 10 minutes or so, it squeaks only when moving. Not at idle. It is worse at low RPM's in 1st gear. And it's particularly bad in the mornings. I was thinking it is something in the idler pulley or the belt tensioner.
View 7 RepliesI have a problem with my Camry 170k on the clock. Took it out a few nights back and the high idle was stuck on, after about an hour the idle gradually dropped to normal.
The next night it would not start and run unless I keep the accelerator pedal pressed slightly, after warming up it seems to run fine, The high idle has not returned
I have seen a few suggestion on cleaning the iac valve with Carbie cleaner, so I tried that and it made no difference.
I have a 99 Ranger w/3.0. It idles about 1500 rpm cold,and 1200 warm. Here are the things that I have tried.
1.Checked ALL vacumn hoses/lines
2.Changed Air idle control sensor
3.Throttle position sensor
4.removed and completely cleaned throttle plate in throttle body.
5. removed top of intake manifold and checked for cracks and/or leaky gasket.
Nothing seems to change. Could it be a faulty ecm?
Was driving my truck normal, got to a stop and the truck staring to idle high and like stuck on third gear and also the tow light (over drive) started to flashing Is like the truck put it self on safe mod. Drove it back home but couldn't do more than 55 miles n hour so I didn't hurt the trans.
View 1 RepliesReplaced the idle air solenoid and the car still vibrates in drive when at the light, etc.. Engine mounts were replaced though I am sure that isn't relevant. Anything I can look for?
View 18 RepliesThe revs surge from low idle to high (about 1000 rpm) every few seconds, but only when the truck is in gear,and the AC is on. What it could be. Also is it something I could fix myself? I have been driving with out the AC for a while but going into summer I need it on.
View 2 RepliesMy 92 ranger, 2wd, 6 cyl, manual trans, is running at about 3500 rpm at idle. I was wondering what might be the cause, maybe something with the throttle or could the gauge be screwed up.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1996 subaru impreza outback. It is now dead. Billowing white smoke, coolant coming out of the tailpipe, terrible rocky idle and some smoke coming from the exhaust at the manifold. (assuming it cracked from the harsh idle) I'm pretty good with cars but I've never taken on a head gasket problem myself. I have time to fix it, I just don't really know if it will be worth it. Should i just replace the motor w/ a scrapyard motor? Should I take this opportunity to rebuild and upgrade? I have a crappy chevy to get me around in the meantime. Should I give it a try or just scrap it. I paid 800 bucks for this car and it has 220k miles. No major problems until now. New alt a few months back. Previous two(only two) didn't have any problems at all. I feel like it would be worth it.
View 17 RepliesI just changed my fuel filter and now I am having issues with the idle/accelator. When I get the car going to a speed of 40mph for example, I let off the gas and the speed barely drops. Then when I went down a side street about 20 mph, I let off the gas and the car just kept going. The idle was initally high, but then dropped down to it's normal 800rpm.
The only thing I touched under the hood was releasing the pressure from the fuel pressure regulator before the fuel filter change. I just removed the idle control unit and cleaned it but that didn't work.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT/3.8L
Last week I had the plugs, coils, valve cover gasket and fuel filter done my 2004 Ford Escape when the engine started misfiring and today it started to idle rough at a stoplight and it seemed like it was going to stall but didn't. I had it sit for about an hour and a half and the it did want to turn over like the battery did have enough cold crank to it but it did after a couple of times. It has come and gone for the last couple of hours. No warning lights are one either. It seems pretty close to what it was doing when it was misfiring. What it may be?
View 10 RepliesI tried searching and only found rough idle at startup, so here is my issue. At the same point in my AM drive, quite often I'll come to a stoplight and the motor will idle fairly roughly. If I switch to the "car" on the dash, it indicates the motor should be off. It is not charging the battery. Today it did it when I was only one bar from full battery. Also did it at the next light I came to.
This happens at the end of the commute. I've already covered 40+ mostly highway miles.