Ranger :: 1994 - Pedal Won't Stay Down At Emergency Brake?
Apr 27, 2014
1994 Ranger XLT 4.0 5spd 4WD 168,000 miles
the emergency brake will hold vehicle but pedal won't stay down. figured it would do the normal "ratchet" feel and sound.
also, i did a really dumb thing with 4wd. i will try to make a long story short. a few months ago when we had that snow storm and then another shortly after, i decided to lock my hubs but DID NOT engage the 4wd. my top speed was 55 in the weather going to work. i came home one night for a brief moment, shut truck off and went inside. i came right back out to go to my mom's house (not a focal point in story but she lives only three blocks away)
when i started my truck i noticed the 4wd light was on (4H, not "low range") could NOT get light to go out and 4wd does not work, engage or "disengage". (i know it's not engaged by the little bit of a test wheel slip on snow packed street)
not sure what to do. was told to check vacuum hoses but it's an electronic shift. what should my next plan of action be?
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Let my brother borrow my 98 S-10 and before he even got home with it he called and said the brake light was on. I figured it was the emergency pedal was down a little. Said there were no leaks. Got it back today and the fluid level is way down. Filled, but the low pedal is still there. Can find no leaks. Also the ck engine light is on. May not be related. Didn't get a chance to ck code.
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I went to adjust my Santa Fe's parking brake (pedal version) and am trying to troubleshoot. The pedal goes all the way to the floor, something like 11+ clicks....
I jacked up the rear end, pulled the tires off, rotated the drum so that I could access the adjusting nut and used a flat head screwdriver to rotate it all the way back to where it wouldn't rotate anymore. After that I clicked it ~5-7 clicks. Same process on each side.
Went to go test the pedal, still goes to the floor, same number of clicks, etc.
Tried to locate an adjusting nut for the pedal but cannot find one, if one exists. The fuse box sits perfectly in the way but I was able to view everything with a little bit of effort and still couldn't locate the mythical adjusting nut.
I know I did the adjustment on the rear brakes correctly so it's an issue with the pedal/cable/nut.
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My emergency brake works fine when I am parked nose down; it prevents my truck from rolling forward. When I'm parked nose up, the e brake doesn't stop the truck from rolling backwards. 2.3L 1993 ford ranger manual trans.
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If I hop in my truck right now (1994 3.0 ford ranger 5 speed) as soon as i accelerate half pedal or more it'll bog down really bad. Usually in second gear it does it the most and ill shift to third gear and it still jerks and has trouble accelerating. If I let the car sit for 10 minutes and then go drive it it'll jerk and bog down a little bit but no where near as much. usually only does it for the first couple minutes of driving then goes back to normal. I also noticed that my temperature gauge is always right before NORMAL. Also I'll have to give it a little more gas right before i go to drive or it'll want to stall but as soon as i get into driving it, it acts perfectly fine.
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I have 2010 Tig, for the last 2 days, the TPMS on the MFD will stay displayed until I press down on the brake pedal, then it goes out, is this the sign on some problem?
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When I parked my truck at work this morning, I pushed the parking brake pedal down like always, but it popped back up. I didn't pop all the way back up, it stayed down about 1/4 of the way. Several tries yielded the same results.
Since I'm at work, I didn't have any time to crawl under there are investigate. I'll do so tonight when I get home, or maybe tomorrow. Kinda sounds like the locking "teeth" mechanism may be misaligned?? Since it doesn't come all the way back up, I'm hoping the mechanism isn't totally broken.
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A couple weeks ago the front brakes were done on the Mazda. Then the wheel bearings needed to be done. I think the shop outsourced what I guess was the packing of the bearings. I paid for the work, and drove away, nearly, but didn't because I had no brakes and there I was pulling out into 5:00 PM traffic. The emergency brake saved me. I walked back into the shop and they discovered the power brake booster had broken. I wonder, because if you drove the Mazda to park it in the shop lot where the customers pick up the vehicles after repairs are made, wouldn't you notice that there is no braking action. The brake pedal was high and hard and there was literally no response when I depressed it.
The shop keeper said, darn I guess I'll have to replace this, meaning pay for it, since it (may have) happened when the bearings were being worked on. My question is, is there any reason why working on bearings might end up breaking the brake booster? Chances are, it was just coincidence, right? or? I don't know. Because the car is old, he had to take several days to find the part. Anyway, he sent me off and told me to drive it carefully. The drive home was absolutely nervewracking and required continual tugging up on the emergency brake stick. I wonder if they despise my car so much now that they are sending me off to drive in it in such an unsafe condition. Anyway, hoping it will be fixed tomorrow. But my question still is ... would working on bearings possibly be cause for breaking the brake booster?
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Having a problem with the brake lights. When the brake pedal is pressed, the running lights (including dash lights, parking lights, and the low power filament in tail light) turn on, but no brake lights. When the lights are turned on and brake pedal is pressed, the brake lights do not turn on at all. The 4 way flashers and signal lights work correctly with lights on and off. Things I have tried:
Replaced the tail light bulbs.
Checked fuses (#5, #10).
Disassembled the brake switch and bypassed it with a jumper wire.
Checked the grounds (tail lights, rear ground, drivers inner fender).
Tried to trace the wiring. Didn't see any noticeable damage, but the wiring is in a loom so it is hard to see.
Used contact cleaner on brake switch, rear wiring harness, body harness.
Still hoping it may be something simple that I've overlooked.
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Under mild-heavy braking, the rear brakes on my ranger lock up... EVERYTIME. Not just when its wet, or humid. Everytime I hit the brakes hard they lock. I think I'm getting little, to no pressure to the front brakes either. Could it be just a Proportioning valve?
Truck is a 94' 4.0l V6, RCLB, Auto, 4X4.
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1993 Ranger XLT 4.0 AT. Initially replaced ECM for other problems and then noticed Cruise w/n disengage when brake depressed unless pedal is pushed several times and with more pressure. Put in another ECM and have same problem. Have replaced the brake switch and lights come on as they should. When pedal is pushed the vacuum dump valve on the pedal will dump the vacuum to the servo but when you release the brake pedal the cruise control kicks back in and speeds truck back to set speed.
So this tells me that the dump valve is only a fail-safe feature for when pedal is depressed and does not actually deactivate the servo. Everything else with the cruise works fine: On/Off switch, Set/Accelerate, Resume, Coast. How to proceed next? Like where to find speed control module and how to test it? How to check servo to see if it is getting or dropping voltage that will electrically disengage it, etc? Don't want just throw parts at it. The new ECU's that I used came from ECU Exchange in Florida and there still remains the possibility that they are still the problem.
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I have a 2008 Ranger Sport 4x4. I noticed yesterday that when I stepped on the brake pedal it felt like nothing was there until I step a little harder then it was like full brake application. The truck only has 63000 on it. Then every once in awhile it would be normal ie very light brake application and slows like it should. Then back to same issue... Any thoughts about this??
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I have a 2010 Ford ranger sport 4x4, manual, and when backing up at a decent speed, then press the brake to slow up then depress the clutch, the brake pedal pulsates and it feels like something is grinding. It has happened in first once, but I can make it happen in reverse anytime...
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acts like abs sensors could be bad. but the brake pedal goes almost to the floor, after it does it's pulsating. But the abs light does not come on. I already changed brake booster, no change!
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So, a few day i bought an 84 Ranger and even since have not been able to figure out what the hell is wrong with the brakes. I know it's not the brake booster for starters. Because, i went to Auto Zone and picked up a new one and when i took the old one off (before i had put the new one on as well) i tried to see if the brake pedal would now move freely and it won't. It is still very stiff and squeaks when you push it down. i then to get it to return have to pull it up with my foot... What it might be? the WD-40 failed here as well.
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I have a 2000 Ford Ranger, 5spd with 3.0 v6. The speedometer will jump around or quit about half the time whenever you push the brake pedal or use the turn signals. I've cleaned all the grounds I can find including taking the battery cables off the clamps and cleaning them, and I had to clean all the fuses (inside box and outside box) because most of them were corroded. It still does it. Occasionally, I'll hear a buzzing/crackling noise like electricity arcing when I use the brakes or the turn signals which sounds like it's coming from the left side of the dashboard.
I took off panels and the fuse box, but I don't see any sign of arcing. Also, the noise only occurs when the truck is actually moving, never when it's sitting still. Also, the engine has a slight flutter at an idle. I hooked up a computer, and the O2 sensors were erratically jumping between rich and lean, so I replaced all of them. It says Insufficient EGR flow detected, so I did put a new EGR valve on and cleared the codes, but it still reads the same. And lastly, the computer refuses to finish either of its diagnostic tests. I've tried the Koeo and the koer tests, and neither will complete.
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What is the likely culprit? No other electrical issues, brake light quit working when brake is depressed, all other lights work including blinkers/running/head. Was going to break out a wiring diagram....
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I have a 1990 4x4 ford Ranger, the little truck was purchased in early 2008 as a work truck but has ended up becoming my main vehicle, it has been a good truck for the most part but know I am having some brake issues, well have been having for some time but they seem to come and go. Usually it happens when I have to hit the brakes hard, the rear brakes lock up, I replaced the master cylinder months ago and thought that fixed it, then a month later it happened again. The last time it happened was friday, the time before that was in march 09'.
I have searched this online and found numerous try this but the original poster never comes back to say if the problem is fixed or what fixed it. My ABS light DOES NOT come on when this happens, it does function properly, it illuminates when the key is turned on then goes off. My parking brake no longer works either but I think that is from me "driving thru" the locked up rear brakes. I plan on replacign both drums and shoes within the next week but would like an option to repair the locking up issue.
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I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 that developed an odd problem almost two years ago that no mechanic I've taken it to has been able to find and fix, and I and my more car-savvy friends haven't had any luck with either.
About maybe 50% of the time when I sharply turn left (only left, never right) the brake pedal goes "soft" and the vehicle's braking power drops dramatically (but not entirely). Because of the sharp angle required to make this happen, and the low speeds I have to be moving at to even handle that sharp of a turn with this vehicle, this has only ever happened when I pull into a parking spot, and the vehicle still manages to come to a complete stop safely before being in danger of hitting anything. It never ever happens at any other time, and brakes like a champ normally.
I've had numerous other issues with the brakes in this vehicle in the last two years, all of which I've fixed. This one eludes me and every mechanic I've taken it to, though. I've replaced both calipers, both rotors, the brake pads, bled all four brake lines, and had the ABS control unit and ABS motor replaced.
At the time the issue first appeared, I had two damaged calipers caused by shoddy brake pads disintegrating on me (almost new, barely worn, but covered in pockmarks, looked like a Michigan road) and clogging up the calipers. That caused the vehicle to lurch to a halt with screeching tires if I so much as barely tapped the brake pedal. Replacing the calipers and brake pads fixed that issue, but did not fix the soft pedal issue when turning left. I ended up with the same screeching sudden stop problem recently when the ABS module went bad, replacing it fixed that, the brake pads and calipers are still in good condition, and replacing the ABS did not fix the soft pedal issue.
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I recently bought a 2006 Ranger with supposedly 110000 miles... I don't think I made a good deal... because I found the stabilizer end link in terrible shape which seems suspicious for this mileage in my personal opinion!? But this isn't the reason I am posting today... I have a serious breaking issue and I couldn't find explanation yet.
My ABS Light is on. When I slowly brake at low speed and when the brake is almost completely depressed... I hear a low humming sound, and the brake pedal seems to momentarily drop back just slightly. This also happens when I'm going down hill and breaking. For the most part, the car breaks, and it's only every 8th or 10th time braking that I experience this issue.
My guess is this is linked to the ABS... but I can't afford expensive service and need to resolve this on my own.
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Okay let me start by saying my car is APR Stage 1. The other day I was driving with my cruise control on and held in the accelerate button to speed up. After holding in the button for a couple seconds the check engine light and battery light flashed back and forth as if I changed some setting with the tune. Ever since that happened, if I turn the TCS off, the emergency brake light comes out and the error message 'check brake pads' is displayed on the MFI. Also, the weird part is that it's not just the light. The actual emergency brake is slightly on without pulling the handle. I can feel it when I accelerate. It's harder to get the car going. Once I turn the car off and leave it off for a few hours it goes back to normal. Why this is happening?
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