Just installed 2 new door lock actuators. While at a very long stop in traffic, a door lock clicking sound started to come from the door panels. The actual locks were not moving. Just the sound.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 Range Rover. I had 22's put on it for 1 week until I was able to buy regular tires for it. While I had the 22's on I went down a hill going 45 mph, the car began to shake back and forth severely, I thought the tire was about to fall off. Ever since then it squeals when I accelerate, and clicks when I turn left and right. I've had the belts looked at. I have no clue.
View 9 RepliesThe power locks on the front right door started making a ugly sound. I disassembled everything including the actual electric actuator and found that the problem is caused because one of the gears that got a teeth broken.
Now, I forgot to take a picture before I put it all together, but it was white gear about one inch in size with a little square thingy in one side that moves the actual lock.
I've done the best I can to block out an annoying sound coming from what I think are the door panels (unsure at this point).
When I bring the vehicle to a stop, release the brake and give it some gas (light to moderate acceleration, mind you), 90+/100 times I get a clearly audible "click" from one or both sides of the car. It seems to be emanating from the door panels. Sounds like hard plastic/plastic of maybe plastic/metal sound. It's not loud, but definitely there and definitely annoying since I enjoy driving without the radio on.
Issue was acknowledged by a tech and service manager at the dealership, who agreed this is not normal for a MKV, even one with 40,000 miles on it. However, they offered no solutions, only horror stories of fighting with door alignment on a MKVI.
I've been researching a problem with my power door lock. On my 2002 F-250 Lariat Crew Cab PSD (not the 76' SuperCab)] since Saturday when they began demonstrating the following symptoms:
1) No response to key fob (either lock or unlock)
2) No response to door switches (initially responded to unlock command only)
3) Whenever the key fob or door switch is pushed, a clicking noise from behind the dash occurs for about 15-20 seconds
4) When the key is in the ignition, the clicking from behind the dash is constant
5) Intermitantly, the actuators attempt to lock the doors when I close the door
6) Intermitantly, the locks will respond to some comands
7) Auto down feature on the driver's door window stopped working.
I found the clicking was coming from a unit behind the radio and just above the transmission hump on the firewall.
There are several threads on power door locks and I thought it might work others to have short summary and some links in one post as I just spent the last two days finding and reading these.
The most popular fix involves pulling the actuators apart to remove a thermistor from the motor that is prone to failure. This apparently rejuvinates the actuator motors and the directions for completing this are listed here Power Door Locks FIXED It's a long thread, but there are lots of step-by-step directions including pictures etc.
I tried this on mine, but it didn't work. The clicking from behind the dash is a different problem. At least when I get this fixed I'll have good actuator motors.
The next most popular fix simply involves spraying WD-40 into the door latches (not the hinges, but the latches). This seems to work for many people who have problems with the dome light staying on and other door switch related problems. Check out Door Open Light On Dash What Up? for more info on that.
I tried this too, but, unfortunately, the clicking is more than can be solved with a little WD-40. The Door Open Light On thread had some references to the Vehicle Security Module.
I found a number of threads on clicking from behind the dash and these threads all seem to point to a problem with the General Electrical Module (GEM) or the Vehicle Security Module (VSM). From what I could find, the VSM may have been a new part introduced in 2002 that replaced the GEM (but I'm not sure about this). Here are a couple of the more useful threads I found:
VSM Theory
Dash Open Light On Dash What Up?
What a great way to start the day! Nice little message on my MFD when I started the car up this morning. It drove to work just fine (which is right by the VW dealership) - but when I turned it off and started it again, the light was gone... Don't want to take any chances so I'll definitely bring it in. On a side note - I'm now hearing a clicking sound at speeds above 40mph. The noise gets faster as the car speeds up.
View 1 RepliesI recently starting hearing a very audible clicking/ticking sound in the rear that happens for about a second each time the car is started. After, everything seems to be just fine, but I don't know if this is something I should be concerned about.
I recently did some suspension work and I don't know if this is somehow related or if I'm now just extra sensitive to the sounds my car makes after the work was done. Perhaps the auto parking brake disengaging?
I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 105,000 miles. The transmission (or transfer case) recently started to make a clicking sound. It usually happens in 2 wheel drive mode and gets louder as the car warms up. the clicking sound occurs in all gears except park. It also gets faster with car speed. If the car is put into 4 wheel (full time) mode the sound seems to go away or is not as audible. When you shift back in 2 wheel drive mode the clicking sound comes back.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 passat with leather interior and I'm trying to put new speakers in it but I can't get the door panels off and everything I read about doing it says to split the door handle but the rear and passenger door handles don't split they are one piece so how to get them off so I can remove the panel
View 1 RepliesAny insight into door panel removal techniques?
View 24 RepliesMy new Passat has the keyless locking system and ATA (anti Theift Alarm) and the ATA confirm is enabled . When I lock the doors the headlights flash but the horn alarm does not sound unless I lockthe doors twice. My 2014 Passat sel with the keylass lock system horn sounded when the doors were locked the first time. Also on the 2014 if the trunk is opened with the doors locked the horn would sound when the trunk lid is closed. This is not the case with the 2016.
I have been in contact with VW customer care. The rep has been trying to resolve the problem to no avail. VW is trying to tell me that due to consumer complaints the 2016 was changed to sound horn on the second locking.
This sounds like a copout to me when the ATA confirm can be disabled in the MFI settings.
I have noticed as it gets colder, my car rattles more. I keep hearing random rattles, mainly in the door panels. Looking for remedy apart from going up to the dealership?
View 5 RepliesHow to remove the door panels? I tried to google it but I didn't have luck.
View 5 RepliesI started noticing that when I shift the car into reverse to back out of the driveway, the car door locks sound like they are trying to lock/unlock repeatedly for a couple of seconds. I know the car automatically locks the door when I shift out of park, but the multiple retries is a new behavior. All doors do lock. I do have the child locks enabled for the rear doors and that hasn't changed in 3-4 years. I also disabled them and the retries persist.
I have also noticed that around the same time (past month?) I must push the unlock button on the keyless entry remote twice to unlock all the doors--including the driver side door. In the past I only had to push the button once to just unlock the driver's door and the side lamps would flash, but one push doesn't do anything anymore. I've never changed the battery in the remote, but does the car care that the remote battery may be running low to exhibit this behavior? It's a 2010 SF with 52K miles.
I own a Hyundai Elantra 2015 SE, and was wondering if it has a door lock/unlock beeping sound. It doesn't beep at the moment when I lock and unlock it. I don't know if there is a setting or something. I've tried looking in the owner's manual, but found nothing.
I personally think it's a nice feature and would love to have it enabled in my car.
How do I remove the interior rear door panels?
My passenger side rear door handle does not work. My mechanic fixed it once, said the cable had jumped off the pulley. I figured it can't be that difficult to fix if I can get the door panel off.
How to take the door panels off ? I have to take mine off to replace the mirrors the wires run into the panel. Just thought id ask before I have at it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Azera and recently had the small part of the door handle fall off (part #83652E). I got a new part but wanted to know how easy it is to install this or whether I should have the dealer do it. Do I need a special tool to remove the door panel/clips or can I do it with something else. Once inside, is it just as simple as screwing the new part on through a hole in the door?
View 2 RepliesSo I bought a set of 05 towing mirrors today, got them installed and need to get the door panels off so I can disconnect the wire clip. I figured I would swap out the speakers while in there too so I assume 6X9? Also when I click the keyless entry button on the remote it unlocks all the doors but the driver door. The lock moves a little so I know it's getting a little tug but I still have to use the key to open it. What can I do to fix this?
View 10 RepliesRecently purchased a 2004 Toyota Camry with only 58,000 miles on it. Only one problem has showed up - the "door open" indicator stays lit - does get brighter when an actual door is open and shows which door but never goes all the way out. Sometimes it gets slightly brighter and dimmer, back and forth.
Sporadically when I start the car there is an audible clicking (cycling) back and forth that sounds like a turn signal coming from the fuse panel to the left of the steering wheel. The only way I can get it to stop is by opening the door, closing again, open and close the locks, turn the engine on and off, etc.
Yesterday it continued while I was driving and eventually stopped on its own (and again today). Weird - I think it must be a fuse or a relay or something but I pulled all the fuses one by one and they all look good. Not sure where the relay is....The door open indicator never goes completely out though - sometimes it pulses all night long but doesn't seem to run the battery down or anything.
My new 2013 Ford Focus is a making a very, very strange noise every time I open the door. The Ford dealer said it's normal for the type of trans and handed me the following statement: " ....vehicles equipped with the Powershift DPS6 transmission may experience a clicking noise from the transmission after the doors are unlocked, opened and prior to the engine starting, for up to 3 min.
The noise is the shift motors waking up and preparing for startup. Attempts to eliminate the noise should not be made." To make it easier to understand the situation, the following link from a YouTube video explains EXACTLY what is occurring: [URL] .....
Hearing such a ridiculous sound/concept about waking up a transmission. Note, this noise even happens when you open the passenger door. Why does the transmission need to be waked up for someone getting in the passenger side. The car cannot be driven from here.