Random Start Was Little Sluggish - Won't Idle In Gear
Aug 9, 2012
190,000 miles and idle has never been a problem. I noticed a few weeks ago that one random start was a little sluggish. Went to start it yesterday and it was dead, no cranking. A minute later it fired right up but now it won't idle if it's in gear. Runs in neutral or park but I have to keep taking it out of gear at stops or it starts stumbling, the idle drops and it dies. The check engine light never came on. The most recent work is a new AC compressor, two new O2 sensors in front of the cat, and a new power steering high pressure hose. At the dash gauges - oil pressure, engine temp, and voltage look good and it runs smooth at speed.
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Took the wifes Treg in today for:
1. Crazy vibration at idle (feels like a V8 running an aggressive cam!
2. Running Gear Fault light on at random
3. Loud "ting" noise under WOT (sounds like a soda can in a bicycle wheel.
4. Onstar - Service not recognizing spoken numbers when trying to dial
5. Air Compressor - works for 5-10 seconds then shuts off, have to restart vehicle to get another 5-10 seconds of air
I had the service manager take a ride and identify all the complaints (other than the compressor and the Running Gear Fault)..he said he will stay on top of it. If you recall, last time I took it in for the vibration at idle, I was told that since no fault codes were present, their is no problem. When sitting at a light your head is literally bobbing up and down, everything loose in the car is shaking...just horrible.
They should have it for a while. I got a Treg V6 as a loaner and actually like it better than the V8 (my wife disagrees). Power is onpar with a vehicle of this size/weight. Felt great, but handed the keys to the wife and grabbed mine and RAN!!!!
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I have been having this odd issue where my car will back fire after a cold start. It only happens when getting out of first gear and going into second while driving (it happens as soon as I press the clutch pedal all the way in, and stops as soon as the clutch pedal is back out). It doesn't happen all the time, just every now and then. My only explanation of this would be that I live a mile above sea level (I looked at the FAQs and know that the car will act like its about to die on a cold start, yet it doesn't). So with my only "explanation" of this phenomenon being that I live a mile above sea level and the engine running rich for a few minutes after start up. My car is stock with the exception of the flapper mod.
Pics for Clicks ......
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I have a 2008 Accent Hatchback with 130k+ miles. I got a pretty good deal on it from a fellow who maintained pretty good service and had installed an aftermarket air intake (well, he removed the stock one and put a small, roughly 4" diameter, filter that is open to engine compartment) and all looked pretty good.
At the first fueling, I noticed issue - I had to rev motor for about 30-45 seconds to get it to stay started. Figuring it was an evap issue, I replaced purge valve and gas cap (cap was obviously loose). This did not correct the problem. I did not worry about it to much because with that exception, the car drove wonderfully back and forth to work, etc.....until recently.
Car started "jumping" and being sluggish. Codes came back as random misfire. Plugs and wires are only a few months old. I wondered if it had something to do with fuel so I ordered filter and pump (figured i would replace both since I was going to be pulling top off tank anyways) - this is going to be my project for the day.
Here is the kicker though : I noticed in the past day or so that car has been okay on my short commute to work in the morning and back home in evening. When I went to store midday and was parked on HOT pavement, I had issues right away. Car is very temperamental as the temperature increases. My wife also noted that last night while driving about 15 minutes away that the engine wall was hot enough to be uncomfortable to the touch of her bare foot and issues were abundant.
Once I get to speed in 5th gear, I seem to be okay, no issues (yet). It is primarily during acceleration and mostly during low RPM (low for this car anyways which seems to run best at 2500+).
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I just bought a 1998 Camry 4 cylinder and i thought i needed to clean the EGR but my dad said it is the resonator. So I'm unsure on what it is exactly. it is kind of sluggish at idle and cant pass emissions. I was thinking of cleaning the egr since that is simple then if that doesn't work then I'll look into the resonator?
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96 dodge intrepid, 3.5. Few yrs back kid flooded it at -10f. I changed wet plugs and it started. Ran ok for 10miN, idled fine .n than I drove it 10 miles and it would not idle. I was 150mi from home and kept going. Car ran so-so. Seemed sluggish at 60mph. Exhaust actually made black/soot stain on bumper. My mileage on hwy was about 1/2 normal. I pulled plugs when I got home and they were black. Took about 1 week of driving to eventually settle down. Never did find any reason for issue. Some said my o2 sensors were buggy. I never changed them and had car for 2 more yrs and it ran great. Why it would not idle?
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What are the symptoms of a bad CPS. This thing is driving me crazy. Iv'e changed the accelerator, Throttle body, plugs. It runs really sluggish when in gear, sputters.
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I have a 2011 Corolla S Automatic with approx. 22,000 miles. This winter it is not wanting to shift from 3rd to 4th gear when it's cold (35 degrees F or lower). After I've driven about 1/2 to 3/4 mile it will finally upshift. It did not do this last winter.
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I have an 08 460 LS. I am experiencing sluggish acceleration. It feels like the car is in the wrong gear and has no power. This is intermittent and most of the time ok. Occasionally it is jerky when pulling out when it has proper power.
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The check engine light is on, all the gear indicator lights are on and acceleration is sluggish. I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow, but wanted to know where I stood before talking to them. I don't really trust them. Transmission? Gear shifter?
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I just recently bought a 337 edition gti and I absolutely love it. But the guy I bought it from says that it was chipped but he doesn't know what brand tune it is. But the problem, like the title suggests, is that in first gear the car pulls incredibly hard but as soon as I shift into second I lose all my momentum and it just feels sluggish.everyone that I've seen on these threads have said that I should be getting the most power I'm second and third gear. Is this tune just not a good one? Could there be something more?
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Scanned my APR chipped 2001 1.8T for a CEL and found the following codes.
17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
P1200 - 35-00 - -
17536 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean
P1128 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
P0411 - 35-00 - -
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror: Driver Side (Z4)
35-00 - -
01358 - Internal Central Locking Switch: Driver Side (E150)
27-00 - Implausible Signal
I don't the think last two codes are related. I did a thorough search on Vortex and there doesn't seem to be any posts on this combo of codes, the first 3 that is. There are a few posts about the N249 and Fuel trim codes which may seem to be relate to vac leaks around the N249.
In terms of symptoms, I haven't noticed anything new. The car does seem sluggish on first and second and gear but it's been like that for months if not a year but no codes. I've had rough cold starts which has also been around for a very long time and I attributed this to the secondary air pump since the dealer found nothing wrong. The only real problem I've had for about a year is the car seems to have a global power loss at times where the entire cluster would start blink and beeping, usually after I use the power windows when the lights are on. All interior and exterior lights would also dim when this happens. Sometimes, the entire car would even shut off when I'm stopped. I've taken it to the dealer multiple times and no one has been able to figure it out. They think it's a look wire somewhere. Anyways, it comes and goes.
I do have an APR chip and it's been in for probably 8 years. So, basically no new symptoms really and all the codes are new. I've erased them and rescanned after driving and they all came back.
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I am having some trouble with my 02 Buick recently. The acceleration from a stop is very sluggish and gear changes come slowly, although they still seem to shift smoothly. The first thing I did was check the fluid levels and I can find nothing wrong there. The trans fluid was last changed 3 years ago, but the level, color, and smell are all normal so surely that couldn't be the culprit ?Unfortunately, that about exhausts my diagnostic skill.
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What could be the issue at hand here. I just recently bought a 337 edition gti and I absolutely love it. But the guy I bought it from says that it was chipped but he doesn't know what brand tune it is. But the problem, like the title suggests, is that in first gear the car pulls incredibly hard but as soon as I shift into second I lose all my momentum and it just feels sluggish.everyone that I've seen on these threads have said that I should be getting the most power I'm second and third gear. Is this tune just not a good one? Could there be something more?
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2003 3.0 FFV 5 speed automatic...... Just noticed recently that it seems slow to go into 2nd gear.....the rest of the shifts seem fine, firm and unchanged.....
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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The notorious 3.6 high idle has haunted me for over a year now. When it first started happening, I thought it was a temporary thing. It has been happening for a year now and the stealership has not been able to diagnose it. It has started happening more frequently now, no matter the weather. The idle overall is just rough. I place the car in neutral sometimes at a red light because the vibration and idel is so rough. The transmission is sluggish, and as i come to a stop sometimes, i can feel the rough downshifts it makes from gear to gear. And just today, after I picked up the car from the dealership from a failed diagnosis of the high rev problem, my parking sensors stopped working. When the system turns on(car in Reverse), there is a steady beep even while there is nothing behind me. Even as the car is moving(below 10mph) the car makes three beeps, every five seconds or so. I do not know what to do. I have a feeling that even if I take it to a different stealership, I will get the same results.
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I have a 1991 Buick LeSabre, sometime last year the check engine light came on, and I took it into a mechanic who told me that a magnetic sensor on the timing gear broke off and that it is the problem with the car, but it would cost me 500 dollars to replace the part, because it is located in the engine. I noticed that the engine felt like it lost power, and the car started vibrating when I was idle. The beginning this year, I replaced the spark plug wires, and replaced the spark plugs, when I replaced the spark plug wires, I realized that two of the wires were broken, as soon as I was done.
I tested the car, and the power is back, but I still have the stalling problem. I will try to describe how the car stalls, I come to a stop, and when I push on the gas to accelerate, the car just conks out, so I have to restart the car, and rev it a little to keep it from conking out again, and it starts running normally. I have been told by another mechanic that I need to replace a Electronic Ignition Control module, which I can not find, and that it is possible the fuel is not getting into the chambers. I just want some answers to my problem, so the car will last me till I can get a new vehicle or something better.
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My 2011 F150 5.0 was bought used a year ago, and ran like new. A few months ago, several things started acting up.
* clicking at idle. Just a tick-tick-tick-tick kinda like a diesel. I swear it just started, but the dealer tells me it's "normal".
* Oil - I'm "losing" about a half quart a month. No leaks. 1500 miles after a change, it's dingy. (not dirty just brown) Dealer tells me it's "normal" that these trucks consume a little oil and that it will get dirty.
All that I could ignore but this is what bothers me:
The truck seems to struggle, mildly, to maintain speed on hills. It'll drop to 1k rpms before downshifting. Just a pig. Of course if I stomp it to the floor I get a good response, but it is just sluggish and wimpy when driving "normally". Also, when maintaining speed, there's a barely noticeable missing/slipping happening. When I pull a couple thousand pounds it really struggles.
This is happening. Three dealers tell me there's nothing wrong with the truck. After pressing the first dealer they admitted they never drove the truck. The second dealer called me to pick it up because nothing was wrong and also admitted to not having driven it. After I demanded they drive it, they called back still saying nothing is wrong. "The computer would show it if there was a problem." The third dealer has it now, drove it this morning, guess what? "There's nothing wrong, maybe you can come and show us."
I cannot believe the industry has lost the ability to diagnose vehicles beyond what a computer tells them. Do techs not check compression or ignition or fuel pressure any more? Seems to me a valve issue for example could be the cause of all my symptoms, or fuel delivery, or weak spark, none of which would show up on the freaking computer.
Coyote 5.0 engine and the 6R80 trans.
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1992 S10 Blazer, 4.3L, 4x4, TBI "Z"
When I start the truck, it idles rough, like it's idling too low, and even feels like it's missing during idle. Sometimes when I put it in gear (reverse or drive), it shuts off. No codes are being thrown. It has no problems driving around town or on the highway. It's just that initial start and idle.
I've checked all the following with a shop manual:
Ignition Control Mod.- Orig and 2nd one from junk yard. Both tested good at store. Even the testing in the shop manual with an ohm meter and battery tested good.
Ignition coil- tested good using shop manual testing
TPS- Scan shows .2-.7 at idle.
Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are good.
Vacuum is good.
Haven't checked IAC, EGR
I recently moved cross country, and about halfway through, I broke down. Engine would turn over, fuel relay would click, injectors would work, but no fuel. Pulled it in to a truck shop, and after all my testing and theirs, we determined it was the fuel pump. After they had to fix a pinched hose, it ran. I made it to Texas. I didn't have the idle issues prior to the trip. Just had the tranny rebuilt and everything was great.
I thought, at first, the ignition control mod was the problem because it got a bit warm pulling the trailer, and I know those things don't like too much heat. No dice. So, what controls idle at Park and in gear but at idle? EGR, IAC?
I did a WinALDL scan. IAC at Park/Idle ranges from 18-55. The engine never runs in Open Loop. I would say the engine runs mostly rich according to the scan. I've attached a manageable version of the WinALDL data.
Also, I need to check the thermostat or temp sensor. Scan reads the engine never getting higher than 180.
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My girlfriends 06 Sonata 4cyl threw a p0011 code a week or so ago. I looked online and saw that it could be dirty oil so I immediately changed it (it was about 400 miles overdue at that point). I also looked on the forums here and was referred to a thread that suggested replacing the oil control valve. My girlfriend drove to work a few times before I fixed it (maybe a 100 miles total) and the car stalled out in the middle of an intersection. I then replaced the OCV and to my discontent the problem was still very present. Very loud knocking or clanking under the valve cover and sluggish idle. Her mechanic now says that it is a job for a hyundai dealership and that it could be something as bad as a head or engine rebuild. What the problem could be?
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