I have a 2001 ram 1500 sometimes when I go to start it, it begins to run rough like it is off timing and then it dies, do a restart and it runs ok, it has done this a few times when I come to a traffic signal. it just starts running rough and the stalls.
View 5 RepliesStarts fine. Runs fine till warmed up. Then dies at idle and runs rough on gear till 1000 rpm. Has only coded iac when unplugged. But would idle with it unplugged. I replaced it. Also got crank can code once while checking it ...
2001 dodge ram 1500 318 engine ....
I have 130K miles on my Santa Fe. I just replaced the timing belt without the water pump being replaced. Picked it up from the mechanic and the check engine light was on and it was idling very rough. Left it there for him to recheck. He said maybe he didn't plug in the Cam Sensor all the way or at all. Next day he called me and said that the cam sensor was bad and he replaced it for free. Picked up the vehicle and the idle was a little rough but got worse on the ride home.
View 1 RepliesI recently replaced timing belt and balance belt on my 2004 santa fe 2.4l and now the engine runs like crap and shakes badly. I went over all timing marks again and again and I am at a loss.
View 9 RepliesTruck in question has 175k, is the TBI version (fuel injected carburetor design), has had the plugs cap and rotor replaced fairly recently.
When cold, it starts and runs normally. As it warms (after around 20 miles) it starts running rough, then after getting warmer/full operating temp, it will stall at stop signs and runs very rich - so rich you can smell the unburned fuel. At this point it is also difficult to start and requires adding some gas pedal.
I am thinking a vacuum issue, or something that is not allowing it to transition from the warm up cycle to normal cycle.
I just replaced the water pump and put it all back together, now it won't run well enough to drive. Checked vacuum system, all sensor connections, hoses, gas cap, changed fuel filter, I can hear the fuel pump kick in, reset system with battery disconnected and have looked at everything I can think of so far.
Now - starts fine, idles about 10 seconds and then begins to idle rough and dies. If I use the throttle I can often keep the idle up, but then backfires or acts like no fuel and again dies. Used fuel cleaner and made sure there was plenty fuel in tank.
I am looking at replacing sensors at this point but which one first?? They get a bit expensive real quick.
My Uncle has a 2001 Dodge Ram. He has bled the lines and the calipers have released. But still ABS light will not go out?
View 10 RepliesTurn the key, engine won't turn over, straight hook up starter with battery cables, starter spins engine won't turn, all lights come on on instrument panel, checked all fuses, relay, etc..solenoid won't kick gear into flywheel.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Sienna with 115,000 miles on it. After about 15 minutes of driving, a vibrating buzzing dentist-drill like sound begins to come from the back left of the car (this is also where I put in the gas if that has anything to do with it). I do not know what it sounds like from the outside but its definitely a buzzing sound from the inside. As I increase in RPMs the buzzing sound gets more and more high pitched.
I do not drive this car very much, but about a month ago I was driving down a mountain using the breaks a lot and the buzzing sound started for the first time with a rubber smell. At this point because of the rubber smell, we just thought it was an issue with the breaks and after taking a 20 minute rest, the car drove the rest of the 400 miles or so perfectly fine without any buzzing. I don't use the car very much because I am in college, but when I do, like I said, after 15 minutes this buzzing starts.
98 1500 4x4 quad, 5.2.. Did run fine. Go out to start wont start just clicks once. Replaced starter and the battery. Still only clicks once. checked voltage across terminals to the grounds. swapped relays around still one click. Going to check in the morning make sure it didn't seize.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 with a 2010 crate 5.7 hemi in it.
Recently, I would go to start the truck, and it would just crank and not start, and the ETC light would come on. I'm able to cycle the key to off, then start it again when I give it gas. I try to clean the throttle body regularly, but it was clean today when I checked it. Sometimes it will start, and immediately the ETC light will come on, and the engine will miss very badly. If I plug a scanner into the truck when the light comes on, no codes are present. What may be causing this?
2001 F450/6.8 gasser. Auto trans. This strange thing just appeared from nowhere. Start the truck, put it gear. As soon as the truck starts to roll, the chime begins to sound. If I continue on, it'll beep 80 or 90 times before stopping. As soon as brakes are applied and the wheels stop turning, chime disappears. Happens in forward or reverse. No lights appear in the cluster. A check with an Actron scanner shows no codes or MIL. Seat belts are buckled.
View 4 RepliesWhen I try to start my wife's '06, it takes a little bit longer to start than in the past (used to take only 2 turns or so, now it takes 3 or 4). When it does finally ignite, it's a rough ignition and then it goes to normal. Why this is happening?
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2006 Elantra with 102,xxx miles. When starting the car, especially a cold start, it ignition is rough, sometimes a jolt. It runs fine after that. What might be the issue? FYI, i replaced the spark plugs in August or so.
View 4 RepliesMy GF has a 2002 Elantra, and recently, she's had a remote start kit put in her car. Previously, though, we were moving something in/out of her car and broke the shift knob and the rod became bent, so we had to bend the rod back to be able to put the car back into park. (The car is an auto).
Recently, she's had a couple rough/no starts from her car. There have been a few times where she would come over to my house and the car would not restart soon after she turns off the ignition. However, the car will start rough about 3 hours later and run perfectly fine once it cranks. This doesn't happen often, but enough to be troublesome.
The problem with this though is the fact that sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't, and it runs PERFECTLY fine. The lights are not dimming, the battery is not dying, the car has not required to be jumped. While having these problems we drove the car around for about 5-6 hours and it was perfectly fine. Her dad thinks it's the alternator, but the battery hasn't been losing any charge and the battery hasn't been dying. There has been one time where her father moved the shifter up and down and put it back into park and the car started just fine. Could this be related to the shifter, and how the car isn't reading that's it's fully in park to relay ignition? Her dad said he tested the alternator and it was "bad," but like I said, if the alternator was bad, her battery would be losing charge, and that is definitely not the case.
I had a rough idle and now car wont start. 2002 elantra, 4 cylinder. replaced tps, replaced fuel filer, cleaned IAC. I can hear fuel pump car wont stay running...
View 22 RepliesWell, a couple months ago my engine started making a noise. We located the issue to be a loose timing belt. We had it tightened, and the noise stopped, but since then it kind of acted like it was a little out of time with rough idles every now and then. This past week, I had driven my car out. I came to a 4-way stop and the car shut off on me. It would not immediately start back up so I pushed it to the side and waited a bit. It started up after sitting for a few minutes and cooling down. I got it back home and it stalled right as I was turning into my driveway (after the RPMs had lowered to idle).
A couple of days ago I set out to replace the timing belt as it seemed to me the timing was off ever since we tightened the belt and it eventually got worse, thus the stalling. I changed the timing belt, set the timing on the cams the way it shows to be set below:
I set the timing on the crankshaft pulley to the specifications found in this video:
Which is putting the crankshaft pulley on and turning it until it aligns with the '0' mark on the bottom timing cover. So I decide to start the car without anything else on to make sure its in time. It fires right up so I shut it off quickly and go about putting it all back together.
Once the car is completed, I attempt to start it again. It fires up, I back it up and it dies. It would not start back. I waited a few minutes and attempted to start it again, it started up so I pulled it back up to the same spot it was in and shut it off. Took the pieces off again, got it back to where I could line the timing up again. I again set the timing one more time to make sure. It was set correctly. I then tried starting the car again and this time it would not crank.
I gave up for now as its 30 degrees outside and I have been working on it non stop for 3 days to no avail.
I just had my timing belt, water pump, etc. replaced at a reputable indie VW shop. I just got the car back and it seems to idle a bit rough. The car used to purr like a kitten but now it shakes a bit in idle. Seems to run fine but the idle is rough. I'm going to bring it back to the shop on Monday. Can the timing be off a bit? Will it ever purr like a kitten again?
View 2 RepliesMy coworker is giving me a clean 2001 Santa Fe with 151000 miles. It was running fine then all of the sudden it lost power but was able to stutter home. I went to check it out it started fine but idled a little rough. When I revved the engine it rose to about 2500rpm and stuttered then stalled. Kind of like it was rich and choking out. It then had difficulty restarting.
View 10 RepliesI'm having this cold start issue with my 2001 SF, but it doesn't seem to be fuel related like as the car starts fine but after about literally 1-2seconds the RPMs drop below 1k and the car will stall if I don't put my foot on the accelerator and keep it around 1000-2000 RPMs. But if I happen to make the revs go too high and let them drop again it seems like it wants to stall even easier. After about 30 seconds it smoothens out and drives almost perfectly except for a slight lack of power than normal going uphill (A.T drops to 2nd gear, sometimes 1st depending on the incline). We have had the coolant temp sensor and the fuel pressure sensor replaced. Could it be the MAF? We did clean it one time but it didn't seem to work much at all. Recently out of curiosity, I disconnected the MAF sensor and started the car it being started for a few days. No issue with idling whatsoever!.. ??
View 4 RepliesSo about six months ago I bought a used 2010 mkvi gti from a small dealer. Now here's my problem. The other day i started my car and it was a rough start. And the car ran rough. I stalled twice trying to back up. Then the car threw a light. I didnt drive it at all. Shut it off and left it. Read the code that night. P0016
Now I know the timing tensioner thing has been beaten to death. So that's my first thought. However, there was never a rattle or a noise. Nothing like that. Is it possible? All four cylinders have compression. About 210psi. I don't know if that is good or bad. Plugs are worn but look good enough. Not too much junk on them. Coil packs look "newer" and they are the "upgraded" versions. Other than the tensioner what else could cause a p0016 failt?