Ram / SRT10 :: 2003 5.7 Hemi - Only ETC Lights Shows Up, Cranks But Won't Start
Oct 28, 2015
I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 with a 2010 crate 5.7 hemi in it.
Recently, I would go to start the truck, and it would just crank and not start, and the ETC light would come on. I'm able to cycle the key to off, then start it again when I give it gas. I try to clean the throttle body regularly, but it was clean today when I checked it. Sometimes it will start, and immediately the ETC light will come on, and the engine will miss very badly. If I plug a scanner into the truck when the light comes on, no codes are present. What may be causing this?
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I recently bought an 03 Hemi Ram 4x4 and it has a nasty clicking/grinding type noise in 4wd when turning the steering wheel. If going straight it's fine. The driver side cv joint was bad, so I replaced both sides thinking this would stop the noise, but it didn't. Not sure if this is related, but when driving down the road in 2wd, it sounds like I'm dragging a chain underneath the truck. It's not real loud, but I can here it.
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So I'm not new to fixing this car but I'm now stuck. It is not the inhibitor switch, I had that replaced, and the car cranks so it is not the problem. In addition, the "P" shows up on the dash. Since the car cranks, its not the battery, it is showing 12.25V.
I am afraid it is the fuel pump. Looking for the specs for the fuel pump such as resistances/ voltages? Sometimes when it cranks, I believe it ignites for half a second and then dies. Then it cranks with no ignition, then it sounds like its dying, then it ignites every once in a while.
Similar to this: [URL] ..... but without the nastiness at 0:08 where they turn off the car mid crank.
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I have my My brother-in-law's blazer in my garage after a 60 mile tow. This is a TBI model with distributor. The dash lights went out, and it cranks fine but does not fire, even with starting fluid sprayed int the throttle body. Below are the details of what has been done so
far:
- Checked all fuses, none are blown.
- Could not get a spark from the coil wire when next to block while turning it over
- with ignition on we are only getting .11 volts from the connector that goes to the coil, should this be 12 volts?
- Ignition module tested ok (out of the vehicle at an auto zone and they said it was fine)
- can hear the fuel pump run at startup, (was replaced with a delphi pump last winter, but we could not get the fuel filter off at the time and he never replaced it)
- Did not check fuel pressure, but it sprayed out at test port when I pushed the valve.
PCM failure? What else?
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I have a 2010 Corolla LE w/ about 90k miles. I took it to work. parked. Went back to car. Engine cranks. Won't start. Lights are bright. Radio on. Jumped it and it started up no problem. Took it and got a brand new battery. turned car on and it worked with no problems. took it home. next day went to work. started w/ no problem. After work, started with no problem.
NEXT DAY... Engine cranks again....won't start. Tried to jump it again but NOTHING.
(also, just want to mention there is no history or indication that this was gonna happen. no jumpy starts...no shaking...nothing.)
Someone came out and checked: alternator, battery, starter, everything checks out good and working.
Spark plugs: GOOD but no spark...thought it might be crank sensor. Tried to change that out, still won't start.
In the midst of all this my key was acting up. finally it broke out of the lock part....the actual key separated (not broke) from the alarm part. i went to go make a duplicate w/ the key part and tried the duplicate key and it still won't start. do these things have a chip in them that activates the crank sensor? I've been w/o my car for about a week and i feel as though it's right in front of me.
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This has happened twice in 3 years....I get regular service from a Ford dealer and am overdue.... I think it may be temp related. Has been below freezing the last few nights. Truck was parked on an incline during the last two "shutdowns" ( engine lower than bed slightly), I drifted to a level position and it started. This has only happened twice previously. Now it seems to be a permanent problem but I am unable to get to the dealer without a tow... which I am trying to avoid.
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98 1500 4x4 quad, 5.2.. Did run fine. Go out to start wont start just clicks once. Replaced starter and the battery. Still only clicks once. checked voltage across terminals to the grounds. swapped relays around still one click. Going to check in the morning make sure it didn't seize.
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I have a 2003 430 with 110K miles. Car would not start this morning. It cranks so it appears the battery and starter are fine. Battery was changed last winter. I had the timing belt changed at 80k. Its been a great car with very little problems.
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I am having a problem starting my VW Golf 2.0 since yesterday. When i turn on the ignition the car cranks up but does not start. I did a computer odb check and it gave me out some error codes.
here are a few things that i noticed sometime back:
While driving once or twice suddenly the car wasn't accelerating when i pressed the accelerator. This happened to me twice but then it was OK. Didn't have an issue again.
Sometimes the car gear doesn't shift gear i have to shutdown the car and start it again, then it shifts gear properly. I feel like the car is consuming a bit extra fuel. How I can fix this and what the issue is?
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I'm trying to diagnose a no start issue on my son's 1997 F150 4.6L W code motor. It quit on him while driving and we haven't been able to get it re-started since. We immediately assumed the fuel pump was bad as we were not getting any fuel pressure and we cannot hear the pump running at key on. So we pulled the pump and bench tested it, and the pump itself seems fine.
We then checked for spark, we have spark in all cylinders. After that we started checking fuses and #30 under the dash was blown. We replaced that and it blew again at Key on. We ended up going through about a 1/2 dozen of them while poking and prodding at misc. wire harnesses trying to figure out why it keeps blowing. Today we put a new one in and have tried restarting and that one is not blowing anymore, but we still cannot get fuel pressure. We've checked all fuses and swapped relays around. We noticed that under the dash #20 and #21 do not have power, but the fuses are ok. Are we finally on to something here?
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While going from 45 to 50 MPH, there is a shaking in the front end. Also, above 60 MPH the shaking starts again, but it's more of a rougher vibration. Both u-joints were replaced less than 2 months ago as well as both hub bearings. Tires are rough with only the front left one having decent tread, and I do not remember the last time the tires were balanced. Could this be it? I'm about to put 35 inch toyo mt's and 20x10 fuel maverick rims on it, could new tires fix this problem? Or maybe it could be tire pressure or camber?
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I have a 2001 ram 1500 sometimes when I go to start it, it begins to run rough like it is off timing and then it dies, do a restart and it runs ok, it has done this a few times when I come to a traffic signal. it just starts running rough and the stalls.
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My wife's 03 accent cranks over good, but won't start. It does fire some but won't start. I tried squirting starter fluid in the intake and that only made it fire less. Spark is strong on all four cylinders. At first I thought I found the problem because it had weak spark on the middle two cylinders and i replaced that coil pack and now all four are strong, but still same problem.
She drove it home and parked overnight, and in the morning it wouldn't start. I don't think it is the timing belt. I replaced it not too long ago, and I took a peak behind the top of the cover and all still appears to be as it should.
I am now at a bit of a loss. I mean it has good spark, won't start with starting fluid, so what could it be?
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I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat. About a month ago I stopped to fill up with gas and afterwards it would crank but not start. After a few tries the engine would no longer turn over. My battery was 7 years old so I replaced it and the problem went away for about 5 days. Then the same thing, crank but no start. I checked all the fuses & called the local Ford dealer.
After talking with the parts dept. I tried hitting the panic button then the truck started. After talking to parts again I replaced the PATS transceiver. After 3 weeks with no issues the problem came back. This time I locked the doors with the keyless entry remote then unlocked them & the truck started. So I'm wondering what is my problem. Could it be the PATS module or something with the keyless entry module or some other issue.
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F-150 Super Crew 5.4 4X4 cranks won't start. what and where do I check first?
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Several months ago, my truck begins having starting issues. Intermittently, the truck will not start, even though it cranks fine. I have done the following:
- checked inertia fuel switch. Okay.
- checked connections under hood for corrosion. Okay.
- checked fuses & start relay. Also swapped relays with no luck fixing the problem.
- sprayed water at various locations under the hood and bed, since the problem occurs more often when raining. No luck stressing the problem.
- changed fuel filter a couple weeks ago. No luck fixing the problem.
- changed battery over the winter (due to my 8 year old battery was becoming weak). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- changed the starter a month ago (since the truck stopped cranking). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- Installed a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
- Tried banging on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet. No luck fixing the intermittent starting issue.
When the truck refuses to start, the fuel pressure reads 0. Sometimes I can wait 5-10 minutes, and it will start. The truck runs fine after starting.
Sometimes waiting 5-10 minutes will not solve the problem (fuel pressure remains 0). Then, I hook my battery charger to the battery, and the voltage climbs from ~12.5V to 14.7V. The fuel pressure climbs to 30, and the truck starts.
I'm apprehensive to change the fuel pump, since it seems like more an electrical problem than a pump problem. Any diagnostic test that will tell the true problem source?
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Here's the deal. Ive got a 2000 f150 4.6 4x4xlt 170000 miles, About 2 ears ago or so the truck would not start on the first try or two. now this only occurred every once and a while. Last winter it became more of a problem. All i had to do was cycle the key a couple times listen for the pump to prime and was good to go. Summer rolls around no problem at all. Fall rolls around and here we go again no prime. cycle the key a couple times good to go. As it gets colder the problem gets worse. No we fast forward to couple a weeks ago, was out in the woods cutting firewood i go to move the truck and it wont start. I have to cycle the key like 30-40 times. Now its doing it like every time i go to mov the truck until yesterday. Now it wont prime at all. Now every time it primed in the past it runs perfect after it starts . the filter has been changed every 12-15000 or every fall, Ive replaces the fuel pump relay to try it no change, tryed the other key no difference. Im leaning towards a pump but ive never heard of one doing this before.
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About a month ago, my 2001 f150 supercrew (4x4 5.4L) didn't want to start one morning. This was after a very cold night (15 degree temps). It sounded like it had plenty of juice in the battery (cranked good), just wouldn't start. Later in the day, after it warmed up, still no start. I dug thru here, and someone recommended disconnecting the positive battery cable for a minute then retrying. I did it, and it worked. All was good.
About a week ago, no start in the morning again. Tried the positive cable disconnect, no luck. After several hours, it just seemed to randomly start, and all was well again.
Today, truck started right up in the morning, but later in the afternoon (warm winter day 45 degrees) no start. Tried the positive cable disconnect, no luck. After screwing with the truck for about an hour, I decided to put the fuel pressure gauge on the rail. NO fuel pressure.
Is fuel pressure associated with the PATS, or is this a straight up fuel system problem?
Additional info: My gas tank fell out this summer, (recall on those tank straps), and I had a new tank, pump, straps and lines installed. I had a no crank, no start issue this summer, but that turned out to be the transmission not registering in park. I assume the two issues are unrelated.
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4.0 SOHC cranks once no start, then starts on second crank. 104K miles and used to idle very smooth, now mildly rough and sometimes upon stopping the rpms will dip down to almost stalling but not every time. Also just had the fuel pump replaced.
Also... Seafoam? Is this really as good as it sounds, I mean it can be used on anything, except cereal!
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I have a 03 xc90 t6 came out of work the other day and it wouldn't start replaced spark plugs, both cam sensors, crank sensor. After doing all that it sounds like it wants to fire now but doesnt.
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The Engine cranks over fine, but won't start. When it does start everything is okay and it runs good with no codes. I noticed that by taking the key out of the ignition, I was checking under the hood, and put it back in the truck fired right up. Also it has never done this to the second driver who has a different key. The truck runs fine at all speeds and loads, even when hauling twenty bags of wet mulch. It's a 2001, 4.6 L, RWD. Could the PATS Chip be failing?
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