Ram / SRT10 :: 2000 / 1500 - Replaced Motor And Tiny Ground Wire Shorted Out
Mar 21, 2016
The problem I had started 2 months ago. Wipers froze to windshield and I didn't get it loose enough so I turned wipers on it moved and then stopped, figured just frozen,.. but once I got it all loose she didn't work. Tested everything
When I was pulling the motor I noticed it was kinda working when moving around.. but I replaced motor I found out testing with the new motor that tiny ground wire was shorted out. I guess it burned somewhere, as when I ran a wire from the motor to a bolt. It worked. Motor did work slow.
But I was driving other day and wanted to use wipers boom not working. I just pulled it off. Motor doesn't seem to be working but the delay is working I run a meter to the battery and then to the 1 wire on the harness and she trips on and off the 12 volts. So I guessing the motor is burned out. And that thin ground wire has no ground to it so I'm sure it blew before the 25 amp breaker will ever break
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I was driving my truck and then started binging and I looked at dash and the air bag light lit up, what does this mean what would be wrong?
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The Battery Light flashes on 2002 excursion 7.3l. I have been having a problem for several months, one of the batteries ended up being shot, alternator checks out. Problem is there is nor rhyme or reason as to when or if the light will flash, it is not consistent with a shorted wire that is bouncing around and grounding out.
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I replaced the power steering pump on my 2000 f250 Power stroke. I bled the lines, and when the wheels are on the ground, I have no steering. When I raise the wheels off the ground, I have no problems turning stop to stop.
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98 1500 4x4 quad, 5.2.. Did run fine. Go out to start wont start just clicks once. Replaced starter and the battery. Still only clicks once. checked voltage across terminals to the grounds. swapped relays around still one click. Going to check in the morning make sure it didn't seize.
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The clock/CD player in my Prius 2001 stopped working after I accidentally touched a red wire to ground/car body. The 7.5A fuse next to it is fine, so are the visible fuses. The radio is OK too, with the previous setting.
A Toyota mechanic told me that the clock/CD player needed to be replaced since one of the 4 wires to the clock has power.
But the clock can start to run after ACC is on and can be barely visible when headlights are on. It seems that there are 2 sets of power to the clock, one for display and the other is always-on for clock running, and the always-on power is down.
After I checked the wires I think the always-on power may come from the metal box(~5"x5", is it a computer?) under dashboard if it's not from a gateway box.
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So when it rains sometimes my ABS will go off till I drive it down the road a bit... Where is the location of the ground wire for this thing? I've checked up under it and no wires are cut or burnt... just wonder where this thing grounds to... if I can find that I may be able to clean it and fix the sensor.... because something makes me believe the sensor isn't bad, because some times it works for a half mile or so... before it goes back on.
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My 2007 F150 5.4L would not crank at all the other morning. After checking the battery, I discovered that the ground wire to the starter was completely frayed and broken off right at the eyelet connector to the starter. I spliced it back together and the truck fired right up.
However, the check engine light suddenly appeared and I got a P0453 code which apparently indicates a high reading at the fuel pressure sensor. The CEL never appeared until the broken wire happened. I took a quick look at the fuel pressure sensor and wiring and nothing appears to be obviously broken.
One other thing I've noticed for a few weeks is a miss under load while driving. I have not seen any codes at all for the miss. I was leaning toward replacing the coil overs but now I'm wondering if the miss is related to the fuel pressure sensor.
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2000 Alero. Wife reported to me she had no blower motor. I pulled the motor and it tested good. Next I replaced the resistor with one from auto zone. Now I have blower in all but the 5th and highest position. I suspect a bad new resistor but I left it for now because it's a pain to remove.
Could I have got a bad resistor? In my experience a bad resistor will give you high and nothing else.
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Trying to find ground wire location on my 99 f250 super duty with the 5.4 triton I didn't unbolt it myself. Going to be doing the big 3 upgrade soon and would like to use the factory ground spots.
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I found a loose blue/white ground wire in my engine compartment. Where this exactly needs to be ground ed to? Been having dash cluster light issues also.
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I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L V8 4x4 ... Automatic transmission sport model
I have a severe shaking at 1500 rpm last gear and a slight shaking at idle doesn't shake when I'm off the gas barely shake when I kick it into higher revs but I than hear piston slap.
I replaced the spark plugs and I have brand new U-joints. Last night I checked all the plug wires and they are all getting spark. But my exhaust is skipping like I'm not firing in a couple cylinders
I checked the rear transmission mount (I'm replacing it). And the Engine mounts look ok but I'll check again today
I've read a ton of forums and they all have different answers so I'm really trying to figure out what is wrong before I spend a bunch of money replacing things that won't fix it!
I've read that it can be my tranny, TC, Harmonic Balancer, Steering Stabilizer, pinions, Tie rods, Steering(over all), IAC, Fuel System, IgnitionSystem.
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I have a 2000 F-150 supercab with a 4.6 in it and I am having all kinds of problems after accidentally shorting the battery positive post to the negative power for several seconds. The series of events is as follows.
The previous owner must have had an amplifier installed or whatever for a car stereo the empire was left in the engine compartment and while doing routine maintenance accidentally arced it across the + & - battery posts where is moving around and arced for over ten seconds st least.
Now when I fired the truck up after this had opened the same title fine maybe a slight Miss but it idles fine. However whenever you lay into the throttle even when in park it just cuts out and has a severe misfire is what it seems like. It seems like several cylinders are dead. Along with this the overdrive off light is flashing constantly. Now when I put the truck into gear and drive the the damn thing just spiders and spits and barely takes off and doesn't improve at all it never shift out of second gear and it barely runs at all just sputters and spits the whole way down the road.
Here's what's been done. I assumed it was an ECU problem so I went to the salvage yard and pulled one from donor vehicle same year same Powertrain it was actually an expedition but other than that it was the same I then flat bed the truck to the Ford dealership to have the ECU reflash do to the fact that it would turn over but never start after installing the new ECU from the donor vehicle. I picked it up today from the Ford dealership and surprise surprise I still have all of the same problem. So the ECU was obviously not the problem. This morning I have proceeded to replace every fuse and relay in the entire vehicle. And still my problems remain. So now I have plug in my CP 9185 Actron Elite Auto scanner and pulled the codes of which it had 18 of. Now I am leaning towards the fact that it's probably not all 18 of these sensors or whatever burned out. Here is the list of codes as they come across on my scanner tool.
P1747 pressure control solenoid"A" circuit short
P0750 shift solenoid "A" malfunction
P0755 shift solenoid "B" malfunction
P0743 torque converter circuit electrical
P0443 EVAP control system purge valve fault
P1451 EVAP control system vent control circuit malfunction
P0135 O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction 1/1
P0141 O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction 1/2
P0155 O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction 2/1
P0161 O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction 2/2
P1401 differential pressure feedback EGR ckt high input
P1549 intake manifold comm cntrl ckt error bank 1
P1000 OBD systems readiness test not complete
P0740 TCC circuit malfunction
P0753 shift solenoid "A" circuit electrical
P0758 shift solenoid "B" circuit electrical
P1760 pressure control solenoid "A" Intermittent circuit short
P1460 wide open throttle A/C cutout circuit malfunction
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Recent motor swap, wont turn over, headlights come on when key is on accesory Wiring problem? Stock Harness. ONLY wires touched were for throttle body and fuel ingection.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban. The blower fan for the heater/AC was only working on high so I replaced the resistor and relay at the same time. Still no change so I replaced the switch and 30 amp fuse. The first three settings worked but not the high. I checked continuity of the wires between the switch and relay and they were fine. I then thought it might be the blower fan which I replaced but still not working on high.
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I have water leaking from bottom of motor it's look like coming from oil pan its chevy1500 1999 4/4with a v6 motor but not for sure looked at oil no water in oil it's really comes out when motor is running.
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Do I have to pull out the complete switch assembly, or could it be some thing else?
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I just went into my garage and noticed pieces of my rear coil spring on the ground. 2000 Chevy Malibu LS. Question is, do I have to replace both rear coil springs? They seem to sell them in pairs.
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I have a 2000 F150 with 4.6l triton 125k miles. i have a bad miss ONLY between 1500 and 2000 rpm. This will happen in any gear and in neutral, but only between those rpm's. seems to happen more constant in warm weather. This miss is so bad it feels like the transmission is going to fall out. but since it does it in neutral i doubt tranny problems. things I've replaced: fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter, crankshaft pos. camshaft pos, TPI, MAF, spark plugs, Ignition coils ( all 8) cleaned throttle body ( found 1 EGR port clogged completely )..
I had a couple codes but nothing constant. Been working on this for about 1 year. Codes p0320 (ignition speed input error) p0262 (injector circuit high cylinder #1). my only question here is...... What would only make this dang engine miss between 1500 and 2000 rpm. motor runs perfect thru all other ranges. idle... high speed.. and even throttling through this bad range is ok.. but when stabilizing between 1500 and 2000 starts jerking and missing like no fuel and no fire. i have put in superchip program couple years ago and it ran fine for about 1 year, then this trouble started... I have put back to stock program but still trouble.
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I now have a new amp, the remote range fix, alignment since Egg pulls slightly to right and the steering wheel is off center. But they were totally clueless about the stepper motor issue/transfer case control module, and after going through all the printouts, they know about it now!
And I had my first oil change in 8 months at 2200 miles.. My question: How is the stepper motor replaced?
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I have had my 91 ST for about 6 years. Bought it with 55k miles on it and the motor blew up on me at 165k. I had the motor replaced and when I got it back one of the headlights was out (low beams). I replaced that and got nothing, replaced the other one and still nothing. Even tried swapping bulbs around and no luck. Checked fuses and all look fine.
Talking with my mechanic who did the engine work about this and he started thinking it might be the dimmer switch. I ended up getting one and replaced it, moving one wire at a time off the old one to the wiring connector. Got done and nothing still. Now my Hi-beam indicator doesn't come on either. He is looking at this again and thinks the switch might be bad but can't confirm the wiring either. The diagram he has from work shows all the wires being different colors from any of the wires in the connector, even from other pieces.
Looking for any diagram that would tell us what wire pins from the dimmer switch and other parts of the combination switch go into the connector block under the steering column.
I really need this car back soon. Having to drive my Silverado 1500 crew cab to work and that is a 90 mile round trip every day. Want my 35+mpg Celica back.
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