Ram / SRT10 :: 1999 Dodge Battery Dying Constantly - All The Gauges On Dash Go To 0
Jul 1, 2014
So, about 6 months ago, I bought a 1999 Dodge Ram just to keep around the house to do odd and ends jobs. Not a daily driver. I might have a need for it every few months. Well, a few months ago, I went to start it and the battery was dead. I have a battery charger that tests the battery. It said the battery was bad. So, I bought a new battery. A few days ago, I went to start it... again with the new battery, it was dead.
Put the charger on it and it said again that there was a shorted cell in it. So, I returned that one under warranty. Now went to start it, dead again (a week later.) So, I guess it's obvious it's not a bad battery (or at least the bad batteries are a cause of something else wrong.) I'm guessing there's a slow drain somewhere in the truck. How to find it?
I don't know if this has anything to do with it... Ever since I've owned it, every once in a while when driving the truck, all the gauges on the dash go to 0. Then it will just randomly start working again. Don't know if that has anything to do with the battery dying problem.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L. My problem is it will not idle until the engine is fully warmed up. When I first start it, I need to keep my foot on the gas, if I let it go it dies.
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While driving home after replacing a dead battery, clearly I didn't tighten the negative cable enough as it popped off while I was driving (I only found this out after I got home though). But even after popping off, the truck kept going, albeit with the battery gauge maxed out and the dashboard/headlights flickering. I turned off what I could (it was night, so I needed headlights!), but it still accelerated well, and there were no noticeable performance issues at all. When I got home, I tightened the cable, started it up again just fine, ran it for a minute, then turned it off and restarted it fine again with no problems.
My concern is: am I looking at serious electrical issues long term, or should I be ok? I'm just trying to make sure that driving without a negative cable for less than a mile doesn't fry certain parts of the car, and end up causing big issues down the road. (Truck is a 2000 dodge dakota slt)
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Battery has died..... tried charging it and my amperage is spiking like crazy and wont stop. Prior to all of this my dash lights and gauges were fluctuating at best non responsive at worst. I believed that i had a short in my light switch but with it removed my problems are still consistent my battery terminals are fine, and my battery cables are in good condition. I do not know where the short could be ( i know there are thousands of locations).
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All dash lights and gauges went crazy with a picture of battery in screen and then stopped working for a few miles before working again. I was cruising @65 and this happened and downshifted to 2nd then quickly to 3rd and wouldn't shift again. Stuck in 3rd gear.
Had it scanned and got
P0740
P0753
P0758
P0785
All shift solenoids. Would I just buy a new valve body with new solenoids?
I would occasionally have the gauges go crazy and battery light go on but would go away and not have any codes stored. It would only do it towing and always thought it was a ground issue with th
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I've got a1994 dodge ram 1500 with a 318 cam bearings are good new oil pump new oil pump drive pin getting oil to the filter and that's as far as it gets no oil pressure and no oil to the top end? Me and a couple engine builders are stumped!
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My Uncle has a 2001 Dodge Ram. He has bled the lines and the calipers have released. But still ABS light will not go out?
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I have a 1998 dodge ram 1500 5.9 the ac blows hot I've replaced the ac compressor the evaporator and the accumulator I even did a ac vacuum on the lines their are no leaks.
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This is on a 2001 golf, 5 speed, ALH.
Just went for a drive the other day and the ABS light started to flicker on, and then it was accompanied by 3 loud beeps, which I understand is the ABS warning.
Then the gauges all died like I turned the car off, but the engine was still running. No limp mode, no stumbling, nothing.
The needles then bounce back to where they should be, and various lights on the dash flicker, oil pressure, battery, etc. Not any pattern to them, they all just kind of blink on and off randomly. Then it will stop and run fine for 20-30 minutes (longest I have driven it like this)
Sometimes when I put the key in the on position before starting it, the gauges will do the same thing, without the beeping, and it is like I am cylcing the key on and off several times, needles on the fuel and temp gauge bounce between zero and their actual reading (other gauges don't move because I'm at zero rpm and zero mph)
I have replaced fuses 11 and 15, checked battery voltage with the car off, idling and at 2000 rpm, 12.3 volts with the car off, 14.3 with it idling and at 2000 rpm
The cheap code reader at the parts store gave me a P1650 code, which is intermittent communication error on canbus (paraphrasing) which makes sense for the symptoms, but I know on these cars sometimes a totally different system in the car can interfere elsewhere.
I am going to check/clean grounds, what else should I be looking for?
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I have a 99 dodge ram i was driving it home the other night and it stalled out on me and will not turn over. When i try to start it it just clicks once and that's it. I just replaced the fuel pump and have already checked the starter, alternator, and battery and have still found nothing.
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty and something keeps draining my battery, I replaced the old one and im having the same problem. What could it be?
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My truck has been sitting more lately, which means up to a week without starting and running. Each time this happens I run into a dead battery. And I mean dead. I've charged it fully and then used the truck no problem.
We did a test where we unhooked the negative terminal wiring clamp and ran a meter to check for amp draw. We did this by touching the meter leads to the negative post clamp (unhooked) and to the negative post on the battery. It gives a reading of ~1.5 amps. Trying to figure out where the drain might be.
Otherwise, we'll jut pull each fuse to see if we find the electrical area drawing the amps.
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2002 Dodge pick up constantly gives me this warning when the park lights are on and then use a turn signal. All lamps do work and the front control module has been changed.
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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
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I have a 2007 6.0 with 260k on it losing gauges and radio intermittently while driving. Lately 2-3 times a day, lasting 3-4 seconds a time.
I have heard it could be the shift lever, instrument cluster, fuses, etc. I have kind of ruled out fuses based on the behavior of the failure.
Looking for a second opinion before I start taking the dash apart or send it in. The truck just can't be down for a long time right now.
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03 f 250 super duty, my battery light came on and when I accelerate my dash gauges shut down and radio turns off, if I idle or stay under twenty MPH, everything works fine. Battery and alternator test good, lights never dim, any thoughts
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I have a '92 Dodge B250 Van named Lucy. she has less than 90,000 miles on her. I don't drive much.), but I'm starting to lose hope of fixing her problem. The problem is that the engine keeps dying, and nobody seems to be able to figure out what's causing it. It almost always happens when I'm sitting at, speeding up from or slowing down to a red light, curve, intersection or stop sign. Sometimes she'll die when I first crank her and am sitting in park, and sometimes she'll die when I'm sitting on the brake in line at a restaraunt. Sometimes she'll start immediately back up, and sometimes she takes a few minutes to turn back over. Sometimes she'll die once or twice a week, sometimes she'll go a couple of weeks between episodes.
Nobody can zero in on the problem because she NEVER does it when at the shop. She once died as I was pulling into the garage bay, but not while they were looking at her. So far I have had a new fuel pump and distributor put in, with each doing nothing more than costing me lots of money and getting my hopes up when it takes a few days after leaving the garage for her to die.
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My 01 Dodge Intrepid has a year old rebuilt engine and a yr. old master computer. Past two months, just dies while driving. Try to start and just turns over and over and over. Once it sits for two days, it will start right up first try. Twice it has died at the same spot on the highway entrance ramp! Seems like a clogged fuel filter but shop says there is plenty of fuel and good pressure. They think it is the computer and needs to be "flashed" at a dealer. I smell oil burning on the engine and the oil light keeps coming on but the oil was just changed and is still full and clean? (The first time it went in for this problem the guy just replaced a relay--doesn't show any codes).
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1974 74 Dodge V8 360 ... So it's a carburetor. Starts up cold first thing in the morning no problem whatsoever. Choke plate nice and closed, idle screw on the highest step on the ladder, good vacuum, and all of that.
Once the engine warms up, and the choke plate slowly opens up to let more air in, idle and vacuum decrease, and when I hit the gas and idle screw drops down off to the lowest step, the engine dies.
Where should I start?
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My 2000 Dodge Grand caravan loses its gauges every so often. engine light comes on as well as ABS...
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My 98 dodge ram 2500 was running and now the gauges don't work and the fuel pump isn't working either, I have checked and replaced fuses and relays with no luck ...
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