I've got a1994 dodge ram 1500 with a 318 cam bearings are good new oil pump new oil pump drive pin getting oil to the filter and that's as far as it gets no oil pressure and no oil to the top end? Me and a couple engine builders are stumped!
View 1 RepliesJust got a 35 on my check engine light. From the list of codes this has to do with a radiator fan control, but the fan is not electric. It's a 1994 Ram with 5.2L 318 engine. I'm confused, what does this mean?
View 7 RepliesMy Uncle has a 2001 Dodge Ram. He has bled the lines and the calipers have released. But still ABS light will not go out?
View 10 RepliesI have a 1998 dodge ram 1500 5.9 the ac blows hot I've replaced the ac compressor the evaporator and the accumulator I even did a ac vacuum on the lines their are no leaks.
View 13 RepliesI have a 99 dodge ram i was driving it home the other night and it stalled out on me and will not turn over. When i try to start it it just clicks once and that's it. I just replaced the fuel pump and have already checked the starter, alternator, and battery and have still found nothing.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L. My problem is it will not idle until the engine is fully warmed up. When I first start it, I need to keep my foot on the gas, if I let it go it dies.
View 1 RepliesI Have A 2001 Ram 1500 With The 318 5.2 Engine , Oil Pressure Jumps From 40 To 0 For No Apparent Reason, And Then Lifters Began To Tick. Turn Off Truck And Recrank Oil Pressure Returns To 40 Lbs, Rev Up Engine To 2000 Rpm Or Better And Pressure Goes To 0 Instantly. I Have Replaced Sending Unit, Replaced Oil Pump And Pickup, Changed Oil And Filter Using Dodge Filter, Removed Valve Covers And Intake Cleaned Out All Sludge, Tried 3 Different weights Of Oil, Cleaned Oil Passages, Inspected Oil pump Drive Shaft, Pulled Rear Main Cap And Inspected Bearing , Looked Good, Changed Oil And Filter 3 Times , Engine Is Very Clean. Engine Never Has Low Oil Pressure Either 0 Or 40 Lbs Never 10 Or 20. I Have Heard Others Describe This But Never Heard The Answer . Truck Has 70,000 Miles ,runs And Sounds Perfect When Oil Pressure Is At40. It Can Idle At 40 Lbs Hot, Which Leads Me To Believe Bearing Clearances Are Fine.
View 14 RepliesSo, about 6 months ago, I bought a 1999 Dodge Ram just to keep around the house to do odd and ends jobs. Not a daily driver. I might have a need for it every few months. Well, a few months ago, I went to start it and the battery was dead. I have a battery charger that tests the battery. It said the battery was bad. So, I bought a new battery. A few days ago, I went to start it... again with the new battery, it was dead.
Put the charger on it and it said again that there was a shorted cell in it. So, I returned that one under warranty. Now went to start it, dead again (a week later.) So, I guess it's obvious it's not a bad battery (or at least the bad batteries are a cause of something else wrong.) I'm guessing there's a slow drain somewhere in the truck. How to find it?
I don't know if this has anything to do with it... Ever since I've owned it, every once in a while when driving the truck, all the gauges on the dash go to 0. Then it will just randomly start working again. Don't know if that has anything to do with the battery dying problem.
2002 Dodge pick up constantly gives me this warning when the park lights are on and then use a turn signal. All lamps do work and the front control module has been changed.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1994 Dodge Spirit, with 142k miles on it. Twice in recent months it has has unexplained stalling fits. In December, it would stall whenever I came to a stop. I took it into the shop, but they couldn't replicate it and couldn't find anything wrong. Yesterday, it stalled while I was driving, and would then immediately stall when I restarted the car. The shop managed to replicate the stalling once, but after a two hour inspection still couldn't find out what was wrong; they checked the vacuums.
View 7 RepliesOn my way home from work, after driving about 45 minutes, I stopped at the Post Office. On the way out I noticed that coolant was leaking. I was able to make it home without overheating. My guess was either the water pump or a hose.
This morning I physically checked the hoses and they seemed fine. I filled the radiator with water and started the van and let it run until it got hot. I watched to see if I could tell where the leak came from. I could not get it to leak, after 15 minutes I gave up. I know it was leaking yesterday, not only did I see green coolant, the radiator was low on coolant.
What should I do to further diagnose the problem?
Only started happening within the last month. 1994 V8 Dakota. When its warmer out, half the time I turn the key and nothing happens, doesn't even crank over, but if I tap the gas then turn the key, it starts right up. What this could be?
View 2 RepliesLast weekend, the car wouldn't start after sitting for a few hours. After about 20 minutes it finally started. It has started and ran fine up until today. Same thing, it was parked for a while and wouldn't start. Then it did start, ran horribly, then died when it was put into gear. Then it started and ran just fine, my friend moved the car, parked it and turned it off and of course it wouldn't start after that.
I've done a lot of work to this car myself, including entire tune up, fuel filter, cam AND crank sensors (notorious problems on these cars), ignition switch, oxygen sensors, several other things in the past year or so. My only hunch is that it might be the auto shut down relay, but I'm not with the car so I can't test that. We had fuel pressure at the test port the first time this happened, so I wasn't really thinking it could be a fuel pump issue, but with over 210,000 miles anything is possible. Also, it sometimes dies when the car comes to a stop with the A/C on...but this doesn't happen very often.
I have a 1994 dodge ram reg cab short bed 2 wheel dr with a 5.2. When i first start the truck in the morning or after it has set for 5 or 6 hours it spits sputters and pops and backfires tries to die and is undrivable for about 15 mins. then its like you flip a switch and it just smooths out and runs great you can cut it off for 2 or 3 hours and it still starts and runs fine! Then the real funny part is after it smoothes out it runs great until i turn left it dies i can turn right and it's fine going around a sharp curve or if i turn hard into a parking place it will just die! i have replaced the pickup coil, dis cap, rotor button, wires and wrought them the specified way, plugs gaped at .035, not platinum, coolant temp sensor, and throttle positon sensor! there is no check engine light on the stored codes are 12 and 37. i am at a loss. This truck has no OBD so i cant see what is happing when it's acting up! i hope this is enough info.
View 5 Repliesthe headlights stopped working on my 94 shadow. I replaced the headlight switch (on the dash, not the multi switch on the steering column) and they worked again... until I was about 15 minutes into a 30 minute drive @ 2 AM. The lights went out (headlights, dash lights, everything) and came right back on. They flickered several more times and after I move the switched, stay on for the remainder of the drive. i figured there was just a bad spot in the switch (it seemed dependent on the dimmer position at first). It turns out that it seems to do this at the same point in the drive every night independent of the switch position, speed, engine revs, bumps. the only thing that seems to make a difference is the time before flickering is shorter when I use my brights. I should also point out that my speedo has always stopped working @ about the same time frame if I have the headlights & vent fan both on....
View 1 RepliesWhen my truck is cold, I have to turn the key two or three times to get it to start. By that I mean I turn the key, turn it all the way off, and turn it again until the engine starts. The first two times, it doesn't crank or make any noise at all, but the radio and dashboard lights come on. I got the truck in May and it hasn't done this all summer.Also, if it idles at a red light when it is cold, it will stop running and I have the same problem as above when I try to re-start it.There is also a smell of burning rubber in the cab once it has warmed up.
View 1 RepliesI recently tried to recharge my 1994 Saturn SW2 air conditioning. The system took the charge fine, nice cool air again. Yea! On disconnecting the adapter, I heard the sound of escaping gas. I was able to place my thumb over the port and block the leak, tried reattaching adapter and removing several times, but the valve will not fully seal. Placing the cap back on the port with a small piece of plastic food wrap (hi tech) stopped the sound, but obviously not the leak entirely. A couple of weeks and the a/c is back to blowing hot air.
Is there any way to encourage the valve to seal? Should I try the variety of refrigerant that seals leaks? Is there a better choice for blocking the leak than food wrap? If it comes to it, replacing the low pressure line, is that something a person who knows how to use a wrench but not much more can do?
I have a 1994 Dodge RAM 1500, v8, 5.2 liter truck. A few months ago, I noticed that when it's at normal temperature, it would not crank unless I floored the accelerator. Once it cranked, it was hard to keep it idling at a constant RPM. I have to rev it up a lot to finally get it to idle by itself or to put it in Drive to move. Once it's moving, everything seems pretty good. If I stop and change gears (Park, for example), it will stall. I have also noticed this happening if I'm in Park, then turn on the air conditioning putting a load on the engine, it will stall.
When the engine is cold (sitting for several hours), it cranks fine and runs fine.
I have replaced the idle air control (IAC) valve, the throttle position sensor, the MAP sensor, the Crank sensor between the motor and the transmission (what a pain to replace), the O2 sensor upstream of the catalytic converter, and the computer (with a used one from a salvage yard. And, I had a mechanic check out the distributor cap and it's internals and do whatever he did.
I did read somewhere that the coolant temperature sensor may be an issue?
My daughter has a 94 XLT with 4 liter OHV. This the first time I have noticed a vehicle to have both an oil light and a pressure gauge. Periodically the check oil light will come on, but the gauge shows very good pressure. The oil level is full. I'm not sure what to make of this. I know the engine was replaced with a rebuild but no idea how many miles are on it now. Oil looks fairly clean tho it is due for an oil change I think.
View 3 RepliesMy dodge spirit has 80,000 miles on it. i love this little car, however, yesterday for some reason while driving my radiator reservoir started to overflow. I didn't notice at the time, but when i got home there was water in the engine compartment and it was obvious that it had come from the reservoir. This morning I went out to drive the car and at first the engine shook a little but then started running smoothly, when I backed out i noticed a rather large cloud of white smoke (water in the engine) I immediately turned off the car. I have a feeling I will need to rebuild this car's engine. What I should expect to pay for this repair?
View 6 RepliesMy oil pressure gauge does not work. I was told that it's most likely the sensor. Where would I find this to change it out?
View 3 Replies