Ram / SRT10 :: 03 Hemi - Clicking / Grinding Noise In 4WD
Oct 16, 2014
I recently bought an 03 Hemi Ram 4x4 and it has a nasty clicking/grinding type noise in 4wd when turning the steering wheel. If going straight it's fine. The driver side cv joint was bad, so I replaced both sides thinking this would stop the noise, but it didn't. Not sure if this is related, but when driving down the road in 2wd, it sounds like I'm dragging a chain underneath the truck. It's not real loud, but I can here it.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 with a 2010 crate 5.7 hemi in it.
Recently, I would go to start the truck, and it would just crank and not start, and the ETC light would come on. I'm able to cycle the key to off, then start it again when I give it gas. I try to clean the throttle body regularly, but it was clean today when I checked it. Sometimes it will start, and immediately the ETC light will come on, and the engine will miss very badly. If I plug a scanner into the truck when the light comes on, no codes are present. What may be causing this?
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I've just started noticing a "clicking/ grinding/ creaking" when I turn my wheel. It makes the noise if I'm parked, or driving slowly. I can feel it in the steering wheel, and hear it in the cabin, but can't hear anything when I'm under the car.
It sounds like 'two pieces of rubber binding on each other', is the best I can describe it. I THINK its coming from the driver's side. I've considered: strut mounts shifting, CV joints, something in the steering column, Tie rods, power steering pump...
Everything is tight on the wheel when I try to move it by hand (on jacks), and no rips/ tears in any boots.
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I have a 98 Dodge Ram with the 5.9L. At speeds around 55-65 mph I get a vibration and noise coming from somewhere under the hood. It's not a very loud vibration or noise, but enough to hear. This only happens when I am going the said speed and SLIGHTLY pressing on the accelerator. It doesn't happen if I am going the speed and not pressing on the accelerator, or have my foot in the pedal. It happens at the speed with apprx. 1/4" to 1" of acceleration There are no fault codes and no loss of power issues to speak of. The truck only has 69,000 miles on it and runs great, but the vibration and noise is starting to get on my nerves.
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I have a 06' JGC with the 5.7L Hemi w/80k and about a month ago I noticed a little smoke under the hood after driving, I found an oil leak and it's running down the passenger side of the rear main seal but the leak is above the seal. I had the shop put die in it and they dont know for sure but they belive it is the head gasket. There is no water in the oil but they said that doesnt matter. Apparently the heads cant be resurfaced on hemi's but they have to be checked to make sure they are in spec.
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I own a jeep wrangler with a 7.2 hemi engine. Manual transmission. When driving and want to stop on a traffic light. The rpm will stay at 2000 rpm until complete stop and then it goes down to 850 rpm.
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I have a 2001 ram 1500 4x4. For the past 2 weeks, when I touch the brake pedal I can hearing a ticking noise coming from the front driverside wheel. The ticking frequency is speed dependent. I had the brakes replaced, and the shop could not find the ticking noise. The truck performs get and there are no braking problems other than the ticking sound, but now for the strange part...
My abs and brake light are now coming on. However, as soon as my abs and brake light come on, usually on the freeway around 65mph, the ticking noise from braking is gone. So with no abs and brake light, brand new brakes tick at the slightest touch of the brake pedal, with the ticking freq. equal to wheel revs.
With abs and brake light on, no ticking. Plus the shop said that I only have abs in the rear.
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As the title states, I've having a problem with my civic. It makes this clicking/grinding noise during 4 separate occasions:
1) turning to the right
2) going in reverse
3) applying the brakes <30 MPH
4) engine braking- I hear a grinding at higher speeds when I let off the accelerator.
2004 Honda Civic EX, 5 sp MT, 1.7 L, ~172k miles. I'm not a mechanic, but do almost all my maintenance at our hobby shop on base.
I first noticed this noise only when applying brakes approaching a stop sign. I checked my pads and rotors and they looked good. The noise is coming from the front drivers side of the car. Pulled the pads off and they appeared to be wearing differently (only slightly). Regardless, I replaced the pads and rotors. The problem persisted. I checked the wheels for play to see if it was a wheel bearing, but there is no play.
Then, I noticed the sound when going in reverse and turning to the right. All information I found pointed to a faulty CV axle. From the outside, the boots were normal. No tears, no grease. It didn't make any specific noise when turned, but oh well. I replaced both of them today. Replaced the transmission fluid with genuine Honda. Pulled out of the parking lot of the hobby shop and the noise persisted.
Ball joints appear to be fine, wheel bearings appear to be fine. The guys at the shop suggested maybe it was the caliper not engaging correctly; perhaps air in the lines. Tomorrow I'm going to bleed the brake lines and see if that works. Otherwise, when else would cause this noise? Video attached....
There are 3 parts to the video. 1 is the last few seconds of me slowing down from an on ramp. I click the turn signal apply the brakes and you hear the noise. The next section is again slowing down at a stop sign. The last section is backing up out of a parking spot.
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I recently noticed my truck (2006 f250 v8) making some clicking noises on really sharp turns and also horrible grinding when stopping (like the brake pads were shot).
I replaced the pads a couple years ago, so I didn't then they were bad, but I took a look tonight. What I found was a couple of seals blown on both sides!
What these are and how this might have happened? They look the same on both sides. How do I replace them?
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I've got a1994 dodge ram 1500 with a 318 cam bearings are good new oil pump new oil pump drive pin getting oil to the filter and that's as far as it gets no oil pressure and no oil to the top end? Me and a couple engine builders are stumped!
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My Uncle has a 2001 Dodge Ram. He has bled the lines and the calipers have released. But still ABS light will not go out?
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I have an 03 Ram 1500 that quit blowing hot air. I have heard of doors not opening to divert the air to the heater core. Heater hoses are both hot, so I'm pretty sure the water is going where it's supposed to, just not the air.
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I was driving my truck and then started binging and I looked at dash and the air bag light lit up, what does this mean what would be wrong?
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While going from 45 to 50 MPH, there is a shaking in the front end. Also, above 60 MPH the shaking starts again, but it's more of a rougher vibration. Both u-joints were replaced less than 2 months ago as well as both hub bearings. Tires are rough with only the front left one having decent tread, and I do not remember the last time the tires were balanced. Could this be it? I'm about to put 35 inch toyo mt's and 20x10 fuel maverick rims on it, could new tires fix this problem? Or maybe it could be tire pressure or camber?
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I have a 1998 dodge ram 1500 5.9 the ac blows hot I've replaced the ac compressor the evaporator and the accumulator I even did a ac vacuum on the lines their are no leaks.
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Turn the key, engine won't turn over, straight hook up starter with battery cables, starter spins engine won't turn, all lights come on on instrument panel, checked all fuses, relay, etc..solenoid won't kick gear into flywheel.
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I have a 99 dodge ram i was driving it home the other night and it stalled out on me and will not turn over. When i try to start it it just clicks once and that's it. I just replaced the fuel pump and have already checked the starter, alternator, and battery and have still found nothing.
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98 1500 4x4 quad, 5.2.. Did run fine. Go out to start wont start just clicks once. Replaced starter and the battery. Still only clicks once. checked voltage across terminals to the grounds. swapped relays around still one click. Going to check in the morning make sure it didn't seize.
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I Have A 2001 Ram 1500 With The 318 5.2 Engine , Oil Pressure Jumps From 40 To 0 For No Apparent Reason, And Then Lifters Began To Tick. Turn Off Truck And Recrank Oil Pressure Returns To 40 Lbs, Rev Up Engine To 2000 Rpm Or Better And Pressure Goes To 0 Instantly. I Have Replaced Sending Unit, Replaced Oil Pump And Pickup, Changed Oil And Filter Using Dodge Filter, Removed Valve Covers And Intake Cleaned Out All Sludge, Tried 3 Different weights Of Oil, Cleaned Oil Passages, Inspected Oil pump Drive Shaft, Pulled Rear Main Cap And Inspected Bearing , Looked Good, Changed Oil And Filter 3 Times , Engine Is Very Clean. Engine Never Has Low Oil Pressure Either 0 Or 40 Lbs Never 10 Or 20. I Have Heard Others Describe This But Never Heard The Answer . Truck Has 70,000 Miles ,runs And Sounds Perfect When Oil Pressure Is At40. It Can Idle At 40 Lbs Hot, Which Leads Me To Believe Bearing Clearances Are Fine.
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I have a 1996 Ram with the V10 that only has 10,000 miles since it was replaced by Dodge. 7 years has passed since that shortblock warranty job. It now has a tick/knock that I cant seem to locate? I changed the lifters and one push rod since is was a little bent and put it all back together. Still getting the same thing - nothing has changed ...
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Truck in question has 175k, is the TBI version (fuel injected carburetor design), has had the plugs cap and rotor replaced fairly recently.
When cold, it starts and runs normally. As it warms (after around 20 miles) it starts running rough, then after getting warmer/full operating temp, it will stall at stop signs and runs very rich - so rich you can smell the unburned fuel. At this point it is also difficult to start and requires adding some gas pedal.
I am thinking a vacuum issue, or something that is not allowing it to transition from the warm up cycle to normal cycle.
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