Prius V :: Won't Turn On - Brakes Feels Extremely Hard
Sep 1, 2014
This morning when trying to leave for work, my prius refused to turn on. When you press the brake so you can press the start button, the brake feels extremely hard, almost like it doesn't want you to press it. The light on the start button becomes orange after a pressing the button once. And on the dashboard screen (I don't know what call it on a Prius) in the very bottom right corner, a red notifications light flashes very quickly, so quickly that is hard to tell what it is, but by staring at it for like 30 seconds it looks like the symbol of a car with a lock attached to it. I may be wrong though. My Prius v is a 2012 model, trim three, and it has a little over 60,000 miles on it. I also have a prepaid maintenance through the dealership. I don't even know where to start.
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I have a 1.8 02 Passat. On cold mornings (25 or below) the brakes are extremely hard. When it warms up outside they are fine. No one seems to know the problem.
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Last night at 2am and it was about 10 degrees out (I say the temp because it might matter?) I started my car, let it warm up to normal running standard and backed up. My car moved backwards but the wheel would not turn at all. I pull forward into my parking spot and noticed that the wheel is extremely hard to turn left or right... almost impossible.
I check under the hood and noticed that my car was leaking something onto the group but it was dark and I couldn't quite see what it was.
Checked this morning and I found that my power steering fluid was completely empty. I had a half bottle in my trunk and put it in my car, then turned my car on. All of a sudden I noticed that the fluid is leaking onto the ground. Not really leak, more like a slow/medium pour and the wheel still wouldn't not move.
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My steering got real "heavy" almost as if I had no power steering so I replaced the power steering pump. The steering got a little easier but is still very stiff. It's extremely hard to turn at low speed just off idle...I have to rev the engine a bit to get it to turn.This is on my 1999 7.3 f350...I've ran 33" and 35" tires on it it's whole life and this is the first PS pump I've replaced since 1999...never replaced the steering box.
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My 2009 Pkg 6 just started having VERY touchy brakes last night. It's almost as if there is a point where the brakes just lock up instead of a gradual regen, then gradual braking. My wife has been the primary driver for the last few days and she said the traction control light flashes briefly for yesterday but the brakes seemed fine until I drove it last night.
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The steering in my '12 feels extremely loose, at highway speeds just a minor twitch on the steering wheel sends me right or left.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Tahoe 4WD 5.7L 2 door. I recently had both my upper and lower ball joints replaced along with an alignment. Recently, I noticed I have an extremely shaky wheel and it feels like the front of the vehicle is just rattling. I never had this problem in the past. It seems to do it going between 30-55 mph. Also, on back country roads where they are bumpy. Never happens on the highway.
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My 2007 Prius brakes extremely hard at low speed (while I am applying the same amount of pressure). While decelerating, I let the regen braking do most of the work until I get to about 10mph, then I press the brake so I will have equal pressure until I stop. When I get to about 5mph I feel almost a lunge where the brakes aren't working as hard and then the brakes take hold extremely hard. My prius has been doing this for awhile not depending on the weather, but I finally noticed it worse than normal yesterday when it was raining and my car braked hard and actually skid and the traction control light came on.
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Could my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
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Just to start off im new to the camry family.I have a 2007 camry se. Well the the problem I am having is when i make a sharp turn or hit on the brakes hard my oil light flashes. Didn't know if this is a big problem or something small. the light flashes and goes rite back off.
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so all of a sudden when I turn the key it seems to have an extremely long crank to turn over, almost like im holding it down to long, i can turn it quick and let it go and it will catch, hold it longer than normal and let it go and it will still catch...took it to the dealer and had them scan the car but there are no codes/faults coming up......its been doing it for a week now and today it won't start at all, it just keeps on cranking but won't turn over but yet I still have codes or faults....battery is good cuz I had it tested as well.
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Having an issue with my brake pedal. When the car sits for long periods of time, usually overnight, the brake pedal is extremely hard to depress. I have to really press down hard in order to start the ignition. Took it into my dealership, and they actually said there was a TSB issued for something to do with the brakes. Well, evidently, they fixed it, but the issue came back almost immediately, only this time it's worse. The brake pedal firms up after 3-4 hours of sitting.
Brakes feel fine once the ignition is turned on. I was told there's no issue with driving it, but I'm not so sure I trust what I was told.
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2000 toyota corolla feels like it has no brakesI had the brake master cylinder replaced a few months ago - so that's not itThe mechanic also replaced the shoes - so that's not itAfter I told him it still feels like the is low etc. he adjusted them or something - so that's not itIt still feels the sameWhat should I do?
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I have a 2011 GTI with ~23k miles on it, manual trans. Bought it CPO this year. Recently, I have had an extremely hard time getting the car into either reverse or first. It only happens randomly. It often takes a few times to finally get it to click. Other times I think it is in gear only to let off the clutch and hear the gears grind.
Next, when it is cold, it is squeaking when I lift off the clutch just before the gear engages. Again, it is totally random. It may go an entire week without doing it, and then one day start.
I have read all over these forums that this is likely a linkage issue with the difficulty shifting and a TOB issue with the squeaking on the clutch liftoff.
I am taking the car into the dealer tomorrow (still under CPO warranty). I called a local, and extremely well respected, Euro repair shop and he said it sounded like a classic pilot brushing problem. When I looked online, it says that the manual GTIs don't have pilot brushings... Is this correct?
Additionally, what do I need to expect from the dealer? I've read horror stories about the dealers tearing down the clutch (~10hr job) to get inside and replace something only to say that there is "wear and tear" and that the job isn't covered under warranty. Additionally, I know I won't be able to replicate the sound tomorrow when I bring it in. Nor will I be able to replicate the difficulty getting the car into gear. Short of leaving the car with them for 3 weeks and having them try it every few hours, they won't see what I am talking about.
My question at this point is, does a bad TOB cause any long term problems, or is it just an occasional annoyance with the sound? And what specifically should I tell the dealer about the difficulty shifting to get them to do something about it?
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I have a 2010 Chevy 1500 extended cab. For a few years it was a daily driver. It has 54000 miles. For the last 1.5 years I have been driving a company vehicle so my truck sits a lot and usually only gets driven once a week when I'm off running errands and such. Recently if I drive it just around town a few miles here and there, everything is fine. But if I drive it to a farther location say 20-30 minutes away the truck will start to shift extremely hard into second gear from first to second. The first time it happened I though I got rear ended by another car only to look around and no one was behind me. I wouldnt think the trans. would be going out at 54000 miles.
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2014 Passat... I've got a little over 2,000 miles on mine now and I really do like the car. However, one thing that is really bothersome to me is----the brakes.
I'm not sure if it is specific to my car or to the passat in general. Here's the issue:
When applying the brakes, the pedal feels almost loose, as though the is no pressure on it, but once you push the pedal down far enough the brakes come on heavy, hard and fast. It's like turning on a light switch.
I am wondering if this is an adjustment that I can have done at the dealer to put more feel into the brakes or if this is just something that we all have to live with, of if maybe there could be something wrong with the brakes on my car.
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2000 f250 with v10, got home from work today, then short time later we were going out again and my steering was extremely loose. Basically you could swing the wheel and it spins around. Power steering fluid was empty and I refilled it but still the same problem. Is there possibility that I'm just not using a thick enough power steering fluid?
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I replaced the thermostat and coolant now the car acts like it's running on 4 cylinders. It's a 1992 3.1. The car ran fine before I just can't figure out what I did. Its real hard starting ,runs extremely rough. And the cooling fans are coming on when cold. Disconnected the battery to to reset the computer. pulled the codes got 45 (rich).
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For longer than I'd like to reveal, my Forester has shifted extremely hard. This happens only when the engine is cold and disappears entirely once it heats up. Also, the RPMs go high just before the shift. When it does shift, it feels as if the engine is going to self-destruct from the sound and rough feeling --as if the entire engine or at least some part of it were going to fall to the ground. After it shifts, it feels as if the car shoots forward like a rocket. The Subaru dealer changed the transmission fluid and reset the computer. The problem persists.
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I have a 2006 Chevy 2500HD with about 180000 miles. All of a sudden the transmission is shifting extremely hard at times. It doesn't shift this way all the time. What could be causing this problem? It doesn't have to be under hard acceleration either when it does shift hard. It sometimes is during hard accelerating and sometimes it is under very little acceleration, but as I said it doesn't do it every time. When it does shift hard, it seems to do it in all gears.
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Truck runs great if I get it started. Here are symptoms.
-Extremely hard to start when engine is cold
- It will start fairly quick if plugged in all night
- After running there is no issues with starting unless sits over night
- Batteries good and engine cranks fast
- Tests and parts I have replaced
- Replaced GPM (Glow Plug Module) I do not have the relay as most seem to have on their engines. I did replace this unit.
- Replaced Glow plugs all 8 this morning. Since they where cheap enough it did not hurt the wallet.
- Replaced crank position sensor. Tach moves when engine is cranking.
- Checked the HPOR and it has oil about 1/2" from top.
Now what is left to check besides doing a buzz test to rule out injectors? Also if truck runs fine and does not run rough could injectors still be bad?
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