Prius V :: While Driving Seat Belts Pulled Very Tight / Brakes Slammed On
Mar 16, 2016
Today I was on a highway traveling at 60 miles an hour. There were no cars in front or on either side and nothing on the road. My foot was on the accelerator and not on the brake. Suddenly the seat belts pulled very tight (I believe that is called "pre-tensioning") and the brakes slammed on without any input from me. The car rapidly decelerated to about 30 miles an hour. Fortunately there was nobody tailgating me. After that everything seemed OK. My vehicle is a 2013 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon) model 5 which has the technology package.
I took the car to the dealer and they checked the collision avoidance system and said they could not find a problem. The service manager said he has a Camry and it has happened to him once. They had never heard of it happening on a Prius. Apparently Toyota has a bulletin about this for the Camry, but not the Prius. They suggested I turn off the Collision Avoidance System with a switch that is under the dash.
I am not sure whether to turn it off because if I do I lose the adaptive cruise control and collision avoidance, If I leave it on this can happen again possibly causing an accident.
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I have to say that I was very worried when I did this. I downloaded the app, it scanned the car, took me to the Carita pro for 20 dollars link.
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I have an '05 package 2 and I am replacing the steering wheel. I found that I need to disconnect the battery to replace the airbag, I also read that it is a good idea to remove the SRS relay. Which one is the relay under the hood? additionally I am trying to remove the seatbelts to clean them how do you remove the paneling without breaking the plastic?
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Took the car to the dealer, said "just turn off the beeps, all of them." The rep. said come back in an hour. Most of the beeps are off now, but I have an odd pair of problems.
1.) The rear hatch no longer beeps when open, but it also has no longer has the SKS function.
2.) The front seat belts no longer beep, but the front dome light no longer has an on-when-door-is-open function.
3) I'm waiting to see what bizarre side effects come from the single reverse beep.
The rep. says these are side effects from killing the beeps, that the nuisance beeps are tied to these two functions and that the only way to restore them is to bring back the beeps. He claims that the front beeps & dome light are triggered by a sensor inside the door that is part of the door latch, that when this sensor is disabled all its functions stop. I think he said it's the same problem with the rear hatch and its SKS.
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2002 Diamante, Passenger side seatbelt became stuck and started smoking after the door was "slammed" shut. Need to know if this can be fixed or am I going to have to ride in the back seat?
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So the other day I slammed on the brakes when traffic came to a halt on the highway. As I slammed down on the pedal, all the sudden the pedal lost pressure and went nearly to the floor, but firmed up just before bottoming out. My brake and ABS lights went on as well. Someone told me there is some kind of failsafe that blocks off the line if it ruptures, so maybe thats what happened? The brakes seem to work fine and are not loosing any more fluid, but the warning lights remain and the taillights do not light up.
So when I got home I took a look. On the fender side under the fuse box there was a lot of brake fluid, and looked like the line going from the master cylinder down to some kind of module (abs thingy?) below it was all rusted.
Today I replaced the line, and bleed the rear brakes. There did appear to be a ponhole in it, right where it would have been spraying the fender side where I saw all the fluid. The pedal is very firm right from the get go and brakes seem to be working fine. However the brake and ABS light remain, and my brake lights still dont come on when I press the pedal. Do I still have a leak somewhere or is there something else I have to do to clear the warnings and get my lights back?
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I removed the front seat belts from the seat base on my 1987, 740 to remove the front seats for cleaning and fabric repair. When I went to install the reel that attaches to the seats, they would not unwind.
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I was installing the driver's side oem storage drawer and started by removing the 4 bolts that mount the rails to the car. While I was removing the seat rails, my outboard rail somehow slid all the way back and now seems "locked" into position. Basically, the inboard seat rail wants to slide when I lift the lever, however, the outboard seems to be caught and won't move. From the outboard rail perspective, the seat is all the way forward and will not shift back at all. How to deal with this? The pins that move down into the rail to hold the seat in place aren't what is holding it up. My guess is the edge of something in the track is catching.
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The rear seat belts in my wife's 2001 Civic EX are annoying, but I don't know if this is abnormal, and can be fixed, or just something we have to live with. Basically, the seat belts frequently grab you and won't let go, so you can't lean forward, for instance. You have to unlatch them and start over.
When I test the belts without latching them, I pull them out a long way and let them retract over and over, and then at some point they grab and I can't pull them out again without letting them retract all the way back to the beginning. I can hear that the ratchet is engaged when this is happening.
During the time when they do pull out and retract with no problem, if I give a sharp tug, they grab, like they're designed to do, and then let go.
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I guess this feature is standard in newer cars, but how to turn off that annoying beeper for seat belts and keys in the ignition? Perhaps there's a wire that can be cut.
After all, I know enough to buckle my seat belt and feel uncomfortable and unsafe if I do not. I don't need to be beeped at to remind me. Plus, I know when I leave the keys in the ignition and exit the car.
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They work and no problems latching up. But they "lock" up real quick. Kids almost always get locked to the seat.
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The passenger seat belts on my 2011 do not 'give' a little. When someone shifts in their seat, the belt tightens up (allowing little to no movement)...almost to the point of being uncomfortable. Is this normal/expected behavior? Or do I need to have them looked at?
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The seat belts in a Subaru WRX have been replaced with 4 Point Racing Harnesses. The air bag light now stays on. Does this mean the air bags are inoperable or will they still deploy in case of an accident?
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Four or five years ago, our 2001 Toyota Camry (and my wife and I) had the misfortune of being in a T-bone accident when someone unexpectedly pulled a left turn in front of us and gave us no time to stop. We had the car front-end repaired at a collision repair center, and we were good to go, I thought. As I drove away, I noticed the newly replaced seat belts seemed to "lock" in place at times. They did lock at a sudden stop, as expected, but when entering the car and attempting to put on the seat belts, they would sometimes lock and release, causing me a repeated tug-of-war as I attempted to get enough slack to fasten the belt. This occurred on both the driver and passenger front belts.
Needless to say, I returned the car to the shop, and they cheerfully replaced the belts a second time. When I picked up the car, I first tested the belts, which seemed to perform flawlessly, so I drove home. My joy was short-lived, however, because on the way home, the locking problem returned. I returned to the collision repair shop yet again, and they replaced the belts a third time. The shop foreman personally tested the belts to make sure they worked, and he watched as I did the same. However, yet again, on the way home, the belts would lock unexpectedly.
Through much experimentation, I finally realized that if the car was facing any degree of a downward angle, I could pull the belts very easily and smoothly, yet they locked if I jerked the belts hard. This was as expected. If the car was level or facing an upward angle, however, pulling smoothly on the belt would result in them locking. This seemed very odd to me, and I mentioned it to the collision foreman. He immediately called Toyota to ask about it, and they had never heard of such a symptom.
So, for the past five years, I have been enduring the craziness of getting in my car and doing a repeated pull "negotiation" with the seat belt. I have also noticed that when I begin driving forward, if I will apply the brakes gently, both myself and any passenger can then easily pull the belts and fasten them while the gradual braking is occurring. It doesn't seem to be a safety issue because they do lock on a sudden hard stop, but it is counter-intuitive to me that a gradual braking allows the belts to move freely. Is it possible they could have installed the belts upside down or backwards, or something?
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See my sig for truck.
I have 3 kids in the crewcab. 2 are in booster seats, and 1 still riding in a Britax. The 2 in booster seats can buckle their own seat belts in the wife's Odyssey. But they cannot buckle their own in the truck because as they try to push the 2 pieces together, the short 'female' end slides down between the seat and seatback. So I have to buckle them. Every time.
Anything to prevent the female end from sliding down? I'm thinking maybe putting a ~4" long 1-2" diameter piece of tubing around the belts. Something like that.
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My car have sound like motor running during I drive while i turn off the radio and I try to get where is the sound come from it seem like near driver seat, by the ways what is that sound ? it happen around 2 second only and after a while it happen again....
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The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
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my park brake will work when pushed to the floor but when i pull the release lever it will not disengaged.
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I have a 2008 f350, crew cab,6.4L. with 27,173 miles. may have a problem with the steering, seems to be tight when turning from left to right or right to left, doesn't seem to center, if I turn a little to left or right it stays there. I can go in complete a circle. Raised front off ground turns ok no binding, nothing loose on the front end.
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I've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
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I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
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