Prius V :: Using Fan Only With No Heating Or Cooling
May 10, 2013
I would like to be able to use the fan to bring in outside air with no heating or cooling. What I have been doing is turning the temp setting to Low and controlling the Fan Speed manually.
This seems to work unless the outside temp is too low, then it seems to be heating the air a bit, which I don't work. Is there a different way of doing this? I feel like I am missing something.
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The temperature control doesn't change the air temperature on my 94 SL2. If I slide the control all the way to the red, the air blowing out doesn't get any hotter. If I slide it all the way to the blue with the AC button and the recirculating air buttons depressed, it doesn't get any cooler. The blower fan works fine, the AC is charged with refrigerant, the compressor looks like it is working, and all the related relays and fuses seem to be okay. I've taken the radio out and loosened the heat/air control. The cables for the vents and the temperature are both attached. Maybe the temp control cable is broken down the line somewhere.
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I have a 2008 Toyota sienna XLE and just recently I have been unable to change the heating/cooling zones. For instance I can't change it to defrost even if I press the defrost button. Right now it is stuck on vents. It's all electronic controls on my model and even if the display is showing feet or defrost it is still coming from the vents. I live in New Hampshire and on cold snowy days I've got to be able to change which zone I want heat.
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I drive two 1999 Caravans, a base model and a Sport. With both I have a persistent problem with moisture in the heating/cooling system. When I turn it on, it smells and feels moist (not like coolant), heat or A/C, summer or winter. I have pressure tested, no leaks. I have replaced heater cores, o ring seals, checked the condensate drains for blockages, replaced the metal tubes that go through the firewall on one car. There is no moisture coming from the outside. The windshield starts fogging at about 34 degrees and gets so bad when it is colder that the defroster full on with the A/C on cannot completely clear the inside glass. Really cold (for us) 20s and the windshield is so fogged that driving is scary. When I drive into a cold spot in winter, sometimes the whole windshield will fog in a few moments-- that's with the defroster on.
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I just bought a 2006 Lexus GS300 AWD. Bought it with 99k from a older gentleman who seemed like he took really care of the car. Gave me all type of Lexus dealership service receipts. I recently noticed that the driver side seat heating and cooling doesn't work right, passenger seat works fine. I haven't checked the fuses yet just wanted to get some opinions before getting into it.
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2007. Blower motor not working. Replaced 2 fuses for blower motor and relay. Blower motor working. Horrible racket and steam coming from under car when I engaged car. I took the fuses back out. Air conditioner stuck on. I had to take the Compressor fuse out also. Car drives fine just have no heat/air.
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It was the first really cold day since I got my car--40 degrees F. outside. I hit the Auto button and bumped the temperature up to 78 degrees. The A/C light came on. I tried turning the system off and then on (now that the temperature is set higher), and I got the same thing: the A/C light came on.
Is this normal or should I have this looked at next time I take my car in for service?
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I cannot figure out what to do when cold weather comes and I want heat in the car. I've never owned or driven a hybrid. Looks like there are two alternatives:
Set the internal temperature setting to whatever warmth I want, disable the "Automatic" setting, and assume that outside air will be drawn in and warmed by the engine and circulated inside.
Use "Automatic" and let the A/C setting automatically run to warm the air to the temperature I set.
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My 2007 has 160k miles and at just over 100k I had toyota change all the fluids. That was about 3 or 4 months ago, it's a taxi. I started noticing the heat was only hot above 83, and sometimes not even hot at high. I thought I was out of fluid so I added to the overflow not wanting to open the cap on a hot motor. It didnt take much, but made the heat come back on above 80 degrees so I did nothing else.
Last night I had no heat again after driving about 200 miles. The heat came back after turning it off for a few minutes, but I stopped at a gas station anyway when I got off the freeway.
The overflow was full. It was also cold. So were the radiator hoses, but not what looked like power steering hoses next to it.
I check that belt pulley was spinning when the engine was running, it was. It a new belt put on by dealer.
The car doesn't show any signs of overheating, and is driven 300 or more miles a day in town and freeway. The motor was of course hot, but not overly so. None of the connected components were hot like I would expect if was overheating.
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I wonder why the AC takes time to start heating on cold mornings. Actually. It gives warm air after about 5_10 minutes of driving. Is that OK?
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My prius 2004 AC not cool what really problem come from ? I didn't do anything with it....
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In the Gen III, does the fan have the same problem? If so, is there an easy way to perform the mod that can be easily undone?
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I did a search on ac issue, ac failure, a/c issue, a/c failure and didn't find anything. My wife just called to tell me that the a/c isn't cooling.
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I have 05 prius and the cooling fans wont kick on as well as the ac wont work. I have had the cooling fan motors checked they are good. I have changed the 2 cooling fans relays and the cooling fans still wont kick on.
When I bought the car the check engine light was on so I had it scanned and it threw the code P1121 coolant valve control. so I went and bought this part since I heard it was a common problem but haven't got it put on yet. Could this cause the cooling fans to not kick on and ac not to work or is it something else?
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My inverter over heated. Looked at reservoir for motion of water saw none. Took car to toyota for pump recall. When I got it back I heard the pump. Never heard it before. I don't think it ever worked. & water is flowing in reservor now. Now I am thinking about the HV bat. fan because I never never ever heard it working. When does it come on and how could I test it?
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OK, so I have the 100K extended warranty. What can I expect soon after 99K to maybe go out?
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I bought my 2007 with almost 100K miles on it back in November. It's been a great car, and I had various maintenance done to it and did some myself. Looks like there's a problem with the A/C -- it's just not cooling the air. Yesterday was the first day in the sixties here in NJ, and the A/C just wasn't what an A/C is supposed to do.
The car was maintained at a dealership exclusively. Here's the entry about the A/C:
05/29/2012 93,478 AIR COND. INSPECT
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My 2009 has been showing the CEL off and on for a few weeks. Have had it read at auto zone twice, two different codes. Both cooling system related, but not the same. Today I filled the gas tank and it went back off.
Is it possible for the cap to be causing the light, or would the scanners tell that in a code? I just hate to take it to the mechanic when it is running fine and the light is not even staying on.
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I have an 05 Prius with 53k miles and the ac just recently stopped working. The blower fan still comes on, but neither the compressor nor condenser cooling fan will come on. I've checked the fuses and relays, and they check out ok. I'm hoping there may be one I missed? It just stopped working with no warning signs. What could be causing this? If the compressor was bad, the condenser fan would still work, right? I'm fearing it's the ac inverter. Do the symptoms match?
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How often should the traction battery cooling fan come on? It started to be warmer here in FL, and I hear this fan more often now. I bought my 2011 in December and up until now almost never heard this fan working. Now it comes on at least couple of times a day, mostly under heavy acceleration in Power mode.
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I heard that you could place a flat screwdriver between the upper radiator hose and the end of radiator. Is this procedure really work?
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