Prius V :: Taking Longer To Engage EV Mode
Oct 13, 2015
Just recently I"ve noticed my Pri-v is taking longer, and not as often switching to EV. All these observations are after the car has been fully warmed up and driven for several miles with a sufficient battery charge. Previously it would always switch to EV at 43mph when letting off the accelerator.......and I could keep it going usually till about 45.... A quick let of the accelerator would almost always accomplish this. Recently it has not been consistent...a few times not even shutting off when the car is stopped. The car has about 88,000 on the odometer. I've always noticed when it does go from ICE to EV, the transition is not a smooth too. That I"m guessing is the transmission fluid?
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Hard to put it all in a title. I have 149K miles on our 2009. The warranty expires in 1000 miles. I've noticed recently that I can no longer engage the ev mode with the ev mod. I always get a "cannot change into eve mode" message on the MFD. It used to be that I could do it before the engine started or after all warm up cycles were complete.
Now, when first powering on, ev mode won't engage before engine start and there is no MFD message. After warm up is complete, the message appears on the MFD whenever I try to change to EV mode.
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Alright so I've had this car for about six months now and the clutch was supposedly replaced by the dealer I got it at. The clutch usually grabs about half way up but sometimes it's higher. I replaced the master cylinder because it blew out, when changing my I take I noticed the slave was starting to leak so I replaced that about three weeks ago. Ever since then, the clutch seems to grab differently and seems to be taking longer to engage.
Now, I did the "slave mod" on the old one AND the new one so it's not that. Do you guys think the new slave is bad? I have high temp dot 3 in there (I try to only use the best fluids for my cars). It just doesn't seem to grab as hard as she used to. Like it takes a bit longer to engage. The clutch (should) only have 15k miles on it. The clutch parts are under warranty but I'd still have to pay for labor since it's a wear part. I'd like to avoid replacing it if it's that new u less it's definitely going.
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02 Ranger 2.3 4cyl 5 spd 115K.... My A/C seems to take longer and longer to start cooling/ When it does start cooling it seems that is is actually colder than it has ever been (original owner) and the control is more sensitive to the touch when moved. Being a 4 cyl it's easy to detect when the compressor kicks in and it seems each time it is taking longer to do so. If I stop the motor, it goes thru the same cycle of time or longer before cooling (compressor kicking in) again. No codes, No unusual noises.
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Taking longer and longer for key fob to open doors, etc. Assume the battery needs to be changed. Have no problem with other fob. How do you change the battery in the key fob for this year model.
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I've read several posts that suggest the EV mode is mostly useless. I disagree. I've noticed that it's useful in gaining speed faster without the ICE, when taking off from a stop. Especially if I'm in traffic and I don't want to annoy drivers behind me.
I've noticed that conditions have to be met in order to do this, such as engine warmed up etc. but I find it very useful, and I am seeing improved MPG when doing this. I've had my 2013 PRius v Two for almost a month now.
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A couple of weeks ago my amp went out and it was replaced. I didn't use the USB port previously b/c my MP3 player is old and wouldn't connect. However after having the amp replaced it dawned on me I could use my phone (motorola cliq) to play music with the USB. It worked for a couple of days and then nothing. The tab on the mode options for the USB would no longer light up. I can still play music from my phones SD card via the aux and via bluetooth, but not the USB. Took the car back in and two days later they are telling me its my phone. Maybe, but considering it worked prior and nothing has changed on my phone I am at a loss.
Today, they called to tell me they were able to hook it up to a ipod and everything worked great! Mine DID work, so what changed? They suggested I use a stick/thumb drive. Went and bought one, loaded one album onto it and it won't work either. The USB tab won't even light up for me to choose it as an option. I do NOT want to go by a ipod when I have a perfectly great 16 g sd card in my phone that DID work! But I also want to use my touch screen to choose songs and go through my music files without having to use my phone while driving. The USB port is recognizing my phone as it charges it while plugged in. I have tried setting the phone to SD card on, and then off (charge only setting). Nothing causes that USB tab to light up and give me a choice to see whats going on.
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Have a 2014 Prius III. Was getting 50-60 mpg until i took it in for the 5k mile service. Immediately afterwards the mpg dropped to 43-50 mpg. It seems when the car is cold, it will start in EV mode for a few seconds and then the engine will kick in and it will not enter EV mode for the first few miles even with the battery 80% charged, driving under 20 mph, a/c off and keeping the Hybrid system indicator in what should be the EV range.
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I've had my 2009 Prius II for about a year now and I have NEVER been able to turn on the accessory mode. I followed the manual and put the smart key in the slot and pushed the power button while keeping my foot off of the brake pedal but I get NO RESPONSE. I tried holding the power button down, pushing it just once, and pushing it repeatedly. I've successfully engaged accessory mode on a similar interface before (on a hybrid Highlander) with no problem.
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Maintenance Mode is useful for running the engine continuously without it shutting off, such as when you do a coolant drain and fill and want to purge air out of the cooling system. This thread was created to clarify the procedure for engaging Maintenance Mode on the G3 Prius after attempting to do it according to the Prius service manual and finding that the manual does not clearly describe or include all the required steps.
Perform the follows steps in less than 60 seconds to engage Maintenance Mode for the G3 Prius.
Begin with the car and all accessories turned off.
Set the parking brake.
With the car in Park, and your foot off the brake pedal, turn the Power Switch "On" by pressing it twice.
With the car in Park, and your foot off the brake pedal, fully depress the accelerator twice.
Step on the brake pedal and use the shift lever to shift from Park to Neutral.
With the car in Neutral, and your foot off the brake pedal, fully depress the accelerator twice.
Step on the brake pedal and press the Park switch/button to shift from Neutral to Park.
With the car in Park, and your foot off the brake pedal, fully depress the accelerator twice.
Check that "Maintenance Mode" is displayed in the multi-information display.
Step on the brake pedal and then press the Power Switch to start the engine.
Important: DO NOT drive the car in maintenance mode to avoid damage to the transaxle.
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I have noticed that my 2008 Prius does not always engage EV mode (after I push the EV button) when the battery is green (nearly fully charged) and speed is well below 45 km/hr. Message displayed is "switching to EV mode is invalid now". So it seems there are factors at play other than the speed and the level of traction battery charge.
What these are? Is battery temperature monitored? Will the operation of the air conditioner affect it? Most times it doesn't but I wonder if under certain circumstances it might.
I use it at times if I am going up a slow speed incline, often from a standing start, knowing that there will be plenty of opportunity to recharge shortly after.
Weather here is pretty warm- around 30C maximum during the day.
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2003 accent. I had an intermittent starting issue, nothing serious. Then one day dead in the water. Had it in my garage so i changed all belts, Crank position sensor, starter and solenoid. It seemed to start different, a little longer than usual to start, but started. Drove it for about a week and dead again. Dont know if it was chance or not but as weather got colder, seemed to take a little longer to start. Cranks but does not fire. I can hear fuel pump priming. I took the spark plug wire and held it next to frame and did not see a spark. To double check i tried ether and still would not turn over. Assuming fuel is not an issue at this point. How ever i did get an evap code p0441 but it went away. I am stumped at this point. I am not very good at electrical on vehicles. I want to check coils, and work my way back but not sure if I am doing it correctly. Most vehicle videos don't have the same parts.
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On my 09 accent, it's been cranking slow/taking longer to start. Occasionally it won't even have the guts to spin the starter (clicking solenoid noise).
I checked the battery (<1 year old), and it has a resting voltage of 16.2 (?!) When running, it jumps to 17.4. Is this a bad alternator?
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I've got a '12 GTI (bought 10/1/12) with just over 20k miles on it. Everything on the car is stock and original - pads, rotors, calipers - and the brake fluid hasn't been flushed yet. The last few months I've noticed an increasing sponginess to the brakes, the pedal taking longer to depress before I feel significant stopping.
Pads and rotors still look good. Fluid level's normal. At best it feels like maybe some air pockets might've worked into the fluid lines. At worst it feels like maybe a leaky master cylinder. I'm wondering if it's a common problem.
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Recently my 93 Ranger 4.0 has started to take longer to shift into 2nd gear and the rpms are way up there. shortened 2nd gear then 3rd will be fine and so on. This only happens after the engine goes completely cold. I took it to a transmission shop and they said tranny is fine...Other than this issue the truck is fine.
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I've had my 6.0 for 2.5 years now and got really acquainted with what makes what noise, and how long starts took etc. recently this morning, i had a longer start, longer than a normal long start (4-5 seconds). Felt too long to me, but it started and didn't turn it off to try again. Got to my destination, turn the truck off and brough up ICP, FICM, FICM SYNC and cranked and watched.
After 1 second ICP jumped to 600 then to 770 and 2-3 seconds later FICM sync finally read 1 and it fired. What can be causing the sync to take so long? I have had intermittent no starts before, maybe 4 in the 2.5 years i've had it and every time i have pushed on the fuse blocks by the driver batteries, and also pushed on the FICM connections to make sure everything was okay. That seemed to always work.. But no amount of pushing on them are solving the long start that is happening...
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Ok I've got an 01 F250 sd 7.3 with 257k on it it just started talking longer to start than it should it will do it cold or hot even if I shut it off at the drive thru takes it like 10 sec or more to fire. My question is I thought about purchasing a autoenginuity to find the problem but not sure the best place to get and what model I should get.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Tundra with about 57,000 miles and noticed that it takes more "push" to get the brakes to engage. (The brake pedal has to travel further towards the floor) There is no squealing or any other sounds and the brake fluid tank is almost full, I have not added any brake fluid or had any brake work done since I bought the truck in the fall of 2008. I am wondering what the problem could be and the possible cost involved to get it fixed. Brake Pads Wearing? Air Bubble? I'm not sure. This has been ongoing for about 3 weeks, but it doesn't seem to be getting any worse.
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So sometimes the 4x4 takes awhile to engage. Both hubs are free turning (manual to auto). Drivers side only holds a few psi of vacuum. Passengers side 20ish. All seals have been replaced. Was tested right at the nipple on drivers side front. Switching hubs from side to side didn't change anything. 2 mechanics are unsure what to do aside from take a chance at replacing the wheel bearing. It does eventually go into 4x4 but takes awhile for 4x4 to engage and light on dash to come on.
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1991 4x4 f250 idi w e4od w 3:55 ratio... The truck is slow to engage in reverse, about 5-10 sec. It also has a very hard shift 1-2. All other shift points are good. Drop down is good, and TC lock up happens at all the right points (feels like anyway).
I've had the truck for about 2 years now, replaced several sensors an harnesses and a full fluid change to solve other problems but this still remains.
Sometimes when I start it in the morning if I let it sit and idle for a few min it will engage reverse much quicker AND shifts way smoother and constant. Shifts smoothly thro all gears, holding a constant 1800-2000 rpms with no drop or lug. Or do I need a rebuild?
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Started the car this morning and I noticed on the head unit that the drive mode selection wasn't showing "Comfort", "Sport" "Normal". When I press the mode button, the choices are faded and can't be pressed. Is this common? Something I've done?
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