I have recently been having problems with my 2013 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon). When I press power, all the dashboard lights turn on. And when I try to shift the car into reverse or drive the car stays on neutral. What is going on?
View 7 RepliesI have been driving a 2003 Chevrolet cavalier and the automatic shift is stuck and can only shift to neutral and drive since Thursday morning. It wont go up to reverse and parking and down to the other 3 shifts.
This first happened last April but somehow with the right grip or pressure was able to get back to all the other shifts. Since then it happened 2-3 times as I can remember and now could be getting worse.
Vehicle was repaired after front end collision and I get no codes found on scanner, had some bad connectors which I replaced and codes went away. I don't get ready light and the dash lights do not cycle off (ABS, SRS, Check engine, Etc. Etc.) The car will shift into neutral but not drive or reverse. Has new Aux battery and Hybrid battery is showing two bars. What to check ?
View 6 RepliesI am having difficulty with my Prius, (just started) that it won't shift out of neutral to drive or reverse. I have read several posts, one says replace the shifter knob, but I did read one i thought that said the 12v battery might be the problem with low voltage. The battery is 5 years old.
View 2 RepliesI have an '07 Prius Touring with about 95K miles that I have owned for about a month (after my previous '07 was totaled). My wife tried to drive it for the first time today, and the problem is that when my wife tries to start the engine, the dash lights come on and the color display comes on, but the car won't "shift" into Drive or Reverse (it will go into Neutral). A dash warning light also comes on that the owner's manual says means Take to the Toyota Dealer for Service. Then if she gets out of the car and then I get into the drivers seat, everything works fine.
View 16 Replies2009 Touring Dead at 55000... All lights on dash light up and won't shift to reverse or drive only neutral. Towed to dealer and they said it threw several codes and are replacing the tranny.
View 18 RepliesWell, like the title says, The trans is stuck in third gear, with no other gears, or neutral or reverse. The car is slightly modified 02 GTI 337. APR Chip, Forge TIP, Full 3" exhaust, Greddy FMIC. I definitely drive the car, and had been beating up on it on the highway for a little on my way in to work, then on the way home, down shifted to pass someone, dropped it third, passed them, went to shift to fourth, Shifter moved, felt like it engaged "a gear" and then then i let off the clutch and it was still in third.
I also noticed that unless, I press the clutch in the, the car stays in this gear, even when the shifter is in neutral. I looked at the linkage, and it appears to be functioning. I did some reading around the Vortex and it seems like this might be a shift fork problem. Also, if the trans will be apart, what items should be upgraded?
I read a couple posts on Gear Shift switching back to neutral. Here is my situation. Got in the car to return some movies and realized I left them on the table. Went back to the house, and right before I turned into the driveway, noticed a metal coffee cup had come out of the holder and the edge was up under the accelerator. I had been applying my brakes to slow for the turn into the driveway, then when I went to accelerate, nothing, then noticed the cup.
Removed the cup and stepped on the gas to go into the driveway. Nothing. Turned the car off, then back on and tried to put into drive, goes a tiny bit then slips back into neutral. Tried it in reverse, same thing, pops back into neutral.
I can hold the shift lever in position and the car moves. It's in the driveway now and will get towed to the Toyota dealer tomorrow. Obviously a problem with the shifter as a result of the "coffee cup" under the edge of the accelerator. And yes, I know it's dangerous, hubby used the car last on his visit home this weekend and apparently the coffee cup either got put down on the floorboard or was knocked out. I bring it in the home when I'm done.....anyway.
So, the most likely cause was the spring talked about in other posts breaking, or a switch sticking or what. Seems like something got knocked or shifted out of adjustment. Does the accelerator have some type of cut off switch if something gets lodged under it?
I shifted to "reverse" but the car went to "drive" instead. I've only had my Prius for 2 weeks. Today was the first time I encountered this problem, and it happened 3x.
View 14 RepliesOk first off I am a used car dealer and have sold 20 plus gen IIs and never had to replace the main Hybrid battery pack... until this one! after i replaced it with a used one every thing seemed to be fine, I drove the car for a while the check engine light went off(the reason we knew the battery pack was bad) and after a few miles of driving the red triangle light went off.. yea! I think im done so we put all the carpet and rear seats back in and i get in it to start it and put it on the lot and it will not go into gear or start. all the dash lights come on and will go into neutral when i push the brake but just will not go into drive or neutral.
Here are some things we already tried:
1. put the original battery back in the car- no change
2. put our jump box to the small battery-no change
3. checked the brake lights they are coming on when i push the brake
4. put the scanner on the obdII- no codes
The car is an 06 with 200k miles in very good shape. Could it be in the shifter and not related to the battery change out?
I was once the proud owner of a 2006 Prius with 106,716 miles on it. Never missed a regularly scheduled service. Now, I am no longer proud, but just another owner of a Prius with a failed transaxle.
Last week, I parked my car on my way to work and, while the car was idling in park, the Triangle of Death (red with exlamation mark within) came up on the dashboard. The car went into limp mode -- it was unable to shift into drive or reverse -- so I had it towed to Darcars in Silver Spring, MD. They thought the original 12v battery was dead, so they replaced it.
P0AA6 -- 526 and 613 codes 600 miles after Transaxle Fluid Replacement...
I am experiencing a slight vibration with in drive or reverse but not when it is in neutral. I change the spark plugs and checked the PCV. I have the latest model already and I replace the gasket in the PVC. There is no errors in VAGCOM.. What could be causing that? Mounts???
View 4 Repliesi have a 1994 nissan quest 3.0 v6 and when i put it in reverse or drive it will slip into neutral if i am stopped. Also the front motor mount needs to be replaced, which I will do soon. Are these problems related, if not how do i fix the shifter/linkage problem? When driving the vehicle upshifts and downshifts perfectly.
View 1 RepliesHave a 2003 Saturn Vue with a variable transmission (rebuilt). It will only go in reverse even when in drive, or natural.
View 5 RepliesI came home last night and rolled into the driveway. With the car in neutral I took my foot off the clutch and the car stalled. I get in the car this morning to go to work, and it's still happening. I put it in reverse to see if it will drive.....and now it's stuck in reverse.
I can't get it into any other gear or neutral..........even when the car is off. I've unattached the linkage, and the shift knob moves freely.....so I don't think it's that. I found these old threads (one even mine)
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So I'm lead to believe that the master/slave cylinder is acting up again. Also, how can I get it into neutral so I can at least get it towed and stop blocking my driveway?
When I started my car and put it in reverse, it didn't move. It felt like my front, right wheel was in a divet or was being blocked somehow (intuitively it seemed like if I accelerated enough, it would eventually move, but since there was nothing physically stopping it - that I could see - I didn't want to break something by doing that). I tried putting it in drive and neutral and the same issue was still there. I put the car up on a jack and checked one wheel at a time - I could move each wheel completely around in both directions.
I could move the steering wheel all the way to the right and to the left. I tried turning off the 4-wheel drive and that didn't do anything. At this point I'm concerned it could be the transmission or the drive shaft, but I'm not sure what to look for in order to know if I need to get it towed to a shop (hoping I can avoid this) or if there's a simple test I can do, or a way to "reset" something if it may be locked. I haven't had anything happen to the car that would have been of concern.
I have a 2006 suzuki forenza (automatic) with about 90,000 miles on it. Five times this summer, it seems to get "stuck" between reverse/ neutral (both letters are displayed on dashboard) and the check engine light goes on. I turn the car off/on and the the problem seems to resolve. The check engine light stays on for about 24 hours. The car drives "fine" (its a relative term, has some other quirks) for another 2-4 weeks until it happens again. My question is: is this a serious problem or can I just ignore it?
View 1 RepliesMy name is Jason and I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 with an automatic transmission. It has trouble shifting. I have to drop it down from D into 2 and then back into D to get it to shift out of second gear most of the time. If I have to stop ten times in a trip I have to manually shift it about seven or eight of those times. On top of that, sometimes while I'm driving it will slip into Neutral but it'll still be in the D position. This just started and has only happened a few times so far. My transmission fluid levels are fine. I'm trying to see if there is any other solution besides rebuilding or replacing my transmission.
View 2 RepliesThis is a 1991 Volvo 240 Automatic Station Wagon. The Check Engine Light has been on for at least 6 months, the timing belt was replaced 3 months ago , the battery is a month old, the oil was just changed, gas tank just filled and the odometer stopped at 259,000 miles before I bought it so it has well over 300,000. Yesterday morning it took a minute to start, which happens on occasion, but backed out and drove about a mile and stalled at a stop light. It finally started, after 6 false starts, and I turned around to go back home. It then stalled again but reversed just fine, so I got it turned around and drove in reverse the rest of the way home. It drove fine after a few hours but did the same thing today.
View 13 Repliesit's a 2000 honda civic EX. I pulled into a parking spot and slowed down, then decided to speed back up and when I accelerated it was like the car was in neutral. No gear would drive. Turned off the engine and re started and it shifted and did fine then about a 1/4 mile down the road the same thing happened. It just switched into neutral. The transmission fluid is full and clean and the filter has been changed. There was no warning signs at all.
The only caveat I can think of is last week at 15 mph my front passenger wheel fell off after someone replaced a tire. I traveled less than 10 feet on the wheel. But didn't think the transmission would be low enough to hit the ground.
At first I thought transmission clutch but it would be doing it in one direction? Then I thought maybe a pump? Or could it be a sensor or the torque converter.
I have a 1970 f250 with a factory 390 (vin verified) and a C6, I believe the transmission was rebuilt but have no way to verify. It works fine while cold and mildly warm. Once heat soaked it is very slow to shift (going from neutral to reverse can take almost 30 sec) and leaks profusely from the front. I can not tell exactly where the leak is. Could this be a case of just having too much fluid or is there a more serious concern? The dipstick does read high but level ground in my area is hard to come by so the accuracy can be questioned. If it does have to much fluid, do I just drain the pan, re-install and let it run till hot and replace fluid as needed or should I drain and replace with 3 qrts prior to starting?
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