My car is pulling to one right slightly so I did the alignment. But it didnt eliminate the problem. Ｉ jacked up my car and try to rotate the front wheel. I can hear slight noise of the caliper rubbing the disk and the wheel does not spin freely if I stopped rotating it. However, the noise is subtle so I don't know if it is by design or I have a brake drag.
View 7 RepliesNoticed that both rear wheel hubs don't spin freely, they rub or grind. 2013 Elantra sedan gets about 10% worse MPG than a 2012 Elantra we traded in for it, two identical cars yet 2012 got much better MPG and now we notice a rubbing noise on the 2013.
2013 Elantra has 19000 miles but has always had reduced MPG, markedly worse than the identical 2012 we traded, but dealer could never find a problem with 2013.
Wonder if this rubbing on the wheel hubs is to blame for the lower MPG? I can't think it works. Not sure if its the emergency brake, the power brakes, the wheel bearing or something else.
Is this rubbing noise normal? Rubbing happens with the hub only or even with the wheel attached to the hub.
I ask this because when on the hwy (60-70mph) you can feel some vibration in your hands. I can let the steering wheel go and it won't move a bit but when hands placed on it you can definitely feel the road, including bumps, and regardless of road conditions. Tires where balanced at 7500mi but it still happens. Regardless of temperature or PSI in the tire.
I thought we had electric/electronic steering and no hydraulics? Maybe unrelated but, when turning in my driveway, very slow, I can hear a slight clicking (maybe rubbing) noise coming from the steering wheel column. Everything else has to be silent to be able to hear it.
I've been noticing bad gas mileage over the last few months. I changed the spark plus, that didn't work. then I noticed the prob when I was checking my mail one day, on a slight incline and the car didn't roll back. so I took it home and checked each tire to see if it spun freely, and the two front ones do not, the drivers side being the worst. I don't here any noises coming from either tires, and have actually replaced front right wheel bearing last year.
View 21 RepliesI took my A/C tensioner pulley (the pulley that is on the upper left of my crankshaft/harmonic balancer) off and when I took it off, the plates and washer fell off and I wasn't 100% positive how they went back on. I mean I thought I was 100% positive until I tried putting it back on. There are two plates, one on the front of pulley and one on the back. I'm guessing the smaller 1 has to be on the front because it has marks from the nut that goes on the front. The other one in my mind obviously has to be the back 1. The thick washer "seems" to go behind the back plate. It has stain marks on it that line up with the mounted bracket behind it, that is why I say seems. The actual bolt goes in from behind the bracket. The problem is when putting the pulley back on, I tighten the nut (I can't find the torque specs anywhere) in the front and the pulley won't spin freely at all. When I loosen the nut to the point where the pulley can slide side to side it will spin no problem. Something just ain't right but what it is. Are there more parts to this thing that might have rolled off into the abyss? Did I put the parts on wrong?
View 4 RepliesOn my '92, 302, I have a failing compressor. It is "catching" after 1 - 3 turns. The clutch doesn't want to spin freely, not cooling well at idle and local shop advised me to get a new everything, if I want it to last.
My question is if I can pull a compressor from the JY, from same year/model, replace orifice tube, run a cleaner thru, evacuate the system, and fill with appropriate refrigerant. The reason I'm not doing the full repair with new compressor, new condenser, new drier, is I'm going to be pulling the engine at some point with a newly rebuilt engine I'm working on. I know the old system have R-12, but isn't there a way to just get by with the 134 retrokit's?
OK, so the front end of the car is on jack stands. The rear is planted on the ground. The car is in park.
Yet, I'm able to spin the front wheels with my hand.
Wouldn't putting it in park lock the wheels via the transmission?
The car is a FWD 2007 Corolla....
I have a 99 f250 7.3 4x4. The problem is in 2wd I can spin the front drive shaft freely and the driver side axle will turn but not passenger side. I've pulled both hubs off and both are in auto position and spin freely. Even with the hub off on the pass side the axle won't spin freely.
View 1 RepliesI have a '79 F150 4wd and was wondering what would indicate a caliper needing replacement. I'm already going to replace everything on my rear brakes, they are completely trashed. However, the fronts seem OK, NO indications of leaks or seizing both sides of the rotors appear to be evenly "used" I guess. The inner pads do seem to be thicker than the outer pads is this normal? Anything I should be specifically looking for before I have the rotors turned and put a new set of pads on?
View 5 RepliesI just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2002 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport. There is a slight rubbing noise when I make wide turns and I suspect it is the wheel bearings. How much should it cost to replace these, and how thin is the ice I am skating on if I put it off?
View 4 RepliesHere's the deal:
1. My 2002 SC430 with 23,000 miles on it is making a low rubbing noise when slowing down, with a slight vibration, not severe enough, but it is annoying and frankly surprising on this car. The dealer tells me it's because the brakes have "glaze" on them, and short of a new brake job, you can jam on the brakes to clear or loosen some of this and reduce the noise. ( I live in the desert so I'm sure I could find a deserted stretch or road for this craziness...) The dealer reports the brakes have 70 - 80 percent life on them and I don't need a brake job.
2. Power steering. I thought this particular car was just hard to steer, but even the tech at the dealer commented it's like I have no power steering. I test drove two other cars, and the steering is markedly lighter on the other two SC430's I drove. (2002 and 2005) Dealer can't seem to find an explanation, but I have to drive this car with two hands around town... I know this is not the way this car was intended to feel.
I don't believe the car changed that much from the 2002 model so as to affect the steering. BTW, I'm using stock tires, not run flat, 4 months old. And the steering is stiff at idle anyway, regardless of tires. The first SC I drove, which sealed the decision to buy one, was so quiet I didn't know the engine was running, easy to steer, and smooth.
I drove our 2007 Prius (79K miles) the other day and noticed a whirring or slight grating noise whenever I loaded up the left front wheel (by steering right) at speed. It's far from a hum or a howl at this point.
View 14 RepliesI'm working on a 2007 Camry and I had the wheel bearings pressed in & out at a shop. I put everything back together but the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket. And there is no air gap between the rotor and bracket so it can spin freely without rubbing. The passenger side is fine, there is a little air gap so the rotor can move freely without rubbing. I don't understand why the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper? I checked everything over, the pads and rotor are the correct ones. I also took the pass side caliper bracket and installed it on the driver side and same thing, the rotor still rubs against the bracket.
View 13 RepliesI recently replaced my pads and rotors. The driver side was no problem, but on the passenger side, when I was finished, the caliper was rubbing up against the rim of the tire. I took both tires off to compare the differences, I noticed that my passenger side caliper is not going down as deep on the pads as the driver side. The caliper on the passenger side depressed with no problems and had no problems fitting over the pads. Whats really confusing is that all of my bolt holes line up.
View 11 RepliesI've noticed lately that when I make a fairly sharp, but at low speed, left hand turn (for instance, I have a roundabout in my neighborhood) I get a strange rubbing noise coming from the front driver side wheel well and a bit of a vibration in the steering wheel. I'm still on the stock suspension, so I shouldn't be rubbing. Have I blown a shock or something?
View 2 RepliesI just recently I have been experiencing a rubbing/grinding noise from the rear right wheel, also it has made a clonking noise like a flat tyre but it isn't, I can hear the noise from about 25/30 mph when I go faster or slower i cant hear the noise.
View 2 RepliesWell its been almost 2 weeks since I've had the Ex (has 103K miles). Planning on new V code springs, Bilsteins front and rear , and rear Hellwig bar going in this weekend. Once I see how that that works I may also upgrade the rear springs to B code.
When I had it up yesterday I noticed the front right wheel does not spin freely. I can hear what appears to be the brake pad dragging.
Right not everything wrong with mine seems very common:
- very poor ride, 3/4" clearance between the front bump stop and suspension
- 4 door locks don't work (that's after the suspension fix)
- drivers heated seat not working
I've searched but couldn't find a 6th gen camry running a super low disk type wheel with the specs I want.i'm currently running square g6 wheels (18x9.5 +12)..I'm planning on purchasing a set of super low disk type wheels (18x9.5 +15)Would I have any problems clearing the OEM brakes? And would it be safe to run a 3mm spacer without extended lugs to bring it back to +12 offset?
View 1 RepliesConcerning my recently purchased '99 GMC Sierra 1500 2wd 4.8L...
There is a seemingly undiagnosable, not that noticeable, rubbing noise that seems to come from the front passenger wheel - one rub for every revolution of the wheel. It is fairly subtle and can be felt (subtle) in the steering wheel between 30mph and 45mph. I don't think a lot of people would notice it and anyone that did would probably just turn up the radio at this point. After all, this truck has a very solid drive train and runs amazingly smooth for its age and mileage (172K)
Here are the repairs I have made that you might be about to suggest:- New front bearing/ hub assemblies on both sides within the last year. No play in any of the wheels.- New tires from Firestone within last month.- New tie rod ends and alignment. - New rotors, pads, and flex lines on front. Refurbished caliper on passenger side front.- New pads, calipers, and flex lines on rear. (one of the calipers had seized and I thought I had finally found the problem... not.) (one of the flex lines was the wrong part and was rubbing up against the rim... I thought that was the problem... not.)
Here are the things you are about to suggest I check:- Transmission, rear axle bearings, etc checked out by my trusted transmission shop. - Wheel well shields are firmly attached.
Things I haven't yet fixed : tail pipe bracket, evap emission solenoid assembly, blower fan resistor thingy, crappy door latch.
1999 F350 4x4 dually. Replacing brakes front and back. Rotors, Pads, and hoses. On the left front put rotor back on and torqued down hub nuts on rotor. Then caliper mounting bracket wouldn't fit back between mounting bracket and rotor. Loosened the hub nuts on rotor, and fit mounting bracket in place. Then torqued down the hub nuts again, and rotor rubs on mounting bracket and rotor/hub won't turn.
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