Prius V :: Oil Level Dropped - Engine Topped Off On The Dipstick
Apr 10, 2012
Up until my last oil change at 105,000 miles, I didn't notice any oil usage. When draining my oil, it didn't look like it was quite 4 quarts. After the oil change, I ensured that I had the engine EXACTLY topped off to the upper mark on the dipstick. Around 600 miles later, I parked in the same location and have noticed that the oil level has dropped enough to notice.
I am guessing that I will lose well over a quart between oil changes. Before I resign to the normal mechanical reasons (rings, cylinder wear, etc.), The loss doesn't seem to be gradual which has me looking for other explanations. I also had a Toyota mechanic go over the car and replace the other fluids and filters at 100,000 miles (coincidence I think ).
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I know that when the engine oil level is low a screen will pop up saying to replace the oil.
Is there a way to check the oil level without having to use the dip stick?
On my old HCH it would display the oil life on a side toggle display.
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I know this may seem like a really dumb question, but I was checking the oil on my 2008 prius today and noticed I get different readings on the front and reverse side of the dipstick. One side I have a halfway mark between the 2 marks, flip it over to the backside and I see my oil level is full. So I'm not really sure what the correct reading is.
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OK; I give up. How do I check the trans. fluid level on my 2010 F150 6 spd. auto trans????? I see that there is NOT a dipstick in the engine compartment.
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I don't know what would be considered a normal amount of oil to be used between changes but my 08 w/5.3l seems to be going through too much. Since I've had the truck,about 7.5 months, I've changed to oil once converting it over to Amsoil. When I changed it I noticed the level was lower than what I expected on the dipstick, like 2 quarts low and the oil life meter is showing it's almost time for another change but I had to add a quart about 3 weeks ago because it was down.
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I am unable to get a reading from my oil dipstick and I am wondering if this is an indicator of an upcoming problem. I tested my car the day after I got it serviced at the dealer - It was a major service where all oil levels and tune up had been performed. The car is parked on a street that can be qualified as horizontal surface and the engine hasn't turned yet. I pull the dipstick and it's full of oil. I clean it and retest and I get the same results where the stick is fully covered with oil. I tried all the tricks I heard of - got a new dipstick, changed the oil a second time and put the recommended volume of oil only to get the same results. How I can get an accurate reading - or maybe this may be an indicator of the engine going out or something.
The car in question is a 2002 Audi A6 3.0 V6 engine all wheel drive and about 140K miles on it.
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Car is burning through a higher than usual amount of oil? I just went to the dealer to do an oil change because the oil was so low I could barely get a reading on the dipstick, no leaks were found, and the car does not smoke.
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When checking the oil I am having difficulties determing the level. It is difficult to determine an actual line of the oil level. Oil is smeared above the dimples of the dipstick. I know it is not two inches above the top dimple. I have two other vehicles in the family and it is very easy to tell the level. After driving how long should I wait for the oil to settle into the pan? How to determine the level on the dipstick. A friend of mine to said to check to see if the lower dimple is filled with oil.
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I am checking the tranny fluid level in my daughter's 2007 4 cyl Camry tomorrow.
This tranny has the dipstick and each time we try to check the fluid level with the dip stick we are not sure if we are getting a good reading or not.
What's the trick to it. Should the tranny fluid be at a certain temp before checking? I don't have the manual with me so I'm trying to find the procedure.
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We purchased a new LaCrosse CXL in 2005. Its speedometer now shows 90,126 miles. The 5W-30 motor oil has been changed every 3,000 miles with no indication of oil loss until around 65,000 miles, when I began noticing a slight drop in oil level on the dipstick (about 1/4 quart) within the 1st 1,000miles following the scheduled oil changes. I then added enough oil to bring the oil level back to full. Within the next 1,000 miles, the oil level again shows oil loss of about 1/4 quart. This has continued over the last 4 years. The car is garaged, and I have never seen any sign of an oil leak on the floor. I have alsodriven behind the car several times, and have never seen any sign of oil smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. Both my Buick dealer and oil-change shop manager can offer no explanation as to why this oil leakage problem developed and continues. The oil shop manager says he has other Buick customers with the 3800 V-6 engine that complain about this same problem of engine oil loss.There have been no mechanical problems with the car and with the exception of the oil "leak" we have been well pleased with the car. Where is the oil going?
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Tonight we left baseball field and my 2005 excursion was white smoking all the way home. I Stopped Several Times And Checked Coolant Level And It Never dropped. I let it sit for a hour and coolant level is still at my black mark. So does this mean it's a injector? It poured down raining so I'll have to wait till morning. Will scanguage show any codes for injectors. If so I can program in the morning.
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I know checking your oil level is a pretty easy thing but I am having a serious issue right now. I checked my oil and my dipstick has oil on it but it isn't leaving the napkin wet. Like there is oil on the dip stick but it just doesn't seem right. Nothing on the ground were I stopped at before I got home. How long will it run without causing damage?
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I just replaced the head on a 1997 Saturn SL2 due to it running rough and low compression on one of the cylinders. It idles very smooth now and has at least 160 PSI on all 4 pistons. The problem is that it surges as you are accelerating slowly, gets poor gas mileage and it seems that the oil level is raising on the dip stick. I'm guessing that gas is some how getting into the oil.
I checked the spark plugs for carbon build-up which would indicate a rich gas mixture but they're clean (lite tan color). I also replace some of the vacuum lines where I found cracks, but I may have missed a few. Overall the car seems to run pretty good. The problem is that this is my daughter's car who lives 10 hours drive away and I don't want to stick her with any problems. I don't want to take it to a dealership where they'll charge me a lot of money but my mechanic that I normally deal with doesn't know what to do with it since there aren't any fault codes on the computer.
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My Father In Law bought a 2012 Prius C last year in Houston, they are from El Paso. The car drove great for many months, he takes the same path to work and same speed every day and was consistently getting over 60 mpg. All of a sudden winter came and he lost MPG and the engine would come on more often, even while parked. I own a 2009 Prius and told him mine did that too during the winter, because for some reason, during winter the battery drains while parked and the engine comes on to charge.
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Never thought I'd ever have an issue with replacing an oil dipstick from the engine bay . I removed the Prius oil dipstick to check level but found it was always difficult to re-insert the dipstick back in.
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The car was low and I added enough oil to bring back to full. 1800 miles later, engine dipstick reading at end tip of dipstick. Added a quart, was full. Drove around 80 miles. It was low again. It has a huge film of oil spray all over the back end and it seems to be leaking a lot of oil. It's in a kind of square patterning the driveway. Not just one drip. This is my first Prius.
2005 Prius Package 3 132k
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I just bought 05 prius from a dealer I don't know the history was told all it needed was a hybrid battery.
Now I have a 05 that I drive with known good parts so I pulled my hybrid battery and installed it in the new car the monitor showed engine charging inverter then going to the battery. However the bars on the battery graph start dropping. only code is a engine code 2102.
I also noticed the old A/C condenser in the back.
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I drive a 2007 Santa Fe and my car refused to start after the last the two times I topped up my gas tank.
I am confused and not sure what it could be? Ignition and lights come on, which makes me think it's not electrical. Car also starts up fine between gas station visits. Problem comes up only immediately after I top up. I am able to start up on the second try after I wait a few seconds.
Could I have a clogged fuel line or valve?
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This just started 2 weeks ago and has progressively gotten worse. I can take off fine, but when i ease off the throttle to level out my speed (it can be at 30mpg or 70mph it doesn't matter) I get a shimmy in the engine. If i give it gas or let totally off the throttle it goes away.
I've even heard some clanking a few times. Almost feels like a car with a broke engine mount...other than the fact it only does it when leveling out.
I had a local shop just check the basics underneath, axles, mounts etc and they said it looked fine.
No engine light so I don't feel its a sensor. Kinda of makes me think the link between the electric motor and the gas motor is sending mixed signals.
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I've read the pages on engine oil level and changes in the awesome 2004-2009 manual by John's Stuff - Toyota Prius and more.
Great information on overfilling of engine oil. Among others I read:
"The ideal level is 1/4” (one-quarter inch or 6 millimeters) below the "full" mark, which is between the D and the E on the photo above." (p.27)
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I went out to my 96 gmc k1500 this morning after auto-starting about 10 minutes before to let a/c cool the cab. It was running fine but when I got in I noticed the battery light was on and the electrical gauge was topped out past 19 into the orange. I turned the key into the "on" position and when I hit the brake pedal to put it into gear the engine started surging and then dieing down, back and forth (approx. between 500 and 1500 rpm) until it just finally died (lasted about 20-40 sec.). Ignition was still in "on" position but the electrical gauge returned to normal.
Tried starting it again and electrical gauge jumped right back up and battery light was still on but the engine didn't start surging again until I hit the brake pedal just like before. I'm going to guess my alternator/voltage regulator needs to be replaced but beyond that what else it could be. I'm not a mechanic by any means but I've managed to make minor repairs over the years myself following the Chiltons or Haynes manuals. I have a Hanyes manual for this vehicle but the troubleshooting section doesn't cover my problem specifically.
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