Prius V :: Misfire / Shaking At Cruising Speed Or Low RPM - Switching Between ICE And Electric
Apr 22, 2016
I bought my 2012 Prius v with 99,000 miles. It started running rough at around 110,000. Time for new spark plugs.
I installed new OEM plugs. Still rough. New ignition coils, Still rough. My car was shaking & jerking at any cruising speed, fast or slow. It seemed to have trouble switching between the ICE (engine) and electric motor. It made a continuous click click click noise at slow speeds. I would get up to speed and let off the gas a little and it would start going chug, chug, chug until I gave more gas. I hated driving my car. The shaking was giving me a headache. I investigated every posibility; Motor mounts, ECU, trans, changed the trans fluid, cleaned the EGR tube, CV shafts, torque limiter, VVT, sluging, tried fuel injector cleaner. I took it to the dealer. They said there was a misfire on #4 cylinder. I told them the ignition was all new but the #4 spark plug was discolored when I replaced it the second time. The mechanic said "That's it! It must be the fuel injector!" New injector installed, $488, still ran rough, still the chug chug chug and click click click. A few days ago, it ran so bad and so weak, it used up all the battery power and could barely stay running. I stopped for gas. I thought " maybe it's the EGR. I should just unplug it." BINGO !! It runs great !!!!! Smooth !!!!!! Better gas mileage. No chugging! No clicking!
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My '90 Ranger is experiencing a pretty bad misfire after doing a tune-up. I changed the plugs (gapped to .045), wires, distibutor cap, rotor button, air filter, fuel filter, and cleaned the IAC. It had a barely noticeable miss before the tune up, that's why I did it. Now, it's pretty horrible.
At idle, it's definitely noticeable, and at cruising speeds (RPM's below 3K) it bucks and surges. The weird part about it is WOT runs are as smooth and (somewhat) powerful as ever! At idle in neutral it will revv up just fine without any hesitation as well.
First thing I did was check the firing order, again and again. Made sure all my wires were properly seated on the plugs and on the distributor prongs. Pulled the plugs back out, they were all clean and properly gapped. I pulled the wires off one by one to try to isolate the misfire, but every plug wire I removed made around the same impact on the motor.
Next I ran codes. KOEO, I got code 95 - fuel pump secondary circuit failure. Don't know what to do about this. Fuel pumps comes on at the turn of the key, relay clicks... KOER, I got 11 (pass code), so nothing there.
Then I hooked a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, and at idle pressure was a steady 35 PSI. I also removed the vac. line to the FPR while running to see if gas came out. I checked for vac. leaks as well.
Now not sure what to check now. I've checked everything I know to check, but nothing works....
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Just curious, is the low speed electric acceleration in *hybrid mode* generally, seat of the pants, noticeably more robust than that of the 'regular', 3rd gen Prius? By low speed, I mean starting off from stop lights in normal driving.
Why do I ask? In 3rd gen Prius, electric acceleration lasts only a few seconds from a stop, maybe up to about 15 MPG roughly with light acceleration. With heavy throttle, gas engine comes on about right away.
How does the PiP behave under moderate acceleration from stop in hybrid mode? Could we say PiP accelerates on electric drive in HV about 6 MPH per second +/-x up to 25 MPH +/- x on level ground, etc....?
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Recently i started the car and it was shaking more that usual. the CEL light came stating P0300 with random misfires. It sounds and feels like misfires so i believe this is true.
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I purchased a second hand 2000 Prius for my wife about a year ago and the car has been awesome. A few months ago she started experiencing a steering vibration only at low speed when cold and steering wheel turned sharply.
It got worse till you could feel a slight vibration when even going straight, I tried to scan the OBDII for faults but my scanner would not even work on the Prius.
I search online and bought a U380 OBDII scanner but since it would take a while to get to me I decided to disconnect the 12v to reset the computer (and fix my map lights while disconnected) when I reconnected the 12v the car started ran for about 10 seconds then cut out with the red triangle showing. I thought maybe I had done something wrong and the immobilizer had cut the engine, went inside to check my manual I had bought(cd version) on my computer and google search but found nothing.
Went out and disconnected the battery again and reconnected with same results. After some more searching went to car and it started right up no triangle. Here is the strange part, for the next several days the steering was great no shake at all and even the slight vibration was gone. Over the next few weeks it has slowly been coming back again but still not near as bad as it was, I finally got my scanner and scanned it but it shows no codes. I have not seen anywhere if successfully repaired this type of problem without replacing the whole steering rack but maybe I am missing something, anyway I have a couple of questions in my quest not to replace the rack.
1) Is it possible that it has the zero adjust error and my scanner is not reading it?
2) My repair manual(although it does not seem very good) shows resistors with some kind of contacts in with the torque sensors, is it possible these contacts just need cleaning?
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I did a search and what I saw all had to do with noise at startup.Mine is during cruising. I have a 2007 Sonata 4 cylinder with 112K miles. Within the last few months it began making a slight chattering noise when I accelerate and when cruising. It's worst around 55mph. When I let off, it almost goes away, but is loudest when I just am feathering the pedal to maintain speed.
If I put the pedal down a little more and accelerate, it is not loud, but still faintly there. At first I thought it was a tapping sound, but I've let some of my friends listen and its more like a clattering, metal rattling, or vibration perhaps. Its hard to describe. A week ago I had the check engine light come on with a "P0011 Hyundai - 'A' Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Or System Performance Bank 1".
I changed the oil and took it into a local shop and they cleared the code/light and checked things out (the light hasn't reappeared). I had them take off the valve cover and make sure the top end was not making the noise. It seemed fine to them. They suggested I take it to the dealer for further diagnosis. I have not yet. It does not make noise during start up. If I have time I will upload a audio recording later. What may be making the noise? It seemed to get a little louder after the latest oil change, but that's probably me being more sensitive to the problem.
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Car runs just fine except I do notice the RPM's moving a bit up while I'm cruising at a steady speed. Almost as if the clutch is slipping. It's an Auto, btw.
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Its peak summer here and temperatures are around 50c. Recently I am experiencing a strange AC behavior! While driving, AC is blowing very cold air but while stationary air get little less cold and it feels sweaty... Also accelerating car makes AC more cold than cruising on normal speed...
I am wondering what it could be.... I had golf IV and never experienced it even it even parked under 50c summer afternoon.... Two weeks back, they have replaced my AC compressor valve... It could be a fan?
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Our FWD Santa Fe Limited had a very noticeable vibration that started around 60mph. Oddly, the vibration will sometimes come and go while cruising at a constant speed on the highway. We went about 30k miles before we had time to get it into the shop.
I asked them to rotate and balance the tires and the vibration was noticeably reduced...initially. Now it's back!
The car has ~65k miles. All 4 Kumho tires match and I believe are original from the factory. I have kept all tires inflated properly.
Our car has the optional 18" wheels. Is it common for these to bend? What else could be the cause here?
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I get a loud noise from the rear of my 2005 Subaru Outback, 67k miles.(No it's not my dog Pete)Starts as a WHOP, WHOP, WHOP that speeds up as the car speeds up 'til it's a loud drone at cruising speed. I thought it was older tires but changed those Saturday. No effect.
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Been having a very light vibration when cruising at speed as well as on some lower speed shifts and finally crawled under the truck today to check for drivetrain play. Other than the amazingly soft and sloppy transmission mount I noticed a TON of play in the driveshaft transmission yolk. Didn't feel like the u-joint but actually the tailshaft yolk. Dealer said on the phone they have seen this on a few of the newer trucks and it *should* be covered under the power train warranty. I have the subercab with the 1 piece aluminum driveshaft.
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2000 Hyundai Sonata 2.4 L engine, transmission drops from 4th gear to 3rd gear at cruising speed (65mph) and locks into 3rd gear, I have to stop and turn the key off and start the engine again to reset the A/T what do you think is happening?
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I've been getting a surge or revs when getting up to cruising speed before it drops into overdrive or or a constant speed. Happens around 1800-2200 rpm before up shifting to the next gear. More noticeable if under a load or going up a grade when it will hold gear longer before shifting. Only thing I can think of that would be related is the truck does lack some power on a cold start for the first couple miles before getting up to temp. I've cleaned the ebp sensor and it appears to be working correctly, reading within .1-.2 of BAR/MAP key one engine off. VGT solenoid is clean but have no real way to tell if it's working correctly. Other values icp/ipr temps fluid levels appear to be correct. Just changed the oil and it continues, changed the transmission oil and filter about 3000 miles ago. I've had this going on for about 1000. Started about the same time I changed tunes to PHP. They haven't been able to find anything in the tuning yet that could be causing this or if it is just making it show up now.
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I've got a 03 x with the 6.8 2wd 4r100. It was flaring pretty bad for a while going into lock up, about 2 months ago the flare went away now NO lockup. Its taking more pedal to get moving and alot more slip, once you reach cruising speed tranny goes into high pressure. Told to replace the selonoid pack, got one use from a tranny shop from a tranny that lost reverse, got it home took mine out and found out the new one is not PWM and mine is, I tested my selonoid by putting 12v to pin 1 and 4 and nothing (on the pwm pack) did it to the new pack and it works. My question is what will happen if I put the non pwm in my tranny that originally had pwm pack in it?
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I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles.
Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure. Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still.
The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it.
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I recently bought an '09 Santa Fe Limited. I want to love the vehicle, but I've got a problem with how it drives. Basically, here are the symptoms:
1. Engine RMPs dance around about 200 RPMs at idle. (I was told this is normal. I don't think it should be.)
2. Under normal acceleration, it bogs down immediately after shifting into 2nd gear and after a couple of seconds there is a surge and acceleration seems "normal."
3. Occasionally, I feel subtle fluctuations or surges in the engine under both acceleration and/or cruising speed (any speed, really.) It's like I'm feathering the throttle when I know I'm not. This is most pronounced when under a load, such as taking off from a stop sign at the bottom of a hill and accelerating up the hill.
So, here's what the dealer has done to address the issue.
1. According to the Carfax report, the previous owner had the throttle position sensor replaced at 22,000 miles and again at 27,000 miles. I bought the vehicle with just over 30,000 miles (certified pre-owned).
2. On the day that I bought the vehicle, I noticed the issue and the service manager took it for a test drive with me. He told me it was wind buffeting that I was feeling. I thought that was bunk, but with it being a higher profile vehicle, it put some doubt in my mind. He went ahead and flashed something to reset the adaptive learning module that supposedly adjusts something in the engine based on how you drive. It seemed better after that, so I went ahead and bought it.
3. After a few weeks of driving it, it became clear to me that it was definitely not wind buffeting, so I scheduled a service appt. It was taken for an "extensive" test drive (according to the service record) with a diagnostic computer connected. Apparently, the service technician said they were only able to find one small blip with the mass airflow sensor, so they replaced it and called it fixed. I should also note that at no time, have any codes ever shown up when they check for error codes.
4. Although it seem slightly better, the problem still exists. Just for kicks, I dumped a bottle of Seafoam in the gas tank with my last fill up, but that doesn't seem to have made any difference.
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I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles. Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure.
Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still. The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it. What might be wrong with it?
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I have a 2008 F250 SD 5.4L with 335,000KM's(200,000+miles).
The engine light came on a few weeks ago and I cannot seem to get rid of it. I have also noticed when I'm accelerating hard at higher speeds/RPM's the engine light flashes?? After when I get to the cruising speed and let off the gas pedal the engine light stops flashing and stays solid. Also when accelerating hard there seems to be a hesitation, almost like the engine is choking itself. Once it gets passed the hesitation point during hard accelerating it seems fine? I have ran about 6 bottles of Seafood through the engine and gas tank. It definitely worked out but still has the hesitation, flashing engine light syndrome...I have changed the following with still no luck...
-Spark Plugs
-Coil on Plug
-Fuel Injectors
-Cam Phase sensors
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Had a constant CEL two week ago, the car was shaking because the misfire. I went to an european auto shop, it ended up with replacing the intake manifold valve and charged me $700. They explained the valve could not be closed, and that caused a misfire(s). There were three fault codes on report.
This week, I got another constant CEL. I went to the shop and they charged me $50 for scanning the code. and told me it is a misfire on Cylinder 2. there is no fault on intake manifold valve. They dont fix that for free. I went back home and open the engine cover. The ignition coil 2 was replaced. Now, I really doubt if they replaced my valve or not. maybe just changed the coil and reset the alarm.
I have swapped coil 2 and coil 3 to see if the fault follows the coil. How can I verify if they replaced my manifold valve?
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I just felt that my 2005 Santa fe shakes when idle in front of a traffic light today, later on the check engine light illuminated. Drove to a Monro shop right way and diagnosis using their professional OBD reader, it turns out that the Cylinder 3 and Cylinder 6 are misfiring according to the OBD scan result.
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I've been trying to track down a lack of power with my 7.3 for a few months now. I've had the truck for 8 years and there's just something off with it lately. When warm under a light load, such as accelerating while cruising at 40mph or going up a light hill at 30mph+, around 1100 to 1400rpm, there's just a distinct lack of power.
The engine starts lugging and the injector or valve noise increases dramatically until I push the throttle down far enough (60%+) for the transmission to downshift. Once it downshifts the engine sounds normal and takes off like it should.
At higher RPMs, it's seems to run okay, but it feels a bit down on power there. Otherwise, it starts great, idles pretty well with a slight miss, and no smoke that I've been able to see.
When it's dead cold in the morning, it seems to run better than any other time of the day.
I don't have any trouble codes other than a disconnected EPBV. One morning I did get P1670 when the engine nearly died when coming to a stop. I'm chalking that one up as a fluke due to a broken valve cover harness connector tab.
The truck has 170k miles and is mostly stock: AFE intake, 4" exhaust, and no muffler. It has an old Edge Evo programmer (yeah, yeah) that I removed a while back. I going to put it back on so I can monitor my EGTs.
The ICP, IPR%, and boost are all within spec. Buzz test sounds fine. CCT says #8 is bad with the grey CPS. Here's a datalog of a full throttle 70mph run.
[URL] ......
Recently I've decided to fix known problems:
HPOP line leak to the driver side bank
All Injector O-rings (black diesel in fuel bowl, suspicious oil consumption)
Replaced leaking intercooler couplers
EBP tube clogged, causing 0 boost sporadically, bypassed it by teeing into MAP sensor hose.
Various cam position sensors: grey (B), new dark blue (C)
Replaced leaking ICP sensor with generic sensor 6 months ago and unfortunately can't find original to test with. 2900psi without a tune seems a bit high, but reads consistently otherwise.
New fuel pump
Added service port to fuel bowl and measured 60-64psi at idle
Some things I have left to try:
Measure fuel pressure under load
Try out a parts store CPS I forgot I had.
Ziptie/secure broken valve cover harness connectors
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