While driving appx. 45mph with maybe one bar above center on Eco gauge. Engine would idle then rev, idle then rev, almost like it wanted to go ev but because the heat was on it wouldn't at the last second ...
View 5 RepliesI've made a video of the pumping sound in that seems to get "stuck on" repeatedly at occasional times while the car is in operation or at idle. What it is and if it should not be going on like this without stopping? The car is a 2004 Canadian model, assuming it has the coolant thermos.
View 4 Replies2002 Mazda MPV Engine Light comes on. At first I thought we left the gas cap off or did not tighten it down. I waited all week to see if the light would go out but no luck. I filled the tank up with gas and the light went out right away on start up. We drove the car for several days and the light went back on. I then filled the tank again and the light went right out on start up.
I thought it might be a bad gas cap so I replaced it. Again we drove the car for several more days and the light went on. Filled up again and lights out. We did notice that the light stayed off longer when the weather is colder. The light usually goes out with in the first 1/4 tank depending on how cold the days are.
The mechanic that is working on it now says the code is P0443. He checked everything mechanical finding nothing. Now he is claiming it is an electrical problem and needs more time $$$ to find it.
So I've just come back from the 5th time visiting the dealership for them to clear the "CHECK ENGINE" light off of my dash. Each time they've told me that it is my gas cap....so on the 4th time I bought a brand new gas cap. This time the car drove for 478kms...then the light came on again. I know they are just gonna say EVAP (gas cap issue).
What is the next step? What else could be tripping this fault?
Where I live people on the highway accelerate quickly. I try to stay in the EV range up to 15 mph but, when I do someone is up my rear end.
However, when I accelerate manually in EV mode I can accelerate up to 25 mph with the flow of traffic.
My concern with repeatedly accelerating up 25 mph in EV mode will be harder ( lessen the life ) on the battery or the transmission or the electric motors.
I'm guessing it's safe for the electric motors and the transmission because the plug in prius can accelerate up to 62 mph and it's fine.
However th
So is it 100% safe for the car to repeatedly accelerate out of EV mode?
Since Sept, my check engine light has come on a total of 6 times. Every time, I bring it into the dealership to get it fixed. The first time, they told me it was a loose gas cap. The next couple times they said that different codes were coming up, and they continually fix something (they've changed the sensor in the gas tank, changed the filter in the front and the back of the car), but nothing seems to do the trick. This last time, I got the car back right before Halloween, and the light came on. What the problem could be?
View 9 RepliesI've had this happen twice: I'm stopped at a light (on relatively level ground--only slight incline). My gas engine kicks off. OK, fine. As it should. But then it comes on again, maybe a second or two or maybe three or four later, while I'm still stopped. First time, it did this a few times back and forth, all while stopped, waiting for the light.
View 7 RepliesSo this doesn't begin until I put it into a forward gear, but after about 30 sec of smooth running, I will get a sudden momentary loss of power, then a surge, which repeats and intensifies as the van lurches forward until the engine finally stalls. Throwing it into N in the middle doesn't work. Babying the gas had no effect. It happened both at higher(2.5-3K) revs and at lower (.8-1.5k).
After killing the battery starting and restarting it just to keep it moving, I had it jumped, at which point I sat with it in P for 20 min to charge the battery and in all that time, it ran fine. I'd love to hear some possible diagnoses. Don't know if I should have it towed from where it's sitting, or try to drive it to the shop, or if it's something I can repair myself (think 1-star difficulty).
Trying to figure out whether to fix or scrap our 2005 Prius with 193,000 miles and a mysterious 12V battery problem. What would you do in my situation?
We've had a recurring problem with the 12V accessory battery: I have replaced it myself three times. The last failure was the most mysterious, because after replacing the 12V battery for the third time, I conducted nearly daily voltage tests using the Prius' "secret" vehicle signal check. Voltage coming off of the 12V was normal, if not high the entire time in all of the Prius's various starting and ready modes. I wired up a solar panel to trickle-charge the 12V battery when we weren't around, and we plugged the 12V in at night to a trickle charger to keep the battery topped up.
Nonetheless the day came a few months after the latest replacement when we had our usual 12V failure symptoms: the time on the clock started resetting, the car didn't turn on on the first press, the Prius computer rebooted, and eventually the car wouldn't start without a jump start. This has been super-frustrating, and googling around, I haven't been impressed by people's reported experiences trying to have the dealer try to resolve such problems. My worry is that a dealer repair person will change the accessory 12V battery without fixing the underlying problem. I would suspect a parasitic draw somewhere, but voltage tests when the car was overnighted without any kind of charging did not suggest a serious voltage draw on the 12V battery.
Other details about the car: our keyless entry hasn't worked for several years (dead batteries in the key fob?) and we open the car manually using the key each time. We stick the fob in the slot each time we want to start it. MPG is comparatively low vs. other Priuses, perhaps 44-45 MPG, and lower when the 12V battery starts to die (37-40). I have had the car serviced (oil, etc.) like clockwork every three months; recently, I've noticed the engine is starting to burn oil a bit (level is reported low on each change).
Most of the driving has been done in the flats and the heat of California's Central Valley, and we've put something like 120,000 miles on it just in the last five years. Besides the fact that the 12V battery keeps dying, the car has been very reliable.
We just inherited a free Prius with just 60,000 miles on it, and I have a 1993 Camry with 150k miles on the chassis and maybe 60k miles on the replacement engine I had dropped into it a few years ago. The Camry just passed California's smog test and seems to be running well. We don't want or need three cars.
Our choice is to try to fix the Prius with 193k miles on it and donate the Camry (which gets about 20 miles to the gallon, the horror...), or keep the Camry and donate the Prius. My instinct is to not drop thousands of dollars into the high-mileage Prius, especially if these issues might be pointing to a dying main battery.
My Father In Law bought a 2012 Prius C last year in Houston, they are from El Paso. The car drove great for many months, he takes the same path to work and same speed every day and was consistently getting over 60 mpg. All of a sudden winter came and he lost MPG and the engine would come on more often, even while parked. I own a 2009 Prius and told him mine did that too during the winter, because for some reason, during winter the battery drains while parked and the engine comes on to charge.
View 8 RepliesI have been experiencing a bad vibration in my engine during consistent RPM even at idle. It goes away during acceleration or letting off the pedal. I made a quick video.
-Video is still uploading at this point so... 30 minutes or so.
I have problem with my 2006 Prius , idle shaking and when the engine stops its really rough.
View 2 RepliesThe check engine light came on in my 05 so took my local shop and they checked the code and said it was the Idle Sensor. They were not able to make the repair. Since then the light went off for a few days then came back on. I now notice the gas motor does not turn off when I stop at a traffic light.
View 14 RepliesI recently noticed that when at idle, the engine is vibrating heavily. I know for sure it was really smooth and now as if there is something loose in there due to which it is vibrating. I don't know what is causing this i have always keep changing oil myself every 10k miles and transmission oil at every 30k.
View 19 RepliesMy 2007 prius has been idling very roughly recently. It seems to be every time the petrol engine kicks in when the main battery is low and charging. A few weeks back, the malfunction indicator light came on and i took it to the dealer. They said my spark plugs had a lot of carbon build up on them so they cleaned them up and put them back in. Also it was missfiring from time to time. The light went away but it is still idling rough if not rougher then before they cleaned the spark plugs. Its not just like that in the morning. Even if my car has been sitting in 40 degree celsius heat all day it still idles like that. They recommended I use better quallity fuel. I used to use E10 but when I was doing long drives, i filled up with normal unleded. I havent used E10 since then. It never had the rough idle problem when I was using E10 so I am curious to think my car may not like normal unleded. The fuel quality here in Brisbane Australia isnt known for its poor quallity. I'm not sure what to do next. People have recommeded for me to use Wynns Spitfire fuel treatment to keep the spark plugs and injectors clean.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 Prius with about 215K miles on it that has started with a new symptom. When stopped at a traffic light, the engine will come on and idle fast, then turn off again. It continues to do this for a few seconds then stops. It will not do it again for a few days then it will repeat the problem.
View 19 RepliesI own a stock 2008 Prius.
My car didn't move for 1-2 months so I needed a boost this morning. I noticed there's the check engine light on and a red triangle.
Also, the car won't go on electric mode.
I've noticed the last few days that my Prius seems to be dropping MPGs horridly (even worse than the typical winter drop). The engine will idle hard and loud when stopped sometimes or when braking even. I noticed this morning, when I am braking to a stop, the MPGs are registering at 75 or below and it's running when idling and it seems to be running the gas engine more. It will sometimes shut off at a stop light, but hardly at all the last few days regardless of if it's been running 5 minutes or over an hour.
I thought maybe it was because it's cold-- we've dipped to single digits, but have been above 30 or so the last week or two and has only happened in the past two or three days. It happens at start up and at the end of my hour long commute to work. I've turned off the defrost and heat and it still does this.
She's a 2005 and has just over 105,000 miles. I just had her oil changed, a fuel injection cleaning and spark plugs replaced two days ago and had the inverter serviced and recommended transmission work done at 100,000 miles. Her water pump was replaced in the last year with the recall. I just replaced the air filter. There are no warning lights, so I"m not sure if anything would show up with the codes. I'm worried because it did not do this previously, and started to as soon as I got the car back from the injector cleanings and plug work...
Had a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
When the car runs at a certain RPM during idle, the door panel rattles/buzzes. This is usually when the car is first started. The idle speed changes at some point as it warms up and then it no longer rattles. Sometimes it also buzzes during acceleration when the engine hits a certain RPM or when driving on coarse spots in the road.
It has been very difficult to reproduce it at the dealership because there seems to be no way to control when the engine runs and to control the RPM. On top of that, it is affected by ambient temperature. If it is isn't cold enough, it doesn't happen. Is there any way to manually control starting and revving the engine? Is there any well-known issue that causes this or a known fix for the buzzing?
I am having problems with my Prius. I have a 2011 prius with 145000 miles. I also have issues with the engine shakes initial idle and goes away with check engine light saying 2 & 4 misfire. Also I had a couple off issues where I was at a dead stop and when I accelerate the engine would feel like it Boggs and shakes from 0-20 mph then go away after. From 20-80 mph it's perfectly fine.
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