Prius V :: Engine Knock If Not Warmed Up Upon Previous ICE Start
Jan 18, 2015
I know this issue has been posted and discussed multiple times on early Gen 3 Prius'. That said, I don't see much on it regarding the Prius v ( lowercase v for the Prius v wagon, not an uppercase ). There is also of course a TSB for earlier Prius' that had the issue.
I can readily replicate the issue in that almost every time I 'think' it may happen the next time I start the vehicle, it does in fact do so.
If I move the vehicle from the garage to the driveway or around in the driveway to clear snow, the ICE fires for a few seconds then I shut it off as the car is where I need it. Upon the next ICE start, there is a horrible knocking under the hood somewhere. Different from the previous messages and the TSB itself is that I never get an error code or MIL.
I'm to the point where if I move the car, I let it warm up completely. I figure I'm better off wasting fuel than subjecting my Prius to whatever horrible thing is happening under the hood if I don't.
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With about 32K miles, I started getting a knock in the morning that would go away when warmed up. When I took the car in for service, I mentioned it and the service adviser said, it sounds like the timing chain tensioner leaking down, we have seen that.
Well it was not the tensioners, I was informed that, it was low oil pressure that did NOT trigger the oil light or any warnings, and my main bearings and a rod bearing were shot, it seems that the oil pump was not putting out as it should. Supposedly, it was only putting out 10 PSI. Oddly enough once the engine warmed up, there was no lifter/tappet noise that would indicate low oil pressure that I have experienced in the past with other engines.
The oil has been changed on time, the oil was clean, and the engine was not abused. Other than this the car ran fine. So the short block was replaced under warranty. This is a 3.5 V6.
This is quite disturbing, that some type of low oil pressure message or idiot light was not flashing on my dash. I have seen oil pumps from other manufacturers produce low oil pressure if the pressure relieve valve was stuck open.
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OK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
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3.5 has engine knock coming from oil pan, gets louder when engine fully warmed up. Suspect connecting rod bearings. 99 Intrigue has 203K on it and otherwise in excellant condition. Is it possible to replace connecting rod bearings with engine in car. What is involved in removing lower crankcase after oil pan is removed. Car has been trouble free so far and would like to get another 60K out of it
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I just bought this truck yesterday. During the test drive and everything it seemed all fine. After all the paperwork and the truck was actually mine. I noticed once it is all warmed up it seems to have a slight knock/tick? and a slight miss to it. I shot a couple videos, one up underneath where it sounds like most of the noise is coming from. Could it be an exhaust leak? Or is it something internal? Like the Cam Phasers, or a rod or something!
Here is a video around the exhaust area.
Here is up underneath the truck.
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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Over the past few week my truck has developed a knock once it has fully warmed up. At first I thought it was possibly injector knock and kind of got excited about the prospect of upgrading to larger injectors. Well, my short lived optimism came to an end today once I got ahold of my father's mechanics stethoscope. So today I let it fully warm up and like clock work the knock came back. After going over nearly every inch of the top end, nothing was producing what I was hearing.
So I crawled under the beast and located the source. Right where the bellhousing mates the the engine block is where the knock is definitely loudest. At first I thought it was louder in while in gear but today it didn't matter if it was in gear or not. I removed the bellhousing cover and inspected what I could see of the flexplate. Couldn't see and cracks or breaks but from what I see through google searches is that it cracks behind the spacer. Now my first thought is that it's the flexplate but I'm hoping more experienced people can tell me what they think.
[URL] ....
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Bought a used 2007 Gen II in 2009, and have since that time been very happy and had few issues. However, lately I have noticed some problems that are very disruptive, and am concerned they may be indicating a bigger issue ahead.
I rely very heavily on the GPS, using it every time I drive. In the past few months, I have noticed that sometimes when I start the car, all of my "Previous Destinations" have completely disappeared, and it says "no previous destinations"! Which is insane, because I have been accumulating previous destinations for 6 years now! It is hugely disruptive for me to find these gone, because I reuse many a few times but don't want to save all of them to "My Places." Strangely, My Places are still there, not deleted. The deleted destinations never come back, and I have to painstakingly enter all my addresses again, which is difficult for me because of a disability. In the past few months, this has happened 3 or 4 times! When this happens, the region is also always reselected to zone 9, which I am not in (not sure if that's where the first owner lived?), so I always have to enter everything in all over again.
A few years ago I had to replace the 12V battery, and I can understand why I lost all my memory in that instance. But the battery should be fine.
I have also noticed a few other strange occurrences in the past few months, which may or may not be related. There are times when suddenly the key fob does not work, and I cannot get into the car. The battery is new, so it's not that. I was worried it might indicate an electrical problem, because also a few times now I have gone to start the car and it goes into battery mode instead of turning over - as in, the indicators and lights come up, but the car doesn't start. Fortunately, when I turn it off and start again it has resolved. A few other times, I have started the car and the buttons seem to be crossed - pressing Destination leads to Audio, pressing Menu leads to Map, etc. Again, fortunately I restarted the car and all buttons worked normally again. Same thing, once I started the car and the screen did not turn on at all, just stayed black. Restarted, and it was back on.
So I am wondering what these sudden destination deletions might mean in this context. I am very far away from a dealership, and can't afford a major work-up if it's not necessary. A few possibilities I considered are that the destination cache might zero out when I have not used the car for an extended period. I don't drive every day, and there are some times when I don't use the car for 2 weeks or a little more. I also live in a location by the ocean, and so I have wondered if perhaps the salt air is corroding my electronics. I have tried to rinse the underside of the cab with fresh water every few weeks, but other than that I don't know what I could do to prevent salt damage.
Maybe what's going on with the NAV is totally unrelated to these things, and can be solved simply in another way. I have no clue really what's going on. But I don't want to have to deal with this again. And, if there is reason to think a serious electrical or other problem might be imminent, I would like to know that so I can take care of it before the car gets totaled, because I'd really like to keep my Prius for a long time if I could!
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Been having this problem since this past Easter when our mechanic installed new valve cover gaskets.
When the van is hot (normal operating temperature) and you turn it off just for a minute, like to get gas, and try and restart it acts like it’s not getting enough gas. It will cough and sputter and balk. It will finally start though and after 30 second all will calm down and it will run fine.
One big problem is, is that is intermittent – meaning it won’t mess up for the mechanic and putting it on the computer shows nothing wrong.
One mechanic said it was a cracked distributor. Replaced that for $400. and same problem. I’ve also cleaned the Mas Air Flow sensor and changed the fuel filter.
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'92 Dynasty is a good runner, but, once the engine gets warmed up, I shut off the engine at my own risk. If the car sits for a while with the hood open, it will start again, but attempting to start immediately after shutting off will result in the engine spinning over but no sounds of attempted ignition. It seems that once the coil is cooled down to slightly more than body temp the engine will start like nothing was wrong.
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I had my wallet and key stolen and my spare has somehow gone missing too. A dealership has quoted me half hour to program and an hour and half to reseed.
One of the things I was told is I need the reseed to cancel any previous fobs the car was programmed to. I don't care if the old fob is out there and could be used for my car. If this is the only reason for reseed I don't want it.
I am confused. Somewhere I think I read that if you don't have any keys then you'll need a reseed no matter what.
I had the black logo fob, not a proximity one.
Why a reseed needs to be done when you have no key to go off, or why you don't.
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I need to have my DSG checked out.. Extremely jerky starting out in first gear when very hot out and engine warmed up --most noticeable when just easy on the accelerator. Need to get the ok for mechanotronic replacement. Who to trust for a reliable job and evaluation of the problem.
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When engine is cold it starts fine, when hot from driving (e.g. the engine's temperature display's needle is in the middle) i cannot start it unless i try 3-4 LONG keys. What can it be? Where should i start?
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On my UK Prius with Nav (uses HDD for Nav System, and includes a DVD / CD reader too), I put my music in MP3 format on a DVD-RW for convenience.
When I turn off the audio by hitting the audio power button, and then turn it back on later the music resumes from a previous point. How far it goes back seems to vary enormously from 10 seconds to 10 minutes (so doubt it goes back by X KBytes for example).
How this is determined, or if I can alter it in some way?
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Sometimes when I start up my 1500, I hear a quick knock. It knocks like four times and then goes away. Any input?
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I now have 500 Miles on my LE. Driven soft Never over 2,500 rpm except, one time I accelerated to 4,500 RPM in first. Short 5 Mile trips.
Engine knock on start-up (Lasts one second)
sounds like a lifter pumping up.
Only happens occasionally.
Happened last night after driving 40 Miles and parking it for two hours.
Is this normal? I have noticed this since the first 10 Miles on the odometer. Figured it was the 0W-20 Oil.
My friend has a 2003 Echo with 100,000 miles and it does not do this.
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We use the EV mode when going home for last quarter mile because its mostly downhill so for fun have the electric motor tow us home. What is "quirky" about this mode is sometimes EV won't engage even if big battery is full, gas engine is warmed up.
We know that going faster than 25mph cancels the EV and that short trips prevent EV from engaging. Other times EV just cancel citing excessive speed when we are going 10-15mph. So this is no problem but wondered what the parameters are for EV engaging and dis-engaging.
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I have a Ford Ranger 4wd, 2000 120k. Ran well, great shape, reliable and quiet running. Oil pan leaked and I got tired of going under and used Devcon in attempts to stop leak..reoccurring issue. So I get new 0il pan. Started it up following morning after driving errands and home from shop and saw a cloud of smoke on start up never seen before, cleared away and didn't think about it again. Drive round trip for about 70 miles and while driving at slow speeds back in town, the oil gauge started pinging back and forth, and the knocking started. By the time I got home I do not dare to drive it anywhere as while the oil gauge does not fluctuate anymore the rapping has increased. What could have started this chain of events? Can I expect the garage to replace the engine? Vehicle is worth 4k replacing engine probably 3K..while a beautiful useful truck body sits in yard is it really worth it? Bad draw on the cards?
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Specs: 2003 Ranger Edge / 3.0 V6 / 5-speed 4WD / 238,000 miles
Yesterday my truck was in the shop for repair. Intake gasket, Transmission fluid change, all heater hoses, thermostat, serp belt and coolant flush. When I picked it up from the shop, which was after closing, I noticed a knocking on start up. From past experience on a different truck, it sounds like a cam that isn't oiling. After a few minutes the knock goes away. I drove for a few miles, turned off the engine and started it back up and no knock this time. This morning I started it, knock was back but went away after a few minutes. Oil was changed about 1500 miles ago. Running pennzoil 5/20 with a K&N filter. Up until yesterday the engine has been completely quiet. Was wonder if something may have clogged the filter or the drain back valve.
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My Prius has been sitting in the fridged weather in my driveway. It's Tuesday and the temperature is currently 18F. The last time I drove this car was two days ago on Sunday.
I started it up a few minute ago and heard a HORRIBLE knock or slap from the engine bay. It alarmed me to the point where I wanted to run in and grab my camera but I tried listening to understand what it could be. At first I thought it might be a belt came loose and was whipping around hitting the components but it went away after about 30-40 seconds. It was so loud that I thought the neighbor two doors down who was shoveling snow could hear it.
I will let it sit overnight and will definitely capture this on video in the morning. I have a feeling the noise will be back.
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I once experienced the noisy engine start up.. It sounded like the engine was trying to run backwards or severe pre-ignition.
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