Prius V :: Driveline Chatter As It Makes Transition From Electric To Gas
Dec 11, 2011
I'm new to Prius V ownership. Just bought it a month ago. I do have a question regarding what I can best describe as driveline chatter. It seems that when I slow down to a point where the EV mode takes over and then speed up again, the Prius will chatter as it makes the transition from electric to gas. Is this a normal thing for a Prius to do. It goes away after the pedal is further depressed and doesn't last for long. It seems just at the transition from EV to ECO (engine) mode.
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Just wondering how many other C owners are experiencing harsh transition when the hydraulic brakes take over, just as the car comes to a stop, when it's wet outside...
There's a delicate balance just when you're coming to a stop with mild pedal pressure. MG2 regen. braking tapers off, and at the same time, the hydraulic brake system applies the brakes. Do this at a low enough speed, with little pressure, like creeping forward in traffic, and the brakes grab pretty harshly...
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I have been driving 2013 model for five months. I noticed that whenever any front wheel rolls over cat-eye on the road and any sudden small bump then it generates noticeable clicking sound. I went to the dealer and they said it is normal and comes with all such cars.
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Drove my wife's 4motion today after having drove it a few days ago,didn't really notice anything unusual,then ......but today going around a curve at highway speed(app.55-65mph) went over a small (low) but the length of the lane paved strip and it acted like it had a solid rear axle instead of the indi rear ,showing up as an uneven rough transition ,than the usual nice unoticable smooth ride it had for years,...what rear suspension item would create that if it were broke/failed, Didn't notice any other strange behavior or noises on straights or curves w/o bumps.
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I find that I often don't get smooth shifts; mostly to 2nd and 3rd. By this I mean I notice a gravel like transition between the gates. Doesn't happen all the time but I wonder if it's how I'm shifting versus the car. Or maybe the RPMs I shift at.
I did ask dealer to take a look and they said smooth and normal to them. I generally will shift when shift advice pops up on display. Also. I've noticed it doesn't happen as much if I pause the shift at the neutral point versus a single push gear to gear. Clutch is always to the floor for the entirety of the shift.
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Ever since I picked up my V8 Touareg I've noticed that the transition from stopped to starting can sometimes be rough, and that the shift from 1st to 2nd is often a fairly violent jerk. The worst transmission problem on my Touareg is experienced when I'm in stop-and-go traffic going around 5mpg in 1st gear then accelerate normally. The shift to 2nd is extremely rough.
I took my Touareg into the shop last week to fix this, and another problem I was having, and the car is still at the dealer. When I talked to my service advisor on Friday he said that this is a fairly common problem with later VIN cars. Evidently, they had to reprogram the transmission to meet some EPA regulation and that is causing rough shifting in the lower gears.
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From a dead stop it takes a second to go and isn't super smooth, slightly jerky. Seems fine for all other gears, just from dead stop it isn't a smooth transition into 1st gear. Is this typical of DSG or no?
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Is it necessary to change the transition fluid every 60,000 miles?
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I have recently done a battery disconnect hoping the issue was a glitch in the ecu/tcu as this has solved some clunkiness in my old audi. But the issue is till there.
I also went ahead and did a fluid change of the transmission at the dealer.
The issue is intermittent and the rpms just rev up slightly only on the 3rd and 4th transition and like I mentioned it is an intermittent issue.
I have read something about adjusting bands to the transmission? Is this solution applicable to the 05 solara v6 tranny? The old transmission fluid was pink and not black or burnt.
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I have a vacuum leak. That's clear. When I put the truck in 4WD the air vents to the defrost after a slow (15-20 s) transition. The only way I can get the air to come back to the dash vents is to disengage 4x4. Of course, the auto-lockers aren't working. I can trouble shoot the vacuum lines and find the leak. No big deal.
I've isolated it downstream of the vacuum reservoir. It could be the PVH solenoid but at least the reservoir side holds pressure.
My concern is the noticeably poor A/C performance. It cycles between kinda cool and kinda warm. I remember the A/C being ice cold a few weeks ago.
Could the vacuum leak in 4x4 vacuum lines be related to the A/C problems? I'm thinking blend door vacuum issues. But I can't even find the blend door vacuum lines.
How do I know if my blend door is fully open/closed? Are there any other place to look that can cut down on my troubleshooting?
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I just bought a used automatic MM with 137k miles. Engine and interior super clean. I did test drive and it seemed to pull back a bit and rev harder when I was starting out from a stop or in intermittent traffic where I was slowing down and speeding up with flow of traffic. It also does it worse on hills. The guy from the car lot said it was the way I was driving the car...hmmmm...I'm not a lead foot. I let the car ease into higher speeds, I don't punch it. Ever.
Yesterday I took a longer drive and had other people in the car with me who also noticed the rough transitions between low gears and asked if that was "normal." NOT being a car mechanic I get alarmed when others are pointing something I too thought could be at issue. I bought the car "as is" after doing some online research and finding out that these car's even at this age get 4.5 to 5 star ratings from people who have them.
I took it to Auto Zone and they put the little code reader on the car but no codes came up. His suggestion was to have all the fluids changed in case someone put the wrong weight of transmission fluid in the car. I did check the fluid at the car lot and it was bright pink and at correct levels. Not sure that's what it is. He also suggested the possibility of it being a "shift cellinoid"?
I don't know what that is but he said it shouldn't be expensive to fix. He also suggested getting the transmission serviced to see if that might solve it. Someone else suggested "clean the IAC hole and throttle plate with choke cleaner..." don't know what that is? Someone else said to consider a vacuum leak in the fresh air tube between the air filter box and the throttle body...these are all just guesses.
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Today, it is around 25 degrees F here, and I drove my prius C for 5 minutes or so before turning on the heater. To my surprise, the heater had already "warmed up" and the air coming from the vents was warm. Does the electric heater element warm up when it is cold outside even when the heater isn't turned on? Don't know if it matters, but I was in Eco mode at the time.
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Problem we experienced today with our 06 Prius - 63k miles. Up to this point, the car has been completely trouble-free. Abruptly, there was an extremely strong, foul electric-like smell throughout the cabin. No sudden acceleration, not pulling any heavy loads, no out of the ordinary driving. The weather was in the low 60s today. No a/c or heat being used at the time. The smell persists or becomes even stronger after the car sits turned off for several hours. the battery vent was not blocked, but the smell does appear to be stronger at the vent. The smell is so strong that we can't tolerate sitting in the car.
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I hear a distinctive electric motor noise similar to the electric antenna noise in our 4Runner , almost always immediately after applying the brakes (no matter whether hard or soft). The noise lasts maybe one or two seconds.
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I ventured into the garage late last night and heard a whirring noise like an electric motor coming from my Prius. I didn't have my smart key with me. I checked the doors to see if any were ajar. The whirring kept going. After a few minutes, it stopped.
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Does the gen 3 prius use electric motor only when in reverse? Reason I'm asking is that, I was in reverse and didn't see a rock that prevented me to move and keep pressing on the gas pedal and got no response and throttle response was zero even on the HSI screen. Had to move forward and back to reverse to gain momentum to go over the rock. Just a weird feeling knowing that the gas motor didn't even kick in even when pressing on the gas pedal.
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Vibration/shuttering feeling when on electric driving at low speeds 5mph or less or when letting car pull itself under creep in reverse/forward gears. it is almost like your driving over a rumble strip at low speed with no unusual sounds or noises. just feels a little jerky. it has been doing this since i got the car a year ago and no codes are thrown. trans fluid was changed about 5k miles ago at 87k and there was no unusual coloring, or metal in the fluid or on the plug. it was darker red but not burnt or foul smelling by any means. could this be a loose cv joint or drive shaft?
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Got our 2012 package 5 lesss than a month ago, so we haven't had much opportunity to use the rear defroster. The two times I have used it I noticed that it works well on the upper rear window, but the glass below the rear spoiler doesn't seem to be clearing. The red/orange "wires" are visible in the glass, but don't appear to do anything. Wasn't planning to head back to the dealer until first service since we haven't had any other problems, but this could be annoying with the winter weather.
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My car has around 160k miles on it and for the past 30k miles (give or take) I have had a jerking sensation when the car switches from gas to electric. It is a stronger jerk at low speeds and more like a shimmy at 40-50 mph. It has progressively gotten worse with time, I mean it's by all means drivable but I have been trying to figure out what could be wrong before it has to be replaced and I'm on the side of the road.
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I'm driving a 2007 Prius [Gen II?] with 92k miles on her. I was told my belt has cracks and I should change it, and I've read about converting it to an electric pump. I've read the Prius C uses the same engine, and it has an electric pump. I THOUGHT I read about people putting them in the older models...
What do I need to know? Is there a controller board I need? How does it work? [Life compared to the belt driven model]Side effects? [Accel? Fuel economy? Anything else?]
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We've owned our 07 since purchased new in 06. It's always made this noise, but it used to be for a short period of time (1-2 min). Now it goes on and on for 5-10 min. It sounds like it's getting "stuck" and starting the cycle over.
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