Prius V :: Battery Fried And Dome Light Caused Wiring To Overheat
Apr 18, 2015
I have a prius v, bought July 2014. Car was on the showroom floor and needed jumped and to sit on the charger for awhile before they'd let me take it home. The dome light got left on this past weekend 4/11-4/12/15 for about 28-30 hrs. The next day it wouldn't start, had it towed. The tow truck driver could get the lights to turn on and everything power on inside, but the engine. It wouldn't do anything. We got it into neutral. It would only go into neutral and park. Toyota said the battery was completely fried which they replaced under warranty. They then said due to the dome light being on, causing the wiring to overheat and fried the wiring. I need to replace all the wiring which isn't covered under warranty. Is this normal?
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I've just returned from a late-night walk, where I discovered I'd left on the dome (interior ceiling) light in my 20-year-old car (soon to be replaced by a Prius c Two!) about a half-hour previously. I thought: if I hadn't noticed my mistake, tomorrow morning the battery would probably be dead!
Could this happen with a Prius c? Or is there a sensor that automatically douses any interior light(s) after, say, 15 minutes?
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My dome light does not work and door ajar light is always on. I cant even turn the light with the switch on the side. Just don't know where to start. Do you think it is a switch on one of the doors? I have tried spraying cleaner and WD40 in there but it has not worked. Its been this way since I bought the truck but it is starting to drive me crazy....
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I just purchased a 2006 E-350 15 passenger van. ~85000 miles. As soon as any door (except the very back door) opens, the dome light comes on, as expected. However, when you close the door, the light doesn't go off. There are two ways I've found to make the light go off:
1. Reach a speed of 10mph
2. Wait several minutes (i haven't timed it yet, maybe 10 min?) without opening a door
I've read that the keyless entry remote can control this, but this van isn't equipped with keyless entry. There must be some factory setting that can be adjusted. Also, any thoughts on adding an aux jack to the stock AM/FM/CD stereo? Maybe I should bite the bullet and install an after-market deck?
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I can't find out why my dome light doesn't work. I threw a bulb at it first, and then a tester but found no voltage with the door open or the dome lights dimmer roller clicked over to "interior lights on". I do get a door chime with the door open, so seemingly the door switch is working. Fuses 4 and 14 are good. They seem to be the related fuses.
Here's what I've checked.
1.. Fuses are all good.
2.. Removed and tested the relay. It tested properly, closing the large contacts when voltage is applied across the two coil terminals.
3.. 12V is present at the large left contact in the relay plug.
4.. I applied voltage to the relay output pin (the large contact next to ^^) in the fuse panel and get the dome/cargo lights to illuminate, so I know the wiring from the relay to the lights is good.
5.. The two smaller relay pins upper and lower look to be the relay coil/turn on contacts. (The middle contact is not used) There is 12v on one of them and it seems the other should be grounded with a door open or when the dash roller is rolled past the detent. I'm not getting this grounding signal.
6.. I do get a warning chime if I open the door while headlights are on etc, so it looks like the door switches are working.
Just got back in from some more testing... Here's a breakdown of how the relay works:
- Relay socket we're looking at is the upper socket.
- High amp 12V power is on the left large vertical contact. The relay's function is to port this voltage to the middle large vertical contact. (the load contact)
- The middle vertical contact (load contact) goes to the dome light and cargo lights.
- The upper horizontal contact is one end of the relay throw coil. This one has 12V present when probed.
- The middle horizontal contact is not used. (actually it's an empty socket with no female terminal behind it.)
- The lower horizontal contact needs ground applied to it to get the throw coil to close the high amp contacts.
With the relay plugged in, I was able to sneak a thin probe to the lower horizontal contact and ground it. The relay activated and the lights came on. So, for some reason I'm not getting the grounding signal to the relay with the dome light rocker or the doors open even though I get the door chime.
Apparently there is something between the door switches and the dome light/roller switch and the relay? Is this the GEM module? If so, I don't see the reason for anything between the switches and the relay? It should be a pretty basic relay circuit?
Is this something (GEM?) programmable, or testable? I don't want to throw parts at it. Looking for a wiring diagram, a diagnostic flow chart or a pin out?
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On a 2008 E250, Where is the dome light wire and what color is it? To use with an omega security system.
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I would like to add an LED light to each running board and tie it in with the dome light wiring so that when the door(s) are opened it will come on with the dome light and light up the factory running board. Any info on where a good place to splice into the wiring, and will the wiring be able to handle a couple extra lights?
The truck is a 2012 F-350 XL, SD Dually....
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My Viper 2 way alarm, instead of the brain being wired to each of the 4 doors individually. The installer ran 1 wire to the dome light. Seems to work fine as far as arming/disarming/locking/unlocking, but since the dome light stays on for 10 seconds or whatever after the door is shut, when i arm it.
The 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but there's a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.
Can I change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? I want there to be NO delay, if possible. If not, I may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.
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I'm having a problem with my interior dome light and my door chime bell not working in my '01 F-250. I found that the bulb was blown,so I replaced it thinking it might fix the door chime bell also, thinking they were wired together from the factory.
The new bulb didn't fix the problem. I recall that when I noticed the door bell didn't ding-ding anymore was about the time(when it got dark), that I noticed the dome light was out also.
What I may check? The fuses all work, the interior dome relay switch works and I see nothing else in the owners manual to look for as far as dome lighting and door bell chime.
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Two Issues....
1.My rear dome lights work when manually turned on. They do not come on when the door is opened. However, the front dome lights do.
2.The lights on my side mirrors turn blink when using the turn signal, and when hitting the lock/unlock/remote start buttons. They do not work when driving around with my head lights on.
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i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
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So a truck that was running fine Sat for 2 weeks. Battery died so i sent some coworkers to jump it. They tried using a welder which they didn't get turned down enough. Now the wiper motor stays on even without the key. Radio doesn't work but the dash light still comes on. With a new battery installed it turns over but doesn't start. I know something had to get fried but where to start. Thinking about replacing all fuses and relays...
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Prius, 08, smart key. Dead on Sunday am, nothing works. Put trickle on the underhood positive and neg to body bolt. Got enough juice to open rear hatch (and dome light comes on ).
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Last summer I had a catastrophic experience on a family vacation when my wife's 2012 Prius overheated on the highway and lost power. The dealer that we limped into kept it for a week and couldn't find any concrete problem, except to say that since it was a salvage vehicle rebuilt without Toyota brand parts, that all of the cooling system would need to be replaced. I waited until we barely made it home and had my mechanic replace the inverter pump.
Since then the "hybrid system overheat" warning light comes on regularly, especially when driving up a long climb, even in moderate weather. There are no codes. Is it possible that there is air in the lines? My mechanic says that it feels like the inverter pump is working, tho I don't see turbulence in ready mode. A link to bleeding the air?
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I was getting a check engine light with a P1112 code, so I had a mechanic replace the coolant flow control valve. There's a TSB on that and it seems to be the thing to do. But after the replacement, I'm getting overheat warning light whenever the engine needs to work hard. Also, the cabin heater only works when the gasoline engine is not running... when the engine is off, I get heat (though it's not as hot as I'd think when I have it on max heat), but when the gas engine kicks in, the cabin heat disappears.
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Gen3 Prius. Once it turned 100k miles I took it in for an inverter coolant change per the maintenance schedule. The dealer charged $109 for this and the car had absolutely no issues prior. Got the coolant changed on 7/23 and then drove it short distances in town for two weeks with no issues. Once I drove it on weekend longer road trip got a check engine light P0A93 "inverter A cooling system performance". Shortly there after started getting hybrid overheat alerts and pulled over to let it cool.
I checked the inverter coolant reservoir and it was still above full. After letting things cool, I turned it back on and listened to the water pump. Seemed to be running fine, heard it clearly with my ear up to a long screw driver, touching the pump. Noticed that the hose leading to the pump was vibrating but the return hose out of the inverted was not. Also no turbulence in the reservoir. My guess is that they didn't bleed air out of the system.
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Is the battery draining if you leave the door open all the way with dome light off?
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On a 1999 Excursion with a v10. I've got a strange problem. When the truck is left overnight, the battery is dead. Doing some testing, the is a serious draw through the dome light circuit that controls the Gem and the Tail Lights. If I pull that fuse each night, then the battery is fine. But I can't leave that fuse out, as the shifter interlock switch is disabled by this fuse. All the tail lights seem to work fine.
Dome lights do not come on. I've tested the bulbs. They're good. There is now power it seems to the dome light sockets. The door ajar light works, so I'm guessing all the switches are good.
I also have no power windows working. There is no 12v to the switch. But I heard about the Gem module as well. So I'm not sure if the Gem controls if there should be 12v to the switch all the time.
I pulled out the Gem. It looks good. No sign of corrosion or water.
Any thoughts on what to look for or how to troubleshoot this? Is there a way to test a Gem? Would a bad Gem cause the battery draw down?
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I was driving (about 800 km), when suddenly I realised that some strange smell is going out from my car's boot. When I checked, I found out that Vehicle Power Supply Battery was hot, making some strange noise (like hissing), plus I saw that the battery exterior wall (towards to the trunk) was waved like it was overheated. But because all these stuff happened in the middle of my way, I could do nothing, so I continued my driving.
After 300 km I felt huge impact, I realized that I lost my 6th and 5th gears, after some time I realized that I lost 4th gear. That I stoped just in case not to break something. When I tried to start the engine, It didn't started, so I understand that all problems was besause Vehicle Power Supply Battery was drained.
As I mentioned before, all these stuff was in the middle of highway, therefore I took the wires (crocodile), connected Starter battery with Vehicle Power Supply Battery and managed to start the car's engine and get to the City of Prague. I took out the Vehicle Power Supply Battery, opened battery cells and found out that all of them were dry, no acid at all.
My question is - could it be that the Vehicle Power Supply Battery was overcharged (overheated) because of some mistake of battery charge controller and all acid just go away in some way?
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2005 Ranger XL 2.3L 5 speed 2WD 305,000 miles. Alternator has about 100,000 miles on it.
Battery light came on about 0400 and 50 miles into my daily 90 mile drive to work, made it to work. After the truck cooled down for 3 hours and I got time I checked the battery voltage 12.6VDC and started the engine and the system is charging at 14.2VDC with no battery light on (battery light out when cold). Serpentine belt looks good, dry weather.
Other than alternator nearing end of life and being warm is there anything else that may cause battery light to come on.
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After returning from vacation, I found that one door of my 2007 Prius was left open while we were gone. I tried jumping the car. Long story short, I accidentally reversed the polarity and fried the main fuse block. I just replaced the fuse this last weekend and it's been running fine.
Until today
I drove to work and everything was fine. Then at lunch I got in the card and started it up. The red triangle came on with the exclamation point. Also the VSC light and the orange exclamation point in the Circle with the ( ) around it.
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