Prius V :: 2013 - Car Shudder When Accelerating
Apr 20, 2015
About 20000 miles on it, had dealer service a couple weeks ago. Going to a friends this evening. Stopped at an intersection when accelerating again, there was a shudder for a second, different than the normal motor start up. Then I noticed the CEL light and the Hybrid system light were on. No place to pull off the road so continued on about 1/2 mile to the friends condo and pulling in the parking lot it seemed like the engine was in safe mode, reduced power, so parked it there and got a ride home.
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2006 Prius ...
Symptoms: The shudder feels like going over a "washboard" dirt road. It mimics the normal "cough / hesitation" that occasionally happens when the MG2 switches to the ICE while accelerating, or vice versa at a stop light. However, unlike the normal switching, this is continuous. It ONLY happens when accelerating; as soon as I lift my foot from the gas, the shudder quits. Although it is worse in stop-and-go, it is also noticeable on a clear freeway. It is worse with a cold engine, but continues from speeds of 10 mph all the way up to 80 mph (and probably higher.) The shudder is slower at lower speeds, and faster at higher speeds. It is most dramatic when making a left turn from a dead stop - the whole vehicle shakes. Weather conditions vary, but usually it happens on dry, paved roads, anywhere from 30-degrees to 75-degrees (F).
Frequency: first noticed a few months ago, gradually becoming more frequent. Now, it is almost every time the car is started. (Sometimes it accelerates without any problem at all.)
Diagnostics: The "Check Engine" light has been on for about 5 years (dealerships couldn't find anything wrong and it turned out to be the MG1 battery.) But when this new shuddering happens, the "Check Engine" light blinks continuously until the shuddering quits (i.e. let off the gas or brake.) There are no other indicator lights on (no triangle of death). And the diagnostics mode tells me nothing.
Other Info: The MG2 battery has not been replaced in the entire life of the vehicle. The MG1 battery was replaced, however, about 2 years ago. Regular oil changes have been kept up, along with air filter replacements, brake pad replacements, tire rotations, and all the other standard maintenance. It has had one owner, and is at 255,000 miles. MPG is currently at about 44.4 and has not changed since this problem started.
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Well, my MIL came on, and hasn't left (yes, my gas cap was tightened). My bigger concern is that when I'm on the highway, if I have to slow down for traffic, upon accelerating again, when I hit 108km/h, the car does a crazy death shudder, and slows down...I have to release the pedal, let it slow to around 95, and then I can accelerate again. I'm gunna wait and see if the light goes off after a couple of days, but this is worrying.
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Took my 06 Outback (106K miles) in to have the right front inner & outer CV boots/axle assembly replaced (one of the boots had torn open and was slinging grease everywhere, so no surprise there). When I was driving home after picking the car up, I noticed what felt like a wobble or shudder that seemed to come from the center or right side of the car (I couldn't tell which). It would only happen while accelerating, kicking in at about 20mph and then seeming to go away at about 30mph. It didn't happen at all while coasting, braking, or decelerating. The more of a load there was on the engine, the worse the wobble/shudder was, and if I accelerated very very slowly it wouldn't happen at all or would be just barely perceptable. I didn't feel it in the steering wheel; it was more like something felt through the seat and the car itself, if that makes sense.
So I took the car back to the shop the next day, and although the owner of the shop said he drove the car and didn't notice anything, he decided to go ahead and do the job over under warranty just in case they had installed a bad axle or had otherwise "botched" (my word, not his) the job. He also rotated and rebalanced the tires on the off chance that's where the issue was. Within about 15-20 minutes of picking up the car the 2nd time, I started noticing the wobble/shudder again, always under the same conditions as I've already noted--only while accelerating, always kicking in at about 20mph and going away at about 30mph, and always worse the more of a load there was on the engine/the faster the acceleration. The only additional info I've been able to glean is that it doesn't ever seem to happen when I drive the car first thing in the morning, but starts to happen as the car warms up.
At a complete loss, I crawled under the car and starting looking and poking around for something that might be loose or knocking around. I was particularly interested in determining if there was any play in the U-joints or some kind of damage to the drive shaft. I didn't notice anything except for this--at different points on the drive shaft there are what I assume are balancing weights welded to the shaft. Well, I found a bare spot toward the rear end of the shaft that seems as if a weight used to be there (although I can't say with 100% certainty). The drive shaft is painted entirely black, as are the weights, except for this one shiny, bare-metal, square-shaped spot. "AHA" I thought to myself...balancing weight broke off (although how that would happen beats the heck out of me since it's fairly well-shielded from road debris...maybe it was just a cr@ppy weld), now the shaft is out of balance, hence the wobble/shudder. However, the more I thought about it, the more I wondered...if the shaft was out of balance, why would it only wobble while accelerating? I understand why it might only do it at certain speeds, but if a shaft is out of balance, shouldn't it wobble/shudder at those particular speeds regardless of whether I'm accelerating, decelerating, or coasting? And why would it not seem to happen until after the car had been driven for 15 minutes or so and had warmed up? Again, it seems like an out-of-balance drive shaft is going to be apparent regardless of the operating temperature of the car.
So, could I be on the right track? And if so, is the fix as simple as welding a new weight on there? Can this be done with the shaft still on the car? I think Subaru considers the shaft a non-serviceable part, but I don't want to trash and replace an otherwise perfectly good shaft for what seems like a pretty easy fix (albeit one that is probably beyond my own abilities).
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My trucks been doing something weird. When accelerating around 45-55 mph, a couple seconds after it shifts to 3rd, it does a weird type off shake/shudder. Feels like I hit a small bump in the road. Also when coming out of a cruise to accelerate, it will Make a very violent clunk and then speed up. I'm thinking it's a problem with my torque converter but my mechanic says transmission and my buddy says rear end lol. I dropped the pan and there was some shavings but nothing huge and it was the first time it was ever dropped. After 90k miles.
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I have a 199 Ford Expedition that started shuddering several months ago. The shudder was the most pronounced when braking, but was also pretty bad when accelerating and letting off the accelerator.I took it to a Nationally recognized service center. They charged me over $1,200 to replace everything associated with my brakes, but the shudder, (although no longer so pronounced when braking), was still there.Their best guess was the “U” joints, but since they had just a little play in them, they weren't sure that that would cause so much shudder.I took it to a Ford dealer. They had it for 3 days, and charged me $366 for a diagnosis that I had 3 different brand name tires, and the All Wheel Drive was having difficulty keeping the wheels in sync.The problem seems to be most pronounced when letting up on the accelerator Also pronounced when accelerating, not as much so as when letting off the accelerator, but when cruising steadily with my foot on the accelerator, it nearly goes away.
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In june of 2014 I purchased a 2012 F150 Harley Edition with the 6.2 for my wife to use as a daily driver. I told her that she could have any vehicle she wanted and she chose the White Harley Truck.
It is a Ford Certified Pre Owned and we took delivery with about 30,000 miles on the odometer.
From the test drive in June 2014 until today the truck has had two distinct issues with the rear end and suspension:
1. After coming to a normal stop (at a light) when you start to accelerate (on green) there is a distinct thunk that is heard and felt. Having owned other vehicles with a slip yoke drive shaft I knew right away that the slip yoke needed to be cleaned and lubricated and that is how the dealer repaired this issue. The repair lasted about 10,000 miles and the thunk started again recently.
2. Also after coming to a normal stop and then accelerating there is a vibration felt until the mass of the truck is moving along at about 20 MPH. It's not a vibration like a wheel/tire is out of balance it's more like the whole vehicle is shaking similar to the Space Shuttle Experience ride at the Kennedy Space Center. The shudder is severe enough that my elderly neighbors asked if the truck "was going to make it without falling apart" when my wife and I took them to dinner one evening. The Shudder is exponentially worse when towing any kind of trailer. I have a tandem axle car hauler to haul a 1992 Jeep YJ to various events and the whole setup might weigh 5000 LBS max which is well under the tow capacity of the truck. To say the shaking is violent is putting it lightly.
When I took it in for service, the dealer told me that it was my fault for riding around with the locking differential locked. I told them nice try and that I know what a locking diff is and how to use it because I have two of them in my Jeep. I then took the service advisor for a ride, made him verify the diff is off and demonstrated the problem without even leaving the parking lot. At that point he acknowledged the condition I left the vehicle with him again. The repair the dealer made was to change the rear differential fluid and called me to say the truck was ready.
I drove back to the dealer again (35 minutes in light traffic) where I was presented with the vehicle. I didn't have to leave the lot before I knew it still was not fixed and pulled back into the service lane. I was greeted by the advisor who then proceeded to tell me it was "characteristic of the vehicle." I was completely frustrated and took my truck with it's "characteristic" shudder home.
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My mom wants to sell her 2002 Ford Explorer w/ 4.0 as enough kids have moved out that the vehicle is no longer needed. It has 162 000 mostly trouble free miles on it. However, for me to sell it for her, I need to get it running well first. The background:
Just recently it fried the alternator. No big deal, got a reman for my dad and he put it in. But now it has this sort of "shudder" at idle and low rpm, and also when accelerating slowly low in the revs. I don't know if it was there before or not because only my siblings drove it, and their not exactly observant. I am positive it is a misfire.
So far I have done the obvious. I have pulled all the plugs, they are nice and tan, re-gapped them (although they were only .002 out of spec at the most). I noticed that one plug wire was broken on the inside, where it connects to the plug. Thinking I solved the problem, I bought a new set of wires and put them on. No such luck however, as the problem continues unchanged. On the new wires, I have verified tons of spark making it through. In an effort to isolate the bad cylinder, thinking maybe it was actually a plug, I started pulling wires off the coil with it running. I could barely notice a change in the engine with any of them, and a couple seemed to have no change at all (again, I may just not have been able to detect it because I could barely make out the other changes).
Next, thinking maybe it was fuel related, I put a stethoscope on some of the injectors and they sounded the same, but I can not get at the back passenger and 2 back driver ones. How else can I test these?
I even went so far as to unplug IAC, engine died immediately so its not that. I also took off the EGR valve and cleaned it, and pushed the plunger up and down lots and it moves freely. I tried pulling off the vaccuum line from the EGR with the engine running and there was no change, but that doesn't really mean anything does it?
So I put it all back together and thats how it sits for the night. On a related note, the CEL is on, but it is on more often than not on that thing, and my dad has taken it to a dealer three times to have codes read and nothing ever shows up. The mechanics keep saying that it has something to do with the fuel cap and pressure or something.
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While I am loving the fuel millage and ride of my new truck, I have my first concern. In the last few weeks i have hauled a truck bed full of dirt, and 3300 lbs of sod. both times i would use tow haul mode, and while the truck had plenty of power, it would shutter when accelerating from a stop. Mostly first gear 0-15 mph.
This is my truck with a fancy electronic controlled transmission, so on the old pickups this would be a torque converter slipping, but all the ford dealer wants to tell me is "its electrical and they want to reflash my transmission". I am at 26k miles and have less than 10k left on my warranty...
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I have a early 99 7.3l that seem to cut out and shudder while accelerating at low rpm's below 2000 once I am above 2000 rpm it seems to go away similar to a dirty carburetor thinking injector problem...
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Looking for your collective expertise
2007 E350 with 5.4L and 4R70W trans. 107K miles and the fluid has probably never been changed ( my mistake - thought it was 100K interval - finding out from my reading that is def not true ). Anyway, following is recent development (last couple days):
Symptom #1: In Park/Neutral there is a whine. As soon as you put it in P or N, the whine 'spins up', stabilizes, and does increase with engine RPM.
Symptom #2: Hesitation (albeit minor) when starting from stop in D and R, with _very_ minor shudder. Sometimes feels like it's struggling a bit to move its own weight just until it's rolling.
Symptom #3: Shudder when accelerating in OD. No shudder when I turn off OD. It does not stop when applying brakes (a test suggested elsewhere). Also, the shudder does not happen when applying gas while braked in D at standstill. Only at highway speeds (enough to be in OD).
This all started at the end of a trip (90 miles or so in 85-90 degrees) when I was pulling a utility trailer (maybe 2000 lbs loaded). Not sure if related, but traction control warning went off a couple times. I think I have a axle seal leak that may be triggering that.
Otherwise shifts fine (no change in shift behavior or smoothness). Things seem to be worse when it has heated up. Should I start with a fluid change? Wasn't sure because there are comments out there saying don't do it or the tranny will just fail faster (I am skeptical).
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Lexus LS460
Issues:
1. Just put her in for the SECOND brake actuator replacement at 45k miles. First failed at 22k miles, so they DO have that consistency thing nailed.
2. Also had to replace BOTH B-pillar trim pieces which have soft facing material that cannot withstand the constant barrage of seat belt buckles banging into them during retraction. They start by showing marks, then dents, and finally the material gives up altogether and begins to shred.
3. Brake shudder due to "rotor warpage." I believe this problem is due to production engineering (or lack thereof) during final assembly. Hub runout at maximum combines with rotor runout at maximum, even though both are within tolerance, to produce a stackup tolerance outside the spec which results in warpage given enough thermal cycles. The reason the problem occurs only rarely is due to hub and rotor tolerance variations AND the various stackup combinations arbitrarily selected during final assembly of rotors to hubs.
4. The recirculation-biased AC causes mold (and odor) buildup in the AC system. Since this "choice" was made by Toyota to gain U.S. CAFE credits, the fault lies more with EPA and DOT than with TMC. Still, the unsuspecting Lexus customer is the one who suffers.
I'll buy an extended factory warranty on the car, run it for another year (20k), then sell it before the chickens come home to roost.
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My son has a 2013 Fx4 crew cab 4X4 ecoboost with 8500 miles. He says in the morning for the first couple of miles while accelerating gradually the trucks shudders when shifting gears. After a few miles it goes away. Dealer says they can't do anything endless he can duplicate the condition. He went out of town for a few days and left me the truck so I'll drive it in the morning and see what it does.
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I hooked up the boat and went out for a tow. I ended up getting a pretty good vibration and thought maybe it was time for balancing the trailer tires. As it turns out I needed two new tires as they were at the wear bars (cheap crappy bias ply tires) so I ended up buying 4 trailer tire radials and had them balanced.
As it turns out I have what I guess is a shudder at slow speeds and also can feel it at other speeds as well. A way to explain it is that it sort of feels like you are driving over the rumble strips on the side of the road but really small ones.
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My 2013 Lariat has just over 7,000 miles on it now. If you brake lightly at 55-60 you get a brake shutter, enough to feel it in the seat but also can see the steering wheel shake too. if you brake a little harder you don't feel the shudder much. is it possible to warp rotors in 7000 miles? 3500 of that 7000 was put on driving to Texas and back.
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I noticed from time to time when i accelerate ventilation fans tend to drop speed. Not sure if the a/c shuts off for a brief moment as you can feel warmer air exit the vents. Nothing of concern to me as the a/c works fine, just wondering if it does this for a reason. Knowing the ac is a huge power consumption to the vehicle, I am wondering if it does this for the engine to put more power where needed.
On another note. I did a test on the HWY this past Saturday omw to a wedding coverage. 2hr drive there i used the a/c with seat vents on and got about 22/23mpg. On the way back i did the opposite and got 29.2mph, not too shabby... 2016 - 2.0T .....
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I have a 2013 Santa Fe Limited AWD that has a problem that is killing me. When in any forward gear something that is rolling/spinning is making a squeaking/grinding sound but only when you give it gas. Once you let off the gas paddle it stops then starts again when I give it gas again. I took it to my local dealer and after a week of them having it they told me that its rust on the rotors.
I feel that is not the case and I don't want to spend the money to turn or replace the rotors to find its not the problem. It has 48k miles and when they tried to tell and show me what it was i saw the pads and rotors and they looked good (other then normal rust on the edge of the rotor) so I know its not in need of a brake job.
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Our 2015 es350 with 2,500 miles hesitates when accelerating from a dead stop, such as from a stop light. We are told this is to be expected with this vehicle. The dealership test-drove the car and say there's no problem. But this hesitation is unlike any other car we've experienced.
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Here is a video I made of the "Blow off" noise I hear when accelerating/shifting (more than 50% throttle). Sounds kinda cool IMO
[URL] ....
The times are listed in the description of the video...
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Okay, so I just bought this used 2013 Golf R and I use it to take my mom and her sister out for Mother's Day. Pulling out onto the main road near my folks' house, I begin to mildly accelerate when all of a sudden the flashers and the horn start going off while I'm driving down the road! The horn beeped intermittently for about 5-10 seconds and then the all the flashes kept going for another 10-20 sec. I hit the hazard button to no effect. The key fob was in my pants pocket as usual, so I don't think I hit the panic button. I pulled over and gave the car a quick walk around to make sure there wasn't anything like a flat tire, open flames or gremlins chewing on wires, but everything seemed to be in order. I can't figure it out.
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We have a 2013 Tiguan, bought new, that every now and then makes a low rumbling sound when accelerating from around 30-35mph. The car seems otherwise fine, hasn't turned up any problems at its regular service checks, and has been doing this occasionally since we first got it.
It seems to happen only after the car has been recently started for the first time that day, and typically happens if I'm accelerating up into the 30's, start to slow down again and then resume accelerating. It's a brief rumbling that goes away, and usually doesn't happen again, especially once the engine's warm. I've been trying to pay attention to when it happens, and it does seem to be associated with cold or rainy days, but I need it to happen a few more times to say that for sure.
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