I have a 2012 Prius Vv. I am having issues of failing door lock actuators and wanted to see if this was a common problem. I have replaced every door lock actuators once and the drivers door twice. Yes you read that right 5 actuators in one car. All have been covered by warranty, but come on. I can't be the only one.
View 5 RepliesI spent write a bit of time and this process is living proof i can't do it.
View 5 RepliesAll of a sudden, my 2008 prius, basic package without the smart entry system, stopped locking or opening the doors when i pressed the button.
At first i thought it must be a dead battery, so i replaced it with a new one and got the exact same behavior. i checked the old battery and it was still giving off 3 volts as was the new one when i checked that with a volt meter. when i press any of the buttons on the key, a small led light goes on and on the dashboard a picture of a key lights up briefly. the owner's manual does not show the key as a warning light.
As I was trying to use up as much E10 before refueling with E0 I was watching the miles to empty and noticed what seems strange, to me. When driving in EV mode, with the ICE off the miles to empty kept falling! Apparently miles to empty somehow includes EV miles. So I checked the MTE both before and after charging and saw no change which indicates EV miles don't count. So now I would like to know what does MTE mean?
View 19 RepliesJust picked up my 2012 Prius C. When I lock the car using the remote, the light flashes, and the doors lock, but no beep to confirm the doors were locked. Is that normal?
View 4 RepliesQuestion: After I park my car and exit the vehicle... shouldn't the doors lock automatically after a certain time? I was assuming they were automatically unlocking when I got close to the car but now I just realized it was never locked! Am I missing something or do I have manually lock it every time?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2012 Prius C II my question is why is that when I press the Fob key to Lock/Unlock I only get a flashing light. (Headlights) there is no sound at all. How do I activate it so it flashes and have sound?
View 4 RepliesOn the passenger door the proximity sensor stopped working. 2014 PP. When I touch the door with the FOB in my pocket it does not unlock. If i swipe my finger on the door handle with the fob in my pocket it does not lock.
View 19 RepliesI've noticed that my new Prius Plug In won't always lock and unlock using the touch sensor on the door handle. The manual states that when this occurs to use two fingers and touch both the top and bottom of the handle at the same time. This does not work either.
Problem seems to occur when in busy shopping center parking lots where other vehicles have similar systems? Once the car is back in my driveway or in the parking lot at work, the sensor works fine.
Could it have something to do with RF interference in the immediate area of my car? Is this a latent 'security feature' not really addressed in the manual?
I just picked up a 2006 GLS with 66,600 miles. Everything works great aside from the front door actuators. Outside at the drivers door I can lock and unlock the doors (except for the passenger front door). From the passenger side I can lock and unlock the doors (except for the drivers door). The Central door lock switch will not lock or unlock the front passenger door.
I am hoping that the fact that either side functions with the other doors indicates that the actuators are still working. My guess is that the front actuators just aren't communicating with each other. Is this just a programming problem that the Hyundai Hi Scan Pro computer can resolve? It doesn't appear that the vehicle has been programmed for the xx MPH automatic door lock. We had to have the dealer program this "option" on our 2007.
I recently purchased a 2001 XLT, 5.4L RWD. It has the rear windows with actuators installed. The upper console has the vent switches to open and close them. They don't work. I removed the upper console and the vent switches have no wires running to them and no visible wire harnesses that have been cut or removed.
With the headliner removed, I chased the wires from the actuators (white with brown/yellow with brown on the right and white with blue/yellow with blue on the left). These four wires meet up over the right rear door and run in a bundle to the upper console where they seem to end in the plug for the Rear A/C controller. There is no indication that these harnesses have been altered. They appear to be taped like they came from the factory.
My questions are, were the opening rear window vents standard on the XLT or only on the Limited? If only on the limited, would they have installed actuators regardless of what model and just dead-end the wires into open plugs? There may be the chance that the upper console was aftermarket because there is a price tag sticker on it...
The battery gauge on my 2007 seems to be dropping much faster than it used to. I can back out of my driveway with full green, and be down to purple in two miles of <45MPH driving. It also seems to recharge faster, as if the 'window' of usable charge has become much narrower.
I took it in for the 45K service, and asked the dealer to investigate. The tech wrote that everything is fine, and that this behavior is normal because "this is deep cycle battery".
Two questions: If the main battery fails completely, will the car still be driveable or will I be stranded at that point?
The little 12V battery is still the original that came with the car. Could it cause the above symptoms?
i have a 2006 with almost 200k miles. Got the red triangle, check engine light, and the red car at the top of the MFD. I ran the codes and got P3000. Does this sound like traction battery failure? The car still turns on and ICE still cycles off and on.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2005 Prius with 140,000 km (90,000 miles). The car was dented during hail and so it spent one month in the bodyshop. The damage was entirely cosmetic and the car ran perfectly when I dropped it off.
View 12 RepliesWe bought a new 13 level 3 with sunroof 9 weeks ago. It has been to the dealer 3 times because
1. the bluetooth kept failing and had to be repaired often. (it would lock any phone so we could not make or receive calls)
2. The radio started locking up and had to be powered down to work again.
The dealer replaced the radio and bluetooth by removing the parts from a new car after Panasonic & Corporate would not supply tracking # after claiming shipment of the replacement parts.
The new radio and bluetooth work nicely but the reception SUCKS. We live in a rural area and the radio station we normally listen to is too weak to tune to. Every other car we own (that's 6 cars folks) we can listen to this station.
Halogen Headlights keep failing on my 2007 Prius Hybrid. I'm starting a file on this because my headlights fail waaaaay too often. I first bought replacements from O'Rileys (don't know the brand) and one failed after only 3 months. . . they would not replace the bulb for free so I did buy one more bulb there. The next time I purchased two Philips bulbs at another parts store. The last ones I bought were from Napa Auto parts and I have to replace one of those. I am wishing I had kept better records because there have been more burned out low beam headlamps. . .never use the brights.
View 9 RepliesI noticed that one of my vacuum lines was bad on the driver's side. I've done a lot of reading on the 4WD systems and frankly I'm confused now. My understanding is that when in 2WD the solenoid is open pulling a vacuum on the actuators (IWE) which keeps them disengaged. When you switch to 4WD the shift motor on the transfer case sends power to the front wheels and the solenoid turns off the vacuum which engages the actuators sending power to the wheels. Therefore if there is a vacuum leak the actuators won't disengage properly.
Through my trouble shooting I've determined that I think the solenoid is working properly because I'm getting a vacuum when in 2WD and no vacuum in 4WD. I believe that both actuators are engaged and working properly when in 4WD. However, I must not be getting a vacuum to the driver's side actuator (hub) because the line is totally busted up and can't possibly hold a vacuum. However the passenger side line looks good to me. Does this mean that I've been driving around in "3WD"??? I don't seem to have any problems when in 2WD turning (no tire skip or hop).
A few weeks ago, I received the triangle light in my 2007 Prius with 125k miles on it. When I took it to the dealer, they said that the hybrid battery needed to be replaced. A new battery was ordered & installed by the dealer, which took a couple weeks as the battery wasn't in stock. When I picked up the Prius this week, within driving it a couple miles, it was apparent the A/C wasn't working. I took it right back to the dealer who said they'd look into it. When the Service sales guy started it again, it made a very strange noise as well, which it never did before. The dealer has come back and said that not only has the A/C Compressor out but the ABS actuator is also failing. They are saying this has nothing to do with the battery replacement but both these items were working fine before having the battery replaced
View 1 RepliesPulling into parking lot and the triangle and exclamation light appear on dash. Drive about an additional hundred feet with what felt like lower power and no noises.
- Check 12V after about an hour and it reads 12.4 volts.
- Read codes and get P3125 sub code 325.
- Temperatures and HV battery numbers all looked good.
- Clear codes and immediately code comes back with no start, nothing. Did this many times.
This code and sub code lead to the inverter failing. Being that there was no noise as a MG2 stator failure this also leads to an inverter failure right as the MG1 motor starts the engine? Inverter pump still running good as it was recently replaced along with ATX fluid. Within the last two weeks two HV modules have been replaced.
Took my car to a shop today after I'd been experiencing a "tinny clunking" sounding rattle. I was worried it might be my catalytic converter and after couple of bumps on the exhaust system while on the lift, the tech thought this was indeed the case. Replacing the catalytic converter could be a $1500+ job from what I hear if replaced by toyota.
View 17 RepliesRecently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.