Prius V :: 2012 - Codes P0A93 And P0A94 Occurred / Car Jolted And Dramatic Power Loss
May 29, 2016
2012 v five with 56,500 miles. Getting onto an on ramp and accelerating when car jolted and dramatic power loss. I posted a thread about my car "ticking" as I slowed down from 30mph and I am wondering if this was related. I had no choice but to drive it home and kept car under 45 mostly on side streets. Car is not assisted at all by electric motor and can barely go up hills. With windows open and attention to any unusual sound i noticed no more ticking when slowing down from 25 to zero.... I think its covered under warranty at least powertrain, hopefully. I know a few of you here have the ticking problem to so i will update if this is related after i bring it in for service.
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I have a 2005 Prius with 130k miles on it. In Oct 2012 I took it to the Toyota dealer for 120k service. They performed the following:
120k service
Replace serpentine belt
Clean and adjust drums
Replace cabin/hepa micro filter
Replace brake system fluid
Since then my car's mpg has dropped from ~45 to ~35mpg. I specifically notice that the pickup is completely gone and that it seems to "drag" pretty badly when starting from halt (stop sign, a light etc). Once it gets up to ~40mph, it appears to be doing all right in terms of mpg. What could be causing the "drag" and mpg drop?
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Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
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This code appear after I connect two Prius batteries in parallel.
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Well, coming home from work Friday and my truck turned on the check engine light. I did not notice any loss of power or other driveability issues. When I got home I pulled the DTC's. I got P0264, P0273, P0276, P0279, P0611, and U0306. The first four being low voltages. The Second FICM. And the last cylinder 6 misfire.
I sent a message to Ed at FICM Repair asking if there was anything to check before I pulled the beast. He said no it needed service no matter what at this point. BUT, I needed to test batteries and alternator. So I spent some time today pulling off my FICM.
I went ahead and pulled the EBP sensor and tube off from the exhaust manifold. The manifold end was very clean. BUT, the sensor end had a noticeable restriction. I would guess a 40% restriction. I cleaned the tube and the sensor and put it back on.
Next I moved to the EGR. I pulled it off and it was dirty but not what I would call restricted. The valve moved freely. I cleaned it anyway and blew out the manifold before I reinstalled it.
I have the batteries on a charger right now. Once they each charge for 12 hours each I will let them sit a day or two before I load test them. They are about four years old, AC Delco 60 month 875CCA batteries. I have had problems the last 6-8 months with staring the truck. If she sits for more than 3-4 weeks without being run she turns over slow and won't start. So I have had to jump start her a few times. And before you ask I have done a parasitic check and only have .05amp draw. So maybe the alternator is getting weak.
On that note I pulled the alternator and will get it bench tested this week. While I was there I noticed the top grooved and smooth idler pullies were a little "wobbly" so I yanked them too and will replace. Might as well do the belt while I'm at it. Boy this is going to get expensive real fast.
So, I decided to go ahead and replace the bottom coolant recovery hose and the long hose/pipe heater hose too. Boy it never ends. Oh well. I would rather do it now while I have stuff pulled off and it is easier to get to. Ordered those parts from RockAuto to the tune of 219 dollars. OUCH!!!
I accidentally broke my new engine oil dipstick while I was trying to get to the FICM!!!! CRAP!!!! More money. So......... Is there anything else I might want to look at while I am there?
The truck is 2006 F250 6.0 PSD CC SB 4x4 mid optioned XLT with 108,000+ miles. I have a 4" turbo back exhaust, AFE Cold Air Intake, Blue Spring, Hypertec Power Program 3 on the lowest setting, and an after market intake elbow at the intake manifold and an engine oil bypass filter. Turbo was pulled and de-coked about 18,000 miles back. Otherwise no issues. The 90,000 mile service was done about 10,000 miles ago. She gets regular services.
How about methanol injection? Will that keep the intake clean from the EGR sludge? I'm not thinking about added power, just keeping things cleaner? I plan to do the Atlas 40 when the FICM gets repaired.
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My 2002 f350 7.3 was given to me in July of this past year. I was 15 at the time and I was told that it was hydrolocked. Funny enough this is where I came to learn how to fix it, and this is the first time I have had to ask a question . I pulled both heads and replaced all 8 injector cups, I also had the heads re surfaced and had 7 injectors rebuilt and 1 replaced. I got it on the road in February around the 20th and since then I have put about 300 miles on it. Today I stopped at a red light and made a left turn and as I went to accelerate the truck jolted forward a few times and it felt like a tire was going to fall off while accelerating(only to 30mph). I pulled into a driveway to check all the tires, then I turned around and my foot was hard to the floor and the truck wouldn't go over 15. Diddn't smoke when it first happened, but after getting it off of a flatbed I turned it around and it hardly had enough power to get up my driveway. And I noticed it was pushing a steady stream of white smoke, the oil is clean and the oil cap doesn't get blown off at idle when I set it upside down on the valve cover.
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I have a 06 f250 king ranch with 6.0 . A few days ago my scangauge showed a code P0405
I changed my egr and after it showed two codes : P0405 and P0404
It still has a hesitation and loss of power , although better than before the Change.
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I'm a longtime reader & today I got a excellent reason to make a post - I was at ~20mph & had just went around a corner & tried to accelerate fairly briskly & the car just dies. Hybrid Failure iirc. I got out of traffic & pulled the codes (BT dongle already installed) Torque shows P0A94 Powertrain. I reset the code & power cycled the car but nothing changed. The traction battery still was showing 5-bars so I moved the vehicle <.1 mile to a safe location. Battery was still at 2-bars when I powered it down.
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Check Engine light is on but car seems to be running OK (getting 40mpg). I do notice that the car seems to rely on the Gas more than the battery than it used to.
My question is, will MPG start to drop gradually until one day the Traction Battery is just dead or will the car go from running well to not running well in minutes.
My shop says it needs a battery but it's not in the budget at the moment so I need to see if I can postpone it until the new year.
2003, 145k, just bought it 3 months ago
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I have a 95 aerostar with the 4.0. After driving a while it wants to lose power. It only happens after the van has been running for a while, at least 2 hours or more. So of course I have mostly noticed it at higher speeds because I was on the interstate going a long distance when it happened most recently. But it has also happened at lower speeds, after the van had been running/driving for about 4 hours. The van doesn't die right off. It is idling as the van slows down. So I can come to a stop, and the van is still running. I can get out and look at it sometimes, it eventually will cut off. Pushing the gas does nothing, other than perhaps encourage it to stall sooner. It is a complete loss of power but the engine remains running at an idle. If I wait 15 minutes it will go a couple more miles down the road. If I wait about an hour, I can get even further. Let it sit overnight and it seems like it will drive endlessly but not so.
If I try to restart it immediately, sometimes it will run/stutter for a moment. I can wait a few minutes and it will run for a minute then die. After repeated tries to get it to start and stay running it just won't, and then I just wait patiently for an extended amount of time (30 minutes or more). Also on a couple of occasions the exhaust has smelled very rich, and sometimes was black. All of this has been in the last couple of days and 600 miles. It isn't throwing any codes.
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Just posting another 'Check Hybrid System' thread. 2011 Prius with 68k miles on it. Had not had the E0E recall done before. Turned the corner out of the supermarket on Friday, and the car lost all power. Coasted to a spot on the side of the road and all the lights lit up and 'Check Hybrid System' came on. Prius would not restart at all. Car is driven approximately 80 miles a day, mostly flat land, weekends usually spent in mountains. Had it towed to the dealer, they pulled P0A94 and P324E. Didn't replace the whole inverter, but looks like the repair kit, including 04899-47021 Transistor Kit replaced. Got the car back and seems to working as before. Will check mpg over the next couple of fill-ups and update if anything seems different.
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So I've had this code come up and go off multiple times its P0A93 which has to do with the inverter Coolant pump, and all the posts I've read about it here, none of them had an intermittent problem with it. Like it will come on and then I let it sit overnight adn it will go off. When I take the cap off the reservoir there is turbulence in the coolant and I've bled it many times. It came on and shut off 2 times on my drive to New York 3 weeks ago but then didn't come on again until today, almost 2500 miles later. And today when the light came on it listed these 4 codes.
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My new-to-me (bought in May this year) 2010 Prius last night suffered. Nearing home on my usual 21-mi commute from work and on a secondary road, I was stopped at a red light. As I normally do when at a red light when a rather spirited start isn't needed (no or few cars behind me, not uphill, etc) I pushed the "EV" button to take advantage of electric acceleration up to 25 mph. All seemed normal as the light turned green and I started off. I don't know if I reached 25 or not - must've been close - when all of a sudden the acceleration stopped as if I'd taken my foot off the pedal when indeed I'd not. Simultaneously, a circus of lights lit up on the dash along with the fairly ominous message of "Check Hybrid System."
As with all things electronic these days, I figured a good ol' fashioned reboot was in order. Turned it off and back on and...same thing of course. Being near an intersection and a very bad place to be stopped - and not knowing if the car would actually move - I pressed the accelerator anyway, despite the warning lights, and indeed the car started to move. It seemed to cap the speed at 12-13 mph, which immediately seemed like some kind of self-protective safe mode. Luckily, I was within spitting distance from home, so I limped the last 1/4 mile in this state - and at 12 mph.
There are probably 5-6 warning lights on in addition to the big "Check Hybrid System" message. Let's see, first and foremost, the yellow triangle of death, followed by what I think is the Slip indicator (car icon with wavy lines), the CEL, the encircled exclamation point which I think is the braking system, and I forget, a couple of more. I should've snapped a pic but I was in a hurry to troubleshoot.
So I used my Actron scanner to pull the P0A94 code. I didn't see that it's able to read the sub codes, or maybe that's a capability that only the expensive dealer scanners have. Anyway, I can't conclude what it is other than the generic "DC-DC Converter Performance". I know that here and elsewhere there's a list of all DTC codes, and I saw that this code has 17 sub-codes, many of which are related somehow to the inverter, which seems to have been the subject of a recall in Gen II models (acutally the inverter cooling pump IIRC) but not on Gen III.
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The car is a Prius 2 2012 about 3.5 years old 48000 miles on it so far nothing ... I did the recall realted to the inverter while back.
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Need to diagnose a problem with my 2001 Prius. I was driving it on the highway when suddenly the hybrid system warning light and the main battery light, along with the check engine light came on. I pulled over, turned off the car, and turned it back on. The main battery light error cleared but the Hybrid System warning light stayed on as did the check engine light.
I took my car into the dealership and they told me that the 12V battery was probably low at some point but that they didn't find any problems.
The error codes that came up were: C1215, C1241, C1259, C1521, C1522, C1558, and C1559.
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While driving home last night the Red Triangle, CEL and the Hybrid Warning lamp, (on the MFD) all lit up. The cruise control also shut down. We stopped and checked the manual to identify what the symbols meant. We were approximately 90 miles from home, drizzling rain and it was about 60 degrees.
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Everytime i accelerate medium to hard with the CEL on like this it starts flashing and i loose power. Feels like a sputtering (in idle too). Fuel injection system cleaned and was 75% better for 1 week, but now back to same old. Reset CEL and comes back 100-200 miles later. Cam tensioner? Fuel filter? Coil packs? One of my fan clutches is pretty much out, related?
New spark plugs, maybe needs a tune up...supposedly TB was changed, but i have 106K on 1.8T 2001.5 Passat. New oil pump, timing belt tensioner put on. However A/C belt snapped and had to be put back on then tightened to work. Maybe they didn't adjust correctly at shop the timing belt tensioner?
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My 2007 just came due for an oil change a week ago (Maint Reqd stays on), not that it matters. Yesterday the Red triangle of death, Check Engine, and brake warning lights came on. We drove another 15 minutes (city) without incident. When I turned the car back on the brake warning was off (and has stayed off) but now the Info Display has the red Hybrid System Warning Light also showing, along with Mr. Triangle and Check Engine.
This morning Autozone read out the P0A93 (confirmed) and C1300 (current) codes for me. With the car "Ready", I can see fluid movement in the inverter coolant reservoir (not sure it qualifies as "turbulence") and feel vibration in the line connected to the pump which is humming so quietly. The 12V battery shows 12.5V with the car off and 13.5V with the car on. Does this mean the inverter is still operating? (I read the P0A93 code is supposed to shut it down.)
I did find the ICE coolant reservoir dry and refilled it with SLLC. There looks to be a small leak in the water pump, but I'll deal with that later.
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I am about 50 miles from El Paso and 350-400 from home, broken down on hwy right now, all the dash lights lit up and my scan gauge says p0a93 the inverter pump thing. Nothing has been worked on or messed with so i should have no air in the lines etc
Can I drive it like this to El Paso or home? Car seems to be running fine. Car is under toyota warranty so i don't want to screw anything else up.
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I have a 2007 Prius, and bought it used about 4 months ago. I have not had any issues with it until last night. Last night I was driving home and the red triangle with the “ ! “ in the middle and check engine light came on. The car seems to be running fine, but it scared me to see the lights come on...so this morning I called my local Toyota dealership.
NOTE: I recently went to them for an oil change and they informed me that I had three recalls on my vehicle that needed replacing, but I did not get them replaced because I was told it would take 5-6 hrs (which I didn’t have at the time).
Anyway, they told me that it would cost $70 to have the codes read...and that did not include parts that may need replaced... I thought that sounded a little high for just having the codes read so I went to my local Autozone and they gave me this code:
P0A93 - Inverter Cooling System Performance
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I own a 2006 JDM prius with 323,000 km. The inverter coolant pump failed recently (got P0A93 code and no agitation in coolant reservoir). I ordered a replacement on eBay and am awaiting arrival. I may need to do some light driving in the in the interim and am thinking about installing a 10 inch fan in the space between the inverter/transmission and radiator to keep things cool. Is this wise or should I just let the car sit until the new pump gets here?
Also, I am burning oil...I usually have to top up 1 to 2 quarts in between changes. Is there anything I can do without tearing down the engine? A friend of mine suggested using Lucas oil stabilizer the next time I change oil...could this have any negative implications?
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