Not a Prius owner but am curious about the regenerative braking. When in regenerative braking mode, do the friction(disk) brakes stay off until regenerative braking fades or do they combine with regenerative braking (blended braking)?
View 1 RepliesI'm just wondering while under regenerative braking, is the car braking with only the front two wheels? And four wheel braking starts when the friction brakes engage? Or does the rear drum brakes always engage even though the front is braking through the electric motor?
View 12 RepliesCar makes louder than normal regenerative braking (Hybrid Sound). Seems normal when braking at high speeds... then when the speed drops below 30mph the sound is noticeable louder. See Video for example sounds while braking (17, 35 and 50 seconds into the video are most notable).
[URL] ....
Car drives normal other than the regenerative braking sound... Car was involved in a front end accident. Damages were repaired and seem minor. Front Bumper cover, hood, Radiator, Fans, RF Fender. Front cross member and other frame areas look untouched.
I’ve searched for an answer to my question but have not found it yet.
View 19 RepliesI've been having some issues with my FM radio for a while, I had really bad static when using the rear defogger but they have since replaced my back window under warranty and that has fixed it. Though, I'm still getting static or fuzz when my foot is off the gas and I'm either coasting and/or braking. When the signal is weaker it's really bad.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Prius that I have had about 4 years. It has under 80,000 miles on it and I have the Ecrostech Scanner which I have had for about 3 years. For the time I have had the Ecrostech I have noticed times when the regenerative braking was not working when I would depress the brake pedal. I understand the regen does not work from about 7 mph and below but my system often does not work even when it is above that speed. I have not been able to force it into regen. It seems to have a mind of its own as in perhaps a faulty ecu.
View 7 RepliesCuriosity question. I've noticed that on a downhill of a couple miles, especially in "braking" mode or with the cruise control on, the motor/generator and engine are used to keep the speed down and the battery gets charged to the very top quite quickly. That's good!
On a really long downhill, will the motor/generator still be used for braking and the excess electricity discarded to keep from overcharging the battery?
I know that if the shifter/transmission is set to "S" then it tends to use the engine as a braking system sort of like a manual transmission. My problem is that it does this while in "D" (drive) for about 5 seconds and then it back to normal as in it's like it's put back into neutral. I read the manual and it states that when you place it in "S" mode and then back to "D" mode it retains some of the "S" features such as engine braking, but in our 09 Avalon XLS, it does this all the time while in "D".
Question: Is this normal for engine braking for about 5 seconds while in drive mode?
If so is there any way to get it back to a normal automatic drive mode where as when you release the gas pedal it coasts without engine braking?
I had the tranny/transfer case flash done sometime ago, which yielded smoother driving in "D" mode. However, I noticed that when braking in "S" mode, the downshifts actually cause the car to surge forward strongly. It's disconcerting enough that I now avoid driving in "S" mode unless I need to merge into traffic quickly; even then, I prefer shifting manually instead.
View 12 RepliesI have noticed that when driving in EV mode when the car switches over to HV mode the Eco icon always lights up! Of course you can select Eco, or Power mode manually, but when it does this automatically, after the EV battery charge is used up, it keeps showing the Eco icon being lite not HV.
View 1 RepliesMy AC always defaults to Recirculation mode the first time I use it after starting the car even though Auto mode is off.
Can I change this to default to fresh air mode?
Quick observation: with the exhaust brake switch off, I notice it appears that the exhaust brake is still working automatically when you are in Tow/Haul mode and apply the brakes coming down a hill.
I notice the engine drone and turbo boost gauge rise...although neither the drone nor the boost are as noticeable as when the switch is turned on.
I know the 2011-2014 had "auto exhaust brake only" but it appears some of that functionality is still built in.
Another question: what is the consequence of turning the exhaust brake on and leaving it on for normal driving? Is mpg affected? Engine output? Engine wear?
I have a concern about my 2010 Prius V(five). I've noticed some issues lately that may all tie in to one big problem.
1. My ev mode will not work at all. My battery will be fully charged and not in "B" mode. Turning car off and on will not work.
2. Engine will not turn off when coming to stops. Mind you when the battery is above 3 lines.
3. Throttle response feels like it's in PWR mode(super sensitive) but the engine is leggy. If I floor it for a sec the RPMS are super slow to come down.
4. The Eco line is quick to go in PWR portion and I'm not pushing it any harder than I was before all of this started. It seems like when I push the gas it skips the electric and automatically pulls from the engine.
It's on my 2015 f-250....dont know if this is a new thing ..... I know my 2011 f-350 didn't have it..... Really hardly notice its working ....it slightly slows me down when in tow/haul mode while braking......
View 14 RepliesI am looking at both the ES350 and the ES300h. After driving both, I am not sure I can get used to the regenerative braking sound from the 300h when coming to a stop. How have other 300h owners reconciled the noise?
View 11 Replies2014 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Wondering why the hvac acts like it is in recirculate mode with the A/C button pushed in manual mode. Have window cracked to force smoke and odors out of cabin. On vent mode it pushes air right out, in A/C mode it acts like recirculate is partially on and in recirculate mode it draws outside air in like you would expect recirculate to do. Trying to decide if I have something wrong or the nature of the beast. My GM vehicles do not act like this.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Intrepid with ATC (automatic temperature control).I noticed my A/C clutch is always is on even in heat mode (no defrost mode) Is this normal in automatic mode even if I set temp at 90° without defrost mode? Been looking on forums and some say it is normal for newer cars and some say no. What is correct.Doesn't seem normal to me when I set temp at 90° and the A/C is still running. The heat does work though.I did check for voltage at the clutch and it has power so something is telling it to run, (not a bad clutch,stuck clutch etc).
I never seen or heard it cycle when watching it. (hard to tell when driving) because the cooling fans go from low to high sometimes even without the A/C cycling.
In manual mode I can physically turn on or off the A/C but if it is on, I never seen it cycle yet when set at a normal temp 72-75° is this normal?I know it depends on outside temp,humidity, inside temp etc but if it feels comfortable in the cabin shouldn't the A/C cycle on and off every few minuts-10 minutes etc or is it normal to go 30 minutes or more without cycling? I don't have it on max Cool or recirculate mode either.
Here is my problem. In the mornings when I turn on the car and begin to drive away, it operates as if it is in EV mode even though the ECO or PWR light is on. The motor (ICE) turns on as part of the initial warm up but it does not power the car on acceleration. I continue to accelerate enough so that it should ordinarily kick in the motor, but it is only electric powering my car and the battery quickly drains before I even reach the end of my block. I've tried warming up the car, pushing all the EV, PWR, ECO buttons randomly but the only way I've found to fix the problem is to floor it completely which finally starts the motor. Then the problem doesn't happen again until I start the car to go home after work. The problem is most evident in PWR mode where I can clearly tell that the motor (ICE) is not powering the fast acceleration.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
What is EXACTLY going on when the Prius is put into B mode ?
View 12 RepliesThis has happened twice with my car - first time was end of Feb 2014 and just a few weeks ago.
View 5 Replies