Prius Plug-in 2012-15 :: Won't Charge - No Fault Codes On Torque
Feb 15, 2013
Edit (3/2/13): Problem identified. The timer was incorrectly and inadvertently set, so charging wouldn't start. See this post below.
Three times in the past two weeks, my PiP has refused to take a charge. It happened twice on Chargepoint chargers. The second time, I plugged in and the charger displayed "Vehicle refused charge" or something similar. Tried 10 times with the same result. Then it charged fine at home, and on 240v the next day.
This morning, it won't charge at home on 110. Plug in, the brick clicks, it draws about 200 ma for a couple of seconds, and then zero. Totally repeatable.
No fault codes on Torque. The dealer had it earlier this week and couldn't make it happen or see any fault codes either. The first time it happened the charging cable was off the ground, so I suspected a bent pin, but they all look fine.
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After my 25k service it seems the timer scheduler when the square button is pressed/held flashes at 7am. When i press the H button the hour advances to 12am then closes. I want to start the charge at 12am and finish at 5AM. The timer windows closes when i move the finish hour to 12am and then my regular clock hour changes. It used to be when i pressed/held the timer button the start time would show at 12 am and after setting it would go to the finish hour.
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Does the A/C and heater run only with Ice? Or is it able to run on EV alone?
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Why won't the iPad charge when plugged into the USB port in the center console ? My iPhone charges and auto plays but the iPad will only auto play.
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If the following variables are true:
-Extremely cold day out (highs in the single digits)
-Will be hauling around people that like a very warm car
-Will be in a lot of stops and go traffic
Is the best practice to charge only to about 2/3 or 3/4 of the way full (according to the battery graphic on the HSI)? My thinking is the ICE will be running a lot while stopped at stop lights and waiting in traffic. And I might as well have somewhere for all that extra energy to go. I know we are kind of splitting hairs here, but I wanted to think about this situation before it actually came up.
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Really starting to get a little frustrated and would love input.....
Owned our PIP for almost a month now. First week, fully charged EV miles were showing around 13.7. 2nd Week, around 12.2, 3rd week, 10.5 and now this week it's gone from 9.6 to 9.1???
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I just purchased a '12 PIP advanced a couple days ago. Love it so far, but I'm confused about why it keeps on switching out of EV mode before the charge is used up. My commute is 6 miles, so I assumed that I would be able to get to my office with no problem, using only electric. Without accelerating quickly or going above 62 mph, the car still switches into hybrid mode numerous times, for no apparent reason, resulting in an average of about 90 mpg by the time I get to work, still with a lot of juice left in the battery.
Why this is happening? My dreams of going for months without filling up with gas are starting to fade away.
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I know I am unusual but most days I drive about 3-4 miles. I can get 2-3 days out of a charge. Should I plug in every night or just when needed? Does it use more kWh to plug in every day?
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I have noticed this, and thought it strange. I don’t see the charging arrows in the display.
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On my last few charge cycles, the PiP's battery has not been charging completely. Even when I get the "charge complete" message, the top part of the battery indicator remains unfilled and I'm only getting 14.1 estimated range.
For comparison, last month I used to get 15.2 to 15.6 of estimated EV, when the battery icon filled completely after each charge. I always use the charge timer to set charging to finish 10-20 minutes before I need to drive the car.
My M-F routine:
- car finishes charging at 8:30 (13.8-14.1 estimated EV)
- I drive 8 miles to work at 8:20-8:30 (5-7 estimated EV remain, depending on traffic)
- I set charge timer to finish at 6:30 (13.8-14.1 estimated EV)
- I drive 8 miles to home at 6:30-6:45 (5-7 estimated EV remain, depending on traffic)
My weekend routine is obviously different, more driving, more charing, and not using the charge timer. Could it be because i'm not using all the EV so the battery is being lazy and not feeling like charging more than I need? Are there any known side effects of mixing 110V and 220V charging?
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I had been running on EV then parked in the cold to wait for the wife. Turning on the heater started the ICE (of course). It charged the battery about 0.6% then stopped charging, ICE still running. So I switched to HV and it restarted charging about 0.3% and then stopped charging. So I switched back to EV for a few seconds than back to HV and the charging resumed another 0.3%. Once the coolant temperature reaches 130 degrees the ICE stops. Nice heat until the coolant gets down to 118 degrees and the ICE starts again. Back in EV and the battery is charging and the HV/EV switching continues to add more charge. Until time to leave I picked up about 5% SOC, kept warm. Not good for mpg but 5% SOC is nice.
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I live in NJ and in summer I am getting a full charge of 8.1 miles. In winter i used to get almost 11 miles. I thought in summer the charge will be even more?.
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I received a message similar to this when I started my car up this morning. I am paraphrasing because I don't remember the exact wording. I had set the timer to charge from 4am-7am and entered my car at 7am to this message and 0 charge. Did I just plug it in correctly or what does this mean? I've never had an issue until today.
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I don't plug my PiP in often due to the cost of electricity here, but what I have noticed that when it has a full charge, around 13Miles, it will quickly drop down to 7-8, even when not using EV. Meaning, I start up car, turn off EV and the motor gets warm. Engine shuts off and I drive normally using the ICE. Over the course of a few miles, I'd say about 10, that EV range slowly drops down to 7-8 and then maintains itself around there. Pretty much the whole time I would have been using the ICE to maintain ~70MPH on the highway, not climbing, just flat.
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Happened to go down to garage to get something from pip about 3 hours after charge was complete and noticed loud hum coming from right rear wheel well area.
We had not had any lightning storms, electrical interruptions or anything odd; house is on whole house surge protection, and 240v evse has been working fine.
Hum disappeared when car was booted up in ev for a moment and then turned off. Hasn't come back on in an hour.
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I have a 2001 F350 with a PCM labeled "PMT2".
The SES light is triggered every time I try and pull fault codes using Torque Pro. It has done this since I installed Torque Pro many months ago. Same thing happens in another local member's (2000) truck, although I don't know his PCM version.
I'm very comfortable with the Torque Pro settings that have been detailed in other Torque Pro threads. I have been careful to choose conservative settings, including trying debug mode. I have uninstalled and reinstalled Torque Pro to see if that solves the problem - which it does not.
Question: "PMT2" PCM been able to pull fault codes using Torque Pro without tripping the SES light?
I realize another variable may be my OBD2 Bluetooth device. As an aside, I have removed the AIH and would expect to see a fault code but Torque Pro reports no fault codes.
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2013 PiP w/ 39,760 miles (oops, edited miles 6/29). 90º day this afternoon and for the first time ever it blew hot air.
- No codes via OBDii reader.
- Sight glass is completely clear, clean and empty. No apparent liquid present with A/C on or off.
I think the compressor runs of an electric motor, not the front drive pulley.
Is there supposed to be a serpentine belt on the crank pulley (there is none)?
Screen on OBD ii does not light up AC in monitor area, so I guess it does not have monitor refrigeration.
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New 2014 SE 2.5L owner here. Gonna Amsoil my rig when it hits 5K. I bought a filter wrench and drain plug gaskets online. What's the torque spec. on the filter housing and drain plug?
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My daughter recently bought a 2006 Prius with 170K, Car was running great at purchase time with no issues but unfortunately the honeymoon was short lived. Less than 50 miles, she got the check engine light and red triangle. Car seems to still to drive fine. Had a dealer near Knoxville TN pull the codes and the only code was a P0A9C - Hybrid Battery Temperature (Sensor A) Range / Performance. Was informed also as they checked history on the car that another dealer had recommended a new hybrid battery and inverter. Dropped by the other dealer today to get the codes that they had seen. The codes they had pulled at 169K on the vehicle were:
P0A80 - HV Battery Cell Delta State of Charge Fault.
P3016 - either a bad cell, or a shorted cell in the hybrid battery
P0A08 - dc/dc converter status circuit.
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Hymotion battery pack is dead. Won't charge beyond .8 kw max. Doesn't charge enough to offset the cost of the added weight of the pack.
How can I get this "boat anchor" removed.
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This is the third time this has happend in a week I used my torque app but it says no fault codes but the warning lights are clearly lit and wont turn off unless I shut down the car. Its a 2012 with 8,000 mile?
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