I'm talking basically about the equivalent of your standard pulse and glide in the regular Prius. But the PiP would allow you to do it up to 62 mph. However, you would manually have to toggle the HV/EV button to do it. It would be tiresome.
View 12 RepliesAs I understand it pulse and glide should work at pretty much any speed. I'm trying to adopt pulse and glide but I drive on mostly 55 MPH hilly roads. If I'm in HV mode and have some EV range I find I can only get ICE shutoff below 42+/- MPH. However if I switch to EV mode as I back off the pedal the ICE will shut down at speeds up to 62+/-MPH. Switching from EV to HV while gliding at speeds above 43 MPH causes the ICE to resume turning. So I've tried accelerating to my desired pulse speed in HV coordinating releasing the pedal with selecting EV mode to begin the glide then beginning the next pulse by simultaneously pressing the pedal and mode button. Alternatively I can stay in EV mode for the glide then floor the pedal to restart ICE but that risks getting an undesired higher less efficient ICE power level and doesn't allow lower power pulses to allow glides to begin on downgrades.
View 15 RepliesI have great success doing pulse and glide in city. I once drove 32 miles non highway at 90mpg in a single trip using this technique. But it seem that it is impossible to do so on the highway, speed goes down too fast during glide. I found that too many pulses on highway actually decrease mpg. How to greatly improve mpg in highway driving?
View 19 RepliesCorrect me if I'm wrong - Pulse & Glide is not really possible at speeds higher than, say 120-130km/h (74-80mph). I have noticed on my last trip that if you want to keep 130km/h average and you pulse up to 140km/h and glide down to 120km/h, when "gliding" the engine never shuts down, and the glide period is very short.
When pulsing back to 140km/h it takes a "long" time and the instant fuel consumption is "high" (e.g. 6-7L/100km) while when "gliding" you are actually at 2-3L/100km, which means on average you are at about 5L/100km, which is what I would get in any case if keeping speed constant with the CC at 130km/h.
On a recent 3k plus trip where I pulsed and glided a ton, when the PIP was in HV mode but gliding in the sweet spot where I had thought the engine would stop turning, no matter how I tweaked the glide, the ICE always turned at a minimum of 998 RPM per my torque app. The display was always showing 999 mpg in that situation so I assume it wasn't using fuel but just rotating freely. Is that the default behavior for HV mode? I,e, always rotating at 998 minimum rpm perhaps so it can kick in quickly if need be without vibration?? If so, the 10k oil change interval seems dicey as the engine is technically turning all the time when in HV mode. I was planning to change at 5k anyway.
View 13 RepliesWhile pulse and glide, is it better in Eco mode or normal mode with Prius c?
Eco mode will take more time to pulse, it may lower mpg?
Nexus 7 ?
I am a new 2010 prius owner and I am very interested in obtaining the max MPG in my new car I have read and seen video with regard to the pulse and glide method. My question is
1. can you shift into neutral on the glide
2. can this do any harm to the car.
Two weeks ago we were driving across rolling hills in southern Ohio. I started to wonder, "What would be the perfect road for the Gen 3 Prius?" Is there a road shape that would allow the benefits of pulse and glide without the speeding up and slowing down?
Let's assume no net elevation change on an interstate highway and a driving speed of 60 or 65 mph. To stay in the most fuel efficient engine ranges for the ICE, we'd want down-hill stretches where the power demand shown on the hsi would be in the bottom 1/4 of the total Echo range, and up-hill stretches where we could stay in the top 1/4 of the hsi Echo range (just below Power).
Would the optimal ascent and descent angles be the same, or would the angle of decline be shallower that the assent angle? Would mileage (mpg) be better on this ideal up and down road than mileage on a flat road at constant speed?
I own a Prius C 2013. I read about Pulse and Glide, and I also watched youtube about it. I somehow have never seen a situation where there is no arrow in the Energy Monitor. The best I have ever seen is arrow coming out of the battery only which is EV mode. Some people say 35-45 is the best speed for P&G, but I never see "no arrow". What speed makes the car run without arrow?
View 19 RepliesI am new to the Prius and have noticed that when cruising the car seams to surge or pulse while driving. Is this normal?
View 3 RepliesPurchased one owner Prius from Honda dealer May 2014 with 92000 miles.Now 2 months later 94000. Both service departments of Honda and a Toyota dealer said my car handles normally for a Prius.The car dips from left to right while driving at slow and highway speeds. It feels like a boat moving through water. The suspension was said to be good.Driving it feels unstable, like a Montero Sport or a stage coach. I wanted to do a lot of driving this summer, but this feels so uncomfortable.
View 5 RepliesWhen I am driving, especially at high speeds on the highway, the Navigation System on my Prius runs pretty slow. As the GPS icon is traveling, the movement is very choppy. It is not a smooth transition. Is there any way that I can fix this?
View 1 RepliesMy clock seems to slow down by about a min every week or two... I wish the whole system would "sync" when connected to entune.
View 11 RepliesToday I drove my Prius Plug-in from my home almost to the highway in EV mode. When about one minute from the highway, I pushed the PWR mode button twice, on and off, and the ice came on for warmup. All the green symbols above the speedometer were cleared. I then again pressed ECO to bring back that mode.
I believe the vehicle was in what I think of as blended HV mode. This mode blends the extra battery capacity of the Plug in with the ICE. After a 40 mile trip, the available EV miles dropped from 13.9 to 1.2, and the trip meter registered 76 MPG. I went up and down a serious hill which probably reduced the mileage.
I was doing some N coasting, mostly because it's a pain to try to keep regen at 0, and I noticed while the engine will start idling in drive at ~64mph (62mph GPS I imagine), the system indicates it'll stay off above that if I stay in N in EV mode. On the plus side, it can make for some higher speed engine-off coasting, but do that could push MG2's speed too high?
View 19 RepliesHow long could you stay in this mode at 65 mph on a flat highway?
View 12 RepliesI noticed today that my engine started up on an EV highway drive even though I didn't need it to. It came on somewhere between 65 and 67 mph when I was on a downhill portion of the highway and using only about 1/4 or less of my EV power bar. Why is the car designed to do this? Obviously I was well within the lowermost portion of the EV power band.
View 19 RepliesI first heard this on Car Talk on National Public Radio (sundays at 10, on the west coast). I heard the question but not the answer. Wife favored slow and hubby fast.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2005 Dodge Magnum with the V-8 Hemi and after re-fueling the car will die if driving slow or try to die if driving at highway speeds. This only last about 5 minutes if driving down the highway and stops after a couple of restarts in town. The car will start back up without a check engine light. We have tried different gas stations and putting gas in when empty or 1/2 tank and still does it most of the time.
View 9 RepliesI drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport w/ 4.7L V8 engine. I have been dealing with an overheating problem for about 6 months now and have nearly exhausted all hope of correcting the issue. It has been in the shop on 4 separate occasions and seen 2 different mechanics. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat and thermostat housing have been replaced, the radiator fan works properly, hoses have been replaced and no subsequent leak has been found by either mechanic, they haven't mentioned the possibility of a blown Head Gasket (nor has the typical "milky residue," shown up in my oil cap). Each time I got it back from the shop the problem was fixed for about two weeks, then returned and slowly got worse.
It overheats in idle (with the fan running), on the highway at high speeds, and while driving slow. Sometimes it only gets about 3/4th to the red (usually when its cool at night) and sometimes it will hover just below the red; while I'm doing everything I can to keep it from hitting red (defrost on, revving engine). Some days it takes a little while to get hot and some days it happens very quickly. I'm tired of sinking money into the vehicle but as a recent grad I don't have the money for a new truck at this point. Suggestions included heater core clogged, water pump gone bad, fan clutch.
My wife's 2005 Escape Hybrid has recently started acting up. After a bit of driving at semi-highway speeds (say 10 minutes), when you slow down to a stop- the car stalls out (or what feels like a stall to someone who drives a std transmission car). Sometimes, it comes back on when you turn off & on the car- sometimes it takes a minute of being off to turn back on. After a few cycles of this, the engine temperature warning goes off. After each stall, the car will be ok for a few minutes then stall again when slowing down (it seems to do it when you are under 20mph only- not that I am about to try to stall it at high-speeds). It has circa 70k miles on it, and is obviously in the shop- as it is unsafe to drive. It was a warm day when it first did it (say 80deg), and cooler (50) the next morning.
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