Prius Plug-in 2012-15 :: Quick Way To Accelerate In EV Of HV ONLY Mode?
Jul 26, 2014
PiP or traditional Prius users could tell me the quickest way to accelerate when in EV mode of HV ONLY mode? So I find acceleration is good in TRUE EV mode where I can keep up with regular traffic from a dead stop, however after I have used that batteries resources up I try to use EV of the HV only mode as much as possible.
I find that in EV of HV only mode to be so slow from a dead stop. I try to press the pedal so that the I go to the halfway bar or max of EV mode. However it barely gets the car moving. I figure this is how the traditional Prius works. I think if I was to try to use this EV power to get to 25 mph it would take 15 seconds!
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I have noticed that when driving in EV mode when the car switches over to HV mode the Eco icon always lights up! Of course you can select Eco, or Power mode manually, but when it does this automatically, after the EV battery charge is used up, it keeps showing the Eco icon being lite not HV.
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Can you drive in EV mode with the A/C or heater running to keep you cool in summer and warm in winter? If so, how much does it change the range from the normal 13-14 miles of EV?
I'm trying to determine how short of a commute I would need to have to not use gas while still driving normally and not giving up climate control use.
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You can put your car in drive, but also, you can put it in the "B" position. What does that do? How do you best use it? And what does "B" stand for anyway?
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On a long downhill, with EV mode selected, the car goes out of EV mode when one surpasses 65. When slowing down from 70, the car will not go into EV mode until one is down to 62. THen it stays there until one exceeds 65. I wonder if there is any difference in what is happening when one is going downhill at 66 vs 61? Both are using 0 gas. But one counts as an EV mile and the other does not. Here in high Colorado, this sort of thing makes the EV ratio somewhat meaningless.
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On occasion - not frequently - I'll notice the gasoline engine kicking in when I'm in ECO/EV mode with plenty of EV battery left. Today it happened on a relatively flat street, going maybe 30 mph, without the a/c or anything else on, and about 7 miles left on the EV battery indicator. In less than 30 seconds it went back to pure EV and the gasoline engine never kicked in again.
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Today I drove my Prius Plug-in from my home almost to the highway in EV mode. When about one minute from the highway, I pushed the PWR mode button twice, on and off, and the ice came on for warmup. All the green symbols above the speedometer were cleared. I then again pressed ECO to bring back that mode.
I believe the vehicle was in what I think of as blended HV mode. This mode blends the extra battery capacity of the Plug in with the ICE. After a 40 mile trip, the available EV miles dropped from 13.9 to 1.2, and the trip meter registered 76 MPG. I went up and down a serious hill which probably reduced the mileage.
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Is there a difference between full EV mode and the early HV mode where you are in EV (left half of the indicator on the HSI screen)? Aren't you in full electric in both situations? If so, then why would you need to manually toggle between the two modes?
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I've noticed occasionally my music goes silent for a second or so when the iPod is plugged into the USB port. But then it will play without missing a beat for long periods. what could be wrong? No skips when using the aux plug.
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I'm convinced this is a real problem with my 3-month-old 2013. When I bring it in for the 5K service, soon, this will be my No.1 issue. When running in EV mode, if you happen to start the ICE it will continue to run when you stop. In fact, it races - it doesn't just idle. I've tested this by being stationery for up to 5 minutes. This occurs not just the first time the ICE cycles on and off - it's every time. It only stops while driving (or by powering off).
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I had my brand new plug in prius for 6 whole days before my house was hit by lightening, while the car was charging. The car has been in the shop for 3 weeks since that has happened and they eventually replaced the "electric vehicle recharge unit". But it still doesn't seem right to me. one of the things that is happening is that the EV switch is not operating while I'm driving.
For instance: I'm driving locally on EV and then get on the highway and when I get to the point that the engine kicks on, I hit the EV switch to turn it off and move to hybrid mode. However, even though the EV light is off, the battery continues to discharge and will eventually completely discharge. To prevent this I do a number of maneuvers like hit the brakes repeatedly or hit every button the dash (EV, ECO) until it stops!
This cannot be normal but then again I only drove the car for 6 days before lightening struck. It also happens the other way. If I'm driving on the highway and get off and then hit the EV switch to turn the electric back on, the electric motor doesn't kick in.Am I imagining this? Is there some fancy way to switch EV and back on the fly?
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Wondering if there is another factor involved here...such as the wrong gauge. I'm routinely seeing battery temps in the mid to low 90s even when it is pretty warm weather and I am in EV. Is this possible? On my old Gen3 even when I use the battery just a little bit on warm days it would go over 110. Does the lithium chemistry just keep it that much cooler? Or does the cooling system keep it that much cooler? Or both? What are other people seeing for battery temps?
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I was wondering if the ICE spins (without fuel) when you go over 43mph in the Toyota PHEV Prius while in EV mode?
I think the only way to be able to tell would be with a SGII... I know I cannot feel the ICE start to spin when coasting downhill and crossing the threshold. I just see the RPM on my SG to go ~975...
Look at the AMP readings while in EV mode. Seen more than 120-130amps?
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I just purchased a '12 PIP advanced a couple days ago. Love it so far, but I'm confused about why it keeps on switching out of EV mode before the charge is used up. My commute is 6 miles, so I assumed that I would be able to get to my office with no problem, using only electric. Without accelerating quickly or going above 62 mph, the car still switches into hybrid mode numerous times, for no apparent reason, resulting in an average of about 90 mpg by the time I get to work, still with a lot of juice left in the battery.
Why this is happening? My dreams of going for months without filling up with gas are starting to fade away.
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Just bought a 2014 PIP Base and really want to set up that cool feature that tells you how much money you're saving compared to your old car. How to do it? I can't find the feature anywhere in any menu system nor can I find it in my manual.
Perhaps the answer is the PIP base doesn't have that feature?
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If I'm driving around town and have to accelerate to merge with traffic, the ICE will come on even though I'm in EV mode. I understand why that would/should happen. But why does it stay on for so long after that? It seems like it stays on for several minutes, even if you're driving slow after the the few seconds of acceleration. And I've noticed a few times under the above circumstances that the ICE is clearly on (I can feel it's on) but the dashboard indicator shows it is off. What gives?
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As I understand it pulse and glide should work at pretty much any speed. I'm trying to adopt pulse and glide but I drive on mostly 55 MPH hilly roads. If I'm in HV mode and have some EV range I find I can only get ICE shutoff below 42+/- MPH. However if I switch to EV mode as I back off the pedal the ICE will shut down at speeds up to 62+/-MPH. Switching from EV to HV while gliding at speeds above 43 MPH causes the ICE to resume turning. So I've tried accelerating to my desired pulse speed in HV coordinating releasing the pedal with selecting EV mode to begin the glide then beginning the next pulse by simultaneously pressing the pedal and mode button. Alternatively I can stay in EV mode for the glide then floor the pedal to restart ICE but that risks getting an undesired higher less efficient ICE power level and doesn't allow lower power pulses to allow glides to begin on downgrades.
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Initially I wasn't sure what 'B' position in the shifter. After googling (who will read manuals these days ) I came to know that it is for negotiating the steep downgrade so that brake doesn't heat up. I was wondering if B mode can be used while slowing down during normal driving condition, so that the energy is used for charging the battery rather than using up the brake pads.
I am quite amazed by the whole synergy drive tech. I also kind of little puzzled by the logic used for showing EV miles. If it gets depleted completely (zero), then it will never go up no matter how long you drive. However, if there is something left in the EV miles, and you switch to HV mode, it can go up during your regular driving.
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When I start my car in HV mode (not enough juice to drive in EV mode), I've noticed this noise sounding like the motor is starting. The noise lasts about 15 seconds and quiets down. When the noise is ongoing, the EV and ECO sign on the instrument panel would only show a silhouette (it doesn't light up to show the EV or ECO). Once it quiets down, the "EV" sign lights up.
I dont think this has to do with warming up the car because it's 85F outside where it's parked.
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I have noticed this, and thought it strange. I don’t see the charging arrows in the display.
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So I wanted to play with the nav system (specifically figure out how to make it find POI along my route... why it can't tell me the compass direction along with the distance to the 17 different McDonalds is beyond me) and when I turned the car on in accessory mode (not depressing the pedal) it shut off after two mins. I tried both "levels" of accessory mode and the behavior was the same. The car was plugged in and actively charging. What am I doing wrong?
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