Does the outside air temp make the engine come on to warm up even if everything else favors all electric mode? If so then at what temp does this happen?
I'm asking because there have been a couple of times that the engine came on right after start-up with a full charge and the climate control was not calling for heat.
I've had my PiP a month now. When ave temps were in the 30's EV range read 12.4 and I usually got an extra mile on my drives. With warming temps I was getting a read of 12.8 lately and 13.0 for the first time this morning. Thats with daytime temps of 60 but overnight it was still just upper 30's.
View 19 RepliesI ran about 2 miles on EV then switched to HV 1/2 mile before getting on the freeway. After about 3miles red temp light came on Outside air temp was about 65. I was on a 2 mile long single lane transition so I was unable to get off the freeway. I slowed down to about 60mph from 70mph the light went off. The light was on for about 2min.
I got off the freeway and opened the hood. The coolant had over flowed puking coolant all over my clean engine. I was able to run EV to dealer to check. My guess was a stuck thermostat! Dealer just called me and after calling manufacture to discuss the the error codes and my symptoms, there best guess was a stuck thermostat.
So at 3 months and 4700 miles on the OD my car threw an over temp indicator driving to work. 5:30 am about 60-65 degrees with a passenger driving over the Santa Susana grade which is a 2 1/2 or so mile grade it starts showing the over temp indicator.
I had not plugged in the night before and had only been in the car for about 7 minutes. I was driving somewhere around 70 miles an hour and that ICE was screaming like it always does. As I backed off the throttle the lamp went out and I cruised it to work. I checked under the hood at work and sure enough it had spewed coolant around the pressurized coolant tank.
I just want to circualate air. Everytime, I increase the speed of the fans, automatic temperature control kicked in. What is the proper way to bypass Temp control (no heat or AC)?
View 14 RepliesOn occasion - not frequently - I'll notice the gasoline engine kicking in when I'm in ECO/EV mode with plenty of EV battery left. Today it happened on a relatively flat street, going maybe 30 mph, without the a/c or anything else on, and about 7 miles left on the EV battery indicator. In less than 30 seconds it went back to pure EV and the gasoline engine never kicked in again.
View 2 RepliesI was doing some N coasting, mostly because it's a pain to try to keep regen at 0, and I noticed while the engine will start idling in drive at ~64mph (62mph GPS I imagine), the system indicates it'll stay off above that if I stay in N in EV mode. On the plus side, it can make for some higher speed engine-off coasting, but do that could push MG2's speed too high?
View 19 RepliesI have a Prius PIP. When warmed up after driving several miles, the engine does not shut off when stopped . This happens in the ECO mode. Any solutions?
View 14 RepliesMy son got this for his '05 Prius, and I plugged it into my PiP for awhile. I am learning to brake more slowly and accelerate more gradually, but the mileage is obviously way off. That seems to be about all it's good for, unless a check engine light comes on.
View 10 RepliesI'm confused about my PIP. Every night, I charge my battery fully and have 11-12 miles of charge to consume during the day. However, I've noticed that at least 10-25% of the time I'm driving in EV mode, the EV indicator goes off and my gas engine just runs. It's not because I'm driving the car hard - it even does it when stopped at a light.
My only guess is that either Toyota wants the gas engine to run once in a while or else it's trying to charge the Hybrid battery (even though I'm not using it at that time). It's a really bummer because even though I'm rarely out of EV mode, I'm burning what seems like a fair bit of gas - after 300 miles of mostly EV, I'm down to half a tank of gas?
I noticed today that my engine started up on an EV highway drive even though I didn't need it to. It came on somewhere between 65 and 67 mph when I was on a downhill portion of the highway and using only about 1/4 or less of my EV power bar. Why is the car designed to do this? Obviously I was well within the lowermost portion of the EV power band.
View 19 RepliesI have a vague memory that the PiP will start its petrol engine every XXX miles just for a maintenance warm up if it has not been used for that mileage. An engine start will reset that mileage back to zero and start recounting its EV miles until that limit is reached again. What is that limit?
View 19 RepliesFound the answer... it's the brake booster pump...
View 3 RepliesI bought a new 2014 Prius plug-in base model two weeks ago. No problems until yesterday.
The engine has started revving really loudly on occasion. It's much louder than the normal ICE noise in hybrid mode - 2 or 3x as loud (much louder than our regular Honda Civic engine).
When the revving happens when I'm in EV mode, the EV mode light on left side of dash stays on (but it's clearly not in EV mode). The EV and Eco symbols above the power bar go blank. The MPG won't go above 25 mpg, no matter if I'm not touching the accelerator. Switching from EV to Hybrid mode and back does nothing.
The only way to get it to stop is to stop the car, turn it off, turn it back on, and then it's fine - EV or Hybrid mode, it sounds normal again. I have not tried to drive more than a mile with the noise to see if it goes away. It occurs when:
-If the fan, heat or defrost is on when I turn the car on - turning them off doesn't stop the revving.
-If I switch the fan, heat or defrost on when stopped at a light - turning off doesn't stop it. (But it doesn't happen if I turn heat or defrost on while moving in EV or Hybrid mode.)
-If I switch from EV to Hybrid mode while stopped at a light.
The weather is cooler now and I'm fine with the ICE starting to warm up the engine, the compartment, etc, but the revving noise doesn't seem normal.
The engine check light is ON this morning. It said that there are problems for the hybrid system on the display. I sent it to dealer immediately.
View 7 RepliesExperienced this (Loud engine knock or rattle noise) regarding the service bulletin (T-SB-0010-12)? If so, did you take your vehicle in for service?
View 19 RepliesWhen I drive the PiP in EV Boost mode, the gas engine rpm stays very low, so is the engine sound. It sounds like it is just idling since it revs at 1,000 rpm.
When I am going 75 mph, the engine revs at very low rpm and I had a hard time keeping it below 80 mph. My mind is tricked into believing I am going slower than the actual speed. I think I am using the sound of the engine to judge the speed or something.
It felt like I am driving a different car, one with two more cylinders.
EV Boost is when you are in EV and go above 65 mph. ICE comes on and blend gas with electricity.
Is it just me? What are your experience in the EV Boost / Blended mode?
After my 25k service it seems the timer scheduler when the square button is pressed/held flashes at 7am. When i press the H button the hour advances to 12am then closes. I want to start the charge at 12am and finish at 5AM. The timer windows closes when i move the finish hour to 12am and then my regular clock hour changes. It used to be when i pressed/held the timer button the start time would show at 12 am and after setting it would go to the finish hour.
View 8 RepliesI got to work this morning and had about 3.5 miles left with the EV. Tried to go home and nothing works. I could not open the door. I thought it was my remote battery so I Changed the battery and still nothing works. I get the Orange caution light on the dash and a clicking sound from the engine area . No lights come on. Nothing.
View 5 Replies My lovely little 99 Forester was running fine up until about 6 weeks ago. Now it has always burned oil and my dealership gave the the run around saying it was "normal". Fine, so I've driven around with quarts of oil in my car for the last 8 years, and I dump a quart in every 500 miles. Every time I bring it into for oil changes them I've told them it burns oil.So 6 weeks ago, I start the car and no heat. The temp gauge shoots up to H and then the heat kicks on and the temp gauge goes immediately back down to N. I call the dealership - they say the thermostat is sticking and I'm find to drive it - I get an appt for 2 weeks later.
2 weeks later, car is in the shop and I'm told because I've been driving the car and its been overheating the headgasket is cracked. So I pay the $1,700 to repair it and replace the timing belt and temp gauge.I pick up the car and it is running WORSE than it was when I brought it in with the cracked headgasket and sticking temperature gauge. I call the dealership from the traffic signal up the road. They schedule another appt for a week later.
Week later I bring the car in and the oil light blinks on as I'm driving car into their driveway. Get a call the next day saying I need a new shortblock and it will be $3,000.I meet with dealership and tell them 1) they should have checked the engine/cylinders when they replaced the headgasket and 2) I'm not repaying them to do the headgaskets twice basically.
So they tell me they are crediting me for the headgasket repair job. And get this - the price is $3,000. It actually is $5,000, but they are crediting the headgasket repair job to that.I'm just disguisted and furious at this point. Car has 140,000 miles, and I'm really anal about changing the oil every 3,000 miles - despite the fact since 12,000 miles the car has been having 6 new quarts of oil dumped into it between changes.They are telling me "its my fault" the cylinders are bad because I allowed the engine to run repeatedly overheated.
My daily route includes the following road segment,
5 km steep climb (30 mph, 50 kph)
3 km fast downhill (60 mph, 100 kph)
4 km fast climb (45 mph, 70 kph)
6 km steep downhill (40 mph, 65 kph)
The speed between parentheses is the traffic flow speed for each segment.
Even though I tried varying the driving speeds and styles, a constant problem I have is , Before starting the final descent, my battery is almost full. Half way down the hill the battery fills up and the engine brake kicks in, which means energy is wasted.
1. Will the battery be affected in time by the fact that it fills up to 80% repeatedly?
2. If I drain the battery on the last climb by slowing down and switching to electric and then fully recharge it on the descent (and avoid engine braking), will this reduce the battery's life span?