Prius Plug-in 2012-15 :: Front Power Outlet Won't Work
Oct 5, 2013
Searched but couldn't find this topic..... My front power outlet won't work. I replaced the fuse, and the one inside the console works. I think I shorted something out trying to get a multi-socket device to work
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I have had my Plug-In Prius for 3 weeks.
I have been using an extension cord that stretches from the vehicle to my garage outlet . I charge every night. Apparently, my garage 110v outlet is on the same circuit as my bathroom 110v outlet. Today, that bathroom 110v outlet started to "click", "pop", and then caught fire partially melting it. Luckily I was at home and awake when this occurred.
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Just my luck, bought a brand new 2015 plug in and realized after 1 day the driver's windows doesn't roll down on auto, and the passenger side roll down doesn't work at all. Car only had 6 miles on it when I drove off the lot.
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The power outlet under the dashboard doesn't work. The one in the console does work. Question? Where are the power outlet fuses located and how many?
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I found this issue today after using my PIP for about a month. Front driver side's windows switch can not open/close the rear windows ( With un-lock button depressed), It can control front passenger side windows.
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It gets really cold in the winter (-30 C is common). Now I'm wondering how does the A/C button on the remote work? Is it literally just for remote air conditioning or can it also be used in freezing temperatures to remotely start the car to warm it up?
Normally I don't warm up my car but when it's been sitting outside in -20C or colder I sometimes let it run a few minutes just to clear the windshield before I drive.
If the A/C button doesn't work the heat also in the freezing cold, will this kit for the regular Prius work?
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I thought I would start a new thread on this issue. I recently had my car lose power and all warning lights on, I was able to coast to the shoulder and once safe I turned the car off, hoping that cycling the power would fix this odd problem. No such luck, the car was completely dead and unresponsive except for the door locks and the hazard lights.
So I hit the "SOS" safety connect button to get someone to come tow me. NO luck -- oops, I guess the car is *really* dead. I had my cell phone and the rest of the story is in another post.
Now here is my question: Is Safety Connect supposed to work when the car is off? It seems way less useful in case of an accident or malfunction if I can only call if I can turn the car on.
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On the passenger door the proximity sensor stopped working. 2014 PP. When I touch the door with the FOB in my pocket it does not unlock. If i swipe my finger on the door handle with the fob in my pocket it does not lock.
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I just bought a used 2012 pip with 26000 miles. I noticed that when I accelerate at the on ramp to reach the carpool lane, a noticeable vibration is felt from the front end of the car. The vibration subsides when I reach cruising speed. The steering wheel doesn't shake or vibrate, only the front end. I checked the tires and they look fine, they are the original tires that came with the car.
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When I plug up my phone and charger cord to either power outlet on my 2009 Camry the fuse blows. The charger cord and phone works in my other vehicles. I have checked other power cords in the Camry and it also blows the fuses. Would this be a relay that controls the fuses?
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This is driving me insane. I get popping and static from the front right speaker in my PIPA. It happens with the radio off. I can't make any sense of it. Happens typically at 30+ MPH. I know I will go into the dealer and they won't be able to duplicate it.
I have installed the nav bypass, but I don't think that could have any affect on it. I have also had side view mirrors and illuminated door sills installed. None of these have anything to do with the audio system.
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Shut off the right front seatbelt beep? I asked Toyota, they will not do it. Do you need a OBDII II to do it?
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After a short drive this evening (5 miles) in HV mode city 0-48mph driving I noticed a smell from the passenger front corner of the car. I went under the hood and looked and sniffed around. It is somewhere on the passenger side under the hood, but I did not see any fluids low or overflowing, and the oil looked normal. I just had my 15,000 mile service on Friday and only put on a few hundred miles since. I did not see anything dead in the radiator or under the car, and it is parking in a garage mostly.
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I have a 2005 camry le, but just now the power outlet doesnt work. I have checked multiple items in both the outlets, but none of them work. I checked the fuses, but they all look fine. The items work in other cars, just not this camry.
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What causes that glaze that collect inside my front window that I have to remove every couple days? Is there any way to prevent it. Early morning driving into direct sunlight I'm almost completely blinded.
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Was talking to a cab company running over a hundred Prius, they like the gas mileage.
Biggest problem running a hundred plus Prius in LA is the skirt front bumper is so low to the ground (for better aerodynamics) ... less than 5 inches ground clearance when loaded ... it hits the ground and bows the side moldings of the bumper.
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I put new mats in the car yesterday and noticed a little black access panel on the floor of the front passenger seat. What it is for?
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On a 2012 F-150, does the motor need to be running to use the AC outlet?
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In my 2012 prius plugin with 20638miles , my power cord is not working. I took it to my dealer this morning, Have any other plug in customers has had that problem and is it covered by warranty?
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An interesting thing happened at the gym today. While getting my 15 ft extension out at the Gym I apparently hit my reboot switch. Coming back out I unplugged and started, only to find out I had no power. Right away I knew what had happened, so I crawled back there and hit the switch up again. To my surprise, I now had a 14 mile range as compared to the usual 10.8. Apparently the traction battery liked sitting in the warm sun today. To reboot or not, that is the dilemma. There are many naysayers to this procedure, but I say they really have not tried it.
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After my 25k service it seems the timer scheduler when the square button is pressed/held flashes at 7am. When i press the H button the hour advances to 12am then closes. I want to start the charge at 12am and finish at 5AM. The timer windows closes when i move the finish hour to 12am and then my regular clock hour changes. It used to be when i pressed/held the timer button the start time would show at 12 am and after setting it would go to the finish hour.
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