Prius Plug-in 2012-15 :: Creeps Forward In Drive Unless Foot Is On Brake
Oct 29, 2012
I think this is dangerous. Several times I've stopped and hit the turn off button and had the car creep forward when I actually didn't shut off the engine. I had taken my old 07 Prius to the dealer to see if they could fix this and they said they couldn't.
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Heading out on 4 week 3k mile road trip. Have 12v adaptors for a very efficient laptop and smartphone.
It seems that in "Accessory" mode the PIP is using only the dinky 12V battery so this is not a healthy solution. Is there a recommended strategy to put the car in semi-ready mode and reduce all possible drain so that utilizing the 12V will not be draining the traction battery reserves much at all?
I'm thinking that perhaps trying to put the car in "ready" mode with the FOOT OFF the brake indeed fires up access to the traction battery without firing up other things that require the full power monty that Ready mode with the FOOT ON the brake requires. Seems to me the PIP is a great mobile office solution if we could gain access to traction battery reserves without running much else.
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I have a brand new 2010 Passat. I am unable to achieve a smooth start from stops and the car will lurch forward when I take my foot off the brake. Any small input from the gas pedal produces a jumpy start to the acceleration process. I have about 300 miles on the car. I bought this for my wife and she is very uneasy about driving it.
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You can put your car in drive, but also, you can put it in the "B" position. What does that do? How do you best use it? And what does "B" stand for anyway?
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I noticed today that my engine started up on an EV highway drive even though I didn't need it to. It came on somewhere between 65 and 67 mph when I was on a downhill portion of the highway and using only about 1/4 or less of my EV power bar. Why is the car designed to do this? Obviously I was well within the lowermost portion of the EV power band.
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My 09 Tacoma 91000 miles- symptom: when idling with foot on the brake, on occasion, experiences engine pause/subtle forward sensation; otherwise drives superb. Service shop said the issue is remedied by replacing the drive shaft thereby switching out the "yoke" which is the source of the problem. Shop said this is a common problem with 09 Tacomas. Does this need immediate repair or can I drive safely?
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While pressing the brake, the green light never comes on. The car is less than two weeks old and this is happening.
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Why does my 2008 Honda Fit intermittently shake when AC is on, in drive, and foot on brake?The shake is every 2 to 10 seconds, darn short each time, and hardly strong. (If it happens when I'm driving then it would be hard to notice). It definitely does not happen when in park or the AC is off.
Three weeks ago I got a rebuilt transmission. This issue started for the first time 3 days ago when the weather turned very hot for the first time in a while, although I have used the AC from time to time beforehand. Is it safe to drive over the weekend?
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I have a 2008 Nissan Rogue that is experiencing a shifter problem. The problem is that periodically the shifter will not go from the "park" position to the "drive" position after the car is started and your foot is on the brake. I have been able to drive the car by inserting a small screwdriver into the slot on the gear shift assembly to depress the switch that allows you to override the mechanism but as you can imagine that is tedious and what do you do if suddenly the screwdriver is lost - you go nowhere and you can't even get to store to buy another one because the car won't move!
I have had the car into the dealer twice now and they have been unable to correctly diagnose the shifter problem. They have said that it could be a failed solenoid that senses the brake pedal being depressed but so far that has checked out fine. They also thought that it may be a brake sensor and they asked me to keep an eye on the brake lights to see if they come on when the brake pedal is depressed and the lights do come on so they believe that is not an issue. They "repositioned" the shift assembly in the car center console thinking that it may be an improper position and they tightened it down into place but that has not corrected the problem either. They now tell me that the entire shift assembly needs to be replaced at a cost of $670.00 and I find that hard to believe let alone pay for!
The car has about 70,000 mile on it and it was recently in an accident that did deploy some side airbags and I am wondering too if the accident may have damaged the assembly in some way that caused the malfunction where the repairs may be covered by my insurance company. This has only started after the accident repairs were made and we never had a problem like this prior to that event.
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I first heard this on Car Talk on National Public Radio (sundays at 10, on the west coast). I heard the question but not the answer. Wife favored slow and hubby fast.
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After driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.
It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.
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I bought a brand new 2016 Camry LE. Sometimes when car sits for a while, and I shift from P to R, there is a clunking noise with foot on the brake. I tried with the parking break engage and it still does it.
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After my 25k service it seems the timer scheduler when the square button is pressed/held flashes at 7am. When i press the H button the hour advances to 12am then closes. I want to start the charge at 12am and finish at 5AM. The timer windows closes when i move the finish hour to 12am and then my regular clock hour changes. It used to be when i pressed/held the timer button the start time would show at 12 am and after setting it would go to the finish hour.
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When applying brake in a traffic at low speed, I found there is a jerking movement forward of the car. I need to apply harder so the car can stop completely. No problem at high speed on highway though.
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I've never used "foot parking brake" on any of my cars before. The one I have has a standard automatic transmission when I put in "park" the pin inside the transmission locks it.
Do I just press the "P" park button or press the "foot parking brake" first?
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My friend has a prius and had her brake pedal sawed off modification. Funny cause she says that her foot is always slipping off the brakes now. It was always a bogus fix, to fix nothing caused by errant drivers.
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I have 2005 Prius, 53K miles on it. Bought it as used car few months ago. It has been running great since then.
Since last few weeks I have been hearing a soft beep every time I take foot off the brake. Today I had my windows down while driving and I realized that the soft beep is actually a loud noise like squeak or beep. I can hear a noise every time I take foot off the brake (NOT when putting foot on the brake).
Anyone can standing near the car or other car drivers at red-light can hear the sound too.. This happens when- the Car is in D, I take foot off the accelerator and press the brake (to slow down or complete stop) then take foot off the brake.
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Whenever I stop the car I push the P button, and the push the foot parking brake, then I stop the car with the start/stop button. Yesterday I started the car, and forgot to push off the parking foot brake. I put the stick on D and then I started to roll, after two seconds I saw the red lamp on the dashboard telling me there's a problem, so I check and to my surprise I saw that the break was on.
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In the last couple of months I have noticed my '10 Prius III begins to roll forward or backwards about a foot depending upon which drive mode I select without releasing the brake. So here's the normal scenario I get in the car have my foot on the brake, turn it on wait for the ready beep/light, my foot has never left the brake or lessened pressure but not so much as to trigger the hill assist, I shift into D to go forward but say a car is coming and I don't want to go yet my car moves about a foot forward and I feel the brake pump up and then resist my foot. The same thing happens if I put it in R she rolls back a foot and stops. I don't recall noticing it before the great ECU update but I also can't say it didn't happen before the update was accomplished.
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When I take my foot off the brake pedal quickly, like after a stoplight has turned green, the brake pedal makes a “clump!” sound. I have looked at the pedal mechanism and it is for sure coming from that area. It sounds as if a rubber bumper should be there, but is not. When I take my foot off more slowly, no sound comes from the area. Is this something I need to put on my 5K checkup list? My car has 1700 miles on it now.
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I'm getting this warning light coming up frequently - it's the same light that appears when I engage the foot brake.
Does this mean something thing is about to catastrophically fail?
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