Just finished my second week in my PIP and I started to notice a clicking noise everytime I press the brake. Even if I'm stopped in my garage I still hear it. Not sure it was there from day 1 and I just didn't notice because I had the SAT cranked up or if it's recently started.
View 6 RepliesI just noticed that when I am taking a hard right turn such as getting on the freeway or exiting, I hear random clicking noises in rapid successions in random intervals. the traction control alarm also lights up when this happens. is this normal? it sounds like relays are going crazy. I have not tried left turn yet since there isn't many opportunities around.
Clicking happens under hard cornering which in turn causes TC light to come on and when still under acceleration.
I've been mostly content with my Prius Plug-in for nearly a year now. But, as a driver very consciously aware of what my car is doing, I have many complaints concerning the internal combustion engine igniting when not needed, or remaining on for far too long. I do my best to work around them, but I feel the need to enumerate my complaints and vent about them. Note I live in southern California where cold weather is extremely rare, and I consciously don't use the heater or AC.
ICE ignites when braking downhill on a full charge. I've heard users say this is necessary because if the battery is full, regenerative braking will overcharge the battery.
ICE ignites if I step on the accelerator ever so slightly too hard. I understand that Toyota claims it needs to use ICE to deliver the extra power to the wheels asked for by the driver, but I just don't believe that. The engine usually simply idles and does not power the wheels at all when this happens, meanwhile the wheels are still running on 100% EV power. I know this because I've become in tune to exactly when the ICE powers the wheels and when it's not. The easiest sign of ICE actually powering wheels is when the accelerator begins to vibrate and I hear the ICE rev up. The second sign is by watching the MPG meter. If you're cruising at something like 50 MPH, and the ICE is idling, you'll see it getting about 80-90 MPG. When it actually supplies useful power, it suddenly drops down to 50 or below.
ICE ignites if the car moves faster than 65 MPH. This seems totally arbitrary to me. For example, it does not matter if you're accelerating steep downhill in neutral, or on a level highway just very slowly accelerating past 65. You can watch the power meter the whole time, and even if it doesn't get anywhere near the (power) section to the far right, the ICE still ignites as soon as you hit 66. In those situations, why does it even think it needs any extra power? And to top it all off, all it really does is idle for at least a minute anyway.
The ICE runs only momentarily, but here's the kicker: If you immediately let go of the accelerator, decelerate to below 65 MPH, or even come to a full stop at a red light, the ICE still continues to run for at least a minute or two. Worse still, it idles for about a minute regardless of speed or power, then suddenly decides that it should power the wheels for a few seconds even if no variables have changed, and it does this for about 30 seconds more before finally deciding to suddenly pop back into pure EV mode. How you work around all of this? Stop at a red light, shut off the car, and restart it. As it powers on, it stays in EV mode, proving to you that it never needed to be sitting there idling in the first place.
The other day I reversed into a parking spot, and noticed as I was braking and reversing a loud clicking sound is coming from what seems the front driver side engine area. Every time I would brake it would click. I read of this problem on the Gen 6 and apparently there is a TSB for the front Rotors needing to me re-machined? The funny thing is this only happens when I reverse and brake, but it only happens randomly.
View 14 RepliesI noticed recently that my car started this popping noise when braking in reverse gear. I never ran over anything and babied it for all the 6000 miles it has on the ODO. 2015 Camry
View 4 RepliesI got to work this morning and had about 3.5 miles left with the EV. Tried to go home and nothing works. I could not open the door. I thought it was my remote battery so I Changed the battery and still nothing works. I get the Orange caution light on the dash and a clicking sound from the engine area . No lights come on. Nothing.
View 5 RepliesThis morning I went thru a known rough patch on the road and was applying light pressure on the brakes as usual (EV doing about 20 mph). Once the wheels started bumping, a loss of deceleration occurred as expected but what I did not expect was a fairly fast clicking sound (about 30Hz). I *believe* it sounded like the click that is heard when the traction battery is engaged in READY mode, but I'm not completely sure. Where it came from since I was using the A/C and rag chewing on the ham radio. The clicking subsided once I lifted the foot from the brake pedal and reapplied the brakes. No indicator lights came on and the car continued behaving normally.
View 3 RepliesSo I've my Prius C2 for about 4 months now. Sometimes, when I want to get into my back hatch and I know the doors are unlocked, I cannot get it open, like I have to really yank it open to make it work. Something like suction cupping together...
View 14 RepliesJust recently my Prius has been making a clicking noise when turning right and braking at the same time. It only happens during a right while braking and not while stopping straight or left. I only have 27K miles on it. I'm not due for an oil change for a couple thousand miles and was going to wait until then to mention it to the dealer.
View 18 RepliesEver since I had my Prius in the dealership for the most recent brake recall I noticed a noise (which is hard to describe, something like a muffled clicking) when turning and braking at low speed. If I let my foot off the brake the noise seems to go away. This seems to be happening on both left and right turns.
View 19 RepliesMy PIP makes a moderately loud buzzing noise, apparently from the compressor upon pressing the start button, in EV mode, and pressing the climate control "auto" button. It goes away, but seems unusual. AC works fine? I don't remember it being so apparent before.
View 4 RepliesThis is driving me insane. I get popping and static from the front right speaker in my PIPA. It happens with the radio off. I can't make any sense of it. Happens typically at 30+ MPH. I know I will go into the dealer and they won't be able to duplicate it.
I have installed the nav bypass, but I don't think that could have any affect on it. I have also had side view mirrors and illuminated door sills installed. None of these have anything to do with the audio system.
I got home yesterday around 5 pm, and after 5 1/2 hours, noticed a buzzing noise from the battery area. It was 50 degrees out, so I don't think it needed cooling? Anyway, I plugged it in for a minute and the sound changed, then unplugged and after a few minutes the sound shut off. Never experienced this before, so long after shutting down. No sound this morning and charging now, no problem so far.
View 10 RepliesExperienced this (Loud engine knock or rattle noise) regarding the service bulletin (T-SB-0010-12)? If so, did you take your vehicle in for service?
View 19 RepliesAfter my 25k service it seems the timer scheduler when the square button is pressed/held flashes at 7am. When i press the H button the hour advances to 12am then closes. I want to start the charge at 12am and finish at 5AM. The timer windows closes when i move the finish hour to 12am and then my regular clock hour changes. It used to be when i pressed/held the timer button the start time would show at 12 am and after setting it would go to the finish hour.
View 8 RepliesI am experiencing a buzzing rattle coming from the left corner of the dashboard in the area near the horizontal speaker. It's not loud but it's annoying. It only happens when the car is moving. It doesnt seem to be affected by the audio system being powered on or off. The best thing I can think of to describe it the sound a Geiger counter makes, but not as loud.
View 17 RepliesI have been getting increased noise coming from the back of my car for the past month. So I jacked up the car and spun the tires and heard grinding noises in the rear right. I have a 2012 ToyotaPrius plug-in with 33,000 miles. When driving the car around 40 miles an hour there would be a howling sound coming from the back of the car regardless of the type of pavement I was driving on.
So I took it to the dealer today and they had it up on the rack in about an hour later they came to me and said it needed new tires and it would be about $700 and that this was likely causing the noise. I said that there was no way that it was the tires so I went and showed the mechanic how old the sound was coming out of the back right wheel. He listened with his stethoscope on the wheel bearings and said that he did hear some noise in there but still thought it was the tires.
Happened to go down to garage to get something from pip about 3 hours after charge was complete and noticed loud hum coming from right rear wheel well area.
We had not had any lightning storms, electrical interruptions or anything odd; house is on whole house surge protection, and 240v evse has been working fine.
Hum disappeared when car was booted up in ev for a moment and then turned off. Hasn't come back on in an hour.
I purchased a 2011 Sonata Limited Edition TODAY. It was a lucky find as the car has less than 30k miles. As I was driving home (back roads and interstate), I heard a clicking noise every time I hit the brakes. I do not hear this noise when I back up and brake, only when the car is in drive and I am braking.
View 3 RepliesWhen decelerating and braking, there is a strange clicking noise, and it seems to be coming from the brakes in some way on my 2002 Accent. It does sound like a metal clicking. Steering doesn't affect it, it happens on a corner or on the motorway. The only way to stop it is accelerate. The clicking is faster when the car is going faster, and slower when the car is going slower. The brake pedal isn't vibrating or anything, and I cant actually feel it.
I am certain this is a braking issue as it only started just after I got new brake pads about 2 months ago. It is not transmission related or anything like that. I have had some suggestions about axle's and CV joints but I doubt it's either of those as they are in good condition, and as I said, this started directly after having new brake pads installed!
2002 Ford Focus SE Mileage: 140000
Symptoms: When turning right, especially at low speed while braking, it makes this rapid clicking noise, disappears once you let go of the brake.
In the past when it made this kind of noise, usually goes away after I made sure the brake pads clips are securely clipped around the caliper, but it's not working this time. No noise while braking going forward or turning left. Seems to be worse at lower speed and any right turn can bring on the noise, does not have to be a full-lock turn.
So far what I've done: Made sure the brake pads clips are secured (horribly designed), lug nuts are torqued at correct spec, no obvious broken linkage, bar, arm, coil, or CV boots under quick inspection.