Prius Plug-in 2012-15 :: Click When Driving In Reverse And Hit The Brakes
Feb 3, 2016
My 2014 pip has an odd noise I first notice when pull out of the garage. When I am traveling in reverse and hit the brakes there is a loud click as if something in the suspension is shifting. Then when in drive I have the same click the first time I hit the brakes.
I also hear a metallic rattle on the highway over expansion joints. The dealer says that noise is nothing but coupled with the click under breaking I am sure some item is loose.
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Okay, I never experienced this on my Prius C, but now that's I've upgraded to a 2013 Prius Plug-In, I can duplicate it:
When traveling on the highway (at like 60MPG) and I brake a little hard (but not pedal fully to the floor), I hear and feel a 'click' through the brake pedal as it slows through 25MPH. A car pulled out in my lane, and I had to brake suddenly and felt/heard this 'click' at that speed. Did some testing on an off-ramp with the same situation (50MPH - heavy breaking - feel/hear click at 25MPH).
I think this is the transition from the regen braking to the brake pads, but I'm unsure. Not sure if it's ABS either. I've looked at a ton of Gen3 braking threads here on PC, but I was unable to find my exact issue. The car only has 3000 miles on it,
Loving my upgrade so far (but having weird fueling problems - doesn't seem like I can 'fill' the tank, always lose the first 'blip' too fast), and enjoy the freedom of being able to charge for local driving.
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I have had my Plug-In Prius for 3 weeks.
I have been using an extension cord that stretches from the vehicle to my garage outlet . I charge every night. Apparently, my garage 110v outlet is on the same circuit as my bathroom 110v outlet. Today, that bathroom 110v outlet started to "click", "pop", and then caught fire partially melting it. Luckily I was at home and awake when this occurred.
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I just got my brakes fixed. I heard squeaking and they were rough. At the shop, they told me that the brakes had glazed. They had to machine the rotors. Mileage: 20K.
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Great car, Love it! It's a big improvement from the 2006 Prius.
When applying the brakes and holding the pedal down, I notice that the indicator for slippery/traction yellow icon appears in my dash when completely stopped.
There is no map option on the steering wheel that allows you to switch back to the Nav/Map system on the HD display. Is there a voice command?
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I have already posted about the groaning sound in my Prius v but yesterday had to have it towed because the brakes locked while driving in reverse. I was going backwards, the car stopped, i went to depress brake pedal and i could not push down at all. It was totally locked. Happened twice.
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PIP does not charge the plug in battery while driving....
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I had my brand new plug in prius for 6 whole days before my house was hit by lightening, while the car was charging. The car has been in the shop for 3 weeks since that has happened and they eventually replaced the "electric vehicle recharge unit". But it still doesn't seem right to me. one of the things that is happening is that the EV switch is not operating while I'm driving.
For instance: I'm driving locally on EV and then get on the highway and when I get to the point that the engine kicks on, I hit the EV switch to turn it off and move to hybrid mode. However, even though the EV light is off, the battery continues to discharge and will eventually completely discharge. To prevent this I do a number of maneuvers like hit the brakes repeatedly or hit every button the dash (EV, ECO) until it stops!
This cannot be normal but then again I only drove the car for 6 days before lightening struck. It also happens the other way. If I'm driving on the highway and get off and then hit the EV switch to turn the electric back on, the electric motor doesn't kick in.Am I imagining this? Is there some fancy way to switch EV and back on the fly?
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From my understanding, there are 3 batteries in the PIP. 2 of them are for EV mode, and 1 is for Hybrid mode. they are all hooked up together and also the electric motor when it is fully charged. when the first pack (ev pack) get's depleted, it will disconnect via relays from the remaining 2 packs. then when the second pack is depleted (second EV pack) it will discontinue from the last remaining pack. below is a small simple diagram of what it looks like:
Fully charged: (EV1)-----(EV2)-----(HYBRID)-----[motor]
1st pack depleted. still in EV mode: (EV1)---x---(EV2)-----(HYBRID)-----[motor]
both EV packs depleted and in HYBRID mode: (EV1)---x---(EV2)---x---(HYBRID)----[motor]
(x = disconnected)
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If I'm driving around town and have to accelerate to merge with traffic, the ICE will come on even though I'm in EV mode. I understand why that would/should happen. But why does it stay on for so long after that? It seems like it stays on for several minutes, even if you're driving slow after the the few seconds of acceleration. And I've noticed a few times under the above circumstances that the ICE is clearly on (I can feel it's on) but the dashboard indicator shows it is off. What gives?
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A few seconds after the PiP is turned on and I start moving, it gives a little beep.
It's not the doors locking because that happens a few seconds later when I speed up.
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I bought carpet and loaded it into the PIP, needing to strap down the hatchback with the carpet sticking out.
As soon as I drove off both turn signals started flashing and a tone beeping.
The flashers stopped after a minute, but the beeping sounded all the way home.Very Annoying.
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I am new to the Prius and have noticed that when cruising the car seams to surge or pulse while driving. Is this normal?
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Seeing that there is no tech area for the plug-in area of the forum, I must ask this somewhat general question here. Having just taken delivery of a pip I am wondering if there is any way to turn on the rear view camera when you are moving forward? It would actually provide better vision over the rear view mirror.
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As I was trying to use up as much E10 before refueling with E0 I was watching the miles to empty and noticed what seems strange, to me. When driving in EV mode, with the ICE off the miles to empty kept falling! Apparently miles to empty somehow includes EV miles. So I checked the MTE both before and after charging and saw no change which indicates EV miles don't count. So now I would like to know what does MTE mean?
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Today, I experienced the coldest temperatures yet on my drive to work. At one point, I saw a '24F' shown as the outside temperature (although not unusual for April in Minnesota):
Expected: My gas mileage was down a bit. I was impressed it wasn't as bad as I would have expected from our 2005 Prius, though.
I should have expected: On the last 1/2 mile or so, when driving slow on the little bit of EV left while in the forced HV mode, I accidentally accelerated too much and forced on the ICE again (it had been previously on earlier in my 22 mile commute). This time, however, it was different because it didn't shut off immediately. I think the ICE had to do a second warm up. I'll have to watch that more closely next time (darn that cold weather)!
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I have a 2009 Corolla S and the symptoms are as follows:
1. Normal forward driving, brakes work fine (and as expected without sound).
2. In reverse, when I apply the brakes I hear a click (clunk) sound from the front brakes. It only makes the sound when I'm going from moving to stopping (IE: I cant just keep pressing the brake once stopped to generate the noise). But if I let myself continue in reverse and press pedal again, it will make the same sound (very repeatable). I don't need to go forward to replicate the sound, I can just stay in reverse, stop (CLICK), continue in reverse, stop (CLICK), etc.
3. The it's noticable in the pedal. I can feel it on the brake with my foot when the noise happens.
4. It happens when I depress the brake pedal about 1/4 down, a gentle stop. And usually happens every time when I back out of my driveway or parking spot.
5. GF's sister's 2009 corolla CE does NOT make this noise in reverse.
6. 20,000 miles, Orig tires/brakes, didn't happen 4ish months ago.
I plan on putting winter tires on next month. Perhaps I'll take a look at the pads to make sure they aren't moving around, but wouldn't I also hear the noise in forward motion? Or when I switch from forward to reverse?
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This is on my 98 F-150 4x4 with the 5.4 and 4R100. What happens is when I put the truck in reverse and get on and off the brakes, every time I do so a relay clicks. It sounds like it's right up behind the instrument cluster.
I stuck my hand back there and can feel the click resonating in the metal brackets, but I can't figure out where it's coming from. It's never done this before and I'm worried something may fail at an inopportune time.
What this may be? It's a really loud click too and only does this in reverse. Park, drive, neutral etc. are all fine. The odd thing is when I hear the click everything still works as normal, parking lights, brake lights, reverse lights.
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I am driving along on Interstate 26, smooth road, no weather going on, clear night, about 7:30 pm, and the rear window on the driver's side just exploded.
Oblong hole in window, rest like a spider web. All fell out as I drove home.
Nothing hit it, had not been raised or lowered for hours, there is NO reason that I know for it to have happened. Bought car in March, 2012. 12,000 miles on it. NO other damage to car, inside or out.
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Yesterday while driving on the freeway in EV mode, my PIP (one of the first delivered to the states) flashed the "Check Hybrid System - Stop the vehicle in a safe place" message. I was near my house so I just went home. My SG2 showed code P0C3E, which is apparently an inverter over temperature code.
Took it to the dealer this morning and they just informed me that the car needs a new inverter, but no other details… "internal fault" is what he said.
While googling, i found this recall notice:
Green Car Congress: Toyota recalling about 701,000 Gen 3 Prius vehicles in US over software issue in inverter assembly
that doesn't talk specifically about the PIP and implies that it is a software problem, but goes on to say if the car is in a fault condition the inverter will be replaced. of course, it's possible that a software problem leads to hardware damage.
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After my 25k service it seems the timer scheduler when the square button is pressed/held flashes at 7am. When i press the H button the hour advances to 12am then closes. I want to start the charge at 12am and finish at 5AM. The timer windows closes when i move the finish hour to 12am and then my regular clock hour changes. It used to be when i pressed/held the timer button the start time would show at 12 am and after setting it would go to the finish hour.
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