I first heard this on Car Talk on National Public Radio (sundays at 10, on the west coast). I heard the question but not the answer. Wife favored slow and hubby fast.
View 13 RepliesIs there a difference between full EV mode and the early HV mode where you are in EV (left half of the indicator on the HSI screen)? Aren't you in full electric in both situations? If so, then why would you need to manually toggle between the two modes?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 210,000 miles. I had had very few problems with the car in the past 11 years - 2 sensor problems, transmission related at 100K and oxygen sensor at 160K. I have done oil changes every 3000-4000 miles, transmission flushes every 30K, and timing belt replacements every 60K. However, within the last month, the car sometimes dies when I fast or slow brake to a stop. Due to the high mileage, I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced and had the timing/tuneup checked. There is no check computer light lit. What else can I check?
View 4 RepliesThis morning it was COLD !!! I had the Fan on, with No Defog (Defrost), with the Air Direction to the feet and windshield and Temp Control at 68 degF.
Before I got to work I pressed the Temp Control OFF button.
I have had the traction light come on twice when at a stop light. Once was when I was reaching back to give my daughter her juice that was in the front cup holder. The other time I was trying to get something out of my pocket to give to someone in the car.
View 11 RepliesOn page 93 of the Prius PHV Owners Manual, under the heading "Capacity reduction of the hybrid battery (traction battery)" is the following language:
"By observing the following precautions, battery charge decline can be suppressed."
"Avoid driving near the top speed for EV driving ( --P.40)"
To me this says don't drive EV 60 MPH, don't drive EV 55 MPH, maybe 50 MPH is OK is not uphill, probably 45 MPH is OK.
The manual also says "Also, if the hybrid battery (traction battery) capacity reduces, the EV driving range decreases. However, vehicle performance does not significantly become worse."
I wonder if this is a statement that the warranty will not cover capacity decline?
While pressing the brake, the green light never comes on. The car is less than two weeks old and this is happening.
View 19 RepliesMy clock seems to slow down by about a min every week or two... I wish the whole system would "sync" when connected to entune.
View 11 RepliesI'm talking basically about the equivalent of your standard pulse and glide in the regular Prius. But the PiP would allow you to do it up to 62 mph. However, you would manually have to toggle the HV/EV button to do it. It would be tiresome.
View 12 RepliesI'm convinced this is a real problem with my 3-month-old 2013. When I bring it in for the 5K service, soon, this will be my No.1 issue. When running in EV mode, if you happen to start the ICE it will continue to run when you stop. In fact, it races - it doesn't just idle. I've tested this by being stationery for up to 5 minutes. This occurs not just the first time the ICE cycles on and off - it's every time. It only stops while driving (or by powering off).
View 17 RepliesAfter a full complete stop or slow down to almost complete stop upon acceleration from that stop or slow down my dash brake light blinks and yells at me for the standard amount of time then goes away. It only does it upon acceleration its weird its almost instantaneous with me pressing the gas pedal. No squealing noise or anything else is coming from the rotors and everything feels normal its just starting to get annoying as hell.
About 6 months ago I replaced my pads and rotors with the drilled and slotted kit performance-cafe offers and had it professionally installed because, I'm lazy and it would have take me years to do it. This problem only started recently so I'm pretty sure its something else or something went bad. What I should check or have specifically looked at if I take it in?
Have been having cascading problems since installing PIS 10kWh system in April. Early system shutdown, failed BMS boards, then triggering of Prius warning lights. The latter required disconnecting the 12v battery to 'reboot' and cancel them per Robb of PIS. But then, when attempting to do an electrical load test using air con & other accessories, we triggered several yellow warning lights that do no go away with a reboot. Have been told that we need to have a dealer read the codes to troubleshoot.
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I have a 2008 Pruis that acts like it has a plugged heater core but I wonder if there is more to it. I thought it had air in the system so I drew the cooling system down with vacuum and was able to get another half quart of coolant in it with a radkit plus vacuum coolant filling tool but it did not change anything. At idle there is no heat until you go up a hill at highway speeds when the heat starts to flow. As soon as the engine slows down or shuts off, there is no heat again. I was going to backflush the heater core but after I noticed all the valves and pumps in the cooling system, I stopped because I wondered if there could be a problem with any of those mechanical parts in the heating system. I don't think that there is still air in the system because the engine temperature is good and the coolant level is full when you remove the radiator cap. With the engine idling, all the hoses in the front of the engine are hot including to the heater storage tank. If you touch the aluminum pipes going into and out of the heater core, one is hot and the other is cold. Should my next step be to back flush the heater core?
View 18 RepliesIn my 2010 IV, the brake lights activate on the late side. I can only roughly measure it, but brake lights go on when the brake pedal is depressed at least 1.5 inches. I am used to brake lights in other cars activating with a light touch of the pedal.
Problem is: this really ratchets up the danger of tailgaters, who cannot see when you are beginning to stop. Occasionally, a driver who has been trailing me asks if the brake lights are working properly.
It's an oldie, 1984, but so far still kicking. 6 cyl 2.8, carb. I took a little couple hundred mile trip a few weeks ago. Rolled back into town no problems.
A few days later I took a ride and the ranger would stall when approaching a stop sign or light. I would hold the pedal down a little to keep it running but it sounded like it wanted to die if I didn't feather the pedal to rev a bit.
I drove a few days later, as I was going down the neighborhood road(25 mph), it acted like it wanted to just die. I mashed the pedal and it had no effect. It didn't stall and eventually I could rev the engine to continue.
It continues to do the same, then will all of a sudden take off like there was never a problem. If/when it does stall again, it can be hard to start until it does start and off I go again like there was never a problem. Other times, it will idle.
Another note: Sometimes when I go to start the engine it will stutter, intermittently turnover. It has done the same thing while actually driving, kind of a jerking deal.
Fuel filter, fuel pump, electrical? I'm going to first check/replace the fuel filter tomorrow.
New 2015 PIP, got it 2 months ago, and it drove fine till Thursday, when this message came up. I believe I first got a "Charge interrupted due to malfunction" and then the dreaded "Check Hybrid System, Stop the vehicle in a safe place." alert with all the engine lights on.
Took it to the dealer and they charge it up, cleared the message, and gave it back. They told me it was because I shared the car's outlet with something else, and then threatened to charge me money if I came back because it was my fault. Took it home, charged it exactly the way they told me to, and this morning the error message came back up. Going to take it in to the dealer tomorrow.
I think this is dangerous. Several times I've stopped and hit the turn off button and had the car creep forward when I actually didn't shut off the engine. I had taken my old 07 Prius to the dealer to see if they could fix this and they said they couldn't.
View 19 RepliesMy roommate owns a 1987 Toyota Van. Those vans that have the Motor under your butt. Anyways, when we make a sharp turn (like fliiping) in either direction, we start hearing a thumping noise... It goes fast or slow depending on how fast your whipping around. We thought it was a CV joint, but, it looks like there isn't a CV Joint (Axel) Where to start to solve this?? Cause even when it goes down the highway you go into the curve and your really hear it.. The lug Nuts on the van are Tight, I've checked. We may think its a wheel barring..
View 7 RepliesNew car. I think I could toggle between EV (green light) and HV (red light). Now instead of HV the car does switch between EV and EV/ECO. Am I doing something wrong. I want to avoid a trip to the dealer.
View 4 RepliesHeading out on 4 week 3k mile road trip. Have 12v adaptors for a very efficient laptop and smartphone.
It seems that in "Accessory" mode the PIP is using only the dinky 12V battery so this is not a healthy solution. Is there a recommended strategy to put the car in semi-ready mode and reduce all possible drain so that utilizing the 12V will not be draining the traction battery reserves much at all?
I'm thinking that perhaps trying to put the car in "ready" mode with the FOOT OFF the brake indeed fires up access to the traction battery without firing up other things that require the full power monty that Ready mode with the FOOT ON the brake requires. Seems to me the PIP is a great mobile office solution if we could gain access to traction battery reserves without running much else.
My 2010 Prius II has been acting strangely. When I go to turn it on the red blinking key light is really dim at first, but then it gets brighter. The car hasn't been starting right off the bat every time. It seems like it could be a battery issue?
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