Prius Plug-in 2012-15 :: 2013 No Codes But Hot Air Coming From AC
Jun 28, 2015
2013 PiP w/ 39,760 miles (oops, edited miles 6/29). 90ยบ day this afternoon and for the first time ever it blew hot air.
- No codes via OBDii reader.
- Sight glass is completely clear, clean and empty. No apparent liquid present with A/C on or off.
I think the compressor runs of an electric motor, not the front drive pulley.
Is there supposed to be a serpentine belt on the crank pulley (there is none)?
Screen on OBD ii does not light up AC in monitor area, so I guess it does not have monitor refrigeration.
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Edit (3/2/13): Problem identified. The timer was incorrectly and inadvertently set, so charging wouldn't start. See this post below.
Three times in the past two weeks, my PiP has refused to take a charge. It happened twice on Chargepoint chargers. The second time, I plugged in and the charger displayed "Vehicle refused charge" or something similar. Tried 10 times with the same result. Then it charged fine at home, and on 240v the next day.
This morning, it won't charge at home on 110. Plug in, the brick clicks, it draws about 200 ma for a couple of seconds, and then zero. Totally repeatable.
No fault codes on Torque. The dealer had it earlier this week and couldn't make it happen or see any fault codes either. The first time it happened the charging cable was off the ground, so I suspected a bent pin, but they all look fine.
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Just bought a used 2013 Prius plug-in. It has 15" alloy factory wheel. There is one lug nut in each wheel that is keyed. Where the key for this lug nut is stored?
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I've been trying to locate the TPMS Reset Button on my 2013 PIP. I've searched and saw that it's near the bottom of the steering column but I didn't see it.
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My red airbag light on the instrument cluster is coming on intermittently. Off to the dealer to try to solve the problem. Not how I envisioned my first full day of ownership!!
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I have been able to track down a rattle coming from the driver side rear door. The problem is that I don't know what to do to fix it (aside from taking the car to the dealership).
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Last night around 1:00, I was awakened by a noise I think was coming from my car parked below my window. It was plugged in at the time. I heard a loud, high pitched whine, followed by a couple of knocks or thumps, then a sound like R2D2 makes when he turns his head, then a couple more knocks, and another R2D2 noise. I think I may also have seen lights flashing around the the edges of my blackout blinds, but am not sure, since I had just been sound asleep.
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I am experiencing a buzzing rattle coming from the left corner of the dashboard in the area near the horizontal speaker. It's not loud but it's annoying. It only happens when the car is moving. It doesnt seem to be affected by the audio system being powered on or off. The best thing I can think of to describe it the sound a Geiger counter makes, but not as loud.
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I have been getting increased noise coming from the back of my car for the past month. So I jacked up the car and spun the tires and heard grinding noises in the rear right. I have a 2012 ToyotaPrius plug-in with 33,000 miles. When driving the car around 40 miles an hour there would be a howling sound coming from the back of the car regardless of the type of pavement I was driving on.
So I took it to the dealer today and they had it up on the rack in about an hour later they came to me and said it needed new tires and it would be about $700 and that this was likely causing the noise. I said that there was no way that it was the tires so I went and showed the mechanic how old the sound was coming out of the back right wheel. He listened with his stethoscope on the wheel bearings and said that he did hear some noise in there but still thought it was the tires.
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I am in the process of tracking down a very intermittent "tick" sound coming from the rear driver side door area. How to remove the door panel.
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After my 25k service it seems the timer scheduler when the square button is pressed/held flashes at 7am. When i press the H button the hour advances to 12am then closes. I want to start the charge at 12am and finish at 5AM. The timer windows closes when i move the finish hour to 12am and then my regular clock hour changes. It used to be when i pressed/held the timer button the start time would show at 12 am and after setting it would go to the finish hour.
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Have been having cascading problems since installing PIS 10kWh system in April. Early system shutdown, failed BMS boards, then triggering of Prius warning lights. The latter required disconnecting the 12v battery to 'reboot' and cancel them per Robb of PIS. But then, when attempting to do an electrical load test using air con & other accessories, we triggered several yellow warning lights that do no go away with a reboot. Have been told that we need to have a dealer read the codes to troubleshoot.
Read more: [URL] ....
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I am about to finish up my graduate studies here in Ohio, after which, my wife and I will be headed back to California. We are in desperate need of a second car, but have decided to wait until we move to get one. My wonderful in laws have said that they are willing to split the cost of a new car with us. With that said, we have already decided that we want to get a Prius, but we can't decide which one. We both really like the V. We love how roomy the car is. This is very important to us because we are going to start a family soon. However, we also like the regular Prius and the PiP. I really like the PiP but am a little concerned about the new batteries, and I am not sure that I want to pay the early adapter premium assuming one is even available. But, only paying half for a PiP sounds rather tempting. Considering all that I just said, if you were in my shoes what car would you get and why?
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Just wondering, is there a recommended procedure or speed range to shift in or out of EV mode while operating, or should it be done while the car is stopped?
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New to the Prius family. Bought a 2014 PIP advanced last week strictly as an economic play. Am noob when it comes to driving techniques, currently average 72 mpg on 90 mi. trips with one charge, so doing better than I expected. I did read up on the Pulse and Glide techniques for the standard Prius and the 'verification' of the glide portion for those is the lack of any power arrows emanating from either the ICS , MG2 or battery on the MID. I have been unable to replicate this on the PIP. In other words, when I am 'gliding' on my PIP, the ICS is off but there always seems to be a green charge indicator flowing back to the batteries from the front wheels.
Keep in mind, my foot is on the accelerator slightly, there is no 'white' bar protruding into the CHG area or the ECO area and I know I am 'gliding/coasting' as no matter how long I am in this sweet spot, even though the charge arrows are active, I DO NOT top up the battery at all, which says to me the car is indeed 'gliding' without the regenerative brakes or ICS in play and it certainly FEELS like I'm gliding as with over-inflated tires (44/42) the PIP seemingly coasts forever. I'm thinking this is a different behavior from a standard Prius in this 'glide' sweet spot, as, at least on my PIP, I can never get the MID to blank out in terms of energy flow. I.E. have you managed a 'pulse and glide' in a PIP getting the all energy flow arrows to disappear .
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I am thinking of upgrading to a pip. I work in my car and was wondering if I plug it in can I still have the a/c running while it is plugged in or not? i read somewhere that if you turn the car into ready mode the systems won't allow it.
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We just picked up our PIP and are super excited......except that the GPS is locked on Kentucky? It does not locate us here in Sacramento, CA and the dealer said if we can't get it working, they obviously will be fixing it.
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New car. I think I could toggle between EV (green light) and HV (red light). Now instead of HV the car does switch between EV and EV/ECO. Am I doing something wrong. I want to avoid a trip to the dealer.
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When I get in to go somewhere in the morning sometimes the EV sign in the car is lit up and sometimes it is just the silhouette of the car on the right side. I know I am driving in Ev and it says Ev in the light on the left side but why the difference. Am I making any sense??
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This morning it was COLD !!! I had the Fan on, with No Defog (Defrost), with the Air Direction to the feet and windshield and Temp Control at 68 degF.
Before I got to work I pressed the Temp Control OFF button.
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Can you drive in EV mode with the A/C or heater running to keep you cool in summer and warm in winter? If so, how much does it change the range from the normal 13-14 miles of EV?
I'm trying to determine how short of a commute I would need to have to not use gas while still driving normally and not giving up climate control use.
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