Prius PHEV Plug-In :: EV Mode Won't Stay On
Jun 13, 2010
Any additional scenarios that can kick EV mode off? (I have read if the traction motor is above 104 degrees, EV mode is kicked off.)
Could too much (Enginer) power being dumped onto the HV buss (with a fully charged NiMH battery) also kick EB mode off?
Yesterday my NiMH battery was fully charged, all bars greed (don't know SOC because ScanGauge was set to AMPs). Three hours after a lengthy drive on a 70 degree day when I did have difficulty entering EV mode, I started the car, successfully engaged EV mode and the Enginer Kit, was backing out, and the engine immediately started. (No beeps indicating EV mode was turned off.)
My guess would be that after 3 hours of sitting in a shaded and cool garage that the traction motor would not be 104 degrees.
Could too many AMPs going into the PRIUS (not Enginer) DC-to-DC converter with a FULL NiMH battery cause the engine to start to somehow cool the Prius Converter? (It does have a cooling system, right?).
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I have noticed that when I put my 01 Prius in "D" after I turn the key but, before the ICE starts, it seems to force it into an "EV" mode (the ICE doesn't start, and I can drive on battery only until its charge is way lower than the system usually lets it get). I also get all the warning lights (Triangle, Check Engine and Hybrid Warning). If I pull over, turn it off and turn it back on, the ICE will start and the car will function normally (all the warning lights will still be on unless I cycle the ignition several times). It has happened to me at least 5x in the past two years (only because I'm so impatient and put the car in "D" too fast not because I'm trying to do it).
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I have a 2009 Prius with an Enginer 4kwh battery pack. I know that the Prius' programming has a number of parameters that control when it will enter EV mode.
The display says "Cannot enter EV mode now" when engaging my Coastal EV mode switch at times when I believe it should be able to enter EV mode. Here are the conditions from a recent trip:
-Stopped at a light
-The ICE not running
-Car fully warmed up (just drove 10 miles)
-AC off
-Outside air temp 62 degrees
-Battery showing green bars with the top bar white
If I enter EV mode when the car is started cold then it works fine. Once I've driven it a while I can't get it to return to EV mode reliably.
The last time I spoke with my local Toyota dealer they said that because the 2009 American Prius was not shipped with an EV mode switch they would not support that mode.
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I have got a plug in supply phev kit, and I live in the uk. As the software on the kit is written for the American market, I'm assuming our speeds are a little different, ie, the phev kit always wants to enter ev mode automatically below or at 30mph, and the kit does do this, but our 30 mph speed must be different to the usa, as the kit tries to enter ev mode when I'm doing speeds of over 30mph even up to 35 mph, the the cars software stops this from happening and the audible alarm sounds, 4 beeps, and words on the led state ev mode not allowed because we are of course going too fast.
This is of course quite annoying sometimes when the kit is constantly trying to get into ev mode and alarms are frequent at speeds between 30 and 35 mph, over this speed the kit stops trying to go into ev mode.
The kit is working really well to be honest, and I am very pleased with the way it works. One thing I would like to do is to try to stop the audible alarm when the ev mode is not allowed, is there a way of disabling the cannot enter ev mode chime / beep alarm with software, I do own a techstream light.
I wish the PIS program and software was open source, I could alter the parameter myself then.
One more slight thing that could be addressed is sometimes, but not very often, when I am driving in mixed or blended mode, the oem hybrid battery gets too full of charge and the engine starts to burn off the Excess charge in the battery, again if the PIS program was open source, I could adjust the point at which the kit battery adds into the oem battery, I would drop that parameter a volt or 2 to stop the oem battery going into excess and burn off process.
I must say though, apart from these 2 slight annoyances, the kit is awesome.
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I am planning to get a Hymotion Plug in Conversion on my '08 Prius soon. Whether or not I should upgrade the suspension? Would upgrading the suspension increase the car's load capacity, compensating for the weight of the new equipment, or just improve handling? Seems like I remember reading that even though the conversion adds about 200 pounds, it is effectively more like adding 300 lbs.
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One of my pet peeves about the Prius Plug-in is that the car won't stay in full electric mode under hard acceleration. Any mods to keep the car in pure electric propulsion?
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I have 4kw eng. kit now planning to add one more to it. (parallel) How I can increase my EV speed to 52.
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I have been using a BMS+ with my 4KWH kit for a few weeks now. I want to know if there are any other users out there using a BMS+ with a Engineer Kit. I have found that the BMS+ to increase ICE assist and improve fuel efficiency in highway mode (greater than 70kph). Since most of my driving in is in highway mode I find this device to be very useful.
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A good thing about Prius PHEV conversions in general is that they mostly don't change the appearance of the car, except for an outlet on the bumper and a switch on the dash.
You can't tell when it's charging and when it's done, without opening the bottom hatch (which may require unloading cargo). The "low battery" indicator can't be seen in daylight.
The charger has a light that turns red when charging and green when charged (or when the battery pack is disconnected). My preference was to move this light to the power connector on the bumper, but this was not practical. Instead, I found that it was very easy to get access to the reverse light in the tail light assembly, without even removing the cover.
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Hymotion battery pack is dead. Won't charge beyond .8 kw max. Doesn't charge enough to offset the cost of the added weight of the pack.
How can I get this "boat anchor" removed.
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Yesterday, I was driving home in EV mode, PHEV on, about 80°F, no hills, not accelerating, SOC about 4 bars, about 1/2 mile out, when it dropped out of EV mode, and then I got the red triangle and the check engine light. Today I grabbed the code with an OBD2 reader, and got this:
Freeze Frame Information:
1. DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored - P0A92.
2. Engine Coolant Temp - 138.20 °F.
3. Engine RPM - 1,888.00 Rpm.
4. Vehicle Speed Sensor - 14.91 Mph.
5. Intake Air Temperature - 96.80 °F.
6. Time Since Engine Start - 101 Sec.
7. # Warm-ups since DTC Cleared - 74.
8. Distance since DTC Cleared - 706.50 Mi.
9. Control Module Voltage - 13.69 V.
10. Ambient Air Temperature - 80.60 °F.
11. Accelerator Pedal Position D - 30.98 %.
12. Accelerator Pedal Position E - 46.67 %.
13. Time since DTC Cleared - 30 Hr32sec.
Does this happen because it's in EV mode? Do I just have to put up with it every so often? (This is the second time it happened.)
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For those of you with more experience with the Hymotion pack than I:
1) What does it mean when the car "chirps?" It seems like I get 3 or 4 chirps on occasion, with each chirp itself being a rapid succession of 3 individual chirps? I assume it is something to do with the Hymotion pack because I never heard them before the pack was installed.
2) Under light acceleration, say 1 mph/sec, when the engine is just barely contributing to acceleration, at around 31mph (+/-) the engine stops putting out power (the arrows from the engine disappear), the car noticeably hesitates when the engine drops out, I get 3 or 4 chirps, then the engine comes back "online" about a second or two later and all is well. Under normal (i.e. faster) rates of acceleration, this does not happen.
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Have been having cascading problems since installing PIS 10kWh system in April. Early system shutdown, failed BMS boards, then triggering of Prius warning lights. The latter required disconnecting the 12v battery to 'reboot' and cancel them per Robb of PIS. But then, when attempting to do an electrical load test using air con & other accessories, we triggered several yellow warning lights that do no go away with a reboot. Have been told that we need to have a dealer read the codes to troubleshoot.
Read more: [URL] ....
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I have noticed that when driving in EV mode when the car switches over to HV mode the Eco icon always lights up! Of course you can select Eco, or Power mode manually, but when it does this automatically, after the EV battery charge is used up, it keeps showing the Eco icon being lite not HV.
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I have the Toyota Prius C and was wondering if it was possible to stay on EV mode when driving over 20MPH? I always put on ECO mode. Sometimes EV shows up, but then it disappears? How does that work?
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I messed up a couple weeks ago and left the car battery running while waiting for someone. I noticed after doing that, that whenever i had the car is standby mode the red triangle would come up and stay there. Today i got into my car and when i tried turning on the car it died and only had a check engine light come on. I read online that it was the battery so i got the car jump started.
We did this with one of those jump starter boxes (not another car) and now the car is running fine. I read that jump starting a prius could cause damage to it and checked the battery levels. When i pushed the power button once the 12v level was at 12.4. When i pressed it twice the level was at 12.1 and when the car is on the level is at 13.9. My 2004 prius is now at 161k miles. Am I fine using the car as it is? or should i change the 12v, or check if the HV is alright?
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In a cold weather also noticed the EV mode doesn't stay on for a long time even with a 90% full battery and fully warmed up. The engine starts to kick in randomly.
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Can you drive in EV mode with the A/C or heater running to keep you cool in summer and warm in winter? If so, how much does it change the range from the normal 13-14 miles of EV?
I'm trying to determine how short of a commute I would need to have to not use gas while still driving normally and not giving up climate control use.
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You can put your car in drive, but also, you can put it in the "B" position. What does that do? How do you best use it? And what does "B" stand for anyway?
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On a long downhill, with EV mode selected, the car goes out of EV mode when one surpasses 65. When slowing down from 70, the car will not go into EV mode until one is down to 62. THen it stays there until one exceeds 65. I wonder if there is any difference in what is happening when one is going downhill at 66 vs 61? Both are using 0 gas. But one counts as an EV mile and the other does not. Here in high Colorado, this sort of thing makes the EV ratio somewhat meaningless.
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Many of us HATE the fact that if the accelerator is unintentionally pressed too hard, putting the Plug-in into the Power range and thus HV mode, it stays in the HV mode wasting gas until the engine heats up.
Some of us at the next light, will power off the car, and then Restart it, to get it out of HV and back to EV.
We've asked for a way to get it out of this "Accidental HV mode". Can the Prime be switched out of "Accidental HV mode"?
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