Prius PHEV Plug-In :: 2009 - Cannot Enter EV Mode Now
Feb 19, 2012
I have a 2009 Prius with an Enginer 4kwh battery pack. I know that the Prius' programming has a number of parameters that control when it will enter EV mode.
The display says "Cannot enter EV mode now" when engaging my Coastal EV mode switch at times when I believe it should be able to enter EV mode. Here are the conditions from a recent trip:
-Stopped at a light
-The ICE not running
-Car fully warmed up (just drove 10 miles)
-AC off
-Outside air temp 62 degrees
-Battery showing green bars with the top bar white
If I enter EV mode when the car is started cold then it works fine. Once I've driven it a while I can't get it to return to EV mode reliably.
The last time I spoke with my local Toyota dealer they said that because the 2009 American Prius was not shipped with an EV mode switch they would not support that mode.
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Any additional scenarios that can kick EV mode off? (I have read if the traction motor is above 104 degrees, EV mode is kicked off.)
Could too much (Enginer) power being dumped onto the HV buss (with a fully charged NiMH battery) also kick EB mode off?
Yesterday my NiMH battery was fully charged, all bars greed (don't know SOC because ScanGauge was set to AMPs). Three hours after a lengthy drive on a 70 degree day when I did have difficulty entering EV mode, I started the car, successfully engaged EV mode and the Enginer Kit, was backing out, and the engine immediately started. (No beeps indicating EV mode was turned off.)
My guess would be that after 3 hours of sitting in a shaded and cool garage that the traction motor would not be 104 degrees.
Could too many AMPs going into the PRIUS (not Enginer) DC-to-DC converter with a FULL NiMH battery cause the engine to start to somehow cool the Prius Converter? (It does have a cooling system, right?).
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I have noticed that when I put my 01 Prius in "D" after I turn the key but, before the ICE starts, it seems to force it into an "EV" mode (the ICE doesn't start, and I can drive on battery only until its charge is way lower than the system usually lets it get). I also get all the warning lights (Triangle, Check Engine and Hybrid Warning). If I pull over, turn it off and turn it back on, the ICE will start and the car will function normally (all the warning lights will still be on unless I cycle the ignition several times). It has happened to me at least 5x in the past two years (only because I'm so impatient and put the car in "D" too fast not because I'm trying to do it).
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I have got a plug in supply phev kit, and I live in the uk. As the software on the kit is written for the American market, I'm assuming our speeds are a little different, ie, the phev kit always wants to enter ev mode automatically below or at 30mph, and the kit does do this, but our 30 mph speed must be different to the usa, as the kit tries to enter ev mode when I'm doing speeds of over 30mph even up to 35 mph, the the cars software stops this from happening and the audible alarm sounds, 4 beeps, and words on the led state ev mode not allowed because we are of course going too fast.
This is of course quite annoying sometimes when the kit is constantly trying to get into ev mode and alarms are frequent at speeds between 30 and 35 mph, over this speed the kit stops trying to go into ev mode.
The kit is working really well to be honest, and I am very pleased with the way it works. One thing I would like to do is to try to stop the audible alarm when the ev mode is not allowed, is there a way of disabling the cannot enter ev mode chime / beep alarm with software, I do own a techstream light.
I wish the PIS program and software was open source, I could alter the parameter myself then.
One more slight thing that could be addressed is sometimes, but not very often, when I am driving in mixed or blended mode, the oem hybrid battery gets too full of charge and the engine starts to burn off the Excess charge in the battery, again if the PIS program was open source, I could adjust the point at which the kit battery adds into the oem battery, I would drop that parameter a volt or 2 to stop the oem battery going into excess and burn off process.
I must say though, apart from these 2 slight annoyances, the kit is awesome.
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I am planning to get a Hymotion Plug in Conversion on my '08 Prius soon. Whether or not I should upgrade the suspension? Would upgrading the suspension increase the car's load capacity, compensating for the weight of the new equipment, or just improve handling? Seems like I remember reading that even though the conversion adds about 200 pounds, it is effectively more like adding 300 lbs.
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Have 1000 miles left on the 150K CA battery on my 2009.
First, I can no longer enter EV mode with the ev mode. It always says cannot change into ev mode right now. In the past, that only occurred during the warm up cycles. Now it always says that regardless except if I try when first powering on before the engine starts. In that case, when it was working, it would switch over and the MFD would change to show the battery. Now nothing and the engine always starts.
Also, the battery charges and discharges much faster than it used to. I can barely get a 1/4 in stealth (feathering the throttle to keep the ICE from kicking on) without it going from 8 bars down to 2.
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I have 4kw eng. kit now planning to add one more to it. (parallel) How I can increase my EV speed to 52.
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I have been using a BMS+ with my 4KWH kit for a few weeks now. I want to know if there are any other users out there using a BMS+ with a Engineer Kit. I have found that the BMS+ to increase ICE assist and improve fuel efficiency in highway mode (greater than 70kph). Since most of my driving in is in highway mode I find this device to be very useful.
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A good thing about Prius PHEV conversions in general is that they mostly don't change the appearance of the car, except for an outlet on the bumper and a switch on the dash.
You can't tell when it's charging and when it's done, without opening the bottom hatch (which may require unloading cargo). The "low battery" indicator can't be seen in daylight.
The charger has a light that turns red when charging and green when charged (or when the battery pack is disconnected). My preference was to move this light to the power connector on the bumper, but this was not practical. Instead, I found that it was very easy to get access to the reverse light in the tail light assembly, without even removing the cover.
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Hymotion battery pack is dead. Won't charge beyond .8 kw max. Doesn't charge enough to offset the cost of the added weight of the pack.
How can I get this "boat anchor" removed.
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Yesterday, I was driving home in EV mode, PHEV on, about 80°F, no hills, not accelerating, SOC about 4 bars, about 1/2 mile out, when it dropped out of EV mode, and then I got the red triangle and the check engine light. Today I grabbed the code with an OBD2 reader, and got this:
Freeze Frame Information:
1. DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored - P0A92.
2. Engine Coolant Temp - 138.20 °F.
3. Engine RPM - 1,888.00 Rpm.
4. Vehicle Speed Sensor - 14.91 Mph.
5. Intake Air Temperature - 96.80 °F.
6. Time Since Engine Start - 101 Sec.
7. # Warm-ups since DTC Cleared - 74.
8. Distance since DTC Cleared - 706.50 Mi.
9. Control Module Voltage - 13.69 V.
10. Ambient Air Temperature - 80.60 °F.
11. Accelerator Pedal Position D - 30.98 %.
12. Accelerator Pedal Position E - 46.67 %.
13. Time since DTC Cleared - 30 Hr32sec.
Does this happen because it's in EV mode? Do I just have to put up with it every so often? (This is the second time it happened.)
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My 2011 Prius does not have an MFD since mine is the standard model. I tried to find a way to monitor the 12V battery by searching the forum but could not find a way to enter maintenance mode without the MFD. How to put my Prius on maintenance mode?
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For those of you with more experience with the Hymotion pack than I:
1) What does it mean when the car "chirps?" It seems like I get 3 or 4 chirps on occasion, with each chirp itself being a rapid succession of 3 individual chirps? I assume it is something to do with the Hymotion pack because I never heard them before the pack was installed.
2) Under light acceleration, say 1 mph/sec, when the engine is just barely contributing to acceleration, at around 31mph (+/-) the engine stops putting out power (the arrows from the engine disappear), the car noticeably hesitates when the engine drops out, I get 3 or 4 chirps, then the engine comes back "online" about a second or two later and all is well. Under normal (i.e. faster) rates of acceleration, this does not happen.
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Have been having cascading problems since installing PIS 10kWh system in April. Early system shutdown, failed BMS boards, then triggering of Prius warning lights. The latter required disconnecting the 12v battery to 'reboot' and cancel them per Robb of PIS. But then, when attempting to do an electrical load test using air con & other accessories, we triggered several yellow warning lights that do no go away with a reboot. Have been told that we need to have a dealer read the codes to troubleshoot.
Read more: [URL] ....
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I have noticed that when driving in EV mode when the car switches over to HV mode the Eco icon always lights up! Of course you can select Eco, or Power mode manually, but when it does this automatically, after the EV battery charge is used up, it keeps showing the Eco icon being lite not HV.
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I purchased a used toyota camry 2006 2.4 LE. They key fob doesn't work since I got it, so I thought maybe the key fob battery is dead or the key fob itself is damaged. I searched for how to program they key fob and found some instructions, but it doesn't work. I can't get the car to enter the programming mode for the key fob(it should lock and unlock automatically as tutorials point out). Where to start tackling this problem?
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I have a 200 GMC Jimmy SLE and I am trying to program the new FOD key for it. I followed the listed instructions here [URL] .... and here [URL] ..... but it will not enter program mode.
So, is there another method to try to get it into program mode? I have looked here and else but the only other instructions has to do with pre 2000 series blazers.
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I have a new keyfob for my wife's 2000 X, and I'm trying to program it. The procedure is simple, right? Get in the truck, put the key in the ignition, lock the doors, unlock the doors, then cycle it to the run position (back of off), 8 times -- staying in "run" the eighth time.
I've done this OVER and OVER after my wife said it wouldn't work for her. The problem is that when you hit run the 8th time, the locks should cycle, indicating that it is ready to program the remote. The problem is the locks never cycle.
I also tried the same procedure without the locking and unlocking step prior to turning the key. And I also tried it by locking and unlocking prior to inserting the key.
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When I bought that '99 F-250 SuperDuty, it only came with one key and one keyfob. So, I had another key made (no chip in key, btw!) and ordered 2 more keyfobs.
I've followed the instructions to the letter. I cannot get the truck to go into 'program mode' to program the new keyfobs.
I've also ordered (and received) new door locks, ignition 'lock', since the key to start the truck doesn't work in the doors. Strange.
Anyway, the original owner said that he had to have the ignition 'lock' replaced and he lost the door keys.
What is the proper way to get this truck into 'program mode' so that I can program all 3 keyfobs?
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Can you drive in EV mode with the A/C or heater running to keep you cool in summer and warm in winter? If so, how much does it change the range from the normal 13-14 miles of EV?
I'm trying to determine how short of a commute I would need to have to not use gas while still driving normally and not giving up climate control use.
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You can put your car in drive, but also, you can put it in the "B" position. What does that do? How do you best use it? And what does "B" stand for anyway?
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