Prius (Gen 4) :: 2008 - Rattling Noise / Fuel Latch Broken
May 26, 2016
So i traded in my POS 2008 Jeep Liberty and decided to go the Toyota way based on family and friends saying its THE BEST maker and Consumer Reports seconding that. I've had it for just over a week and the rattling/buzzing noise from something being loose under the steering wheel is driving me nuts. In addition to the Pin from the fuel filler door wont extract and come back out so the fuel filler door is stuck slightly open. Besides these 2 small issues i love the car, just not the quality control i guess.
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I had to remove/repair my hood latch (cable broke) on my 2008. There is a 2-wire sensor or similar device mounted to the latch. what is its purpose? I broke the wires to it - yet see no evidence that any system ceased to work as a result. I want to make sure it isn't something critical.
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As of recently, my 2008 Prius fuel gauge shows only 1 flashing bar unless the fuel level is more than half-full.
I just got a quote from the dealer; they said it will cost me $ 900 + to replace the whole fuel tank, as fuel gauge is not a replaceable part. Yap, the whole gas tank needs to be replaced for fuel sender!
Well, I find this hard to believe, but i guess it is possible that they have built everything together as one big replaceable unit.
BTW, if this is true then Toyota is not making environmentally friendly vehicles, when we have to throw away perfectly good gas tank and other parts within in order to replace a moving part that is most likely to fail.
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When I replaced the cabin air filter recently, I noticed the little latch loop on the left hand side bottom was broken. I just put it together and it does not rattle.
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First issue started a few weeks ago. When turning left at a speed > 20mph or when turning wheel quickly I get a rattling noise, which is more prominent with the driver window down, so it sounds like it comes from the driver side front wheel, but not quite sure. It is fairly loud as I have had pedestrians look at my car when turning because they can hear the rattle.
Second issue started this morning but has persisted every time since. When the car is cooling down, we get that whirring noise, which I presume is thr coolant pump. That noise also happens now when I enter the car, and it is accompanied by a knocking noise as if somebody is hitting the outside of the car repeatedly. This is quite unnerving as it sounds like something is hitting the bodywork of the car. It stops immediately when the normal whirring stops.
I had the steering and water pump recall done in november last year, could this be related to that? Forgot ti add the car has done 49000miles....
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I recently acquired a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS after my old car was totaled. I love the car but I've already had a problem trying to open the hood. The interior hood release lever does not pop the hood. I took it to Hyundai and they were able to pop it. They told me the bottom of the hood latch was broken! Needless to say I'd like to replace the part myself but I cant figure out how to move the hood latch from in front of the engine.
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So I have a broken seat latch on the right side. I can't get the seat to go down because the handle comes out as a whole. Also when I look deeper, the white plastic piece that appears to be associated with it is also broken. How can I unlatch the seats to fold them down?
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Fixing top dash compartment latch on 2008 Elantra? Looks like the plastic piece that fits into top broke off.
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I have a 2007 Sonata Limited and the Center Armrest Latch (uppper/lower) is broken. I ordered the parts but the seller cancelled the order saying it does not fit my car. Do I have to buy the whole armrest ?
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A very tiny (1cm) spring broke and came out from the small trunk latch. The trunk will no longer close and catch or lock. Where to purchase that small spring and how to put it back? 2002 V6 B5.5 Passat ....
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My '04 Camry console has two compartments. The lower compartment is large and the upper small. The small upper compartment serves as a lid for the lower compartment.
The upper console lid latch has a plastic tooth that latches into a hole in the lower compartment lid (which as I explained about is also the upper compartment itself). Yesterday that plastic tooth broke off so now the upper lid will not latch. Here are pictures of all this. Looks like the latch assembly would be easy to replace.
I called the dealer this morning to get a new latch. They don't sell the latch separately -- you must buy an entire lid. This lid looks more difficult to replace. I called a couple of salvage places and they didn't have any, but when they have them they only sell them as the entire console.
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I have a 1997 Ford Econoline conversion campervan that I don't use very often. I need to open the hood to jump start the battery. Last time I opened the hood I did not notice anything wrong with the hood or the hood release latch inside the cab. Now when I pulled the hood release latch inside the cab, nothing happens to the hood at all (the hood does not open at all). Is there a way I can open the hood or do I need to tow it to my mechanic?
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I found a broken spring hanging in my drivers side door latch.The power lock is now inoperatable, my question is can I buy just the spring or do I have to buy the whole latch-? I'm new here and can't find the answer,also will door need to be disassembled to install the spring.
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2002 sc 430--interior door latch cable is broken at the ball. Is it possible to (purchase and) replace just the cable or is the cable integrated with the locking mechanism, requiring replacement of the whole unit. Also, need to get just cable and/or integrated cable/lock mechanism.
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It appears the spring that keeps pressure on the handle has broken, now the console lid won't stay latched.
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We, just today I went to fill up the 2006 prius and noticed the fuel door hinge broke. The only thing keeping the door on is the plastic fuel cap cable.
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I have been debugging DTC codes 2237/2238 and what sounds like detonation in a failed catalytic converter in my old 2007 Prius (375,000 miles!), I just removed the wipers and cowl yesterday to look at the air/fuel ratio sensor connection, and my connector appears to be melted somewhat, sides of the connector show signs of melting I am guessing that there is a connection problem stemming from this and the root cause of my DTC codes.
Can the four wires each side be removed so I can get the connector out to look at it carefully?
Can the bad connector be removed and the four wires be simply spliced together to get the air/fuel sensor working again? I did note that the colors of the wires going in are NOT the same as the colors of the wires going out.
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I have a 1997 Ford Econoline conversion campervan that I don't use very often. I need to open the hood to jump start the battery. Last time I opened the hood I did not notice anything wrong with the hood or the hood release latch inside the cab. Now when I pulled the hood release latch inside the cab, nothing happens to the hood at all (the hood does not open at all).
Is there a way I can open the hood or do I need to tow it to my mechanic?
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The latch thing that you pull on to pop the hood has broken, any other way to open the hood up?
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Went to open my trunk today with a normal amount of force and this happened. I can push it back into place but every time I try to open it again it does this. It's still attached on the lefthand side.
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I have a 1990 Ranger with a 4.0L that I just changer the intake gasket on. I broke the fuel line at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cant seem to find one anywhere. It is a nylon inside/rubber outside with a cloth mesh and quick connect fitting line. Where to get one? Can I hose clamp it the FPR by cutting off the connector that broke?
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