Prius (Gen 3) :: Replacing Valve Stem Core Of A Tire?
Nov 28, 2012
how easy is it to replace the Valve Stem Core of a tire? I got a hunch one of my Gen 3 Prius' valve stem core pin is slightly depressed and might be leaking air.
Is it expensive and do I need to worry about the TPM or is that a separate component?
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We have a 2007 Passat. The tire pressure sensor broke off at the valve stem. In checking with the dealer, I was told the tire pressure sensor and valve stem are all one unit. My question is if you can use a regular valve stem and attach the sensor to it, or do you have to get the entire unit with the valve stem and sensor together.
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I have a 1984 ranger with the 2.8L and I am doing the valve stem oil seals.
I have instructions from the ranger station. And I have access to mitchell1 and chilton online.
Also I read somewhere about better settings to use for valve lash? The truck has about 80,000 miles on it.
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My 06' Camry has 141k on it and when I start it up in the morning it smokes and I have been told it is the valve stem seals, and since I'm pretty handy with a wrench. I was wondering all the tools and steps there are to replacing them and if you actually have to take the head off or not?
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I was asked these questions tonight, and realized I didn't know the answers. I have "E" load range tyres.
1. Does the Excursion use the metal valve stems like the other super duty's? Are these the press on type? or screw on?
2. What is the Valve Stem size?
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2012 Elantra GLS. Wife comes home and says the TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) light on the dash is lit. I check the tire pressure. None abnormally low but I decide to top them off. Notice that two of the valve stem caps are broken. The tips are broken off so I can see the little red gasket. On opposite sides of the car. No damage to the wheel covers. The valve stems don't stick out past the wheel covers so I wonder how the caps could have gotten broken. Could that be why the TPS system is giving me a warning? If by chance there was a pressure issue does the light reset itself or does the dealer have to do it?
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Friend of mine has a 99 Ford F150 with the 5.4L. He thinks the heater core has gone on it as it blows a mist through the top vents when he turns the heater on. He can also smell antifreeze. Up here in Canada, its, well quite cold, nuff said about that. He has had estimates of anywhre from $800-$1000 to change it whereas the cost of the core is below $100. Is there anywhere that he can get a diagram.... of how to change it, all he knows was that he was told to remove the entire dash to gat at it.. Is that true ?
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I have a friend that wants me to replace his heater core on his 1998 f250 with a triton 5.4. I told him I would and I've done the one in my 1995 f150 5.8. is it the same process or where to find the step by step instructions.
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We are having extremely cold weather. Yesterday my low air pressure icon came on. When I went to check the air pressure, I could not remove any of the caps.
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Plastic coupling between core and hose, is there a specialty to needed to remove from heater core?
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Changing the valve cover gasket on the 4 cylinder 2.4l. I was going to change mine's. Didn't know if there are any special tips like sealant to be used, loosening bolt sequence or tightening sequence, torque values.
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I'm replacing the valve cover gasket on my 94 Honda Accord. I've heard all sorts of crazy opinions on what needs to be done while installing the gasket such as using various sealants or lubricants. Should anything be put on the gasket or should I just drop it in and screw the valve cover back on?
I'm also replacing the spark plugs while I'm at it. Is there anything else I should do while I'm in there?
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2009 Camry 4cyl
I changed my PCV valve over a month ago and still have white smoke coming form exhaust on startup. The smoke goes aways as always, after that the smell is gone and the car runs like normal. The smell of the smoke is not really sweet as if it was coolant leaking, but its not exactly smelling like burnt oil either (I've had cars that burnt oil real bad and it smelled different than this camry).
I've been keeping an eye out on my oil and coolant levels, both seem to be ok. I refilled my coolant tank to full about 2.5 months ago as it was very low and its still almost at full right now. My oil after about 4k miles on the dipstick measures right in the middle of the min and max dots, which it has been for as long as I've owned the car. So these levels are ok I think.
Now, I've read somewhere a while back that after changing the PCV valve or rather after taking the old one off that there still will be some residue to be burnt off. A way to get rid of that is to create a makeshift vacuum by plugging one end of the hose (the one that attaches to PCV valve) and leaving the PCV valve off while running the engine, putting some kind of cloth or similar over where the PCV valve should go to collect all the burnt stuff, thus cleaning the remainder out. Is it possible that this might be the a solution?
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My mk4 sat for a while and upon starting up was misfiring. I checked for pvc leaks and didn't see anything but went ahead and cleaned my maf sensor and decided to pull my coils. Cylinder 1 had oil on the tip and around the spark plug which to me spelled out a bad valve cover gasket. I got all the parts to do the inner and outer gaskets and replace the coil and spark plug, however we got a snowstorm and my luck a rabbit got in and ate the wiring on one of my fuel injector connectors.
So went ahead and put on the new gasket, replaced the coil and plug and bought a new Fuel Injector Connector and spliced in onto the Injector "Pigtail'. I double checked everything was reattached properly and let the gasket sealant dry for 24 hours. I went to start it tonight and after trying to turnover it completely cuts out, wont even start up. I'm extremely frustrated at this point and am thinking the rabbit must have gotten to something else unless I did something wrong in the process of repairing.
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Own a 2000 Camry XLE 6-cyl. Both valve cover gaskets are leaking. Rear one leaks onto the manifold and causes stench. Have been quoted $350. to replace because the job is complicated. Have any of you done this on your own, and if so, would you recommend it or go to a qualified mechanic?
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Truck was running a little rough before valve cover gasket replacement. Replaced gaskets and it ran rougher than before. Found a burned out spark plug coil and replaced coils, plugs, and wire. Runs smoothly now, but there's very, very low power, probably tops out at 35 mph. What gives?
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I have some serious work that needs to be done on my car. The catalytic converter needs replacing, and the valve cover gasket and cam adjuster seals need to be replaced. This work falls under their respective warranties. However, I'm wondering if I should have the water pump and timing belt done at the same time as I have 77000+ miles on my car. Is there anything else that would be good to do at the same time as this work. I would be going back to the VW service center for these repairs. Would it save me any money to do this all together?
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I'm looking at replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 02 f-250, it's a 7.3L.
Looking at them on line there are many different brands. What have you used on your 7.3L, and which has worked the best for you?
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I am having some trouble with my 4R100 overheating.
Truck is a 2001 F250 XLT 7.3L with 244k miles on it. According to previous owner, the transmission was replaced around 185/190k but there was no paperwork to prove it.
I recently had a leak from one of transmission lines coming into the bottom of the radiator (the one on the passenger side). I replaced it and topped off the little bit of fluid that leaked out. Last weekend I installed a temp sensor in the transmission and hooked it up to my pillar gauges. The first few days driving with it, the temp was at/around 180 degrees, 25-30 degree outside air, unloaded on the highway averaging 70-75mph.
Today on the way home, the temp got to 180 after 35-40min of driving then continue climbing. I pulled off the highway after 1.5hrs and the temp was almost at 210 degrees. I let it idle for 5-10min and the temp didn't change. I turned it off and let it sit for 15 min. Upon starting it back up, the temp had dropped to 180. I continued driving and the temp climbed back up to 210 within 35 minutes. (65-75mph, 24 degree outside temp, unloaded). Once off the highway I averaged 35-45mph on the back roads to my house. The temp started to drop back towards 180 degrees.
Before I start throwing money at it, and installing a 6.0 cooler etc. I am thinking there is something else wrong here. I am going to look at new lines and replacing/repairing the bypass valve on the transmission. I am driving 2hrs to work each way and thats when the temp really starts to go up. The fluid doesnt smell burnt, its still nice and red. I am going to try and flush the lines this weekend and see if something is plugged/caught. I ordered an inline filter today and will put that in with a new hose from the transmission to the radiator (old one is rusted).
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Ok I have a p1316 code so I was told to change valve cover gaskets so I did. Now starts for 4 sec and dies, what is going on....
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I have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee. One of the tire valves has a slow leak. I figured I could get a new valve. But, instead, the guy reminds me that the valve has the pressure sensor built in. He could put in a regular stem, but then the light on the instrument panel would never go out and I'm assuming I couldn't get through inspection like that.
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