I just made my first payment last friday and today my check engine light is illuminated. I did have one of those awful cold, knocking starts the other day!
View 16 RepliesSo my 2012 plugin was parked for about 3 days, and when I turned it on, heard loud knocking and the check engine light came and stayed on.
When switching the car on or off, I'll hear two taps/ticks that were not there before. Loud knocking is not there now.
What can the issue be? It was very cold and snowing.
My mothers 2004 Volvo S40 (original body style) has an illuminated check engine light. Dad took it to their local dealer. Unable to get a code from the cars computer and guessing the problem might be with the fuel filler cap seal, the dealer sold them a new fuel filler cap, offering them a refund on the cap should that solution not work. It did not.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Honda Civic Hybrid with 95,000 miles. Today I drove to the top of Trail Ridge Road in Rocky Mountain National Park (this is at about 11,500 feet). At the top I was attempting to parallel park and the trouble began. I slowed and stopped the vehicle and shifted in to reverse. I put my foot on the accelerator to back up and the car started rolling forward. I looked at the gear indicator and the R was lit up but the D was also lit up and the Check Engine Light had illuminated and the car would not move at all. I shut off the vehicle and turned it back on and was able to shift in to Drive and drive away but the Check Engine Light was still on. No other problems with the driving, car sounds and feels the same. I drove off the mountain back in to the Denver area without any problems and was able to parallel park. Check Engine Light is still on - what might be going on. I do need an oil change shortly, but I don't know if that would cause these issues.
View 4 RepliesI own a 2000 Toyota Camry that was given to me by my father. The check engine light illuminated last year so I brought the car in to my mechanic. He said it was the o2 sensor and changed it. That lasted about a month , and the light went on again. This time it had to do with some valves that get stuck open (or closed) but also had to do with the amount of oxygen that goes into the carburetor . I asked my Dad if he had this problem, and he told me that the engine light was illuminated often, that he had brought the car in about 6 times, but nothing was found. Previously I owned a 1998 Camry, and had the same problem; the check engine light illuminates, the diagnosis is the oxygen sensor, that gets changed, the light goes on again, this valve thing gets changed but the light goes on again in a month. I can't get the car inspected with the engine light illuminated. The light always goes back on but nothing else is found wrong with the vehicle. I really know nothing about cars.
View 4 RepliesNaturally, the dealer service close to me and my regular repair shop are both closed today, so my mind is racing. My check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and I have been waiting for my guy to get back for it's full 80+K workup/service. That was to be right away.
This morning on my 5 mile trip to work after my car sitting for a day, the check engine light came on as usual (with no seeming weird behavior) - but as I was going through some S-curves, the EPC light came on and it felt as if the engine was throttling down, not knowing how to shift, something.
I wasn't far from my parking lot so I drove on here, parked nose out and popped the hood. Nothing visible (not that there would be necessarily) but weird exhaust smell.
I just went back out after lunch and it cranked for a good 20+ seconds over three start attempts before it finally did. Tach went all low and jiggly before kicking in and revving steadily at 1K. However, white puffs of smoke began coming out the exhaust - weird smell (e.g., unburnt fuel perhaps...)
I'm only in a mild panic as I'll likely have to have this towed in and I don't have a clue what I'm facing. I get conflicting tales online as to what it might be but I'd love to impose on your brains if you have some insight to share. I've read about coil packs, throttle bodies, and more.
The only mechanical issue I've had with this engine was that I had the intake manifold assembly replaced right after my warranty went out. Had the throttle body cleaned then, too. Nothing since other than regular services according to vw standards.
Coming home from spring break towing the TT, the Check Engine light illuminates. Seems to be sputtering at idle, but otherwise OK, so we continued home.
Scanner lists the P0171 and P0174 codes. Ok, where to begin? based on internet info, started by cleaning the MAF sensor and throttle body. When I pulled apart the intake, noticed that the grommet which feeds the MAF in the air intake had become separated letting air bypass the MAF. Hence the reason for the codes.
If you get these codes, check the grommet for the wires feeding the MAF in the air intake to make sure it hasn't become separated from the intake. No more codes.
I have a new to me 07 MDX with 82k miles. Exactly at 1 mile over the 30day/1200 mile used car warranty the Check Engine Light illuminated along. The NAV screen showed an emissions code P0401. I really don't notice any symptoms in running at all. Anyway a few drives (on/off) and it turns off for four days. It happened again with same code. Again few drives it went off. It seems to happen when driving easy. It gets great MPG in mixed driving on average (20MPG) which is far better than its rating. Should I wait till it stays on steady before I address this?
View 3 RepliesThis afternoon, after driving about 150 miles, I came home and shut off my 2001 Prius. It was sitting for about 20 minutes before I turned it back on to drive off. Almost immediately, the hybrid warning light came on on the MFD, the red exclamation mark light illuminated, as well as the check engine light, and the motor shut off. I popped the hood, and could hear a high pitched squeal coming from near the inverter. I called my dealer to ask the service department what I should do, and they just told me to bring it in and they will take a look at it. I live over an hour away, so I don't want to bring it there if I can avoid it. I then shut it off and let it sit for a few hours.
After reading about the possibility of the auxiliary battery being bad, I went and turned the Prius on, and then shut it off several times to reset the hybrid warning light (I had to do so in order to access the aux battery information through the MFD). It turned on without incident, and shut off fine, and after being reset the hybrid warning light shut off, as well as the red triangle light. Then, I went through the process of pulling up the battery voltage information through the MFD.
With the car off, and the lights and fans off, the battery voltage read about 10.0-10.5 V. With the lights and fan on, the voltage dropped to about 9.5 V. After getting those readings, I drove it down the road a little ways, just going about 20 mph. It seemed to work fine. The check engine light is still illuminated. With the motor running, the voltage reading was 13.2 V, and then when I got back from my test drive and shut it off, the voltage hovered at 10.6 V with the lights and fan on.
I bought a used 2010 GMC Terrain with 28,000 miles on it in April of 2013. Two weeks after I purchased the car I heard a knocking sound and the check engine light came on. Took it to Dealer and they said the car is low on oil. They put in oil. Two weeks later check engine light comes back on. They put it through a test for oil consumption and that they said the car is using an excessive amount of oil. So they had to change out all of the pistons. One month later the check engine light comes back on.
Dealer calls GM and they say to reset computer....... three weeks later check engine light comes back on....... GM now says to dealer it needs a new engine computer. Not an hour after I pick the car up from it lastest stay at the dealer the light comes back on. GM doesn't know what it is. The mechanic at the dealer is awesome he did some research and thinks the problem is the gas. I now need to put in 90 or above so the engine won't knock. Not happy right now I didn't think that I would have to put in a high octane gas when I bought the car. Terrain owners do you have to put in a high octane gas?
Started up our 2010 RX 350 and there was loud knocking. This smoothed out after several seconds. I stopped engine and started it again. This time the knocking was less severe, but now the Check Engine light is on. Engine seems to be running a little rough as well. I have a feeling I have a bad plug or wire maybe.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 lexus gs300 rwd and my check engine light came on the code P0021 and the check VSC light is on as well and a knocking noise i checked my engine level and seems to be fine but thats just because im always adding oil since its burning a quart every 500 miles which is a lot so whats going on here? Also my idle seems to drop when at a light any one know about recalls on these cars?
View 4 RepliesWhat is the procedure to check the codes when the check engine light illuminates. I am looking for the exact procedure. For example in my other cars, you connect the scanner to the OBD2 connector, then you turn the key to ON without starting the car.
View 1 RepliesI have a 20th anni GTI. I was driving down the road about a week ago going about 50 in 5th gear. all of a sudden when i go to give it gas my car starts lagging and the check engine light starts flashing on and off. I used a check engine light tester to figure out the possible problems and found that cylinder 2 misfired.
Spark plugs could have been the problem so i replace them. Nothing changed. so then i thought it could be one of the coils so i switch 1 and 2 aroud to see if there was a misfire on 1 now. still cylinder 2 misfired. I am starting to thnk it may be my catalytic converter. There's a funny spell coming from my exhaust. Like fire crackers or rotten eggs maybe.
I just joined this forum some minutes ago, I own of a 2004 XC90 T6 AWD, delivered to me a couple to days ago, just barely getting to know the car, hear a knocking sound from the front passenger seat when i drive on rough roads, and this morning check engine warning sign remained on while driving out, had to park the car at home.
View 4 RepliesA few days ago our 2010 with 87k became immobile with "Check Hybrid System" illuminated on dash. Dropped it off at the dealer who had it all day. Replaced the "transistor kit" part number 04899-47021 and blamed the failure on the recall. Recall was not completed. Wife felt a jolt while driving home but no warning lights illuminated. Next day she tried to start it and got that message.
Codes pulled were p3004 with info code 800 and p0ad.
Driving down the road today and all of a sudden the car loses power, starts vibrating and the Check VSC and Check Engine lights came on. I pulled off the highway and got the car stopped and engine shut off. I let it sit for about 5 minutes and started it up and all warning lights went off and I was able to drive the car home with no adverse effects. Seems to be running normal now. Searched the archives and saw numerous posts about a loose gas cap, but this was something far more serious.
View 13 RepliesWhat are the common misfire problems with the mk4 R32? My R is acting funny every once in a while it runs perfect then some other times it seems to big and the check engine light starts to blink but doesn't stay on I ran for codes and it said I had a miss fire but after that the code never came up again but it still blinks.
View 7 RepliesMy 3.0 with 216k miles has developed a rough idle and it progressively got better with new parts and cleanings. On startup it revs up to 2k then back down to 600. If I let it idle for about 8 or so minutes my Check Engine Light starts flashing. If I drive about for a little bit it stops and is just fine.
While the light is flashing I get codes P1000, P0305, P0306, and P0316. Which are OBDII Monitor Testing Not Complete, Misfire detected in Cyl 5, Misfire detected in Cyl 6 and Engine Misfire Detected on Startup (First 1000 Revolutions) respectively. Any other time the truck runs like a dream. Gets 20 city and 29.5 highway.
I cleaned my Mass Air Flow, replaced my Idle Air Control, SeaFoamed throttle body and vacuum lines, brand new coil pack, new wires, new plugs, new fuel filter, I've only ever run 91 octane, Chevron with Techron goes in at every oil change and B12 every other and I just ran 3 bottles of Lucas fuel injector cleaner.
I have a 2005 Prius with 84k miles on it, I recently purchased it used w/ 82k miles.
While driving, about 15 miles into my drive the check engine light starts blinking with acceleration (I counted as many as 18 blinks in one time). The traction control light also came on a few times. With acceleration, the car shook. I was close to an advanced auto parts, so I went there hoping they could work. They were unable to have the connector sync with the car.
I ended up calling my girlfriend and asking her to look on this site for problems as I described. She found and read me info such as water leaking into the spark plugs (it did just rain allot yesterday) and bad gas. To my surprise, there was really no clear answer.
I called and got it towed to the Toyota dealer. The dealership just called and said they did a quick scan, and it "appears not to be from bad gas" but more testing will be done tomorrow. Would it be worth it to drive up and try some fuel water remover tonight? I also read on changing the spark plugs isn't too hard?
Currently my parents, who borrowed my phaeton, are stranded with an EPC light, no crank (no attempt to crank) and apparently no other symptoms. They are ~100 miles from a VW dealer.
Phaeton : 2004 V8, ~80K miles, regularly serviced
Car has been stored for a few months and rarely driven (bad gas?). The transmission needs to have software updates/fluid change (has the shuttering issue)