Prius (Gen 3) :: Wheels Don't Spin / Disengages The Drive
Mar 22, 2012
I read about Prius will not spin its wheels? if it loses traction, it somehow disengages the drive or otherwise does not power the wheels until they stop. Once they stop, the wheels can receive power again.
That's sure going to make it hard to do burnouts in the grocery store parking lot.
More importantly, it could make it hard to impossible to get unstuck on sand, gravel, mud or snow. It could also be hard to take off on a slippery incline.
Sure, this isn't an off road vehicle, but off the road ain't far from on the road and road conditions can get pretty rough.
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I know the RX350 isn't a real SUV designed to go off-road, but after the recent blizzard on the East Coast I am really disappointed by the AWD in this car. My driveway is plowed by a truck so it is very clean, but the city plow leaves maybe a small 5 inch high pile that about 1 feet across after it goes by. My RX350 couldn't through that the front wheels just kept spinning. I tried snow mode and even push the 4 Lock which I think does nothing. The back wheel didn't even spin once it seemed like I was driving a FWD car.
Our older RX330 a 2004 model got stuck also, but when we jabbed the gas after a few seconds the car made this weird screeching sound and you could see the back wheels spin as it climbed the driveway no problem albeit slowly. Its a bit disappointing to see an older RX has better AWD then the newer models. I mean the back wheels didn't even spin on my 2010 the front wheels just spun. I tried turn traction control off, 4 lock, and snow mode no luck. Also when going up the 2010 kept sliding sideways on my 04 the steering felt washy, but at least it was sliding off the driveway.
I also had A6 before this and it has never gotten stuck and its a lower car so its not like a drive my car through snow bank. We ended driving the older RX everywhere this weekend as the 2010 is not very assuring when it snows.
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OK, so the front end of the car is on jack stands. The rear is planted on the ground. The car is in park.
Yet, I'm able to spin the front wheels with my hand.
Wouldn't putting it in park lock the wheels via the transmission?
The car is a FWD 2007 Corolla....
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Went to change the front brake pads on my 2010 F150 today which has 80,000 miles on it and is 2wd. Prior to taking the wheels off we noticed that it takes both hands grabbing the wheel and a significant amount of umph to get them to spin. As soon as you let go of the wheel it stops moving.
While changing the pads we didn't see anything that seemed misaligned or incorrect. The pistons compressed with ease on both calipers. However we did have to fight to remove the inside pad on both wheels.
After re-install wheels back on, they are still just as hard to try to spin. Is this normal if not what could be the problem and could this be affecting my MPG which i get 18.0....
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When I go out in the morning to my c430 and start to reverse always on full lock either right or left the wheels seem to slip or slightly spin - it only happens for a second but it's strange and doesn't always happen.
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I own a 2010 Jeep Liberty and this is my first RWD vehicle (when set in the normal 2WD mode of course). I notice that whenever I accelerate from a stop, on even a slightly wet road, the rear wheels spin and I get the traction light on my dashboard. I then need to take my foot of the gas and accelerate ohhhh soooo slowly. I've never had this kind of wheel spin on my previous AWD or FWD vehicles. Is this a known "feature" or RWD vehicles? Or maybe my one year old tires are inadequate? With my Liberty I could try switching to 4WD LOCK mode before attempting the acceleration to see if this works.
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I have a 2003 four wheel drive Kia Sorento. When not in four wheel drive it is rear wheel drive. On two occasions while driving on snow packed roads, I have had the rear loose traction and spin out luckily going into a soft snow bank. I have good tires, was driving about 15 miles per hour on a flat straight road and not applying the brakes. I can't figure out what is happening. So I started to put it in four wheel drive whenever there is snow pack on the roads. Typically I thought four wheel drive was only for "tough" conditions, but I haven't had a spin since using four wheel drive.
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I just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
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My 2006 Prius (156K miles) has recently started bucking and jerking when the ICE engages or disengages. The worst is if the car is stopped (brakes or in park) and the ICE kicks in (for instance if the A/C is running) - it will make the entire car jump. But it also happens in the normal course of driving, most often when the car is coasting for awhile and then I accelerate out of the coast - there is a noticeable jump as the ICE engages.
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I have a 1998 F-150 and when shifting into 4 wheel drive (manual floor mount shifter) the drive shaft from the transfer case turns but the wheels do not engage.
Looking for a diagram of how the axle works?
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I was wondering if the ICE spins (without fuel) when you go over 43mph in the Toyota PHEV Prius while in EV mode?
I think the only way to be able to tell would be with a SGII... I know I cannot feel the ICE start to spin when coasting downhill and crossing the threshold. I just see the RPM on my SG to go ~975...
Look at the AMP readings while in EV mode. Seen more than 120-130amps?
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blower motor was intermittent on my 08 prius, now only works when i spin it. Looking for a pdf or instructions on replacing it myself?
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My car is pulling to one right slightly so I did the alignment. But it didnt eliminate the problem. Ｉ jacked up my car and try to rotate the front wheel. I can hear slight noise of the caliper rubbing the disk and the wheel does not spin freely if I stopped rotating it. However, the noise is subtle so I don't know if it is by design or I have a brake drag.
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I'm driving home doing about 40 mph when I get an "error message" on the instrument cluster. It said something like "Fault something something". I wish I took a picture of it since my old age is now preventing me from remembering what it said. Anyway, the DSG "disengaged". I could rev the engine, but the car isn't moving and I'm eventually slowing down. It's as if someone put the car into neutral. I noticed that the ESC and the "DSG hot" light went on. There may have been other lights as well. I tried turning the ASR on/off and it didn't work.
I tried to put the DSG into manual mode so that I can shift manually and it didn't do anything. I put it into Sport mode and it still didn't do anything. All the time, the engine is running and will rev when I step on the gas. I finally put my hazards on and pulled over. I restart the car and all's well and I was able to drive off and get home without further incident. The temp outside was 10F just for a data point.
Looked in the manual hoping that there would be a list of error messages to jog my memory, but nothing there.
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The AC clutch on my 2000 Town Car has an intermittent engagement, when the AC is on you can see it clicking into position where it will hold ok for a few seconds, and then it disengages, and so on and so on. The AC puts out cool air and I checked the pressure connecting up to the low side port with a gauge yesterday. Plenty of Freon in the system. Right now I am operating on "vent" to keep the car inside cool.
The sales man who sold me the Lincoln thought it was low on refrigeration, but I thought it was the clutch. Could it be a wiring issue, or a faulty switch? Ironically the small Ford wagon with a 4 cylinder engine I almost bought the previous day had the exact same problem, and both of them had around 102,000 miles. So it is something that all Ford products can have.
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It only happens after being at sustained highway speeds for 45+ minutes. When exiting the highway, the transmission torque converter lock disengages with a jolt, usually around 30 MPH. Has happened every time I've done extended highway travel since the car hit 1000 miles. And more importantly, is there a dealer fix?
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Turning on headlights cuts engine. Sometimes won't start at all even with lights off. All dash lights go out as well. I.e. when auxiliary is on only radio works, turning on headlights shuts off radio. Recently got a used alternator. Could not find any issues pertaining to the alternator. New battery as well.
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My new-to-me '07 Elantra has 109k on it & I'm not sure if the clutch is orig or 2nd. It doesn't slip in any gear, but the actual active section of pedal is really only the bottom 3". If the pedal is not on the floor board It isn't fully disengaged. When letting out the clutch it is effectively fully out after only 2-3" off the floor. With that said the 'free play' is only the very top 1/4-1/2" as it should be.
I've never had a clutch that felt as this one does, & I have 15yrs history driving manuals.
My first thoughts are:
1. clutch disc is almost gone & getting ready to start slipping
2. restrictor valve is clogged
3. slave cylinder is weak & not throwing full range anymore
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I love my 2003 Honda CR-V and it works perfectly except for the cruise control. It may work for 5 miles or 200 miles, but at some point while riding along just fine the car bucks, decreases and then increases speed, and then the cruise disengages. Once this happens, it takes a long time for the cruise control to take hold again. This is an intermittent problem and almost impossible for a mechanic to figure out. I'd love to solve this mystery as I plan to keep this car for at least 300,000 miles! I'm only up to 179,000.
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Cruise control engages normally, holds the set speed, but after a few minutes it disengages. It feels that same as when you lightly tap the brake pedal to disconnect the cruise. Bad brake switch or something else?
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My 2004 Camy XLE 4 cyl has developed an intermittent problem. So far this has only happened after the car has sat in the sun at my office for the day and the temp is around 90. When I begin to take off the transmission disengages intermittently and the engine light comes on. After a couple of miles the problem stops, but the engine light stays on. Usually the light goes off the next day.
I have had the car to dealer. First time reset code P0500 and problem returned. Second time, dealer found update for engine control module. "performed to reflash ECM per TSB 0072-04.
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