Prius (Gen 3) :: Turn Off Power Button Results In Complete Power Blackout
May 24, 2016
2010 Prius, ~250k miles, pressing power button to turn off on results in a semi-regular "pulling the plug experience" instead of a graceful shutdown displaying the mileage and time, can happen a couple times in a day.
IGCT relay and both integrated relays replaced in the fusebox, as well as power switch. Takes between 2-90 seconds to recover and turn back on. Lights out and dark during that period. No codes shown in Techstream.
Sometimes is bad enough that the Nav system reloads the DVD and settings. However, bluetooth and all other functions work once it's up and running. HV battery replaced last year, as well as 12V battery.
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My radio was working fine on Friday, but the next time I drove the car, on Sunday, the radio wouldn't turn on. The power button doesn't do anything, pressing the mode button doesn't do anything and the voice command button doesn't do anything.
Everything else works... bluetooth, display, Nav. Just the radio/CD player won't turn on... it just says "Audio Off". Also, when I go into the diag screen, the Audio reports "NCON". I've checked the fuses listed in the Owners Manuel as audio and they all seem fine.
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My 2011 Prius II hasn't had any issue for the 3 years I've had it until two days ago when the car simply wouldn't turn on. The battery would "whirl" when I would press on the brakes but when I pushed to power button nothing would happen and the Ready light would never come on. The power button didn't have any color (orange/green). The batteries were charged and would spark when cables were connected to them.
I tried it again about an hour later and it worked fine. I drove it for a couple minutes and parked it hoping that it was a fluke. Another hour later I tried to start the car and the same problem as earlier happened. I decided to tow it to the nearest Toyota dealership to get it examined/fixed, but after they've had it for 2 days now they cannot get the car to reproduce the same symptoms.
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My dashboard goes out periodically then magically is restored. They say to replace that. I've decided just to trade it in and get a non-Prius. This morning, however, after driving for a short time, I pushed the power button to turn off the vehicle and it only partially shut off. The key wasn't in, so I put it in and tried again. Now it says there's no key in the ignition and still will not turn off nor turn on.
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My daughter drives a 94 Century (120+ K) and it was running great, no issues to speak of. Thursday morning she was advised that her brake lights were stuck on when the car was parked in school lot. This drained the battery. The battery was very old so she got a new one properly size & installed; the car started up and drove fine. Later that evening it started up and drove again with no issues.Next morning; NOTHING; No Start. I checked and when door is opened interior lights come on, insert key and door chime rings. Turn key and there is nothing at all, a total loss of power, lights go out, door stops chiming but nothing. Starter never engages, no noise, no attempts of the engine to turn, remove key and lights return and door chimes!
1994 Buick Century 3.1L SFI OHV 6cyl .....
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I just bought the truck 2 days ago and the power steering is acting up. When I test drove it I noticed the power assist seemed weak but it has gotten way worse over 2 days.
Truck is a 2001 F250 4x4 V10 auto. 60k miles and totally stock except for Harley Edition wheels and stock size tires.
Now at a complete stop the wheel won't turn at all. If I roll it works. Doesn't matter if I rev the engine. It doesn't matter if I'm on or off the brakes. Tires have plenty of air. The pump is quiet and does not make any abnormal noises.
This is terrible because how can you maneuver a trailer if you can't turn the wheels when stopped.
I noticed the fluid was low and not reading on the dipstick. I added a few ounces and that's all it took with no change. I then used a suction pump to empty the reservoir with the truck off. The fluid was very dirty, probably the original fluid given the mileage. I removed about a quart and refilled it with fresh Mercon ATF. I also changed the serpentine belt because I noticed the belt was probably the original and was cracked.
It went away briefly tonight as I was playing with it. I thought I fixed it but I was fooled. What I did was remove the reservoir cap and turn the wheel from lock to lock while rolling forward slowly. Suddenly it was fixed . But 5 minutes later the problem was back.
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While I had my glow plugs out to crank the motor for the HPOP work I have done I checked the compression on all the cylinders. 6 of the cylinders were 275-280, got 250 and 110 on the others. I put oil in both the low cylinders and the 250 went to 260 and 110 went to 150. I pressurized the low cylinder and with the valves closed it was leaking out the exhaust manifold also had a small amount of coolant come out the water pump. Removed the cylinder head and didn't see anything unusual with the cylinder that was reading low in fact the if was the best looking cylinder of the four with nice looking crosshatch on the cylinder wall.
The other three cylinders has some slight brown haze on them which I assume is rust. This motor probably hasn't run in 18 months and the truck was a non-runner when I purchased as a theft recovery, no history on the truck. Taking the one head to a shop for them to check it out. What's the opinions out there with the low compression? Be ok once it runs and rings get coated with oil? The motor is out of the truck so maybe I should tear it down completely hone and put new rings in it.
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Really scary, had my son in the car. Dash read "Check hybrid system". Reading some posts make me think that it may just be the 12V. Had it towed to my house.
60k GEN3 2010 Prius III
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This is my first dual-bat vehicle. 2011 F250 with ~60K. Dual alternators. Bought in August of 2010. One battery(passenger side) was leaking pretty badly in ~2012 and was replaced under warranty along with the harness as it was corroded.
Yesterday, I drove the truck quite a bit on ~20-25 mile trips and left idling during a couple of them while inside Home Depot. No indication of any trouble.
Today, would not remote start, and when I put the key in and turned it to the on position, the dash lit up for about 3 seconds but once it started waking everything up, it all went dead. Start results in a faint click. I got 11.2V from a trusted meter. I've got my 20A charger hooked to one side right now.
Is there any special trick or attachment procedure to charge a dual battery setup? What about jumping off? Does one bad battery cause both to "act" bad? If I can determine which battery is causing the issue, am I safe to replace just that one, or should I get two new batteries?
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Ok, I have a early 99 F550 that had a tired engine when I bought it about four years ago, but I kept using it just dealt with the low power and blow by. But last winter I decided the truck deserved a complete overhaul. New cab, new transmission, overhaul the engine, and everything else that goes with. I tore the engine down to find out it was already a ford reman. Had the heads completely gone through, new pistons, new exhaust manifolds, new turbo, brand new injectors, new 4inch exhaust, new valve cover gaskets uvch harnesses and repair ends for harness side, and a new IDM.
Now with everything back together, the truck starts an idles fine but has absolutely no power driving it takes like a half a mile to get to 45mph. No check engine lights no smoke. I took it to ford they said only stored codes were for ebpv which I deleted out of turbo housing they recommended changing injectors. So i did no difference. They also said my hpop was about 1600 at idle. And said that's enough pressure. I did resistance readings on all wires between idm an valve covers.
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A few days ago I posted a thread about losing power on a steep hill climb with a cold engine. I replaced the hybrid battery and all seemed well. A few days later, the problem occurred again--bummer. (The car has 120K miles and has spent most of its life in a hot and mountainous environment, and I knew the hybrid battery was failing, so that's not a problem.)
The car starts the climb OK, gains a few hundred feet in elevation, still has some charge left in the hybrid battery, then loses power, surges a couple of times, then comes to stop. The engine continues to run at idle and I get no warning or check engine lights. The "ready" light stays on. This time, the second time it happened, I turned off the car, turned it back on again immediately, and all was well. The remainder of the 1000' climb went fine. As did several other similar climbs on the same drive. Since then I've climbed this hill with a cold engine without a problem, so it's intermittent.
I hesitate to pay Toyota for a code scan since the check engine light did not come on. Should I do this anyway? My local auto parts store will scan for free, but I know that their scanner will not read Toyota-specific codes, just industry standards.
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Does the traction control turn off and stay off when you push the button? I read an owners manual and the way it is written makes me wonder. It makes it sound like the traction control reengages when you put the truck in reverse. Even when you had it turned off.
What are the facts? What is the real difference between an F350 SRW at 11,200 or 11,500 GVW and one with the 10,000 GVW. Is it just paperwork or do they change springs?
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I don't mean solid black tail lights. I just want to paint the chrome out of it like we do with the headlights. I still want them to do what their supposed to do. I just did my headlights with the oven bake, tear apart, mask, paint, oven bake method. I'd like to make them match.
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I recently noticed an issue with the Power button. I had just pulled into the garage and closed the garage door. I was talking on my phone so I didn't get out of the car immediatly. The garage door opener's light went off after a few minutes and that is when I noticed it. My headlights were on but the light that iluminates the power button at night was not on. I turned the car off and turned the lights off, but the light that normally illuminates the power button was not working.
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2007 Prius is not starting. The power doors, lamps, and headlights work. 12V battering showing 13v on multimeter. When you press power button with/without key FOB in, power button shows green but car does not engage.
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After I install a after market backup camera, following problem occurred. Current is always on for windows even I didn't press power button.
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2011 Prius with 30,000
At the first start of day when I pressed on brake pedal and got the green light on power button as usual I pressed power button and never got ready condition, trying to figure out what is happening I have had this condition occur almost every morning (outside air temp around 40 degrees F) also when I went to train station to pick up my daughter I shut off for about ten minutes and it happened again.
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After letting the car sit unused for about 4 days I now find my power button LED is orange not green as always. The display showed the main battery down to two purple bars but after a short drive its returned to normal.
The 12 volt battery is at 12.9 volts and everything else seems normal.
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I just bought a used 2007 Prius, and when I turn the car on, the light on the Power button is red, then goes away once "READY" appears?
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The power button didn't work for a while: For about two hours, the power button (and other stuff) on my 2007 Prius didn't work. But, after a couple of hours, the button worked again and I was able to power down my car (this after many, many pushes both soft and hard). I've now turned it on and off a few times and the car seems to be OK and it's behaving as if it's smiling at me and saying, "What?"
My questions: Does this happen a "lot"? Would the car have turned off if I turned off the smart function (as described on page 34 of the manual)? Is this issue as serious as it seems? Should I dump the car?
This is the first time in 138K miles that the below issues have manifested separately or together.
Other issues that happened at the same time (this morning when the car didn't turn off) were that the:
Instrument cluster was completely dark except for the check engine light (the dark instrument cluster was what first tipped me off that something was wrong)
Backup camera didn't turn on when I shifted into reverse gear
Phone didn't automatically go to speed dial when I was in motion
Fifth door unlock didn't work; the four doors locked/unlocked using the lock/unlock button on the door, but the hatchback didn't unlock.
A day or so ago, the check engine light came on and is throwing a "P0420" code (I posted about this separately yesterday).
By the way, I found out that if you hold down the power button for a while, the car goes into a different state of being where the ICE isn't running and the battery shows as completely empty.
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I was playing with the settings on the Display Audio/Setup/Vehicle settings.
I turned the "Key System with Elec. Key" setting to off.
Now I cannot turn the Power on in the car. I can unlock/lock the car using the buttons on the key FOB.
But when I press the Power button with my foot on the brake, all I get is the red "no key" security indicator on the display.
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