Prius (Gen 3) :: Shudder And Vibration Occurs Between 30 To 40 Mph When Throttle Is At Half Way Point
Feb 11, 2013
Picked up a used 10 prius iv with 31k and have put 1200 miles so far. One troubling thing I have noticed is this weird shudder/vibration that occurs between 30-40mph when the throttle is at the half way point (area between the light green and dark green bar) Vibration similar to that of driving over the rumble strip on the highway but not nearly as harsh and the noise would be similar to when you have one rear window open in the car and it creates the pulsating wind noise.
It doesn't do it all the time and mashing the throttle seems to alleviate the problem. It doesn't happen so much when cruising around town but it happens every time I get near the top of the incline in our office park and the car continues to lose speed until such time as I get back on the gas but it continues to do it until I turn into the parking lot. Occasionally it does it when coasting down a hill with the throttle right near the point of crossing from light green to dark green on the screen.
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Well for a couple of months now I've had a really erratic shudder that occurred at different speeds and at different RPMs... I checked motor mounts, wheel balance, CV Joints, flywheel, etc. and when I took it to my mechanic, he discovered a sliced exhaust hanger in the middle of the exhaust system and nothing else.
Well after replacing this rubber hanger this vibration miraculously stopped occurring. I realized now that the movement of the exhaust which was created over certain roads with undulation caused it to flex harmonically and interrupt the workings of my Koni FSDs.
I really began to think the struts were the culprit but in the end realized the frequency from the loose exhaust was too much for the Frequency Sensing Dampers to counteract as the movements and inertia were opposite the motion of the car itself. She's now smooth as silk at highway speeds once again and only a slight vibration from the race strut bushings which were recently upgraded from stock can be felt through the steering wheel.
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The truck is a new to me 99 f250 7.3. The problem occurred before doing the brakes, and after. The front brakes had new pads and calipers(rotors appeared to be in good condition) while the rears got New rotors, calipers, pads. The persisting problem is a really bad brake shudder that seems to be getting worse. It only occurs below about 5-10mph when braking. on this trip back to school there is a hill with a stop sign at the bottom where i should have rolled forward when i let my foot off the brake. This didn't happen.
It almost seemed as if the tires(meaty 35in dick cepek crushers) where rubbing and catching on something. but we checked and it didn't seems as if they were, though they do come somewhat close to the bumper. Im not even sure if its brakes or what it is, a friend of mine said possibly the hubs, but what can i do to pinpoint it? I wanna try loading down the front with something to simulate the drop when braking and see if the tires do indeed hit as when going to a rolling stop with only a little braking it doesn't do it. Any other things to check?
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I have a 2003 Malibu with 29,000 miles on it. I notice my temperature gauge reads a bit over the half way mark when driving around town. I don't notice any type of coolant leak. The gauge almost always reads above the half point, but never gets to the point of overheating. Sometimes it comes close to it but never actually overheats.
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So I just had my entire clutch replaced while another repair was taking place. What I've noticed is the "clutch engagement" has changed. Where as I would have the clutch start to engage/disengage at the 1/2 way point on the pedal travel is now the last 1/4 of the pedal. Is this a "normal reaction to a new clutch that just takes getting used to or is there an adjustment I can fine turn it with? Do I just have to wait for it to "break in"? When I replaced the clutch on my dearly departed 94 ranger, I replaced the bearings & disc only reusing the pressure plate and did not have this issue.
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I have a strange issue and it happens very sporadic. Sometime it occurs at startup, sometimes while driving. Not sure whether it is limp mode, but I have no throttle. It starts fine, idles, but no throttle. Like I said, sometimes it happens while driving and I have to pull over and shut it down and restart. Mods are few, it has an airaid air filter and I had the turbo rebuilt and egr delete both completed in May. FICM was rebuilt by ficmrepair.com a couple years ago. It does seem to happen more often when it is raining or with a heavy dew after sitting for many hours. 128k.
I adjusted the pedals all the way out and back in and it stopped for almost 5 weeks, but it has been pretty dry here in SW Ohio. then it got really foggy one day and rained the next and it has started again. Could it be that the EGR pigtail is getting moisture. It does not throw a CEL and my scan gauge II shows no codes. I did run a dose of hotshot's secret thru the fuel back in may, ran a couple tanks of fuel, then changed the filters with OEM. I have had this truck for almost 3 years, but still a newbie when it comes to diesels.
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I have been chasing a vibration that occurs around 60-70 MPH. Had all the tires re-balanced and checked the rest of the suspension and narrowed it down to the rear driveshaft.
Took the X to the driveshaft shop and he checked all the joints and suggested that I grease the slip joint as it still was original as delivered. Here's what I did.
Removed the rear bolts and dropped the rear of the shaft. Cut off the factory boot clamps. Marked the shaft so it could go back in the EXACT way it came out and removed the rear of the shaft with the boot intact. While the rear of the shaft was out I checked the joints and found them to be perfect.
There was no real grease to speak of left, just the factory ford blue. Filled it and the splines with moly grease and re-installed the shaft and boot. Clamped the boot with nylon ties (per his suggestion). No vibration any longer. Thought I would post this up as a quick tip.
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My 2010 Prius with 140000km has developed a vibration noticeable anywhere from 50-80 km/hr when in slight acceleration (just over 1/2 on the green bars) with the ICE running. Dropping the throttle or hard acceleration makes it disappear completely - which tells me it's driveline related. It feels like its coming from the passenger side, particularly rear, but it's definitely getting worse and I can now feel it in the driver's door panel so it's becoming a major concern.
My first thought (due to the location) was a bad muffler but it's not any louder. I'm starting to worry it may be a transaxle bearing. I can't see it being a cv joint as there's no noises when cornering and everything underneath looked OK at a recent oil change. I love this car (what Prius owner doesn't?) and I sure can't afford to replace it. It's been babied since day one.
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So, for some reason my 2004 has had a vibration ever since I bought it. This vibration occurs when in R or D when the car is not moving (stop light, parking e.g.). As soon as I accelerate the vibration goes away. After I bought the car I took it to the dealer to have them fix it and they replaced the engine mounts which made it a little better but not much. Recently the vibration has gotten significantly worse and I'm not sure why. I had the car into the dealer about a month ago to replace an A/C solenoid. Also, Tucson was hit by some torrential rain and I got caught driving through some water deep enough to nearly stall the engine out.
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I have a 96 ford escort, 1.9. Recently I've noticed I get a pretty good vibration coming from the front end.
The vibration only occurs when I'm accelerating over 50. When I decelerate over 50 the vibration goes away.
What could be causing this?
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I have a strange noise that occurs at both highway and surface street speeds. On surface streets at low speeds 45 mph and under, if I let off accelerator to coast and lightly step on accelerator I get this quick sharp noise.
Everything I have read regarding a similar noise is under load and being described as a turbo fart. Clearly I am not under any load. I'm lost.
Definitely not a low woooo noise. Also not a hard accel and release and definitely no chuckle and or popping. The sound is high pitched and quick, roughly .5 to 1 second at most. The sound is more like a "zzzrrp" or "zzzoop". I can replicate the sound 50% of the time easily at speeds under 45 mph by briefly coasting (no accelerator) and lightly tapping the accelerator and releasing or holding. Occasionally this sound will occur at full stop when I step off of the brake pedal and before I step on the accelerator. This sound can also occasionally be heard at highway speeds under similar accelerator conditions though it may be more frequent and I just don't notice it.
Would this condition throw a code? Just received "Total Ford Scan Tool Package Enhanced Bundle SP03" scanner from autoengenuity. Hoping to put it through its paces tomorrow.
Additional info: 145k miles. Injectors serviced by a reputable diesel shop here in Vegas approximately 1.5 years ago. Unknown oil leak where oil is collecting in the valley on top of the engine beneath the turbo. HPOP seals were replaced roughly 1 year ago at another reputable diesel shop here in Vegas. Still have an oil leak (turbo related?) Oil is under 500 miles old and acceptable level. Fuel filter is due for a change but that does not seem to affect condition. Air filter 1000 miles. Thinking about upgrading to AIS severe duty kit soon.
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Yesterday, I was taking off from a light and noticed that when I got around 10 PSI, the car kind of nosed over and sputtered. So I started to play around and discovered that no matter what gear, this always happened between 7-12 PSI of boost. Normal driving for me is shifting around 3k RPM, about half throttle. Sometimes when I shift, it pops. Not like a normal, chipped car pop but not quite loud enough to be a backfire.
I took my dad out in the car and got to 55 MPH, then held the throttle half way to keep boost around 10 PSI and it would start sputtering/bogging down erratically. Any more then 12, and the car is fine. Any less then 7 and the car is fine. He suggested a Throttle Position Sensor that has a dead spot in it.
Here's some thought from me:
Coils/Misfires - If it were a coil or misfiring, it would be all the time, not just what I described above, correct?
Boost Leak - At WOT, the car gets up and goes while holding steady boost.
Vac Leak - I've been told at idle, the car is supposed to have 19-21 in Hg of vacuum. It's at 20.
If you turn your speakers up, you can actually hear the exhaust gurgling in the video when I hit the spot I am talking about. There are no loud noises, so don't worry about maxing them. I had to.
[URL] ...
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2012 Camry SE 4 cyl, 56K miles ... Happens in all gears, in normal and sport mode “under light acceleration” at 1600-2000 rpm.
Sitting in driver’s seat I hear a drone which sounds similar to the engine lugging we hear briefly at around 1000 RPM. In the 1600-2000 RPM range it is very annoying because this is the cruising range on highways. Sometime when going up a slight incline it can be felt through the accelerator.
When seating in back seat on passenger’s side, it sounds similar to a bad muffler/resonator and is very audible. Spring loaded exhaust couplings in front of muffler and between front pipe and converter are not seized. All rubber hangers are there. Installed “B-quiet” sound absorber in trunk going from spare tire well over top of muffler and up rear quarter panel which did not work. Nothing is touching the exhaust under the car.
When idling the exhaust produces a noticeable putt-putt sound. Toyota rep (not dealer) went for a ride with me and feels it is typical of a car “for this mileage” (same as dealer told me). I stated it did not do it before and was told cars wear in and after a while characteristics change.
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Recently purchased my first Prius, it's the v wagon.
When accelerating from a stopped position in eco mode there's a relatively severe drivetrain shutter/vibration for a a short period of time until I back off the throttle, almost feels like a clutch slipping with added vibration.
It's probably a normal noise produced by this style transmission, just looking to verify if this is true so I can stop worrying about it.
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98 AEB just rebuilt the engine completely, put a K04-15 turbo on it along with a FMIC and a forge diverter/BOV. Everything runs great idles great. when i try to get into it it bucks at 4500+ rpm. when i baby it she runs great smooth sailing. Is this a fuel issue?
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I have a 2001 vw jetta 2.0 and I was accelerating on the interstate the other day and the car just started bogging down and now the car only accelerates slowly at partial throttle any more and it makes a loud intake noise and bogs down also the car idles bad and even at partial throttle the car struggles to get above 3k rpm, I scan for codes and got MAF, O2 sensor before the cat and camshaft position sensor, I replaced the camshaft position sensor and car still runs like crap, what is the problem??
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I have a 1985 Ford F250 with a 351 windstar in it. I just put a new fuel pump and fuel filter on my truck and it starts and drives but back fires really bad. Sparks are hitting just fine and I am almost positive that all vacuum lines are plugged in or plugged off. What it would be? What about the float could it cause that. Its fine at half throttle but backfires anymore than that.
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My 92 Celica 5SFE 2.2L auto sputters at half throttle. But if I release gas pedal, performance normalizes. I already changed spark plugs cables, ignition coil fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned injectors, replaced timing belt, engine starts right up and idles a bit high, around 1300 RPM when cold in Park, then when warm 800 RPM in drive. I don't know if it's an electrical issue or a vacuum related issue, spark plugs get carbon fouled after driving like this. I'm tired of having all the newer cars pass me by and my car "running" on 3 pistons.
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I have a '99 passat 1.8t Tiptronic. 106,000 miles. Recently I've been getting a bad hesitation when accelerating from a stop. At half throttle the car kinda bogs down and hesitates then as the rpms get higher it seems to clear out and accelerate smoother. At the same time the car doesn't have the same sack it used to. I checked he plugs, found them very fouled. Replaced them and the problem got a little better, but definitely still there. There has to be a reason the plugs fouled. There is no CEL so I don't really know what to check first.
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I have a 04' Jetta 1.8T (AWP) my mods are APR Chip (91octane program) Forge 007 DV, APR TIP, NGK spark plugs, catback exhaust. This issue I am having pretty much started when i got it chipped and I've got it reflashed and I've even talked to people at APR and they are saying that it couldn't be a software issue. Anyhow the problem I am having is at partial throttle my car kind of hesitates a little at 5psi and when i let of the gas the car kind of hiccups a little.. but if i really punch it in every gear i hit 21-22psi no problem, the problem happens when I am driving normal and its really annoying.
I have switched several different N75 valves, I am running the stock one now, I've switched different DV's, i have switched my spark plugs and even put at APR turbo inlet pipe and i have checked for boost/vacuum leaks, I have no CEL...all this hasn't resolved my problem.. I don't know what else to do..
I was thinking about switching my MAF to see if it works, but then again if it was my MAF im sure I would have a CEL. I also was thinking about putting my N75 valve backwards even the DV backwards to see if it works?
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I have a 1991 Celica GT. 175K miles. The car recently developed an issue where it jerks back and forth at light throttle, sort of like a newbie trying to learn to drive a stick. It happens at pretty much any speed, but is less pronounced at the higher speeds (45 MPH). In addition, it will not idle at a constant speed and cycles between 1100 rpm and about 300... or kill.
I've taken the throttle body off and IAC valve off and cleaned them both but it didn't change the behavior. If I pinch the line to the MAP sensor, the idle straightens out at about 1100 rpm. Disconnecting the MAP sensor gives good idle, but no performance while driving, so not a solution.
Things I haven't done yet: check continuity on throttle position sensor, checked MAP sensor (how?).
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