Prius (Gen 3) :: Shift To Reverse But Car Went To Drive Instead?
Apr 6, 2013
I shifted to "reverse" but the car went to "drive" instead. I've only had my Prius for 2 weeks. Today was the first time I encountered this problem, and it happened 3x.
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Ok first off I am a used car dealer and have sold 20 plus gen IIs and never had to replace the main Hybrid battery pack... until this one! after i replaced it with a used one every thing seemed to be fine, I drove the car for a while the check engine light went off(the reason we knew the battery pack was bad) and after a few miles of driving the red triangle light went off.. yea! I think im done so we put all the carpet and rear seats back in and i get in it to start it and put it on the lot and it will not go into gear or start. all the dash lights come on and will go into neutral when i push the brake but just will not go into drive or neutral.
Here are some things we already tried:
1. put the original battery back in the car- no change
2. put our jump box to the small battery-no change
3. checked the brake lights they are coming on when i push the brake
4. put the scanner on the obdII- no codes
The car is an 06 with 200k miles in very good shape. Could it be in the shifter and not related to the battery change out?
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Vehicle was repaired after front end collision and I get no codes found on scanner, had some bad connectors which I replaced and codes went away. I don't get ready light and the dash lights do not cycle off (ABS, SRS, Check engine, Etc. Etc.) The car will shift into neutral but not drive or reverse. Has new Aux battery and Hybrid battery is showing two bars. What to check ?
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I have recently been having problems with my 2013 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon). When I press power, all the dashboard lights turn on. And when I try to shift the car into reverse or drive the car stays on neutral. What is going on?
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I was once the proud owner of a 2006 Prius with 106,716 miles on it. Never missed a regularly scheduled service. Now, I am no longer proud, but just another owner of a Prius with a failed transaxle.
Last week, I parked my car on my way to work and, while the car was idling in park, the Triangle of Death (red with exlamation mark within) came up on the dashboard. The car went into limp mode -- it was unable to shift into drive or reverse -- so I had it towed to Darcars in Silver Spring, MD. They thought the original 12v battery was dead, so they replaced it.
P0AA6 -- 526 and 613 codes 600 miles after Transaxle Fluid Replacement...
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I am having difficulty with my Prius, (just started) that it won't shift out of neutral to drive or reverse. I have read several posts, one says replace the shifter knob, but I did read one i thought that said the 12v battery might be the problem with low voltage. The battery is 5 years old.
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I have an '07 Prius Touring with about 95K miles that I have owned for about a month (after my previous '07 was totaled). My wife tried to drive it for the first time today, and the problem is that when my wife tries to start the engine, the dash lights come on and the color display comes on, but the car won't "shift" into Drive or Reverse (it will go into Neutral). A dash warning light also comes on that the owner's manual says means Take to the Toyota Dealer for Service. Then if she gets out of the car and then I get into the drivers seat, everything works fine.
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2009 Touring Dead at 55000... All lights on dash light up and won't shift to reverse or drive only neutral. Towed to dealer and they said it threw several codes and are replacing the tranny.
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Finished my flush, but now it won't shift to reverse unless i shift all the way to drive first. I thought it might be the hard shifting lever(i think something is up with the linkage), so i shifted to neutral, then reverse, but no success. It's still about 1/4-1/2" overfilled, I jsut ran to the hardware store and it's consistently still not shifting to reverse unless I take it all the way to drive first.
Really hoping I didn't break something in the process... I did do the shifting through the gears while it was flushing out the old coolant, could the valve be stuck due to that?
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I have a 99 passat w auto and tip it will only go into drive and reverse, the tip does nothing and it starts in 4th gear from a start. It works in reverse but I can move the shift lever into 1st or any other gear and it does nothing it wont down shift or the tip wont do anything I am at a loss, I heard it could be the TCM or a pressure selonoid in the tranny...
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My 99 Tahoe has started making a weird like clank noise when I shift into drive or reverse. It also has a light shake which was only if I took a sharp turn, but is becoming a little more common.
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I recently bought my grandfather's old F-150, its a 1983 model with the 351w and the 7200VV carb. I replaced the distributor cap & rotor, plugs, wires, and fluids. The truck idles just fine in park/neutral, but when I shift it into reverse or drive, it stalls out. There is a valve of some kind attached to the carburetor, and it opens and closes rapidly as the truck dies (in time with its sputtering) so I think it may be the cause of the problem. I have not been able to find much info on that carburetor, but I think that valve is a fuel temperature system that meters the amount of fuel going to the carb depending on is temp. Can I replace that part without having to replace the whole carburetor?
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I have a 2010 RX and I've recently noticed every time I shift from Drive to Reverse and vice versa there's a squeaking noise coming from the shift stick. What this could be and if there's an easy solution?
I'm not due for service or an oil change for another 5,000 miles so I'm hoping it's not something I need to address immediately. Do you think it would be safe to wait until then?
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When backing up in reverse I come to a stop and shift into drive. About 60% of the time it slams into gear (Drive). It feels as if someone rearended me. It's a 2012 Chrysler Town and Country with 40K miles. 2 dealers worked on it, reprogramed the computer and replaced 2 seloniods and the problem is still there. What is wrong but said thats typical on that 6 speed. What to do next?
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My car is taking a long time shifting from reverse to drive in the morning. Do you know what may be causing it and how to fix it. It's a 1995 automatic ford explorer.
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I have been driving a 2003 Chevrolet cavalier and the automatic shift is stuck and can only shift to neutral and drive since Thursday morning. It wont go up to reverse and parking and down to the other 3 shifts.
This first happened last April but somehow with the right grip or pressure was able to get back to all the other shifts. Since then it happened 2-3 times as I can remember and now could be getting worse.
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I have a 2002 santa fe 2.7. I just had the transmission rebuilt and since then have noticed a clunking sound when I shift into drive or reverse. It seems to be the lower motor mount is making noise from the motor moving the mount. I look at the mount and it appears to look good, but was wondering how I can really tell if a motor mount needs replacing or not.
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I recently bought my '05 Elantra from a small dealership and I'm starting to see a problem with it. If I shift into reverse and then go back into drive, the car doesn't go forward at all. I have to mess with the gear shift a bit to get the car moving. I'm pretty sure it's a bad linkage. The dealership I bought it from said it desperately needed motor mounts when they got it so they replaced 2 of them. I'm sure the problems are related. I can't find any information on replacing it myself though.
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2011, 69,000 miles. My truck is experiencing very hard shifts from park to drive or park to reverse after a cold soak. It goes away once warmed up. I can't find any excessive driveline play and my transmission fluid level appears fine and in good condition.
The last repair done on my truck was around 7,000 miles ago and it was for a transmission fluid leak around the bell housing. They just replaced the seal between the torque converter and transmission.
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For a few months now I have been hearing a tap clunk type noise coming from under the car when I shift the auto trans into drive and reverse. Also sometimes when the car is slowing when driving I hear the tap sound as it shifts into first. I drove in by my local dealer and they listened to it and said Elantra transmissions can get noisy there is nothing wrong. They told me I have plenty of Warranty left so if something happens I will be covered.
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I have a 2005 Prius. 3 weeks ago my dash lit up with warning lights so I took it to the dealer. They ran a diag and came up with
P3000/123
P0A80/C2311
"Vehicle has bad #4 battery block. Neesd HV Battery pack and HV ECU" I had just hit 150,900 miles.
Given the cost I decided to fix it myself. After tracking down some cells and getting a HV ECU from a local junk yard I pulled out the hv battery broke it down, tested the two cells in the #4 block and replaced the low voltage cell. I then replaced the HV ECU. I put everything back together and everything started up fine and ran great.
Things work well for 2 weeks then yesterday as I'm pulling into my driveway the main error indicator (the big red triangle containing a !) lit up. Needless to say I was disappointing. I turned the car off and then turned it back on. At this point most all of the error indicators were lit (see attached image). I get a new error indicator on the multi-information display (the red car with the ! in it, according to the manual I'l supposed to take it the the dealer immediately) The car started but the engine does not start. The car will not go into drive or reverse, just neutral.
I thought I may not be pressing the brake correctly so I spent some time making sure I was depressing the brake pedal fully when starting up. No change. I checked that the break lights are working when I press the pedal and they are working correctly. I checked the brake fluid reservoir and it is filled to the correct levels.
A friend bought a innova OBD2 scan tool (his kid's cars break a lot) I borrowed it and hooked it up to my car. No error codes detected was what it told me. I was a bit perplexed. I switched to the Toyota enhanced DTC and then Readiness DTC and finally found some codes:
P0300
P0171
P0172
P000A
I found what looks to be the 2004 service manual online in an open directory : [URL] ...... While I don't find P000A I do see the other 3.
P0300 (05–157)
Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
Open or short in engine wire harness
Connector connection
Vacuum hose connection
Ignition system
Injector
Fuel pressure
Mass air flow meter
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Compression pressure
Valve clearance
Valve timing
PCV hose connection
PCV hose
ECM
P0171 (05–143)
System Too Lean (Bank 1)
Air induction system
Injector has blockage
Mass air flow meter
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Fuel pressure
Gas leakage in exhaust system
Open or short in A/F sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) circuit
A/F sensor (bank 1 sensor 1)
A/F sensor heater (bank 1 sensor 1)
EFI M relay (integration relay)
PCV valve and hose
PCV hose connection
ECM
P0172 (05–143)
System Too Rich (Bank 1)
Injector has leakage or blockage
Mass air flow meter
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Ignition system
Fuel pressure
Gas leakage in exhaust system
Open or short in A/F sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) circuit
A/F sensor (bank 1 sensor 1)
A/F sensor heater (bank 1 sensor 1)
EFI M relay (integration relay)
ECM
I was hoping for something a bit less vague. So that's where I am right now. I have the indicator lights as seen in the attached image. The car powers up but the engine does not start. The car will not go into drive or reverse. I don't know the difference between the standard DTC and the readiness DTC.
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