The SKS key system is pretty cool -- you can never lock your keys in the car because so long as the keys are in the car, you can open the door. I like that. But what's to stop an intruder coming in at say a stoplight? Can you lock them out? I'm probably missing something obvious here.
View 14 RepliesToday, I was parking the '05 Prius and noticed the gear shift stuck in the drive position instead of the usual "pop back" you experience when you put it in drive. The park button woud not engage. The same thing happens in reverse.
The dealer said they have had to replace the gear shift on a bunch of cars with this sticky gear shift problem.
Its a good runner. It has lots of get-up-N-go until you get to 45-mph. Then it just loses interest.
It's a 1983 Ford F-150 King Cab Short Box with a 302? V8, a 5 speed manual transmission, 2 wheel drive & a heavy towing package complete with low speed rear end, over-load springs & a 800 tongue Weight rear bumper. It has about 116,000 miles (long haul miles) on it.
The previous owner said it had had this problem before, and new spark plugs fixed it. I don't know, but it seems more like a fuel or vacuum problem. It behaves just like one of those rental truck governors. Plenty of power up to a preset RPM, then blah.
A mechanic I know said it may be a RPM limit switch in the transmission that prevents over revving the engine. Is he talking straight?
I am having a very frustrating problem with my 2010 Honda Civic. I have had the anti-theft immobilizer unit activate on me 3 different times now, preventing me from starting the car. The electronics in the dash and the indoor lights turn on like normal, the engine will turn over fully as it tries to start (it will even start for a second before the immobilizer turns the ignition off if I put the key in and turn it fast enough). The first time it happened I did not realize it was the immobilizer and attempted to jump it, to no avail.
Had to go to the dealership to get a dummy key with no fob attached to it (there is a chip in the fob that communicates that the immobilizer unit recognizes (or doesn't recognize in this case) and a brake code to enter to get the thing started and back to the dealership. I left it there for them to service, only to have them call me a few hours later and say it started up just fine. The keys weren't the problem, the battery wasn't the problem, they couldn't tell me anything was wrong with it. They didn't charge me for it.
About a year passes and happens to me again last week, stranded in between Austin and San Antonio at a gas station. Tow home, get brake code from dealer, drop off at dealer for service, dealer calls back hours later and can't find anything wrong. Says they scanned the immobilizer unit but came up with nothing. Now it has happened again this morning, this time I got it towed straight there so they can see that the immobilizer has it locked down and maybe they can see something that wasn't apparent last time. I will find out tomorrow what they find.
Faulty Honda immobilizer unit?The battery in the key fobs shouldn't be the issue, as they unlock the car and function properly when the immobilizer unit hasn't thrown a fit. The battery may be the culprit, as I had to get a jump for leaving my hazards on for an afternoon, but I am doubting that since there is no dimming or other noticeable differences with the dash. The tech liaison theorized it might be an A/C relay but I don't have too much faith in his theories since they didn't get it right the first two times.
Seems to be happening more and more frequently...I start the car and all lights come on except Ready aka the hybrid system... It takes many tries, and what the problem is?!
View 11 RepliesAt the service department now... My little C started making this strange noise coming out of the proximity warning system... It sounds like a robot whistling (I don't know how else to describe it) when I'm moving in low speeds. There's also a small grinding noise like something is caught and rubbing up against something. I hope it's nothing major, but I sure am anxious waiting for them to diagnose the problem!
View 14 RepliesAfter hearing some loud noise coming from my exhaust system, it was determined that there is a hole (from rust) in part of the cat. assembly. Three shops advised for replacement, there are no aftermarket products for this unit. I have NOT gotten any error codes, the only problem is the noise. What to do? The car is 10 years old with 86000 miles. I have been reading about some of you getting just the one piece and having it welded on, but I do not believe any of the shops here will do that, and indicated that it would be a very temporary fix.
View 17 RepliesAfter replacing at a Toyota dealer in my country the JBL 6CD audio system under warranty (was not responding on the commands from front panel, the unit was faulty), I've found some error codes left in System Check Mode and I don't know what is their meaning. What those codes show, especially 380H error code? Here is how to look ...
View 4 RepliesTwo weeks ago a large, industrial truck dropped a piece of bent steel pipe on the interstate in front of my 2010, 50k miles, Prius and (sadly) I was forced to hit or swerve into rush hour traffic and cause an accident. It tore up a good part of the cooling system and did some body damage. Of course I didn't know this at the time, but it began to overheat, so I pulled off the freeway and had it towed to a body shop. After about ten days, I got my Prius back.
View 13 RepliesWhen coming to a stop my abs system will activate at about 5 mph. I replaced the Lt front speed sensor because of a dash light and now I have this other problem with the activation at 5 mph. I did find a service bulletin about the speed sensor that states to make sure the sensor surface is clean and that the sensor seated properly. I have cleaned the surface more then once but it is still doing the activation thing.
View 4 RepliesI just bought a used 2012 Toyota Prius iTech from a country town 3 hours away. About an hour into the drive home, the display informed me to "Check Hybrid System" and then "Check PCS System". The car continued to function for a little while, then eventually lost acceleration, so I pulled over. I turned it off and on again; the warning light remained but the car started and continued to work, but soon after I lost acceleration again. This happened one more time.
Then I Googled the problem and discovered that you could "turn it off and on again three times to reset the computer". I did this and the problem disappeared and did not resurface for the remainder of the trip, and has not happened again since.
I've been having this issue randomly with my car. Usually after I turned off the car with Climate system on it will come back on with car starting, but sometime it would not.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Chevy Malibu LS. Occasionally, my theft system light will come on when I start my car. I usually have to wait 10 minutes until it deactivates. I don't understand why it does this!
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I recently had some work done on my 2001 1.8t Passat. All new vacuum hoses & camshaft tensioner replaced by VW dealer. Check engine light is coming on and an independent shop near read out a code: Bank 1 mixture adaptation(multi): System too lean.
What does this mean??? And could this relate to these parts being replaced??? Work was done approx 2000 miles ago.
I cannot get any sound from my DNS! Everything was working fine a few days ago when I turned off the audio system by tapping the Power/Volume knob. I tapped it today and screen comes up as it normally would but no sound. The volume is turned up to max. No sound in FM, Xm and no navigation instructions in the Navigation mode. It is as if I hit the "mute" but if I did I don't know where the mute button is located.
View 5 RepliesFinally pulled the trigger and traded our 2008 santa fe SE to 2.0T with leather pkg, haven't had time to do proper intro and didn't want this to be my first post... We have less than 1000 miles and engine is ticking quite badly, not always and doesn't go away when engine warms up. Will take it to dealer next week so that they can diagnose it more in detail. And no, it's not GDI system, noise is clearly coming from valve or vct system.
I know it's covered by warranty, but this stinks big time and frustrates like... Not a good start.
New Interstate battery, new alternator (x2, 1st was Napa (DOA), 2nd Motor Craft) and 1 new Napa idler wheel. The battery test at 12.5 and when the truck idles it shoot to 15.14. It holds a charge fine, but the check charging system keeps popping up which concerns me, not only because its annoying. Also why such a spike when started...?
View 1 Replies2008 ISF. Has made whining sound (like a supercharger) off and on since '11 and 30k miles. Clearly coming from accessory belt system.
Having read this forum I assumed it was the tensioner, and finally replaced it last week @ 52k. Spun all pulleys by hand and all felt/sounded fine. Actually the old tensioner seemed fine too, even the belt- no cracks or wear, so I didn't replace belt at first, just tensioner.
Well new tensioner reduced the sound just a little, but still there at times, so I replaced the belt with a goodyear gatorback and that made the whine worse than ever. So I put the old belt back on, and am currently still dealing with some whine,
I don't have another ISF to compare to, but it can't be normal. It's not loud in cabin, my friends don't think anything of it, but I hear it and it's embarrassing.
Since I cant hear or feel an issue with any of the pulleys, is there a logical order in which I should start replacing them? I'm at a loss as for what to do next. I can't pinpoint where noise originates since it only occurs under load while I'm driving, but it's certainly from the accessory belt system.
2014 TDI Passat with 66k miles. No unusual problems until this point. Three days ago I began to notice a strong ammonia odor coming through the ac vents. Its become significantly worse over the last 24 hours. The vaporized ammonia is sufficiently concentrated to cause eye and nasal irritation. It occurs rapidly, within 30 seconds of turning on the recirc mode. Turning off the recirc mode can clear the cabin quite fast as well. There is no odor or leak perceptible in the engine compartment, under the car, or in the trunk space.
No check engine warning or alarm that there is a problem with the DEF system. DEF fluid container was last topped off about 5k miles ago. Clearly, this is a significant failure of the emission system. I've done a cursory search but have not seen this exact problem written up before. Wondering why a car would be designed with the HVAC close to the to the exhaust/emissions system that it could capture gasses intended for the exhaust system? Its not so much the ammonia I/m worried about as the odorless and toxic Nox gasses the emission system should be reducing. getting dropped off at the dealer tomorrow.
I've successfully managed to ignore the clicking noise coming from the vent system long enough that it eventually went away but I now have no air coming out from the footwell area on both the driver and passenger side. I am guessing that the diverter flap mechanism has either simply broken or is mechanically frozen in a certain position.
The air flow to the dash and defrost vents is fine. If I manually set the system to have all air come from the lower vents, there is a loud wind noise as the air is trying to force its way around a closed flap. Is this an easy fix or another expensive and problematic trip to the dealer?
I have a 2013 XLT with a sirius enabled radio. my display works (time,date, shows bluetooth connected) but no sound is coming out of the system. What this could be? i tried replacing the cd player/motherboard but that did nothing... could it be a fuse?
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