Prius (Gen 3) :: SKS And Wireless Key Malfunction?
Nov 19, 2013
When I put my hand on the driver's door handle to open the door, a series of 10 beeps with the flashing exterior lights occurs. Door won't open. Must use metal key in fob. On exit, touch handle on outside (above/below pinch) results in nothing, or a stuttered double clicking sound. Door not locked and metal key from fob used to lock door. SKS works sometimes, but I never know if or when I'm going to need the metal key. Battery fresh.When wireless button to unlock/lock is used, it sometimes works, sometimes does not.Door no longer automatically locks after period of time. I can forget to lock and come back hours later and still unlocked.
I've tried the spare fob. Same result. I've left cell phone in house. Same problems. I've tried turning away from the door so the fob is not as close. Same problems. Cleaned door handle. No change.
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Several times my 6 month old Prius v Three refuses to start. I've taken it to the dealer 5 times now for an array of electrical issues. I was told the keyfob wireless signal isn't reaching the Power pushbutton on the dashboard & to not ever put the keyfob near my cell phone & to put the keyfob as close to the Power pushbutton as possible.
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I've been wanting to get a wireless Qi charger for my Samsung Galaxy S5 and have thought of a few options:
1. Have somebody custom wire a Micro USB into my glove box.
2. Put it into my center console (no custom install needed).
What about the phone moving around when the car is in motion? Other pros and cons?
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Is it possible to add the wireless phone option to a non equipped Avalon.
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Sometimes when the wife and I go out to dinner she wants to leave her purse in the back with the cover pulled. She keeps her set of keys in her purse so with the wireless keys I can't lock the car because the car knows there is a key inside.
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It happened almost a week ago and had plenty of time to dry out. I heard that the keys will usually come back to life but unfortunately mine did not. Tried changing the battery too. No luck. The key still works in the door. It's an annoyance not being able to open the trunk or lock/open all doors remotely.
Are there any alternative ways to do this cheaper that I'm overlooking? There are wireless keys on ebay that can be bought. But is there a way to get them programmed other than going to the VW dealer and getting fleeced?
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My Airlift wireless will not inflate my airbags-compressor does not run. It was working - only used it once since it was installed 2 months ago. Tried it this week- no joy. I get the error BL OC,(bloc) then sometimes FA IL. I called Airlift Friday and the tech said it sound like compressor might be bad so I should get 12 volts to the compressor and see if it runs. I did that and compressor runs fine. I also checked to be sure I have 12 volts going into the wire loom and I do.
When I try to inflate the using wireless controller, the manifold clicks but there is no voltage going to the compressor. Sounds like there is a breakdown within or between the receiver and/or manifold. I do see the wireless controller sending a signal but nothing happens except on click in the manifold. I guess I will have to wait until Monday to call again. It frustrating since it's Saturday when I am able to work on it but can't get tech support.
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I pulled my 2005 Prius out of the garage today and parked it on the driveway. When I went back later that day to pull it back under the garage, nothing would work and the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" came on. I was thinking my battery in my key had gone bad and replaced it. When I tried to start the car for the second time the engine would not turnover, the clock light looked dim, the locks would not work and my headlights would not come on.
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We purchased a used 2012 a couple of months ago and have had no issues with it. A few weeks ago it was in an accident and mostly sat at the body shop for the next two weeks. Got it back a week ago and seemed to work fine for commuting for the next week. Then let it sit for two days and then the next day drove it for a few short trips over a couple of hours. Everything seemed fine. Next morning it won't start. "P lock malfunction when parking, park in flat place and apply parking brake securely. Shift to P position and push power switch to turn off". Cannot shift into D; can shift into N; pushing P button doesn't illuminate the LED on the button or move it out of N.
Searching this error indicates often caused by failing 12V battery, and I can see that might be the problem given the age and the abuse the battery has taken the last few weeks. The battery reads 11.84V when car is off and 11.45V when "on" showing the error. I can replace the 12V battery. Is there some other simple diagnostic I can do?
Alternate explanations are, something got buggered in the accident that didn't surface until now or the groundhog we shooed out from under the car right before it wouldn't start was chewing on something.
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At a stoplight earlier today, my ICE was running though I thought it should have shut down. I checked the engine monitor display on the dash, and it didn't indicate that the ICE was on, even though it very obviously was. The same thing happened a bit later. My worries are: 1) there was clearly an error in what the dash display was showing, since the engine was on and it indicated that it wasn't, and 2) maybe the engine really should have shut down, but for some reason it didn't .
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My 2004 Prius won't start for the first time in its 45,000 miles. First try only the malfunction indicator lamp went on. After a pause and a few tries later, the fuel gauge and gear indicator cluster flashed on and off while I was attempting to start (fuel indicator racing across its grid and gear indicators outlined with "dotted" lines -- tank is 1/2 full BTW).
Later tries got no response except the malfunction lamp. I tried both keys in the ignition, also checked door lock functions, and found the keys will still lock the doors, but the click is noticeably weak and the unlock function doesn't work.
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I have a 2008 Prius with about 34,000 miles. While I was driving yesterday the malfunction indicator lamp came on. I returned home (was 20 miles away), but did not notice anything wrong while driving. Thanks to Priuschat, I found discussions that said to check if the gas cap was on correctly; sure enough, mine was not on tightly. I've just put the cap back on, but when I started the car, the malfunction indicator still came on. Will the warning light clear on it's own (if the problem was the gas cap).
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I just bought a new Prius V 5 for the wife yesterday and I have a few questions on the whole lighting system.I set here lights today to AUTO with the Fog/Driving Lights to the ON position. We the car was started and she drove off, the Day Time running lights were not on. Will the DRL not work with the FOG lights on? Am I missing something?
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My A/c has been on the fritz for a while, and I've just been dealing with sweating in the Florida summer until I had the money to get it fixed. Now this morning I start my car after getting gas, and it throws the dreaded POA80. My fiance's 2004 HV pack just went bad about a month ago, but her's has 236k miles on it. My 2005 is only at 98k. I haven't heard my HV fan kick on in the back seat at all, but it does seem to be having a hard time charging. Is there anyway the dealer is going to try to say that me not getting my A/C fixed is the cause of my faulty HV battery? Is there any way that that is the cause of the pack going bad??
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I have a Gen III Prius with 13,000 miles. It is less than a year old and I just got the Hybrid Malfunction indicator...I'm a bit upset about this and am wondering what it means. I'm not going to be able to take it into the dealership until next week, and was hoping to get some information about the indicator. It's a blurry shot but it is an exclamation mark with wavy lines below it.
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This morning, I tried to start the 2003 Prius and got a 'check engine' light and nothing. The cabin lights were bright so the 12V looked OK. After three tries, I used the VOM and measured 12.55 V on the battery. But the traction battery level looked unusually low.
So I tried again and it started. Using the ScanGauge, no codes were displayed. So I turned the car off and on three times and cleared the "check engine" light. Then I connected the Auto Ingenuity and read out:
P1636 - HV ECU Malfunction on the HV ECU to ECM bus.
C1213 - HV ECU Communication Circuit Malfunction between HV ECU and Brake ECU
P3002 - HV ECU Communication Malfunction on the HV ECU to Battery ECU
So it looks like there was an HV ECU problem that 'cleared while testing.' Certainly it makes sense to inspect the HV ECU connectors and re-seat them and clean out any debris.
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Problem and background: for PRIUS 2004 Gen 2 , 157000 km, not getting READY to drive.
1.Warning signals on Power ON, red triangle, yellow color engine, brake, ABS, skidding. Also the PARKING BRAKE RED signal (by the side of seat belt warning signal), does not disappear even if I release the foot brake.
2. Gear can move to N and parking P only, can't move to Drive D or Reverse R. No READY symbol,
3. I left the car in that location in open for a month, during heavy rain. But after coming back , the car had no issue and I was driving for 4 days before this issue started.
what I have tried:
1.Have removed the 12 Volt battery terminals and connected back, just to see if the errors disappear. No change. But did not check the battery voltage or suspect it . disconnected and connected the HV service plug.(orange color lever behind rear passenger seat).
2. Have been switching ON and off the car for 1 full day, First day the local Toyota service (non-prius), came to connect to OBD late evening, he switched on the interior lights and left doors open, within 10-15 minutes the lights started dimming. Before he could pull the information, all shutdown and 12V battery down. his measurement at battery without removing any terminal showed 3.6V.
3. The second day took the battery out and charged at local battery service guy for 6 hrs, he say's charged at 3A, the indicator showed green, that means fully charged, his measurement with no load 12V. After connecting to the car myself, checked the voltage at display by putting to diagnostic mode, showed 12 volts (only with display on) with headlight on and pressing brake drops to 11.6volt. IS THAT OK?
4. The third day got the new battery and replaced, showed the same voltage 12/11.6v, but I can't be 100% sure if that is a brand new battery, the box was open, and since the car didn't start, the battery sales person has taken back the new battery in the same box. I connected back the old battery, it was holding the same voltage. SHOULD I still SUSPECT BATTERY?
5. I can make the READY indication blink twice, if I press hard the brake pedal and hold the POWER button few seconds, during this time I can hear CLICKING NOISE behind at HV BATTERY SERVICE PLUG grip? does that say something?
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I just had a Safesight micro flush mount camera installed in my Prius 2010 (purchased from Mobile Electronics). I had it installed with a manual switch so that it is either on or off according to my whim. Unfortunately, at this point, the camera seems to add to - rather than subtract from - backing up risks due to spatial distortion and pinpoint representations of objects directly in back of my car.
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Customer's car died about 2 hours from me. What this could be? It is at a shop now, and I walked them through how to test the main fusable link in the engine bay, and they said it was good. They also checked the 12v battery and that tested good. Here is what happened.
The customer was driving, then he said the triangle of the death and check engine light came on. Then, he kept driving for a little while and then all the sudden everything went dark and he coasted to the shoulder. The car hasn't had the inverter coolant pump recall done, so I am leaning towards that. The car's dome lights come on, the key can unlock and lock the car, but if you slide the key in and press the power button, nothing happens. What on earth would cause that?
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I let the Prius sit for 3 days over the long weekend, and on Monday it would not start. Got a big red triangle exclamation mark on the dash. Figured it was the 12V battery going, so I replaced it with the Optima Yellowtop. Took it all apart, put it back together. Charged the yellowtop using a Schumacher automatic battery charger made for AGM batteries. Run fine around the block, so I figured it was good.
My wife took the car to work this morning. Said the ride in was just fine. Locked it and went into work. When she came out at break, it wouldn't open. Completely dead. I walked her through using the metal key to open the door, and she says it is all dark, nothing happens when she pushes the start button. We have the SKS, of course.
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Error messages on my dash were originally the triangle exclamation and - p lock malfunction when parking , park in a flat place and apply parking brake securely ....
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