After being stonewalled and hassled by Toyota, the corporate office finally authorized a dealer to change the backup beeper to the one-beep mode. But now, when I carry furniture or lumber, etc and tie down the rear hatch with a rope, the beeper beeps constantly as long as the vehicle is moving.
View 19 RepliesHearing a slight clunk noise inside the back of thier gen 2? I've taken apart all the paneling used foam tape to secure things and took apart the spare tire area etc and the clunk persists. It seems to vary intensity every time I close the rear hatch.
View 4 RepliesHDo Viper keyless remotes act like my 2012 Toyota Prius proximity key remote? The functionality where I can 'press to start' the car when the proximity key is inside the vehicle?
will I still be required to carry my Prius's proximity key at the same time as the Viper remote (Viper 4608v)?
I am looking to reduce the weight on my rear suspension. I have H&R springs and I rub on bumps. Fenders need to be rolled but the inside of the tire is being rubbed on the strut housing. My subwoofer box doesnt work for my situation either, saw a thread already about this but he was recommended coils. I rather not go that route. Ive already removed the rear seats(foldable part, bench is still there) ...
View 1 RepliesThis is a simple post: Rear hatch won't open from outside; latch seems to be toasted. It can be released from inside, and will open then, as you imagine this is very inconvenient.
View 6 RepliesThe problem: dead battery, hatch is locked (although 4 doors unlocked), little plastic cover at base of hatch removed, reached inside, but try as I may I am unable to unlatch hatch. How/what to do to manipulate mechanism. Also looking for instructions on how to jump-start engine from engine compartment.
Notes: My owners manual resides with spare tire for safe keeping and is therefore unavailable. Perhaps too safe! What was Toyota thinking to leave doors unlocked when battery dies, but to lock (default mode?) the rear hatch and deny easy access to the battery? I believe it was unlocked when I parked the car.
Actually its inconsistent. Many times with the car running and in park, I jump out to access the rear hatch. Sometimes it will open and sometimes it will not. When it doesn't open, I have to turn off the car and then the hatch opens.
View 5 RepliesI tried to open my rear hatch yesterday, and it was a bit sticky. I think the plastic was just weak (cold & uv exposure?)
View 7 RepliesAny good video out there to tell me how to replace the rear hatch lifters on my 2007 Prius?i
View 2 RepliesRear hatch will not close securely. It is "loose" and balks at being fully latched.
View 3 RepliesProblem: I left a dome light while in the airport parking lot when I went on week long trip. When I returned the 12V battery was dead.
Question: How do you get to the 12v battery in the rear of the car? Rear hatch will not open without power.Using the key to get in the drivers door, I had to get someone to crawl over the back seat and connect cables to jump start the car.
What am I missing? Is there a better way to jump start the car? Is there another way to open the rear hatch without the 12v battery power?
I need to find a way to limit the rear hatch opening ... or find a taller wife.
View 18 RepliesI'm getting a rattle in the hatch area -- making a sound as if the hatch is moving independent of the body.
Sound like the hatch is loose -- but it's not. If I grab hold of the wing and try and move the hatch ---- it's tight and I get no sound.
I had a friend drive my car while I was in the rear hatch area trying to find a bad rattle. I discovered that it is inside a large plastic panel just where the rear window wiper motor would be. I'm sure if I could safely remove this large panel, I could find out what the rattle is and quiet it.
How to remove this panel? Are there some hidden bolts or screws? I don't want to force-pry it off if that is not the proper way to remove it. I'd sure rather do this myself than go thru the dealer rigmarole.
I've had my 2010 for about 17months and 16k miles. Early on, I remember that I was able to easily close the rear hatch by just lightly yanking down on the handle, and gravity would do its thing. However, these days, I need to pull down much harder to get it to close in one try. Should I try to lube the hatch shocks and hinge? Or do I need to clean them first somehow?
View 1 RepliesI just drove my new 2011 IV with sunroof/sloar option and leather home yesterday and I noticed a sporadic low pitch rattle coming from the rear inside area. I will remove everything from the back today and see if it goes away.
View 8 RepliesHaving problems with the vertical rear hatch window shattering? Mine is completely shattered, only the tint is holding it together. I can't see a single impact point (and don't think I backed into anything). It looks like a network evenly distributed over the entire rear window. But maybe this is the way safety glass breaks when it is hit at one point???
View 4 RepliesI bought a 2012 prius 4 with 42k miles recently. The car is just too loud. I've determined the "noise" to be the rear hatch bouncing when I drive over small bumps in the road. The bounce creates an air pressure change that is just too unacceptable. I've milled the hatch lock mechanism's holes into slots to I can close the hatch tighter. This made a little improvement. My next step will be to add some gasket material on the hatch itself so it closes tighter. My slots allow the hatch to bottom out so I had to back off the adjustment a bit.
View 5 RepliesThe rear spoiler on my 2005 has always had a bit of "flex" to it and I've always been careful not to use it to open or close the hatch. Unfortunately, I can't be sure that others not do that as it really is the place someone would think to grab to close the hatch.
Anyway, the other day I noticed that the spoiler had picked up a nasty rattle whenever the hatch was closed. Looking from the outside in I saw that there appeared to be two plastic fasteners (one on each end) that held the spoiler in place. If I pressed down on one side the other side popped up and vice versa. I was able to get the spoiler back to where it originally was (loose but no real rattle).
The car has never been in an accident and the spoiler doesn't appear to be bent in anyway...it just seems as if the fasteners aren't holding it down as tightly as they should. Is this the norm? Should I replace the fasteners and any instructions on how to do it?
On occasion I have to haul something (bicycle) that wont let me close hatch. Can I turn off buzzer. I have an hour transport coming up.
View 2 RepliesTook the car to the dealer, said "just turn off the beeps, all of them." The rep. said come back in an hour. Most of the beeps are off now, but I have an odd pair of problems.
1.) The rear hatch no longer beeps when open, but it also has no longer has the SKS function.
2.) The front seat belts no longer beep, but the front dome light no longer has an on-when-door-is-open function.
3) I'm waiting to see what bizarre side effects come from the single reverse beep.
The rep. says these are side effects from killing the beeps, that the nuisance beeps are tied to these two functions and that the only way to restore them is to bring back the beeps. He claims that the front beeps & dome light are triggered by a sensor inside the door that is part of the door latch, that when this sensor is disabled all its functions stop. I think he said it's the same problem with the rear hatch and its SKS.