Prius (Gen 3) :: Powering Off While ICE Is Still Running
Oct 29, 2012
I am not sure if this is a problem just because I have a One trim, but sometimes if I am on a short trip and my hybrid battery has gone down to 1/4 level, the ICE will kick in to charge it and will remain on even after I have put the car in park and I have ended up powering off the car while this is still going on. Any thing that will cause damage to the car? I am hoping not considering normal ICE cars get shut off all the time while the ICE is running, but my Prius ends up powering down a little more noisily than normal, so I am a tad bit worried.
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It was raining where I live. (We may have a little snow later). So I turned on the rear wiper to the continuous setting.
When I got to work, and rotated the wiper stalk to turn off the rear wiper, nothing happened. So the wiper could be stopped only by powering down the car.
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109,000 miles into my 2009 Prius with no problems, I'm having an annoying issue with the alarm. Sometimes - about half the time, without any discernible reason - when I power the car on, it gives three rapid, very short honks. I can't relate it doing this to anything - doors can be open or closed, it can have sat for a week or have just been turned off, ect. I have the KARR factory alarm thing installed, but it seems to function normally.
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This is something I have noticed the last 3 months. I have had the car 2 years. When I first start it and it is completely cold, it will only run like EV mode (HV battery powering the car) even though the gas engine is merrily running and it is not in EV. We live part way down a small hill, so now I often discharge the HV battery to a point low enough to trigger the recharge function which keeps the gas engine running forever. It does this morning or afternoon, if it has been sitting a few hours and is completely cooled off. It did it in Sept. at 65F and it does it now at 35F.
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Is it very bad to Power off before putting the car into Park? It seems to go into Park upon hitting the Power button automatically.
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So I've found a lot of guides around here on how to install an amp/sub in my gti (golf) but I'm having some trouble understanding how to run the power from the battery to the amp without the amp constantly being turned on and draining my battery.
Currently, i have everything but the power itself setup and ready to go, i have my 4 gauge power cable running from the engine bay through the firewall and to the back of my car where the amp will be. The amp came with a fuse to put near the battery, but I think I would need some sort of on/off switch to actually kill the power to the amp. I read that this is called a relay switch or something, but exactly how to install this into my current setup.
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my 2002 Chevy Tracker has run faithfully for the last 5-6 years. a few things have come up recently that have needed to be replaced, but nothing huge. after my AC compressor was replaced, my car started powering off in the middle of driving (not while revving engine standing still). mostly on cold starts, but now more frequently. mechanic swears it has nothing to do with AC compressor.
But he is checking drive train today. He has changed the tranny fluid, fuel filter, cleaned the gas tank, cleaned the throttle body (IAC motor), cleaned the mass airflow filter sensor, checked the battery voltage in case of an alternator problem. he has scanned the vehicle while driving and sitting still several times and no codes come up.
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I have a 2001 Saturn L200. My A/C doesn't work. My dad is a retired old school mechanic and can't figure it out. The compressor turns on, on occasion, we think it's not getting power because we connected the compressor directly to the battery and it turns on fine. Think it's some type of electrical issue. Also hear a clicking sound inside the cabin when I depress the brakes when my gear shift lights are off. Sometimes they work and doors lock automatically when I put it in drive, but other times the lights don't work and I get that clicking and my doors don't lock. I believe the issue is electrical and tied together with a/c issues, but have no idea where to look.
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I have noticed that my stereo/NAV system reboots every once in a while shortly after powering on. The system freezes and then reboots on its own. Then it doesn't repeat for that session.
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I have a 2002 trailblazer with the V6 engine. while driving it will say on the message center POWERING DOWN. the engine shuts off and after coasting to a stop its like the battery is dead. It wont shift into park and the key cant be removed from the key switch. thinking that it was a battery or alternator problem I had both replaced. And it done the same thing the last time it was driven. Had it towed home, connected a battery charger to it to boost it and it allowed me to cut the ignition to the off position and remove the key. What could be wrong with it?
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1994 Buick Century 3.1
Fuel pump relay is not powering the fuel pump. I was able at one point to jump the orange wire to the gray wire but it will not even do that now. I know the fuel pump works because I can jump from the battery to the gray wire and it will turn on.
I used a multimeter and tested the volts from the orange wire on the relay to the neg post on the battery and it is only reading about 1.3 volts. Is this normal?
Checked the fuel pump 15a fuse and it is ok. I am getting spark. Could it be the crank sensor? How can I test that? (It is above the start I believe). Could it be the ignition control module? How to test? Location? What else can I test with the multimeter and post back with the results to further diagnose?
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I have a 2002 Accent 1.6 with 187000 km on it. I started noticing over the last month that when I shift into second gear the car seems to stop powering the wheels temporarily. Once the RPM's pick up (around 2200) the problem goes away. This seems to only happen when I originally shift into second and the RPM's are lower. If I accelerate slowly then the lag usually won't happen, but if I push down more on the gas then you can really notice the lag.
The spark plugs only have 15000 km on them, air filter is new, just replaced the fuel filter, oil was just changed (synthetic) as well as the filter, and I just recently cleaned out the throttle body. I have also seemed to notice a loss of overall power since at highway speeds since this problem started. The engine doesn't lag when I'm in 4th or 5th gear on the highway, but it seems to have less power when I'm accelerating on the highway.
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We have an 1999 f-450 super duty with a cube van box that we use for pickup. About a month ago the radio and lights started to stay on, various other electronics did the same.
we found mostly it points to the gem module...was unable to obtain a new one so we found a use one. For the time being we started disconnecting the battery ( would kill both overnight ) and magically....everything was working again so we didn't bother installed the used GEM.
Now....its given Chirstine a run for her money and auditioning for a maximum overdrive reboot The starter started to turn. Took the keys outa the ignition but a few moments later it started again. Got to the point the starter wouldn't stop and we were running around the shop looking for tools to disconnect the batteries.
Its not starting the engine so the ignition should be ok, its just powering the starter motor. checked the relay and it seems to be working fine. We tried to install the GEM we bought however, it seems its not the right part and its too late to return it now so, we are trying to find a new one ( not used ) from somewhere. so the gem is bad as the radio, blower motor etc comes on and off at will but here's the kicker.... with the GEM removed...the starter is still powering itself....
Thought maybe the fuse box got moisture or something, put a heater on it to dry it out. Pulled the starter fuse, turned off...pulled radio fuse samething
so i think the fuse box is ok.
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Is it advisable to shut down the car while the ICE still running?
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Is it advisable to shut down the car while the ICE still running?
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What is your general mpg loss in very hot weather with air running? Any tips re air conditioning use?
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Lately my smart key start acting wearied. while car is running i get sign of key is not detected, And today i was not even able to open 2010 Gen 3 with smart key and car wont start. After 15 min it start detecting and car got started. Key battery is new but i just recently added another smart key with prius smart key. I am wondering its happening because interference of another key?
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I'm waiting for the 4300 HID kit to be delivered and just remember I've read somewhere that DRL is using low beam lamp at lower power: is HID running with low power possible or I can't use DRL anymore?
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I have recently noticed that if I quickly turn the steering on my Prius from lock to lock (such as a quick and tight 3 point turn in the road) the steering feels like it's running out of power on and off.
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2nd gen Prius started to act strange after 6 years.
The problem I noticed is that the ICE is running too much, for example even when I am stopped after 30-40 minutes of continuous drive (no traffic jam), hot weather (about 27 C degrees, 80 F), battery showing 7 lines.
Even when I try to enter EV mode I am not allowed.
See some pictures below. All 3 made when stopped. In the past the ICE was off in these conditions.
Maybe the ventilation of hybrid system is bad ? I see no other explanations.
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I have a 2011 prius. Lately after work when i get back in the prius the battery will be half what it was when i parked it in the morning. Is my battery dying already. im at 36,000 miles
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